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automotive coolant for PC watercooling that mixes copper, aluminum, nickel, brass and silicone tubing

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I've used red Zerex (for a toyota truck) before and had no issues, the tubing I used wasn't clear but black and somewhat hard to bend
I searched for "zerex" on local automotive e-shops (including amazon.de) and didn't find any such coolant. Under name "zerex" I found D vitamine capsules :laugh:. I'm not sure if zerex is even available on EU market.

For all: if you want to share your experience with automotive coolant, please include information about metals in your loop (copper, aluminum, etc.)
 
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and now we are back to my initial question which I wanted to answer by this thread: which one? VW group G11 or G12 or G12+ or G12++ or G13? Or GM Dex-Cool? Or coolant from Mercedes or from other automotive brands?
If you search on internet discussion about automotive coolants it's always just about which coolant is recommended for which car. That doesn't help me at all. I wasn't able to find exact chemical composition of those standardized coolants ie. G11, G12, G12+, G12++, G13 etc.

Why not try google to find out what the tubes are made of the cars using them coolant types use? Least you will know what tubes you ar safe using in your PC with whatever coolant types don't attack/damage the tube types. You might need to change your tubes though.
 
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Why not try google to find out what the tubes are made of the cars using them coolant types use? Least you will know what tubes you ar safe using in your PC with whatever coolant types don't attack/damage the tube types. You might need to change your tubes though.
If I imagine how many different cars there are, that sounds even more difficult than finding chemical composition of those standardized car coolants. I'm not an expert on cars and I doubt that an average local mechanic will know what those tubes are made of.
 
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The other problem with anti-freeze is that it increases viscosity along with reduced heat capacity.
 

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Al, aluminum. Ai, artificial intelligence.
thatr happens when people are too effin lazy to spell words out.

Yeah true story i forgott that Amis have no brain, thats the reason that they need foot, inch and gallones :laugh:
They even not ready to use the metric system.
well on the plus side, we dont use an outhouse to bath in...
 
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As I already explained here, I don't want to use any coolant from PC watercooling companies because of high price and weak anti-corrosive properties.
you have no clue what you are talking about
just stop you come here asking for advice and then turn around arguing with the people that are explaining
to you why your setup is wrong and why its a bad plan but you keep on bullheading on though

here are the basic do's and don'ts
Don't mix metals on fittings or blocks or other components (unless its plated)
Don't use silicon hoses they are not rated for the application (they don't have the wall strength to prevent leaks and provide a good seal)

Do Use plain distilled water with a biocide, change the water every 3 months
OR
Do Use a Quality Premade coolant (No fancy dyes or glitter please thats just as bad as putting fking glycol in your loop)

Don't use automotive components ANYWARE in the you loop
Automotive antifreeze as a much lower thermal transfer ability then plain water we use it in cars for the boil/freeze protection in critical applications e.g racecars we run strait water for a reason

and for the record 2eht is nearly always denoted in the coolant packaging
if you try and hack something together you are asking for leaks and dead components and in this market that is 5x the cost of just using the right stuff for the right job
 

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Which coolant do you use? Do you have mix of metals in your loop? If yes, which metals exactly? Now I'm really interested.

Unsure if I have mixed metals. Pretty sure most is copper especially the blocks. The rads I think are copper too but I'm unsure about them but like I say I've never had any Issues.

These are some of the photos I've found over the years. I've had many dating back to 2003/4 but haven't taken pictures of. Pentium 4/D/ Core 2/Quads all using car coolant.

i7 920 xfire 6950 flashed 6970 : ) car coolant. Soft tube.

i7 920.jpg


i7 990x with 7950 Xfire soft tube.

7950 O.jpg


7950 Orange.jpg


i7 5960x with GTX 980 : ) Hard Tube acrylic i think..

1070 SLI.jpg


7600K GTX 1070 SLI Hard Tube

resized 1600 x 1200.jpg


Red and Blue Car Coolant : ) Got sick of using the green stuff : )

IMG_7174.jpg


Coolant I generally use:

IMG_7175.jpg

IMG_7176.jpg


I have been using this stuff since socket 478 with great results.

Its all started years ago (early 2000's) when my loop starting rusting with distilled water with an additive to prevent rust. It started rusting the parts out..

I said to my mates "what about car coolant"? We tried it and never looked back.

Great temps with ZERO rust issues.

Happy New Year : )
 
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If I imagine how many different cars there are, that sounds even more difficult than finding chemical composition of those standardized car coolants. I'm not an expert on cars and I doubt that an average local mechanic will know what those tubes are made of.
That's why you buy generic clear hose from an Auto Parts store as you can be fairly certain it is resistant to oils etc.
 
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If I imagine how many different cars there are, that sounds even more difficult than finding chemical composition of those standardized car coolants. I'm not an expert on cars and I doubt that an average local mechanic will know what those tubes are made of.
You do realize that most if not all cars use the same hose type for a given application. And they are supplied by about 3 different manufacturers.
 
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Hi. I need an advice which automotive coolant is good for PC water cooling loop that consists of aluminum, copper, nickel, brass, silicone tubing, acetal and plastic pump. Getting rid of aluminum is not an option for me. I don't want to use coolants that are made by PC watercooling companies because of high price and weak anti-corrosive properties (and I need 3 liters (0.66 gallons) of coolant for my loop). I'm in Europe, so it has to be something that's available on EU market. For example VW group has several coolant standards: G11, G12, G12+, G12++, G13, Mercedes has their own standard and so on. So I don't know which should i choose. For example on wikipedia is written that sodium or potassium 2-ethylhexanoate act as plasticizer for silicone rubber so such coolants are not an option.

Thanks!
Hi, I have been using Honda 2 blue 50/50 coolant for the last 8 years in two different computers and the water blocks as well as the radiators look as new as the day I assembled. I am using primo chill clear vinyl tubing and of course I have two separate loops in each computer and I am also using Bykski 60mm cylindrical 280mm long and dual swiftech water pumps and I have had absolutely no issues of any kind or any leaks. I cant speak for other coolants but I know in over 10 years 24/7 operation, Honda blue is perfect and it also does not break down like the so called made for pc coolant crap does. My coolant is as clear blue as the day I built the systems.

Bykski 60mm Cylindrical Reservoir​

 

Outback Bronze

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Hi, I have been using Honda 2 blue 50/50 coolant for the last 8 years in two different computers and the water blocks as well as the radiators look as new as the day I assembled. I am using primo chill clear vinyl tubing and of course I have two separate loops in each computer and I am also using Bykski 60mm cylindrical 280mm long and dual swiftech water pumps and I have had absolutely no issues of any kind or any leaks. I cant speak for other coolants but I know in over 10 years 24/7 operation, Honda blue is perfect and it also does not break down like the so called made for pc coolant crap does. My coolant is as clear blue as the day I built the systems.

Bykski 60mm Cylindrical Reservoir​


Its funny you know, when I told people years ago I'm using car coolant for my loops people used to criticize me..
 
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Thank you guys.
@onemanhitsquad: I looked into that however I didn't find anything like that from local dealers. Brand Hy-per lube is not available on EU market.
@Andy Shiekh same story, those brands are not available here.
@crispysilicon unfortunately, i didn't find anything like that
@Outback Bronze Nulon products are not available here, however based on the sticker it's based on ethylene glycol. It looks similar to G11 coolant.
Most locally available additives for car cooling systems are either standard antifreeze or additives to clean the cooling system from inside or additives to clog leaks on old rads.

I found a great article comparing VW group standardized coolants and articles detailing G11, G12 (+), G12++ and G13. Based on that G12 (+ or ++) seems like the best choice for my loop (mix of copper and aluminum). G12 is widely available here and it's cheap, down to 2,5 euro per liter. What do you guys think about this?
 
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The other problem with anti-freeze is that it increases viscosity along with reduced heat capacity.
At a 10% solution, the problem is nonexistent.
 
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Thank you guys.
@onemanhitsquad: I looked into that however I didn't find anything like that from local dealers. Brand Hy-per lube is not available on EU market.
@Andy Shiekh same story, those brands are not available here.
@crispysilicon unfortunately, i didn't find anything like that
@Outback Bronze Nulon products are not available here, however based on the sticker it's based on ethylene glycol. It looks similar to G11 coolant.
Most locally available additives for car cooling systems are either standard antifreeze or additives to clean the cooling system from inside or additives to clog leaks on old rads.

I found a great article comparing VW group standardized coolants and articles detailing G11, G12 (+), G12++ and G13. Based on that G12 (+ or ++) seems like the best choice for my loop (mix of copper and aluminum). G12 is widely available here and it's cheap, down to 2,5 euro per liter. What do you guys think about this?

I think you are overthinking it. ;)
THIS^

@pokzene_maslo get whatever widely available anti freeze you find on an auto parts stores' shelves - which will vary (name brand) depending on the region/country. expensive luxury/sports cars are an outlier, most all cars on the road have a copper rad w/aluminum in pump/engine (unless your living at the race track). most any even store brand will work just fine for the galvanic corrosion for Cu/Ai specifically.

so i'm not surprised the best looking option you see is the most available. btw, it's not a bad idea to use a drop of dish soap to help w/surface tension - thank you jpmboi (OCN/HWBOT).
 
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If cars have been using Prestone anti-freeze with aluminum water pumps with no corrosive damage, I think it fairly safe to use. After all, that's one of anti-freezes' attributes. Anti-corrosion. You may want to even think of using Permatex sealer as an option to using on your seals. One thought to consider is the pressure that develops in a automobile cooling system is far greater than a Ai. So yeah, try everything. I'm not a chemist. I was a car mechanic.
 

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If cars have been using Prestone anti-freeze with aluminum water pumps with no corrosive damage, I think it fairly safe to use. After all, that's one of anti-freezes' attributes. Anti-corrosion. You may want to even think of using Permatex sealer as an option to using on your seals. One thought to consider is the pressure that develops in a automobile cooling system is far greater than a Ai. So yeah, try everything. I'm not a chemist. I was a car mechanic.

Yep the pumps I use are like this:

9b6x7yzz3f441.jpg


I have had zero issues with corrosion or rust in almost 20 years of all my pc water cooling parts including all fittings, rads, piping (soft-hard) and pumps.
 
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using Prestone + distilled water 50\50 since years
 
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It's just a color.

If the coolant is Ethalyne glycol based, that's pretty much it. The color doesn't matter much.

Manufacturers color the coolant and try to make it "their special coolant", but little differs other than color.
 
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It's just a color.

If the coolant is Ethalyne glycol based, that's pretty much it. The color doesn't matter much.

Manufacturers color the coolant and try to make it "their special coolant", but little differs other than color.
Wrong, but enjoy your wrongness.
 
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Wrong, but enjoy your wrongness.
We buy bulk at the shop. There's 2 kinds of coolant.

Ethalyne glycol and propylene glycol.

In fact that's all that's on the refractometer. It does not distinguish between colors.

I will enjoy the wrongness. :)
 
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It's just a color.

If the coolant is Ethalyne glycol based, that's pretty much it. The color doesn't matter much.

Manufacturers color the coolant and try to make it "their special coolant", but little differs other than color.

Prestone has 5-year, 10-year and 15-year versions
Product Listing - Prestone® Total Protection

I conjecture the difference is in the additives.

So, let's just say that everyone is right.
 
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