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Best thermal pastes in 2021 ?

dgianstefani

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Well, you're wrong, and i'm too tired to write 4 paragraphs explaining every detail how.
 
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Well, if you really want to go nuts, there is another option above thermal paste. This is a leftover from my current rig.

PXL_20210203_163303476.jpg



It's a little sketchy to use. You have to disable your fan and watch the cpu temps like a hawk. Load the cpu a little to bring temps way up, then it will melt. Doubt it can be removed either, but I've never tried. I can't remember for the life of me who makes it.
 
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Lmao. Spoken like someone who doesn't use LM. Moving from Kryonaut extreme to Conductonaut on my 5950x at static voltage led to 11c drop with no other changes.
Hi,
I don't think that much drop is a typical result by just switching to LM
Your spec's verses what it shows on your R23 sub are different
Your sub shows AIO cooling where as yous spec's show optimus foundation so there is a large different in cooling ability there lol :cool:
 
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Kaliphtan

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Damn, i'll create an universal thead about thermal pastes.
I don't think it's a good idea, for example, if it gets many answers, over a period of time, a guy next year for instance will get lost and find pages and pages and it's pretty boring, here for 2021 it's like 3 pages, we covered all things already.
 
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I would say best for performance/$$$ but i'm interested in what you think the best perf not matter the cost is, as you can see, we see names coming back, names used once like the kingpin one for example, we have a good portfolio here.
Best performance no matter the cost is LiquidMetal.
I use it over a year now. Going from ArcticSilver5 to LM drop the Max CPU temp by ~5C with same cooler(AIO) and same ambient conditions.

I used ArcticSilver5 for more than 10years. I even had it with my 200+W OC of my old FX8370. No problem. Once I swap to Ryzen and less than half the watts, temps was the same. It was very odd!
The culprit is two fold. Thermal density of Ryzen chiplets and off center position under CPU IHS. That’s why LM is doing better job with Ryzen and a water block. AIO or custom loop.

As I already said on post #29

“LM
1. it does not affect at all nickel plated surface
2. it is absorbed partially into copper, and needs frequent replacement the first 6 months to avoid dry out. After 6-12 months lasts long and does not affect the surface, to get it uneven or something like that, if it not dries.
3. it does destroys aluminum coolers and surfaces
4. needs carefull handling because of liquidity and conductivity

Too much drama about LM. Yes it’s expensive compared to others but best in performance. Especially with Ryzen‘s chiplet off center design. And it’s even better when using AIO/WaterLoop.”

Make no mistake, it’s not simple material as a liquid and conductive one, though I’ve used it several times on my desktop and my 2 old laptops without any issue.
And I couldn’t care less about the 3gr I’ve used so far the last 1+year. I still have another 3gr and all 6gr cost me 50€.
 

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The thread's for discussion about thermal paste. Not bitching about other people's posts or statements.

Keep it civil please.
 
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Hi,
Well even by name liquid metal is not thermal paste
And even optimus says don't use LM on their copper cold plates.
 

bogmali

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The thread's for discussion about thermal paste. Not bitching about other people's posts or statements.

Keep it civil please.
Or arguing with someone about their experiences because they're different from yours. The thread is about giving advise people and not poo-flinging. IDC how knowledgeable you are, if your delivery is piss poor-stay out :rolleyes:
 
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Hi,
Well even by name liquid metal is not thermal paste
And even optimus says don't use LM on their copper cold plates.
Because maybe most users mis-treat/use it. If you do what it needs to be done, there is no problem. And that is frequent replacement for 2-3 times the first 4-6 months. After that you can replace it over 3-4 months and by the year you can leave it even longer. By this time the copper is saturated enough with Gallium and the TIM is not dried out, nor does it form unwanted metals on top of copper surface. As I said you need to know with what you’re dealing.
 
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Haven't seen Prolimatech PK-3 listed yet. 11.2 W/m-°C, so not far off Kryonaut but more affordable for when you need many applications.
 
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Hi,
Thermal grizzly is always overpriced and overrated hydronaut is the only one never said to scratch anything.
NT-H1 I use or newer NT-H2 although I don't like it little too wet and dries too fast
MX-4 2019 and they do have a new version too

I was alittle down on H2 at first. Had kyronaut on my gpu, had to take off heatsink and ran out of kyronaut and used h2. Right away noticed the card running afew deg hotter and delta between hotspot and edge went up. However, though they say it doesn't need to cure, after afew days I feel the temps went down and there was less of a delta between junction and hotspot after a few weeks on my gpu.

NT-H2 is more expensive than Kryonaut, here in Switzerland.

kyronaut not the easiest to work with but if its cheaper I would get that over H2 no doubt.
 
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Well, if you really want to go nuts, there is another option above thermal paste. This is a leftover from my current rig.

View attachment 186809


It's a little sketchy to use. You have to disable your fan and watch the cpu temps like a hawk. Load the cpu a little to bring temps way up, then it will melt. Doubt it can be removed either, but I've never tried. I can't remember for the life of me who makes it.
What are we looking at?
 

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I was alittle down on H2 at first. Had kyronaut on my gpu, had to take off heatsink and ran out of kyronaut and used h2. Right away noticed the card running afew deg hotter and delta between hotspot and edge went up. However, though they say it doesn't need to cure, after afew days I feel the temps went down and there was less of a delta between junction and hotspot after a few weeks on my gpu.



kyronaut not the easiest to work with but if its cheaper I would get that over H2 no doubt.
Oh yeah, they say no cure time but I can see a difference over the course of a couple of days. Usually for the better.
 
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Haven't seen Prolimatech PK-3 listed yet. 11.2 W/m-°C, so not far off Kryonaut but more affordable for when you need many applications.

Ive had very good results with pk3 and especially like how easy it is to apply vs kryonaut.
My take is use as many tims as you can get your hands on. Its cheap and easy to get. Why take one persons or one reviewers word as gospel. Put it to the test yourself. Youll always have extra on hand if you need it and as a bonus you will master the perfect application method for your sinks or blocks.
 
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What are we looking at?
Been too long since I built my machine, but here goes. Alloy changes phase around 99*C airc?

You put it on the cpu, strap down the heatsink, and disable the pump/fan. It melts around 99*C, so you have to watch the temps carefully and remove load/re-enable cooling very carefully. I used it on the lid on my 5775C with CLU under the lid, so the lid is coming off if I ever retire the machine.

I bought it in a kit that came with two. The spare goes to my next build, coming this year I hope, depending on parts avail.
 
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Been too long since I built my machine, but here goes. Alloy changes phase around 99*C airc?

You put it on the cpu, strap down the heatsink, and disable the pump/fan. It melts around 99*C, so you have to watch the temps carefully and remove load/re-enable cooling very carefully. I used it on the lid on my 5775C with CLU under the lid, so the lid is coming off if I ever retire the machine.

I bought it in a kit that came with two. The spare goes to my next build, coming this year I hope, depending on parts avail.
Ok, a type of TIM? Got a link? I'm a bit curious.
 
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1612768814136.png
 

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it's stupid of me, but if i can get my hands on the arctic mx-5, i am considering a re-paste of my cpu with it to compare before and after temps. lol
 
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I bought Corsair XTM50 and going to give it a try with Ryzen 7 3800X and the stock cooler.
 
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Cool. Never seen it before. How well does it work? BTW, a better way to apply it would be with a hair-drier or heat-gun rather than with the CPU's own heat.

It works better than anything else, but applying it can be problematic depending on the cpu.

I, for, example, had a hell of a time getting the cpu up to the melting point with a water block strapped to it. I had to pull the graphics card and fire up the igpu and cpu. Don't know if it's a problem on newer.
 
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