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Bought LG IPS225V - need advices :)

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#1
Hello Techpowerup!
You helped me a lot in the past and I need advice again ;)

Today I bought new LCD monitor - LG IPS225V.
I had FullHD "simple" LCD from the 1st generation - d-sub and such.

I know that this is new model and comes with fabric calibration. When I turned him on all I saw was perfect color compared to my old LCD. Zero lag in games, nothing.
But I don't know if I should go to menu and mess with any of settings there? I don't know much about IPS panels except that they need to be calibrated. But that's already done?
Should I left it as it is when it's okay or there's setting that can make my image look even better? :)
 
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#2
IPS panels only need to be calibrated if you are a professional artist or for some reason it doesn't look good out of the box. If you like the way it looks, just sit back and enjoy the awesomeness IPS panels.
 
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#3
that LG monitor was calibrated by LG in the fabric and it all looks awesome "out of box".
That means that I can leave it without entering menu and messing with settings? :)
 
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#4
IPS panels only need to be calibrated if you are a professional artist or for some reason it doesn't look good out of the box. If you like the way it looks, just sit back and enjoy the awesomeness IPS panels.
+1 to this

everyones eyes and preferences are different so to be honest if it looks smashing to you then leave it as it is :) or why not if you want to mess with settings take a note of current settings and then if you find something which looks better for you use it if not revert back to what it was?
 
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#5
the problem is that buttons of this monitor aren't even captioned so I dont know which button does what :D
 

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#6
aah just mess with them but 1st try fining a reset to so you can get it back how you like it now. Maybe try reading the manual
 
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#7
ohhh how do you like that monitor? I want to purchase one soon
 
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John Doe

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#8
To my knowledge, it should be E-IPS, which stands for budget, leftover IPS panels. Not a full baked one. If it's IQ is sufficient for you, and if you're happy with it, great. But if it came with washed out colors and dark view angles like a TN, then I'd return it for a real one. It's a what you pay is what you get situation with these. They still are superior to TN, but at the end of the day, I wouldn't hope $400 quality out of a $200 panel. You know, it is what it is. ;)
 
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#9
To my knowledge, it should be E-IPS, which stands for budget, leftover IPS panels. Not a full baked one. If it's IQ is sufficient for you, and if you're happy with it, great. But if it came with washed out colors and dark view angles like a TN, then I'd return it for a real one. It's a what you pay is what you get situation with these. They still are superior to TN, but at the end of the day, I wouldn't hope $400 quality out of a $200 panel. You know, it is what it is. ;)
the E-IPS are around the same price as TN but much better lol. It is obviously less good than IPS in IQ, but better than TN, and at that price-point, you can't ask for more! Having the viewing angles at that price-point was unheard of until E-IPS
 
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John Doe

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#10
the E-IPS are around the same price as TN but much better lol. It is obviously less good than IPS in IQ, but better than TN, and at that price-point, you can't ask for more! Having the viewing angles at that price-point was unheard of until E-IPS
Yeah but, thing is, there actually is no such term as "E-IPS". It just stands for crappy IPS panels in marketing terms (as in Economical IPS maybe...). Bit of a crapshoot. I mean, if you really want an IPS, get a real IPS. If not, then yeah, surely I also would have gone for it instead of TN. Though, with S-IPS going for $350, it comes more logical to me to get the real thing for $150 more than to waste $200. Just looked up, it costs $300 converted. I'd have paid more for a true IPS than to take the chance and feel sorry later on. You can buy a TN of bigger size (not as good but yeah).
 
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#11
Yeah but, thing is, there actually is no such term as "E-IPS". It just stands for crappy IPS panels in marketing terms (as in Economical IPS maybe...). Bit of a crapshoot. I mean, if you really want an IPS, get a real IPS. If not, then yeah, surely I also would have gone for it instead of TN. Though, with S-IPS going for $350, it comes more logical to me to get the real thing for $150 more than to waste $200. Just looked up, it costs $300 converted. I'd have paid more for a true IPS than to take the chance and feel sorry later on. You can buy a TN of bigger size (not as good but yeah).
Yes there is... E-IPS are just IPS panels that have less features (ie: no 8 bit, less IQ) and much cheaper to make. E-IPS are often preferred by gamers as the response time is quicker than that of the better IPS panels

It is the perfect transition between TN and IPS. Think of bridge SLRs in cameras
 
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John Doe

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#12
Yes there is... E-IPS are just IPS panels that have less features (ie: no 8 bit, less IQ) and much cheaper to make. E-IPS are often preferred by gamers as the response time is usually higher than that of the better IPS panels

It is the perfect transition between TN and IPS. Think of bridge SLRs in cameras
Response time means little to nothing at this time and date. With anything below 8 ms, there's zero difference to notice. Even 12 ms has been alright back in 2005. It's only after 16 ms ghosting appears, and barely any modern IPS for regular usage have that high latency anymore.

What I'm saying is, you'll either get a good panel or a crap one with TN like colors, viewing angles etc. And in this case (checked the price) it didn't seem worth it to me. To crapshoot on a 21 incher for $300... isn't the best idea. At all.
 
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#13
Response time means little to nothing at this time and date. With anything below 8 ms, there's zero difference to notice. Even 12 ms has been alright back in 2005. It's only after 16 ms ghosting appears, and barely any modern IPS for regular usage have that high latency anymore.

What I'm saying is, you'll either get a good panel or a crap one with TN like colors, viewing angles etc. And in this case (checked the price) it didn't seem worth it to me. To crapshoot on a 21 incher for $300... isn't the best idea. At all.
In the US, it's usually 200$ for the 23" and sometimes as low as 150 for the 21". Not a crapshoot at those prices... To me it is a better buy then TN at the same price
 
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#14
okay guys, I will bump my topic because I have question :)

this monitor have HDMI, DVI and D-Sub. I connected him via DVI cable I got from the LG, but I can have HDMI cable without paying anything.
Is this even worth this? I mean switching DVI to HDMI (without paying)?
 
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#15
DVI and HDMI are pretty much the same... I like HDMI's smaller connector and more versatile use I guess, so go ahead and go HDMI if you want but unless your monitor has speakers and you use them (HDMI can transport sound), it doesn't change anything
 
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#17
I will use HDMI then :)
But I want to be sure that using HDMI will not be worse than using DVI?
HDMI and DVI single link have the same video connection
 
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#19
Doesn't matter
 
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#20
hmm okay...
so I will ask one more question, this time about DVI. My Asus GTX 580 have two connectors and I believe that they are probably named something like 1 and 2 :p (I had these numbers on my graphic card when I was using MSI 560Ti).

So here's back of my current GPU - http://www.ektek.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/asus-580-gtx-4.jpg
Which one of these DVI connectors is the "primary one" aka "1"?
Yeah all the number do on the display outputs is determine the default screen in a multi monitor set up
 
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#21
I know that it doesnt matter, but I want to know which one is primary and which one is secondary :p
 
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#22
I know that it doesnt matter, but I want to know which one is primary and which one is secondary :p
You could say 1 is primary because it is the screen the bios will appear on on a multimonitor set-up, but apart from that they are identical in terms of priority, sometimes the driver can even get mixed up and set 2 as the primary monitor automatically, in all honesty i would plug it in '1' simply because it is the first number
 
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#24
same as me, that's why I'm asking which one is "1" :D
there doesn't appear to be 1, i thought i remember the sockets on Nvidia cards being labeled as you described, but after inspection it appears on all of mine they are all simply labeled 'DVI', so i imagine that there isn't a 'primary' display as such, and the card just auto-selects the one's it detects a display attached to

In which case just plug it in whatever one is better for wiring purposes, i'm 99% they are electrically identical to each other
 
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#25
I like when people throw around crap information. Especially this day and age with the internet being what it is.

The two main developers of IPS panels are Hitachi and LG. They both use slightly different nomenclature for the IPS panel variations. In LG's case, E-IPS stands for Enhanced IPS. It has wider aperture for light transmission, enabling the use of lower-power, cheaper backlights. Improves diagonal viewing angle and further reduce response time to 5ms.

LG developed E-IPS panels in 2009. In 2010 they introduced P-IPS, Professional IPS which offer 30bit color. And in 2011 they are releasing (I haven't seen any) the AH-IPS, Advanced High Performance IPS, which improves color accuracy, increases resolution, and increased light transmission for even lower power usage.


So in short, these LG E-IPS panels are a great bargain. I've since replaced all my monitors with IPS based monitors, with my gaming rigs using these LG monitors. As I do notice ghosting with anything over 8ms.