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Blown up Capacitor?

nah,.. i just use a flat head soldering tip. first i melt the solder onto the tip, then shake it off. then repeat until there is no solder left.

beginners can use a copper wick to soak up solder.
 
***Be sure to maintain polarity or you will blow the replacement. The caps are labeled with a positive and negative side, the board should also be printed.

link for replacements: http://www.digikey.com/?curr=USDAnother
You can email or call as well. They are very helpful.

You can also buy a better replacement cap that has a longer rated lifespan: like 6000.
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dkse...e=0&rohs=0&quantity=&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=500

You will need to know max height and hole spacing as well.
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dkse...=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=500

Solder irons cheap: http://www.walmart.com/search/searc...ery=solder+iron&Find=Find&search_constraint=0
 
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Order some desoldering braid. You press it into the pad while heating it with the iron, and it draws the solder into it.
 
That dead grass like thing that is spread everywhere in the board is the part of the dielectric media of the capacitor. Try replacing the capacitor. De-soldering it is a piece of cake once you get a good hot air gun and some flux. Apply the flux on either side of the board in the exploded cap terminals and get a tweezers. Apply heat and once the solder starts to melt, lift it up. And then reconnecting the new one is even easier. Then have some iso propyl alcohol and clean the residue flux and the entire PCB of all the mess. Start it. There's 90 % chance everything else is good as you didn't turn on the switch.
 
How good are you at soldering? Because those caps are set in plated holes, meaning the solder pads go through the PCB, and they can be a bit of a bitch. If unlucky (or not careful) you can mess up the solder pads.

Also remember to measure the cap. Just because the cap has the correct values does not mean it has the correct size.

That doesnt make me nervous.....:cry: , what steps can I take to be careful?

I will also measure the cap even though I cant measure the one I am going to order. Hope they end up the same. For the 2 tails on the capacitor, can I just clip them shorter with a pair of scissors?

Thanks :rockout:
 
Solder the cap on, then clip the leads with a pair of nail clippers.
 
That doesnt make me nervous.....:cry: , what steps can I take to be careful?

I will also measure the cap even though I cant measure the one I am going to order. Hope they end up the same. For the 2 tails on the capacitor, can I just clip them shorter with a pair of scissors?

Thanks :rockout:

Be careful and make sure the solder is heated properly. Don't rush things, don't tug at things, at least until you are absolutely sure the solder is melted through.

Solder the cap on, then clip the leads with a pair of nail clippers.

The correct way is to do that before you solder, otherwise you get mechanical movement which might upset the solder. But that usually doesn't matter. :laugh:
 
Be careful and make sure the solder is heated properly. Don't rush things, don't tug at things, at least until you are absolutely sure the solder is melted through.



The correct way is to do that before you solder, otherwise you get mechanical movement which might upset the solder. But that usually doesn't matter. :laugh:

I have always clipped them afterwards, and never had a problem, nail clippers cut from both sides, so there is probs not much movement. Each to their own i guess.
 
I have always clipped them afterwards, and never had a problem, nail clippers cut from both sides, so there is probs not much movement. Each to their own i guess.

No, not really. If you're following IPC standards (and military I'm sure) you're supposed to clip them before soldering. But that is another thing entirely, hence the smiley. :)
 
So why have i seen umpteen "profesionally" made circuit boards were the leads have obviously been clipped after been soldered? usually on machine made boards. Personally i don't see it makes a difference, it would be easier for a novice at soldering to clip them afterwards instead of trying to solder two leads that are <5mm long. But as I said, each to their own. I have been soldering for over 20 years and never had a problem. There probs is not any home solderer who follows IPC standards.
 
So why have i seen umpteen "profesionally" made circuit boards were the leads have obviously been clipped after been soldered? usually on machine made boards. Personally i don't see it makes a difference, it would be easier for a novice at soldering to clip them afterwards instead of trying to solder two leads that are <5mm long. But as I said, each to their own. I have been soldering for over 20 years and never had a problem. There probs is not any home solderer who follows IPC standards.

+1.

I have a specialty pair of nippers that are made for cutting after you solder. It is much easier to seat the new cap with the leads in place.

They make the one lead/leg longer for a reason. So pay attention to orientation.

Just make sure to clip at the same height as the other caps on the board so you don't have a chance of touching the chassis when reassembled.
 
So why have i seen umpteen "profesionally" made circuit boards were the leads have obviously been clipped after been soldered? usually on machine made boards. Personally i don't see it makes a difference, it would be easier for a novice at soldering to clip them afterwards instead of trying to solder two leads that are <5mm long. But as I said, each to their own. I have been soldering for over 20 years and never had a problem. There probs is not any home solderer who follows IPC standards.

That wasn't the point at all. IPC standards is not followed by everyone. But certain shops do (I've been to shops that were VERY rigid about that sort of thing). It's not even about the stuff working or not. Which is why I meant it as a bit of a joke see? FUCKING LOL RIGHT
 
That wasn't the point at all. IPC standards is not followed by everyone. But certain shops do (I've been to shops that were VERY rigid about that sort of thing). It's not even about the stuff working or not. Which is why I meant it as a bit of a joke see? REMOVED LOL RIGHT


Well it never came across as a joke, maybe you need to be more clear next time.
 
soldering first then clipping is better. its easy to confuse leads of LEDs.
plus long leads help them keeping in place when you are turning it around.
 
Well it never came across as a joke, maybe you need to be more clear next time.

What part of "That usually don't matter. :laugh:" did you miss?

Anyway go for it!
 
4 months later...still not a good ending.

Hey guys, so i finally found the time and the courage to change the capacitor and get this, so I take out the solder with desoldering braid, didnt leave any big burn marks on the board, place in the new one and resolder. I turned the console on and guess what? It didnt work. I looked at it and I placed the capacitor incorrectly. I put the positive side on the negative but I was told it would explode if I did that, and it did not. So I took it out again and placed another capacitor (on the correct side) and it still did not work.

So I'm thinking voltage isn't even getting to the capacitor? And I'm pretty sure its the first capacitor that the voltage runs through. Anyone have any idea what I should do from this point besides throwing it off my porch and calling it a day?

Sorry for the super quick response.
 
Ok. Try measuring the voltage on the capacitor leads. That will confirm if the voltage is coming or not. Check the section earlier to it where power enters initially.
 
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