• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.

Best 80mm 4-pin CPU fan?

Joined
Jul 25, 2006
Messages
9,869 (1.68/day)
Location
Nebraska, USA
System Name Brightworks Systems BWS-6 E-IV
Processor Intel Core i5-6600 @ 3.9GHz
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 Rev 1.0
Cooling Quality case, 2 x Fractal Design 140mm fans, stock CPU HSF
Memory 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 Corsair Vengeance
Video Card(s) EVGA GEForce GTX 1050Ti 4Gb GDDR5
Storage Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD
Display(s) Samsung S24E650BW LED x 2
Case Fractal Design Define R4
Power Supply EVGA Supernova 550W G2 Gold
Mouse Logitech M190
Keyboard Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5050
Software W10 Pro 64-bit
Because PSU fans tend to be a bit of an unknown making a neutral set up hard to determine and achieve, I generally recommend a "slight" positive or overpressure. With a negative pressure "dirty" air gets sucked in through every crack, crevice and port :eek: in the case. With a "slight" over pressure, the vast majority of intake air gets pulled in through the intake vents which [hopefully] are filtered.

You only want "slight" over (or under) however. Otherwise, too much can result in stagnancy and the desired "flow" of cool air through the case may be hindered.
 

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
37,354 (6.76/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
Because PSU fans tend to be a bit of an unknown making a neutral set up hard to determine and achieve, I generally recommend a "slight" positive or overpressure. With a negative pressure "dirty" air gets sucked in through every crack, crevice and port :eek: in the case. With a "slight" over pressure, the vast majority of intake air gets pulled in through the intake vents which [hopefully] are filtered.

You only want "slight" over (or under) however. Otherwise, too much can result in stagnancy and the desired "flow" of cool air through the case may be hindered.
My case is filtered lol
 
Joined
Jul 25, 2006
Messages
9,869 (1.68/day)
Location
Nebraska, USA
System Name Brightworks Systems BWS-6 E-IV
Processor Intel Core i5-6600 @ 3.9GHz
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 Rev 1.0
Cooling Quality case, 2 x Fractal Design 140mm fans, stock CPU HSF
Memory 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 Corsair Vengeance
Video Card(s) EVGA GEForce GTX 1050Ti 4Gb GDDR5
Storage Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD
Display(s) Samsung S24E650BW LED x 2
Case Fractal Design Define R4
Power Supply EVGA Supernova 550W G2 Gold
Mouse Logitech M190
Keyboard Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5050
Software W10 Pro 64-bit
Joined
Mar 21, 2021
Messages
2,447 (4.80/day)
Location
Colorado, U.S.A.
System Name HP Compaq 8000 Elite CMT
Processor Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550
Motherboard Hewlett-Packard 3647h
Memory 16GB DDR3
Video Card(s) NVIDIA GeForce GT 1030 GDDR5 (fan-less)
Storage 2TB Seagate Firecuda 3.5"
Display(s) Dell P2416D (2560 x 1440)
Power Supply 12V HP proprietary
Software Windows 11 Pro 64-bit
I would completely ignore this number. Sleeve bearing fans don't die fast. I have several fans that are over 15 years old and still are perfectly functional. As long as you aren't smoker or use computer in coal mine, they don't die easily. At worst, you can always take them apart, put some lubricating oil and they will work better.

I already re-oil my fans (when possible), re-cap my supplies and then... complain that I have nothing to do when they don't break down :rolleyes:

Now they have 20,000 mi oil!
 

Attachments

  • 20,000 mi oil.jpg
    20,000 mi oil.jpg
    59.3 KB · Views: 10
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 6, 2021
Messages
378 (0.76/day)
Location
Bavaria ⌬ Germany
System Name ✨ Lenovo M700 [Tiny]
Cooling ⚠️ 78,08% N² ⌬ 20,95% O² ⌬ 0,93% Ar ⌬ 0,04% CO²
Audio Device(s) ◐◑ AKG K702 ⌬ FiiO E10K Olympus 2
Mouse ✌️ Corsair M65 RGB Elite [Black] ⌬ Endgame Gear MPC-890 Cordura
Keyboard ⌨ Turtle Beach Impact 500
The Noctua color sheme is just a nogo for me. I would go for the BeQuiet Pure Wings 2, dead silent & nice design. Their fans are pretty good overall.

 
Joined
Jul 25, 2006
Messages
9,869 (1.68/day)
Location
Nebraska, USA
System Name Brightworks Systems BWS-6 E-IV
Processor Intel Core i5-6600 @ 3.9GHz
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 Rev 1.0
Cooling Quality case, 2 x Fractal Design 140mm fans, stock CPU HSF
Memory 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 Corsair Vengeance
Video Card(s) EVGA GEForce GTX 1050Ti 4Gb GDDR5
Storage Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD
Display(s) Samsung S24E650BW LED x 2
Case Fractal Design Define R4
Power Supply EVGA Supernova 550W G2 Gold
Mouse Logitech M190
Keyboard Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5050
Software W10 Pro 64-bit
It should be pointed out that these days, these fans are permanently lubricated and are not meant to be re-oiled. Typically, if a computer fan loses its lubricant, that is the result of a manufacturing defect or after-manufacturing damage. It is not normal for one of these fans to require re-lubricating.

So while, generally, reoiling is fine as a temporary fix, the problem is, oils typically work great for breaking down grease type lubricants too. Breaking down a grease lubricant is not a good thing. Many may remember the old motor oil commercials where they showed a mechanic "washing" his very "greasy" hands with motor oil. Same principle.

You cannot undo or repair the damage caused by wear and tear (friction) on bearings and channels they run in. So while a little drop of oil may silence, or even unseize a fan for now, it should be considered a temporary fix to hold you over until a new fan arrives.

Before someone posts that they had this or that fan they reoiled, are there exceptions? Sure, but they generally are anecdotal exceptions. Unless you replace the bearings and/or the channels they run in, the damage is done. A few drops of oil is not going to undo that damage.
 
Joined
May 8, 2021
Messages
1,679 (3.63/day)
Location
Lithuania
System Name Shizuka
Processor Intel Core i5 10400F
Motherboard Gigabyte B460M Aorus Pro
Cooling Scythe Choten
Memory 2x8GB G.Skill Aegis 2666 MHz
Video Card(s) PowerColor Red Dragon V2 RX 580 8GB ~100 watts in Wattman
Storage 512GB WD Blue + 256GB WD Green + 4TH Toshiba X300
Display(s) BenQ BL2420PT
Case Cooler Master Silencio S400
Audio Device(s) Topping D10 + AIWA NSX-V70
Power Supply Chieftec A90 550W (GDP-550C)
Mouse Steel Series Rival 100
Keyboard Hama SL 570
Software Windows 10 Enterprise
It should be pointed out that these days, these fans are permanently lubricated and are not meant to be re-oiled. Typically, if a computer fan loses its lubricant, that is the result of a manufacturing defect or after-manufacturing damage. It is not normal for one of these fans to require re-lubricating.
Well, sort of. Fans don't have that capsule full and over time oil gets dirty from microscopic metal particles from shaft and housing. Obviously after shaft or housing is gone, it will do nothing, but after 14 years that doesn't happen. It's just ghetto maintenance and some people claim that it makes their fans quieter. It helped to me once, when oil in it was a bit hardened and removed grinding noise.
 
Joined
Jul 25, 2006
Messages
9,869 (1.68/day)
Location
Nebraska, USA
System Name Brightworks Systems BWS-6 E-IV
Processor Intel Core i5-6600 @ 3.9GHz
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3 Rev 1.0
Cooling Quality case, 2 x Fractal Design 140mm fans, stock CPU HSF
Memory 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 Corsair Vengeance
Video Card(s) EVGA GEForce GTX 1050Ti 4Gb GDDR5
Storage Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD
Display(s) Samsung S24E650BW LED x 2
Case Fractal Design Define R4
Power Supply EVGA Supernova 550W G2 Gold
Mouse Logitech M190
Keyboard Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5050
Software W10 Pro 64-bit
:( You say "sort of" then totally justified what I said - doing exactly as I predicted by citing an anecdotal exception.

Those fans are not designed to be relubricated because they are designed as permanently lubricated motors.

In a pinch, a drop of oil can quiet, or even unseize a motor. But this is a temporary step until it can be replaced with a new fan.

Nothing lasts forever - especially if there are moving parts that rub against each other. So even the best quality fan from the best maker, using the highest precision bearings and manufacturing techniques, and the finest "lifetime" lubricants WILL wear out - eventually.

Just because the bearings of a motor can be exposed, that does not mean that motor has been designed to be opened and relubricated. Also not all lubricants are designed or intended to be mixed. Unless one knows exactly the lubricant used during assembly, it is unlikely they know the precise lubricant to add years down the road.
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 8, 2021
Messages
1,679 (3.63/day)
Location
Lithuania
System Name Shizuka
Processor Intel Core i5 10400F
Motherboard Gigabyte B460M Aorus Pro
Cooling Scythe Choten
Memory 2x8GB G.Skill Aegis 2666 MHz
Video Card(s) PowerColor Red Dragon V2 RX 580 8GB ~100 watts in Wattman
Storage 512GB WD Blue + 256GB WD Green + 4TH Toshiba X300
Display(s) BenQ BL2420PT
Case Cooler Master Silencio S400
Audio Device(s) Topping D10 + AIWA NSX-V70
Power Supply Chieftec A90 550W (GDP-550C)
Mouse Steel Series Rival 100
Keyboard Hama SL 570
Software Windows 10 Enterprise
Those fans are not designed to be relubricated because they are designed as permanently lubricated motors.

In a pinch, a drop of oil can quiet, or even unseize a motor. But this is a temporary step until it can be replaced with a new fan.
Nah, it's pretty good "fix" since you can notice loudness way before catastrophical failure of fan, therefore, if you notice that bad noise, which is rattling, you can fix it and for at least several years. Some fans brand new are a bit noisier than they should be, due to too low amount of oil, therefore can be fixed for a long time to work better.

Some other bearings like Enermax twister bearings, actually advertise removing blades, meaning easy disassembly for relubricating if desired.

Just because the bearings of a motor can be exposed, that does not mean that motor has been designed to be opened and relubricated. Also not all lubricants are designed or intended to be mixed. Unless one knows exactly the lubricant used during assembly, it is unlikely they know the precise lubricant to add years down the road.
You don't mix anything, you clean up the old one and only then pick something used for lubricating moving parts. Many people swear by using sewing machine oil for example, because in sewing machine long spinning operation happens, which is similar to fan. Of course, you can use many different oils, but you should avoid using corrosive or plastic degrading oils, also shit like WD40 or sprays that aren't exactly oils, but rather one use liquids for making rusted screws move once. It's really not a rocket science and I see no good reason to not be reasonably confident about good picks (those without no known negative qualities). And if you do your own due diligence, then new oil will be way better than already dirty oil that fan manufacturer used.
 
Joined
Apr 6, 2021
Messages
378 (0.76/day)
Location
Bavaria ⌬ Germany
System Name ✨ Lenovo M700 [Tiny]
Cooling ⚠️ 78,08% N² ⌬ 20,95% O² ⌬ 0,93% Ar ⌬ 0,04% CO²
Audio Device(s) ◐◑ AKG K702 ⌬ FiiO E10K Olympus 2
Mouse ✌️ Corsair M65 RGB Elite [Black] ⌬ Endgame Gear MPC-890 Cordura
Keyboard ⌨ Turtle Beach Impact 500
Well, let's consult Dr. Linus. ;) Dr. Linus says best fans are Fluid Dynamic Bearing (FDB). He also says that using a drop or two of high grade synthetic lubricant would improve the lifetime of sleeve bearing fans. The vid is already 7 years old, but I think there was no major advancement in fan tech during that time.

 
Joined
Mar 21, 2021
Messages
2,447 (4.80/day)
Location
Colorado, U.S.A.
System Name HP Compaq 8000 Elite CMT
Processor Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550
Motherboard Hewlett-Packard 3647h
Memory 16GB DDR3
Video Card(s) NVIDIA GeForce GT 1030 GDDR5 (fan-less)
Storage 2TB Seagate Firecuda 3.5"
Display(s) Dell P2416D (2560 x 1440)
Power Supply 12V HP proprietary
Software Windows 11 Pro 64-bit
Hard drives went from ball bearings to fluid dynamic
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2021
Messages
2,447 (4.80/day)
Location
Colorado, U.S.A.
System Name HP Compaq 8000 Elite CMT
Processor Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550
Motherboard Hewlett-Packard 3647h
Memory 16GB DDR3
Video Card(s) NVIDIA GeForce GT 1030 GDDR5 (fan-less)
Storage 2TB Seagate Firecuda 3.5"
Display(s) Dell P2416D (2560 x 1440)
Power Supply 12V HP proprietary
Software Windows 11 Pro 64-bit
In some sense a loud fan does not matter because with PWM control the fan will only go as fast as needed, so that is a bit of a red herring.
 

Mussels

Freshwater Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
54,464 (8.35/day)
Location
Oystralia
System Name Rainbow Sparkles (Power efficient, <350W gaming load)
Processor Ryzen R7 5800X (PBO tweaked, 4.4-5.05GHz)
Motherboard Asus x570 Gaming-F
Cooling Alphacool Apex UV - EK Quantum Velocity AM4 + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate
Memory 2x32GB DDR4 3600 Corsair Vengeance RGB @3800 C18-22-22-22-42 TRFC704 (1.4V, SoC 1.15V Hynix MJR)
Video Card(s) Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Underclocked to either 1500Mhz 0.737v | 1700Mhz 0.75v | 1900Mhz 0.9v
Storage 2TB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + WD AN1500 1TB + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2
Display(s) Kogan 32" 4K 72Hz + Gigabyte G32QC (1440p 165Hz) + Phillips 328m6fjrmb (1440p 144Hz)
Case Fractal Design R6
Audio Device(s) Logitech G560 | Corsair Void pro RGB |Blue Yeti mic
Power Supply Fractal Ion+ 2 860W (Platinum) (This thing is God-tier. Silent and TINY)
Mouse Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL
Keyboard Razer Huntsman TE (custom white and steel keycaps)
VR HMD Oculus Rift S
Software Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS)
Benchmark Scores I don't quite know how i managed to get such a top tier PC, I am not rich.
I think i'm gunna summarise three pages of this topic into one statement:

Quality fans can do more cooling with less power draw, RPM and noise levels because of better design and components.


Noctua are the best at everything except price.


Oh and on the repair topic, it's as simple as not all fan types can be oiled and revived. Heck, try oiling a maglev fan or using oil to fix shattered bearings or a sleeve bearing fan some numpty spun backwards at 10rpm with his air compressor. You can always try repairing, but never assume they can be unless you've done that model before.
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2021
Messages
859 (2.05/day)
Processor AMD Ryzen 9 5900X (PBO enabled, no other OC) + Alphacool waterblock
Motherboard ASUS ROG Strix X570-I Gaming
Cooling custom loop: 240mm Primochill & 360mm Alphacool radiators & Noctua NF-F12 fans; NF-S12 chassis fans
Memory 32GB T-Force Dark Zα DDR4-4000 CL18 (no aRGB)
Video Card(s) ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 3080 Ti OC 12GB + Alphacool waterblock
Storage two m.2 SSDs, 4GB SATA SSD, 8GB SATA SSD
Display(s) LG OLED55C1PUB 4K@120Hz TV
Case Lian-Li O11D Mini + vertical GPU bracket
Audio Device(s) onboard Realtek chip + Sony A/V receiver
Power Supply SilverStone SX800-LTI SFX-L
Mouse Glorious D Minus
Keyboard Keychron C1 tenkeyless (Gateron Reds)
VR HMD Menlo Park, CA dogchow (Oculus Rift S)
Software Redmond, WA dogchow (Windows 10 Pro, $7 from Keysoff)
Benchmark Scores My system matches standard results. I use benchmarks to set fan curves; I don't care about scores.
Noctua are the best at everything except price.
Nope.

Noctua is a well-regarded reputable company with a long history of making quality products. There is no statistical evidence that Noctua is "the best" [sic].

However we have been over this before.

It makes zero sense for OP to spend hours and hours of research to save $5 per fan for one consumer-grade system. Just buy a fan from a reputable manufacturer and walk away having saved a bunch of time. Whether Noctua is the best is disputable but they certainly aren't the worst that's for sure.

The difficulty in answering the OP's original question is exacerbated by the fact that he has never revealed useful details of the actual part he is replacing. No manufacturer, no model number, no photo. And there has been no description of the CPU cooler it is being used on.

The ideal question would have been "What is a suitable aftermarket 80mm fan to replace an OEM DodgyBros BlowMax 420 fan cooling a DorkWad 9000 Super CPU cooler under $____ budget? (see photos)"
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 17, 2021
Messages
287 (0.96/day)
Processor R7 5800X
Motherboard ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming 4
Cooling be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4
Memory G.Skill Trident Z DDR4-3733 (2x8GB)
Video Card(s) MSI Radeon RX 5700 XT 8GB GAMING X
Storage Crucial MX500 500 GB
Display(s) ViewSonic G225fB
Case Antec 302
Power Supply be quiet! Pure Power 11 700W
I've seen 30 years old 80mm fans still working even while literally covered in thick dust, cigarette goo and dead bug parts and Noctua didn't even exist when those were made so I seriously doubt that brand is the best when it comes to fans.

Just because their fans are expensive and labeled as "pro" and "industrial" doesn't means they're indestructible and 1000% better than other fans.

I work in IT and I yet have to find an experienced builder who uses consumer grade fans for a workstation or server rack that *needs* to stay on 24/7, that alone says a lot about what products are known to be reliable in real life scenarios. Sure
I'd take a Delta or a Nidec over a Noctua or any other expensive gaming aimed brand (Bequiet, corsair, etc.) any day, and it's not like these fans are WAY more expensive, a good 12 volt 120mm Delta costs less than one of them Corsair's meme levitation RGB fans.
 
Joined
Jun 21, 2021
Messages
859 (2.05/day)
Processor AMD Ryzen 9 5900X (PBO enabled, no other OC) + Alphacool waterblock
Motherboard ASUS ROG Strix X570-I Gaming
Cooling custom loop: 240mm Primochill & 360mm Alphacool radiators & Noctua NF-F12 fans; NF-S12 chassis fans
Memory 32GB T-Force Dark Zα DDR4-4000 CL18 (no aRGB)
Video Card(s) ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 3080 Ti OC 12GB + Alphacool waterblock
Storage two m.2 SSDs, 4GB SATA SSD, 8GB SATA SSD
Display(s) LG OLED55C1PUB 4K@120Hz TV
Case Lian-Li O11D Mini + vertical GPU bracket
Audio Device(s) onboard Realtek chip + Sony A/V receiver
Power Supply SilverStone SX800-LTI SFX-L
Mouse Glorious D Minus
Keyboard Keychron C1 tenkeyless (Gateron Reds)
VR HMD Menlo Park, CA dogchow (Oculus Rift S)
Software Redmond, WA dogchow (Windows 10 Pro, $7 from Keysoff)
Benchmark Scores My system matches standard results. I use benchmarks to set fan curves; I don't care about scores.
I work in IT and I yet have to find an experienced builder who uses consumer grade fans for a workstation or server rack that *needs* to stay on 24/7, that alone says a lot about what products are known to be reliable in real life scenarios.
IT professionals/server admins are heavily budget constrained because someone else (their employer) is footing the bill.

Also they have an idea about the projected lifespan of a system they build which is also used in conditions that the typical consumer PC won't enjoy (air conditioned server rooms, filtered air, projected sunsetting dates).

I can spend $5 extra on a Noctua fan because it might add $20 more to my gaming PC build. If I were stuffing several hundred servers into a colo, I'm better off allocating some of those dollars to something else.

Using a Nidec might be fine for a server because you only expect X amount of service hours and the damned system is locked in a server room with A/C where you can't hear it dozens of kilometers away.

My gaming system? It's in my living room, parked right next to my television about 2.5 meters away and the loudest thing is my refrigerator, not industrial-grade HVAC.

Trust me, I've had PCs with many cheap fans over the past 25 years. Many of them have caused little problem but I am not going to go out of my way to stuff a home PC with 8 of them.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 19, 2006
Messages
43,348 (7.39/day)
Processor AMD Ryzen 5900x
Motherboard MSI x570s Carbon Max WiFi
Cooling Corsair AIO 360. Phantek T30 fans.
Memory 32GB G.Skill 3600Mhz CL14
Video Card(s) Zotac RTX 3070 Ti Trinity OC Watercooled
Storage SSD's
Display(s) MSI MAG322CQR
Case Lian Li PC 011 Dynamic
Audio Device(s) Schiit Modius DAC, SMSL SP200 amp. HiFiMan HE400i Headphones Presonus Eris 4.5" monitors.
Power Supply Corsair H1000i
Mouse Razer Viper V2 Pro
Keyboard Fantech Maxfit 67
Software Windows 11
Joined
Mar 21, 2021
Messages
2,447 (4.80/day)
Location
Colorado, U.S.A.
System Name HP Compaq 8000 Elite CMT
Processor Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550
Motherboard Hewlett-Packard 3647h
Memory 16GB DDR3
Video Card(s) NVIDIA GeForce GT 1030 GDDR5 (fan-less)
Storage 2TB Seagate Firecuda 3.5"
Display(s) Dell P2416D (2560 x 1440)
Power Supply 12V HP proprietary
Software Windows 11 Pro 64-bit
Looks great for my power supplies (2 wire) but not so much for the CPU (need PWM i.e., 4-wire)
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 17, 2021
Messages
287 (0.96/day)
Processor R7 5800X
Motherboard ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming 4
Cooling be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4
Memory G.Skill Trident Z DDR4-3733 (2x8GB)
Video Card(s) MSI Radeon RX 5700 XT 8GB GAMING X
Storage Crucial MX500 500 GB
Display(s) ViewSonic G225fB
Case Antec 302
Power Supply be quiet! Pure Power 11 700W
IT professionals/server admins are heavily budget constrained because someone else (their employer) is footing the bill.

Also they have an idea about the projected lifespan of a system they build which is also used in conditions that the typical consumer PC won't enjoy (air conditioned server rooms, filtered air, projected sunsetting dates).

I can spend $5 extra on a Noctua fan because it might add $20 more to my gaming PC build. If I were stuffing several hundred servers into a colo, I'm better off allocating some of those dollars to something else.

Using a Nidec might be fine for a server because you only expect X amount of service hours and the damned system is locked in a server room with A/C where you can't hear it dozens of kilometers away.

My gaming system? It's in my living room, parked right next to my television about 2.5 meters away and the loudest thing is my refrigerator, not industrial-grade HVAC.

Trust me, I've had PCs with many cheap fans over the past 25 years. Many of them have caused little problem but I am not going to go out of my way to stuff a home PC with 8 of them.

So IT professionals are morons because they choose to spend $59 on a Foxconn fan rather than $60 on a Noctua


Uh.. ok.

These are the "industrial grade" fans in my various computer and equipment enclosures at the shop:

Sunon KD1208PTB1 8cm quiet silent 80mm 8025 DC 12V 1.7W 2 wire axial inverter cooling fans blower - Newegg.com

Granted the fans I have are from the mid to late 90's and I think were made in Japan at that time.
The Japanese ones are great, same goes for Nidec.
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2019
Messages
375 (0.29/day)
The wattage it consumes is irrelevant.

Just to clarify, you are only replacing the fan - not the heatsink too?

Assuming compatible voltage and physical dimensions, what matters most with a cooling fan is how much air it moves in cubic feet per minute (CFM). Next (at least to me - because I hate fan noise) is how much racket it makes when spinning at full speed. So check the dB levels too.

As for long life - with a quality fan, it really is immaterial these days. It is much more likely you will retire the CPU due to obsolescence long before then. For this reason, bearing type is of much less importance these days too. Even a quality sleeve bearing fan can provide very quiet (important since I hate fan noise), vibration free service, and long life.

Last - do note that box fans come in different thicknesses too. If your case is a slim model, you may need to get a lower profile fan. But if you have lots of space, I recommend the thickest (tallest?) 80mm fan you can get (that still meets your other requirements - like low noise). A taller fan will have wider blades. A wider blade can scoop up and push more air at the same RPM as a thinner fan. This means a quality wider blade can move more air much more quietly (did I mention I hate fan noise?) than a thinner fan.

I hope you noted that fan noise is important to me! ;) But note too I also kept saying to get a "quality" fan.

Hey Bill, just curious, what are your thoughts on fan noise?
 

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
37,354 (6.76/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
Joined
Jan 25, 2020
Messages
868 (0.93/day)
System Name Still waiting for a 6800xt/6900xt...or not.
Processor I9 9900kf w/ HEATKILLER IV PRO Copper Nickel
Motherboard MSI MEG Z390 ACE
Cooling BarrowCH Boxfish 200mm-HWLabs SR2 420/GTX&GTS 360-BP Dual D5 MOD TOP-Koolance PMP 450-EK D5 PWM G2
Memory 4x8gb HyperX Predator RGB DDR4 4000
Video Card(s) MSI RTX 2070 Duke 8G OC w/ Byski N RTX2080TI X
Storage Adata XPG SX8200 PRO 1TB NVMe M.2 / Crucial MX500 1TB
Display(s) Acer XG270HU
Case ThermalTake X71 w/5 Noctua NF-A14 2000 IP67 PWM/3 Noctua NF-F12 2000 IP67 PWM/3 CorsairML120 Pro RGB
Audio Device(s) Klipsch Promedia 2.1
Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2
Mouse Logitech G502
Keyboard Black Aluminun Mechanical Clicky Thing With Blue LEDs, hows that for a name?!
Software Win10pro updated to whatever the latest MS crap is.
I've got a box full of old Sunon 80mm fans from the same 90s era. Mine came with 3 bare wires(no idea why they didn't put connectors on them). They are finger murderers and loud AF but they move some serious friggin air! I cant bring myself to toss them. I learned the hard way to mount fan guards on both sides of them when installing the fan connectors and testing them on my bench. The first one immediately fell over when i plugged it in, caught the edge of something and threw itself across the room. Yeehaa!
Why can't I bring myself to toss them you ask? The nostalgia for my old Chen Ming based Koolance super tower (all 92 and 80mm fans) that housed 7 of these badass propellers. She was my first truly sexy water cooled build. But man it was LOUD.
 
Top