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Between two Seasonic

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What about corsair txm 650 vs seasonic core gm 650 at same price ?? I just want to know which one would you picked between those two. Does txm have a better fan? . I didn't made a decision yet but I'm working on it.... :p
the new TX650M is a pretty good PSU and on par with the 650 core gm. The corsair comes with a rifle bearing fan that reviews have called "wild under tough conditions" to "silent with no problem" so it is better. If its the same fan as the old TX-M unit, I can personally vouch for its silence & performance. I also think you are making a mountain out of a mole hill on the whole fan thing unless you plan to keep the PSU past ten years. The TX-M were often on sale so it should be slightly cheaper than the core 650w. I would get the cheaper of the two units regardless.
 
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I think i made a decision, im going to the gx 550 or if at that time i can afford the gx 650 but im not sure, i will see. I think the 550 it will be enough for 170-180 watt gpu such as the rx 5700 or even the xt version am i right or not ?? In the graph below from tom's hardware review for the sapphire pulse rx 5700 xt (i always prefer this brand among the others and only amd cards) show at peak gaming 250w and with another 150w for cpu+rest = 400w and it's remain 150w (30%) headroom. Anyway that's all, i hope that you agree with me !! Thanks !!

PS: If you have any disagreement on that, i'm glad to hear !!
 

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I think i made a decision, im going to the gx 550 or if at that time i can afford the gx 650 but im not sure, i will see. I think the 550 it will be enough for 170-180 watt gpu such as the rx 5700 or even the xt version am i right or not ?? In the graph below from tom's hardware review for the sapphire pulse rx 5700 xt (i always prefer this brand among the others and only amd cards) show at peak gaming 250w and with another 150w for cpu+rest = 400w and it's remain 150w (30%) headroom. Anyway that's all, i hope that you agree with me !! Thanks !!

PS: If you have any disagreement on that, i'm glad to hear !!
Good decision, no disagreements, after all, if the PSU output is more than your system power consumption, why not pick the better performing one with better components and a quieter fan, right ?

The replies of people here over complicating something so simple is funny
 
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I have one last question, i have my pc up on my desk, is there any problem to put the psu with the fan on bottom when the fan isn't spinning ?? It will start spinning only above 30% as the seasonic says or/and if the temp is high? I'm not sure the psu with my current setup will draw more that 150-160w (30%), my cpu have 95w tdp and the rx 550 50w tdp, but most of the time in gaming the radeon metrics overlay shows 5-10 watt, maybe 20-25 after half an hour (in some games). Can the heat goes out horizontally from the back or it will trap inside the psu ??
 
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I have one last question, i have my pc up on my desk, is there any problem to put the psu with the fan on bottom when the fan isn't spinning ?? It will start spinning only above 30% as the seasonic saiys or/and if the temp is high? I'm not sure the psu with my current setup will draw more that 150-160w (30%), my cpu have 95w tdp and the rx 550 50w tdp, but most of the time in gaming the radeon metrics overlay shows 5-10 watt. Can the heat goes out horizontally from the back or it will trap inside the psu ??
Ideally the fan controller prioritize load, however if key components inside the PSU gets warm the fan spins too to cool it down regardless of load, so in other words no need to worry. As of PSU mounting, no the heat wont get trapped, it will get out from the back vents of the PSU, should their be a problem, the fan will kick to the rescue !
 
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Ok thanks !! That's what i wanted to hear or to read in this case ;) !!
 
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It does not look better. Either way, that's just a matter of taste, and not obvious at all here.
Besides, PSU looks is the the least of my priorities as long as it looks similar to any of those. I don't think I'm the only one with that opinion. :D

I did a quick check for the 550 W model. The Seasonic is cheaper here in europe. Yes, you can probably find situations where the Seasonic is the more expensive one, but still, overall it's inconclusive unless looking at a specific market. I'd just grab whatever is the cheapest tho.

The Phanteks AMP 550 does not have a better fan, they both have a 2200 rpm Hong Hua HA1225H12F-Z.

It does look better to me. I'm personally tired of seeing the same old units go for higher prices. I don't know where you're from, but on PCPP in most locations I checked, Phanteks is cheaper. The only time the Seasonics are worth it, are when the others are unavailable.

You also have other models such as the Strix in EU. The Strix is the best design of these units and one is flipping hairs when the price of it and the Seasonics are compared most the time in where I live.
 

SL2

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The Focus GX came at the same time as Phanteks AMP in fall 2019.
Earthwatts Gold is four years old, just like that old Focus that you called old.
The Strix seems to be made from a different Seasonic as it is larger and has a larger fan.

 
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I own the Strix, it's basically a Focus on roids.
 
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I own the Strix, it's basically a Focus on roids.
Huh? what are the"roids" Seasonic uses in the platform? Different active power correction, larger heatsink, less aggressive fan profile?
 
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Yes, that's true, but what I had in mind is a good quality PSU that's "overpowered" so it will never be stressed out with the demands on it and therefore run cool and be very reliable. Heck, if it has fan stop, then the fan might never even spin up.
Yep. That's true. But it should also be noted that if it is a "good quality PSU", it should be able to handle very heavy, very near capacity loads for extended periods of time without it being "stressed" to the point performance, stability or longevity are affected. That is, as long as it is not allowed to overheat, or demands exceed capacity, it should not bother the PSU. Fan noise annoying the user is a different issue. So where the computer will be used could become a factor.

But to your point, I always buy bigger than I need so the PSU will run cooler, and thus quieter the vast majority of the time. But I avoid going overboard too. If I only need 350W, I am not going to buy a 750W PSU.

As far as Phanteks selling a rebranded Seasonics for a lower price, I say check back next month, it may be the other way around. In this scenario, Phanteks is a middle man and middle men always take a cut of the profits. Certainly, it costs the same amount to manufacture the PSU, regardless if branded with the Phanteks or the Seasonic logos. So if Phanteks are selling them at a lower cost, they are really cutting into their own profit margins. How long can they sustain that? IDK. They would have to sell a LOT of units and, at least here in the US, Seasonic is much more well known than the Phanteks brand. It is also likely the cut corners elsewhere too - perhaps in tech support.

I have one last question, i have my pc up on my desk, is there any problem to put the psu with the fan on bottom when the fan isn't spinning ??
PSU fans are intake fans. That is, they pull cool air into the PSU and push the heated air out the back of the PSU and computer case. This is regardless if the PSU is mounted up top, or the bottom of the case. And typically, in terms of damage or wear and tear on the PSU fan bearings, the orientation of the PSU fan does not matter. Some may argue sideways - vertically oriented - fans over time create uneven wear on the bearing channels due to gravity. I agree but that's for a different discussion.

If you look at the 4 mounting screw holes on the back of the PSU, one is off-set so the 4 screws hole do not form a rectangle. Some computer cases only let you mount the PSU one way so you have no choice. If the case supports either way AND there is an air vent in the case for the PSU, I always mount the PSU so its fan can draw cool air in through that vent. If there is no vent for the PSU, I always mount the PSU so its intake can have unrestricted access to the interior of the case.

With a computer case that supports a bottom mount power supply, if the computer case has no air vent for the PSU, and you mount the PSU with its vent down, it may struggle to get enough cool air.
 
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Huh? what are the"roids" Seasonic uses in the platform? Different active power correction, larger heatsink, less aggressive fan profile?

Yes.
 
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I think the term I personally would have used is "refined" the power supply in way that may or may not be worth the extra cost to the to the user depending on how hard they push the power supply.
 
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Well for me, after blowing my first Focus Plus 650 like an idiot (using excessive conductive crappy CM mastergel TIM on CPU), it was between some Sama or something first. A Focus unit almost nobody knows of, then the NZXT and the Strix. Since I didn't want to buy a Focus again, and the NZXT were cheaper, I checked the NZXT and they seemed to be somewhat of a low blow for the price. The primary cap smaller, software garbage and then some. Strix was a perfect fit with its design and the larger heatsink area, and whatnot. It also didn't cost a lot more than the NZXTs.
 
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When i buy the gx-550 can i test it directly on wall socket without connect anything on it to see if the fan actually works and also to test if the hybrid fan mode works ?? And if yes, then i have to wait some time (minutes/hours) to discharge maybe the inside caps or not before connect it on my pc and turns it on
 
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When i buy the gx-550 can i test it directly on wall socket without connect anything on it to see if the fan actually works and also to test if the hybrid fan mode works ?? And if yes, then i have to wait some time (minutes/hours) or not before connect it on my pc and turns it on
You can do the paperclip test to see if the fan spins.
 
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Just now i sawed this video and seems easy but it is worth it to do this i a brand new psu ?? is it risk free or can this trick damage the psu or the pc ??
Q. 1, since its full modular i have to install only the axt cable right ?
Q. 2. after the test can i immediately disconnect the psu and connected back to my pc ?

Maybe my questions are silly but i dont know much about these things....
 
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Just now i sawed this video and seems easy but it is worth it to do this i a brand new psu ?? is it risk free or can this trick damage the psu or the pc ??
Q. 1, since its full modular i have to install only the axt cable right ?
Q. 2. after the test can i immediately disconnect the psu and connected back to my pc ?
you lost me, I thought you didn't have a PC to test the PSU. Buy the PSU and install it. If you are installing the PSU at the bottom of the case with the fan down (like you said you were doing), just tilt the case to see if it spins.
 
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Yeah, i can do that too but im not sure if i can see clearly the fan, but i will see at that time. But with the paper clip trick i can check the pcu without remove the old one, in a case that the new one is DOA< i hope it will not !!
 
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If you want to test the PSU before plugging in to the PC so much... buy a digital Corsair unit (those have buttons on the back for self-check) and don't short circuit anything. That stuff is dumb, and chances of your Seasonic PSU coming broken is 1/1000 as well. Just check whether the fan is spinning or not. To heck these PSUs have fan stop options. You need to, by default, put it to fan working all the time by pressing the button on the back.

Sigh.
 
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Seasonic actually include a gizmo they call "a PSU tester", which lets you start the PSU without anything connected to it. It's the same as using the ole paperclip trick. Why would you want to do it on a factory sealed unit though?
 
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Ok ok, I would not short circuit anything, I will try to see if fan works after installing the psu by set the case horizontally on other wall socket.

You need to, by default, put it to fan working all the time by pressing the button on the back.
Why you said you "need to" ?? If you mean I need to do this to see if it works, of course I know that.
 
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..because the units come by default with that button set to fan-stop.
 
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All that paperclip test does is tell you if the PSU can power on. It does NOT tell you if the PSU is working properly.

For example, it does not tell you if all the required voltages (+12VDC, +5VDC and 3.3VDC) are present. It also does not tell you if those voltage are within the allowed ±5% tolerances. And it does not tell you if the unwanted ripple voltages have been sufficiently suppressed. So never assume the power supply is "good" just because it powers up with the paperclip method.
 
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I know all that, parerclip it shows you only if it's alive, and with that at least you don't waste time to remove the old one and install the new psu if it's doa, just that.
I read the manual from the website and to my surprise says to do first the test with the included 24 pin adapter tester or whatever it's name is, before the installation. If the seasonic says that, then I assume it's safe !!

 
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