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Artic Silver, or something else....??

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Yep, and only 2° between Kryonaut and MX4. And for the cost of a tiny tube of Kryonaut, you can get a literal lifetime supply of MX4.

If you are a hardware tester then ya getting the cheaper stuff and use it forever. For regular folks who don't apply thermal paste every week getting premium stuff is well worth it.
 

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If you are a hardware tester then ya getting the cheaper stuff and use it forever. For regular folks who don't apply thermal paste every week getting premium stuff is well worth it.

No, it's really not. 2°C is not worth a dime extra.
 

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That's 3° difference from worst to best. As noted above, if you "need" those 3° to prevent thermal stability issues, you have other problems besides your choice of TIM you need to deal with first.

The only real reason those 3° sould matter is for bragging rights only.
Gotta admit I agree with you there. 3c won't realistically help you. Personally I believe if you're in the market for paste and the price doesn't bother you, it won't hurt to go for the best, but it's not going to help you overclock any more or solve any heat issues that another paste couldn't.
 
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Yep, and only 2° between Kryonaut and MX4. And for the cost of a tiny tube of Kryonaut, you can get a literal lifetime supply of MX4.

Ceramique is probrably the cheapest of the bunch by volume, I have 4 big tubes of it and all that was less than you'd think.
It's good for when doing as I do, testing and running different chips all the time plus it does work well for setups you'd normally leave alone. I've used NT-H1 for sub-zero before and it did the job, it's clearly useable for LN2 use if you're doing that.

In fact I'd suggest a paste like NT-H1 or Kryonaut for LN2 use, for DICE Ceramique does well enough I use it for that but it's not suitable for LN2 mainly due to problems with TIM cracking once it gets so cold.

All TIMs have the potential for that problem, Gelid GC, NT-H1 or Kryonaut would be what I'd run for LN2 use - Can't say if TX4 would work but it's certainly possible.
 

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Ceramique is probrably the cheapest of the bunch by volume, I have 4 big tubes of it and all that was less than you'd think.

I've got a huge tube of AS Alumina at work, it was like $5. It still performs extremely well, and is easily enough for re-pasting customer computers(still better than the stock TIM:laugh:).
 
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The current price of what I have as of this post is $6.90 from the egg for a 25 gram tube (Ceramique).
All I can say is it's cheap and a tube even with my use lasts for awhile - I won't have to buy any for a year or more at least if I use it correctly.
 
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Cheap out on TIM? Why? Pretty much the cheapest "part" you can buy for your build. Does it really need to be cheaper, and/or less effective, for some stupid/penny-pinching reason? But go ahead and buy the cheap stuff that doesn't work as good. Then buy yourself a cheeseburger with the money you saved. :wtf:
 
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Cheap out on TIM? Why? Pretty much the cheapest "part" you can buy for your build. Does it really need to be cheaper, and/or less effective, for some stupid/penny-pinching reason? But go ahead and buy the cheap stuff that doesn't work as good. Then buy yourself a cheeseburger with the money you saved. :wtf:


Exactly. It is not like you are applying and removing thermal paste every day. I just don't get why people cheap out on such things. Sure you can even put tooth paste on there, cost nothing.
 
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Thermal paste reviews are usually not quite a good guide without explaining the methodology it is test for. The production batch of a thermal paste also would affect the result if you compared with different sites.

I remember a few years back the best thermal paste review I found was from the site skineelabs, it is no longer around now. It was a great site, if I am not wrong each thermal paste test was done 5 times at least. That means after a long test, it would be dismantled and a new paste would be remounted. The results would be averaged out. Their tested on an overclock i7 980x if i recalled right. I don't know how much patience it take to do a full that much.

I also learned that the "best" thermal paste depended on how good a contact your cpu have with your heatsink. Heatsink or cpu can be concave or convex and depending on the situation resulting in poor contact where both surfaces are not touching each other well. Skinnee also tested each thermal paste with "poor contact", "good contact" and "excellent contact". For poor contact use very thick thermal paste like shinetsu worked very well, their pretty much like a thermal pad in a tube. Good contact on Shinetsu paste result in better temperature though the change is not as major as it is design well for contact errors.

Artic Silver 5 on the other hand performed poorly at poor contact and temperature improvement took a big jump upon going to good contact and excellent. Even for then Artic silver 5 was already outclassed by better thermal paste then like Shinetsu and then MX2 before MX4. The best then was the Prolimatech PK1 test by Skinnee which is almost as forgiving for poor contact like shinetsu and perform better than it in good contact.

I am personally using the NT-H1 as that is what my cooler comes with. I would go with the MX4 or PK3 if I run out on my noctua paste.
 
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If you are a hardware tester then ya getting the cheaper stuff and use it forever. For regular folks who don't apply thermal paste every week getting premium stuff is well worth it.
More like the other way around.

It is okay if your TIM dries out once it has been applied. The solids that remain behind are still occupying the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces, preventing insulating air from getting in. It is important to note the ONLY reason TIM comes in a liquid format is so it can be squeezed out of the tube and spread evenly over the processor die. Once properly applied, it is okay if the liquid materials dry out.

Once you open the tube, the contents of that tube can start to dry out. You might then risk squeezing little bits of solid TIM on your processor die, preventing a smooth distribution across the TIM that would be bad.

So IMO, if you test hardware, or do repairs or builds for a living, buying the TIM in quantities that are likely to be consumed before drying out makes sense. Buying a tube of the premium TIM that, once opened, may sit on a shelf for a couple years does not make sense.

Now if planning to mount a cooler then pull it off a 1/2 hour later, sure! No need to waste the expensive TIM. But unless you are doing extreme overclocking, the one time or infrequent user does not need the expensive stuff either.
The production batch of a thermal paste also would affect the result if you compared with different sites.
If the quality of TIM varied that much from batch to batch, then that suggests very poor quality control - NOT typical of any major brand.

As for concave or convex, not really buying that these days. Manufacturing techniques today are such that those type curvature defects don't happen. This is why "lapping" is no longer, or at least rarely ever done by computer enthusiasts anymore. The heatsink and CPU mating surfaces already are flat enough to ensure maximum "metal to metal" contact which provides the most efficient transfer of heat.

Instead, TIM is needed to fill those microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces and no more. Any excess TIM is actually in the way and counterproductive to that most efficient transfer of heat - regardless how good the TIM is.
 

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I seem to be ranging from 34°C to 54°C

I suppose I figure the idle should definitely be lower....

Actually, in my experience idle temps only generally drop of the previous application was really bad or it was just time in general. Again from my experience the gain in thermal pastes is seen at load temps.
 
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Actually, in my experience idle temps only generally drop of the previous application was really bad or it was just time in general.
In my experience, when users see any significant drop in idle temperatures after replacing TIM, the previous application was done improperly as you noted, or while in the process of replacing the TIM, the user also cleaned the heatsink and case interior of heat trapping dust.

And again, TIM does not need to be replaced just because X amount of time has passed. NOT ONE TIM maker, CPU maker, GPU maker, motherboard or computer maker, or cooler maker recommends regular TIM replacement just because X amount of time passed. NOT ONE!
 

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And again, TIM does not need to be replaced just because X amount of time has passed. NOT ONE TIM maker, CPU maker, GPU maker, motherboard or computer maker, or cooler maker recommends regular TIM replacement just because X amount of time passed. NOT ONE!

That is certain, I guess I should clarify my definitions of "bad" and "overtime" In reality and I am assuming here that you quantify any thermal wear over time to be a bad application, and you would be right. I however take that same stance and just split it between two families. Bad applications (heat degradation over time via drying) and terrible applications (IE thermal application within the span of a year that drives a user to replace there TIM) both of which I believe are conditions of "bad applications" (again im assuming this is what you quantify a bad application as being (heat degradation over time due to drying)) I just take that and split it into two groups.
 
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In reality and I am assuming here that you quantify any thermal wear over time to be a bad application,
Ummm, no I don't. I don't accept there is such a thing as "thermal wear" that, to any significant point, affects cooling. If there was a bad application, it would be apparent at the first power up.
(heat degradation over time via drying)
:( It would seem you did not read my comments above about drying. It does not matter if your TIM dries out once properly applied. The solids (which are the heat transferring components of TIM) left behind are still there doing their job. See my post #35 above. See also: The Heatsink Guide and note where it says (my bold added),
Thermal compound normally does not get hard, it will stay sticky for years. But depending on the solvents used in the making of the compound, it may dry over the years. This is not a reason to worry; it will still do its job when dry, and there is no reason to replace dried thermal compound.

You keep trying to throw time into the equation when it does not apply! Again, show one TIM, motherboard, computer, processor, or cooler maker who says time is a factor! NOT ONE does.

It is true that over time, the efficiency of some TIMs (depending on formula) may degrade a few degrees. But again if a few degrees puts the processor temps over the threshold causing stability issues, you have greater issues to deal with - likely case cooling. Because the temps never should have been that close to the threshold in the first place.

It is important to note that it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case. And of course, it is the computer designer and user who are responsible for setting up proper case cooling.

The CPU cooler need only toss up the CPU's heat into that air flow. Of course, if the ambient (room) temp is excessive, no amount of air flow from fans, or heat transfer through heat sinks will help. But hopefully users are not using their computers in 100°F environments.

Ironically, I have found one of the most common causes for the cured bond between the CPU and heatsink to break is users over-twisting the heatsink to see if the cured bond is broken! :kookoo:

Rough handling during transport is another cause - especially with tall and heavy, vertically oriented coolers that "hang" off the motherboards in tower cases.
 

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Ummm, no I don't. I don't accept there is such a thing as "thermal wear" that, to any significant point, affects cooling. If there was a bad application, it would be apparent at the first power up.
:( It would seem you did not read my comments above about drying. It does not matter if your TIM dries out once properly applied. The solids (which are the heat transferring components of TIM) left behind are still there doing their job. See my post #35 above. See also: The Heatsink Guide and note where it says (my bold added),

You keep trying to throw time into the equation when it does not apply! Again, show one TIM, motherboard, computer, processor, or cooler maker who says time is a factor! NOT ONE does.

It is true that over time, the efficiency of some TIMs (depending on formula) may degrade a few degrees. But again if a few degrees puts the processor temps over the threshold causing stability issues, you have greater issues to deal with - likely case cooling. Because the temps never should have been that close to the threshold in the first place.

It is important to note that it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case. And of course, it is the computer designer and user who are responsible for setting up proper case cooling.

The CPU cooler need only toss up the CPU's heat into that air flow. Of course, if the ambient (room) temp is excessive, no amount of air flow from fans, or heat transfer through heat sinks will help. But hopefully users are not using their computers in 100°F environments.

Ironically, I have found one of the most common causes for the cured bond between the CPU and heatsink to break is users over-twisting the heatsink to see if the cured bond is broken! :kookoo:

Rough handling during transport is another cause - especially with tall and heavy, vertically oriented coolers that "hang" off the motherboards in tower cases.

ah yup your right we certainly dont agree on this subject at all.
 
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Then please, show us show one TIM, motherboard, computer, processor, or cooler maker who says TIM needs to be replaced just because X amount of time has elapsed. I've been a certified electronics technician since 1971. I have never seen any tech manual, white paper, TIM maker data sheet, or component maker who requires it. I maintained "mission critical" air traffic control radio and navigational aides systems for the US military for many years and never saw any TIM that "went bad", even in systems over 10 years old. I've been maintaining PCs since before the IBM PC came out never saw where any maker required it.

So please, show us one - just one!
 
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Then please, show us show one TIM, motherboard, computer, processor, or cooler maker who says TIM needs to be replaced just because X amount of time has elapsed. I've been a certified electronics technician since 1971. I have never seen any tech manual, white paper, TIM maker data sheet, or component maker who requires it. I maintained "mission critical" air traffic control radio and navigational aides systems for the US military for many years and never saw any TIM that "went bad", even in systems over 10 years old. I've been maintaining PCs since before the IBM PC came out never saw where any maker required it.

So please, show us one - just one!


Yep. Thermal paste does NOT need to be constantly re-applied. Which is why I go with the premium stuff. Apply once and good for a long time.

Also OP should look at these themal pads. Pretty awesome.
 

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Then please, show us show one TIM, motherboard, computer, processor, or cooler maker who says TIM needs to be replaced just because X amount of time has elapsed. I've been a certified electronics technician since 1971. I have never seen any tech manual, white paper, TIM maker data sheet, or component maker who requires it. I maintained "mission critical" air traffic control radio and navigational aides systems for the US military for many years and never saw any TIM that "went bad", even in systems over 10 years old. I've been maintaining PCs since before the IBM PC came out never saw where any maker required it.

So please, show us one - just one!

None of those qualifications mean jack shit and expertise from that period in time means nothing to modern day computing. I am not being accusatory, I just don't believe you. And no you personally wont be able to convince me. Sorry, but thermal paste is supposed to be viscous by nature if it dries out (for whatever reason bad application, by nature etc) I would need someone qualified to tell me that doesn't affect it. You don't hold those credentials. I never once even said you were wrong, you just attacked my opinion (which I clearly defined as such), I don't have the burden of truth here. and you don't hold the credentials to tell me otherwise. We don't need to agree sorry.
 
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Those pads are interesting. Not sure I would go with the reusable part though - mainly because it might get contaminated with dirt and dust if exposed. I guess they can be cleaned.

And no you personally wont be able to convince me.
Then I ask one more time, show us one TIM, motherboard, computer, processor, or cooler maker who says TIM needs to be replaced just because X amount of time has elapsed. The fact you can't should tell even you something. And note I did provide a link so you would not have to believe me.

For the record, the way an electron or heat flows through a conductor work the same way it did 50 years ago. Modern day electronics is no different. If anything, TIM has improved.

I never once even said you were wrong
No, just that you don't believe me. Not sure there is a distinction.

As far as my credential, I disagree. And you can follow the link in my sig to see if I might know a little bit about how electronics and its proper cooling works.

But again - DON'T BELIEVE ME! Believe the makers!

Why wouldn't AS or MX or whoever say their TIM needs regular replacing if it needed it? They would not want their users to claim it failed on them. And it would mean more sales.
 
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Those pads are totally reusable. But they're shit because they're too thick. So despite having very high thermal conductivity properties, they aren't any more effective than low/mid grade pastes.

On the lapping thing. It's still quite common. And for good reason. The IHS on a CPU comes from the factory with a slight concavity, with high points at the 4 corners. Every one I've ever seen. Leading me to a strong conclusion that it's an intended design feature. I imagine it helps eliminate TIM pump out. And moves more of the clamping load to the 4 corners, likely for improved stability and clamping load retention. Anyway, IF lapping the IHS is becoming less common these days, it's only because you can buy custom solid copper IHSs for many modern CPUs these days. That are relatively cheap, and milled perfectly flat and smooth. So just buying one of those to use instead is far more convenient. I wish they were available the last time I lapped an IHS. I would definitely have sprung for one, instead of going through the hassle of lapping the one I had.

https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/products/copper-ihs-for-lga-1150
https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/products/copper-ihs-for-lga-1150-1151

Oh, and even though I agree with you, but just to play Devil's Advocate, here's your one.
The DimasTech® Thermal Grease HTX-EE the latest high-level for gamers, modders and Enthusiast, is able to meet the needs of a wide range of applications, intended for the hobbyist to' the Extreme Overclocker who uses non-conventional cooling like as a phase change or LN2 / Dry ice, a field whichDimasTech has been dedicated to. The DimasTech® Thermal Grease HTX-EE is not electrically conductive and has a long life, being able performance for 2 years without any maintenance.
http://www.dimastechusa.com/dimastech-thermal-grease-htx-ee-heat-transfer-extreme-enthusiast-edition
 
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I have to say I've ran into the dried out TIM thing before and yes, it was the cause in at least a few cases of a machine running hotter than it should have.
Note with these machines it was the cheaper, older factory style TIM used in things like a Dell or HP.

This is an example I ran into sometime ago.
After blowing out the fans and making sure they were working in the first place tests showed the system running very warm to hot and this was observed with the readings obtanied in the BIOS of the board - Not claiming these readings as being 100% accurate but instead, using it as a reference to determine the amount of temp change if any. From my initial observation blowing dust bunnies out the cooling fan only changed it by about 7 - 10C or so from the original/baseline reading I saw but there was a change.

After removing the cooler and seeing what was there I cleaned it up and applied fresh TIM only to the cooler and CPU, the TIM itself being a stock type of stuff, nothing fancy.
After reassembly I started the machine and noted a further drop of temps, by about an addtional 12 - 16C from what I originally saw before any cleaning of the fan(s) was done.
Maybe not a monster difference but it was there.

Also note the age of the TIM used vs what's available today, clearly things are better than from when that stuff was applied.
I will say in addition not every TIM I"ve ever seen HAS to still be in a fluidic/paste-like state to work, an example I've seen in the past is TX2.... It will eventually dry out to a grey, chalky/plastic like substance yet it still works fine.
The liquid part of many TIM's I've seen is for making the stuff apply correctly across a given surface(s), not for helping with the actual act of passing heat along.

So... There is credence to BOTH sides of the arguement but it's really based on what TIM you are using, when it was actually made (Per exact ingredient formula used at the time of manufacture ) and the like.
 
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It is okay if your TIM dries out once it has been applied. The solids that remain behind are still occupying the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces, preventing insulating air from getting in. It is important to note the ONLY reason TIM comes in a liquid format is so it can be squeezed out of the tube and spread evenly over the processor die. Once properly applied, it is okay if the liquid materials dry out.

I have no idea if drying out changes thermal resistance of the paste or not, I am not a chemist and neither are you (afaik). So I wont comment on it since I don't know.

What I will say is I wouldn't buy a TIM that dries out a lot. Move your PC one time and the possibility of the heatsink to move and the TIM to crack leaving gaps is high not to mention if you just work on your PC and hit you HS/F by mistake and the same can happen. If a TIM does dry out a lot then imo it's a design flaw and can introduce issues that a slimy ;) TIM just wouldn't have.
 

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If you really need to spend cash Prolimatech PK-3 is better than mx-4 and it doesn't cost over the top either

Maybe you shop some were else but for me Prolimatech PK-3 cost around $7 for 1.5g were as MX-4 costs about $7 for 4g
 
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Maybe you shop some were else but for me Prolimatech PK-3 cost around $7 for 1.5g were as MX-4 costs about $7 for 4g

Yeah this is true, where you live matters. Here in Canada Prolimatech's stuff is difficult to get. On Newegg Canada a 5G tube of PK1 is $36 with $15 shipping. A 20G tube of MX-4 is (regular price, it's on sale $5 off atm) $25 with $6 shipping. So yeah where I live there's no point in getting the PK1 stuff..
 
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Ever since I ran out of Gelid GC Extreme last year, I've been using this gargantuan syringe of TG Kryonaut. Both are a good viscosity, easy to apply, spread well, and are easy to clean off. Not really expensive either. The huge syringe of Kryonaut cost a bit, but that's 'cause it's huge. The only drawback is that I don't need the "spreader" applicator that comes with the Kryonaut, which leaves me squeezing paste out of the rather large screw mount for the applicator. Perfect for rice grain size applications, though!
 
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