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Breathing new life into an "old" soundcard. Creative X-Fi Titanium HD

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Audio Device(s) X-Fi Titanium + Maverick Audio TubeMagic D2 DAC
Power Supply Thermaltake Toughpower 1000W
Mouse Logitech G600
Keyboard Corsair K55
Here I have my trusty old X-Fi Titanium HD. I've owned it for about a decade now. It has been a great card for me that entire time. For a long time, I used it in my main computer. A couple of years ago I swapped from using the X-Fi Titanium HD in my main computer to using a regular X-Fi Titanium (feeding an external DAC via SPDIF). I then moved the X-Fi Titanium HD into the computer that serves as the main source for my dedicated music stereo system, so that I could continue to make use of the excellent DAC that the X-Fi Titanium HD has.


My Music system consists of:
Refurbished Phenom X4 9750 Computer (used as dedicated music source, playing Foobar2000 and streaming music)
X-Fi Titanium HD
Yamaha C-80 Preamp
Yamaha M-2 amplifier (~240wpc) powering JBL 4412 Studio Monitors
2x Yamaha P2200/P2201 amps (~700wpc bridged) powering JBL L100T Speakers (crossovers upgraded to L100t3 spec)
2x Yamaha P2200/P2201 amps (~700wpc bridged) powering JBL L150 Speakers
Yamaha P3500 Amp (~500wpc) powering 2x 15" Dayton UM15-22 Ultimax Subwoofers in sealed cabinets.
Beyerdynamic DT770-Pro 80 Ohm (for headphone testing, plugged into the Preamp)





The X-Fi Titanium HD has been fantastic in stock form. The card includes two pairs of socketed opamps. One pair of single opamps that are used as a buffer, and one pair of dual opamps that are used in the I/V stage. To get to them, the cover on the card has to be removed. There are three screws on the bottom that hold the plastic shell on and then 4 screws on the back that hold the metal shield on.









The screws that hold the front of the metal cover on also double as the screws that hold the rear bracket on. Without the cover, there is nothing for those screws to screw into. If I continue to use it without the cover, I will need to get some small nuts so that the screws have something to screw into. For now, I simply used two tiny zip-ties to hold the rear bracket on. It was snug.


The stock Opamps are two JRC 2114D dual Opamps in the I/V stage and two LME49710 single Opamps in the buffer section. My attempts at Opamp rolling so far have been limited and/or unsuccessful. The LME49710 single opamps in the buffer section are basically the single opamp version of the LME49720 / LM4562 dual opamp, which has always been one of my favorites. For that reason I've had little desire to swap them out. Also, almost all of the Opamps in my "opamp collection" are dual opamps, not single opamps. The I/V stage uses dual Opamps, but I had bad results when swapping in my favorite dual Opamps such as the LM4562 or the OP627 (two single OP627 opamps on an adapter board to create a dual opamp). It always sounded like something was missing from the midrange when using anything besides the stock JRC 2114D Opamps. I just chalked it up to being something in the design that the JRC 2114D was particularly well suited for and basically gave up on those Opamps.


Given how well this card has served me, I decided to try taking the Opamp upgrade to the next level. I decided to try some Opamps from Burson Audio. https://www.bursonaudio.com/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v6/ They make discrete opamps that can sound quite nice compared to more traditional Opamps. Given my strange experience with the I/V stage Opamps, trying to swap out the buffer opamps first seemed like the safe bet. I got a set of V6 Vivid single Opamps. The process of installing them was pretty simple.






They are very tall opamps, and also fairly wide. The Opamps include an optional small riser which is necessary to be able to plug in the Opamp without it contacting surrounding components. That makes them even taller. This makes the card too wide to use the neighboring PCIe slot, and even puts the components very close to the PCIe slot one further over, but it does not touch. Here is an angle shot for a better perspective:





Putting the Burson V6 Vivid Opamps in the buffer section yielded very good results. I've always liked Opamps such as the stock LME49710 Opamps because of their texture but they can be a bit on the harsh side. Other opamps such as the OPA627 tend to be much more smooth, but almost too smooth, lacking texture. The Burson V6 Vivid Opamps seemed to be able to strike that perfect balance of having great texture but also remaining smooth to the point of not being harsh. Although it was definitely an improvement, the result was not really night and day. The stock opamps were already very good. The improvement from using the Burson V6 Vivid single Opamps in the buffer section was subtle, but ultimately I was happy with the result.


That left me wondering about the JRC 2114D dual opamps. I had sort of written-off the idea of swapping them out, but then I thought about the fact that I also have two Burson V6 Opamps in my Maverick Audio Tubemagic D2 Dac (which is what I use with my main computer via optical output from a regular X-Fi Titanium). In this case, they are two Burson V6 Classic dual Opamps. The differences between the V6 Vivid and V6 Classic Opamps are detailed in the picture below.





In practice, the Classic has a bit more of a midrange focus compared to the Vivids. When I used the V6 Classics in my Tubemagic D2 Dac, I was very impressed with the midrange. I was not eager to take them out of my external DAC but I really wanted to see if they could actually work well in the I/V stage of the X-Fi Titanium HD, unlike all of the other dual opamps that I had tried.





That was one very snug fit. Like with the buffer Opamps, I had to use the riser in order to get it up above the other components on the card. They are slightly too wide, forcing them to be installed at a very slight angle. Thankfully, with the riser, it wasn't a functional problem. If they were even a tiny bit wider however, it would not have worked without a much more involved workaround.





The result really came as a big surprise to me. The difference was huge. Like I mentioned before, I thought the improvement when I swapped the buffer opamps was subtle, but swapping these I/V stage Opamps on the other hand really was a night and day difference. I was so impressed with the result that I now have serious doubts about putting these back into my external DAC. I think they found a new perminant home on this card.


The most noticeable chance was in the midrange, from the vocal frequencies down to the midbass. Vocals were much more energetic while the texture of the midbass was absolutely fantastic. I listened to quite a few songs with this configuration. After what I thought was an hour or so, I looked at the clock and 4 hours had gone by. It's been a while since I really got sucked into the music like that. At that point, I switched my amp off and plugged my DT770-Pro headphones into my preamp for headphone testing. The results were equally impressive.


I am very satisfied with this upgrade. I will not be able to put the metal cover back on, but it doesn't seem to matter, as I am not getting any background interference with it off. The internal layout of the PC I'm using for this is very sparse, with no major components near the soundcard, and only using integrated video. That probably helps. I hope to continue using this card for many more years to come.


Note about drivers: One thing that might seem odd about upgrading a card so old is driver support. Creative has had some issues with drivers in the distant past but my experience with their drivers over the last decade has been fantastic. The latest driver for the X-Fi Titanium HD was released in 2019 and works great with Windows 10 20H2. The last driver was released after changes in Windows 10 version 1903 broke the older drivers. Despite the fact that many of the X-Fi cards date all the way back to 2005, Creative still released an entire new set of X-Fi drivers and got everything working great again. The fact that they still release drivers for cards that are ~15 years old when other companies like Nvidia abandon cards after ~8 years is pretty impressive, and quite frankly what I consider an example of good driver support. Who knows how long into the future they will continue to release new drivers (and/or how quick Microsoft will break the old ones again), but in a worst case scenario I could get away with running an older OS version on my music computer since that computer only has one purpose in life. In various computers, I'm running an X-Fi Titanium HD card, 2x X-Fi Titanium cards, 2x X-Fi XtremeGamer cards, and an X-Fi XtremeMusic card. For now they are all still going strong in their respective computers.
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2010
Messages
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Here I have my trusty old X-Fi Titanium HD. I've owned it for about a decade now. It has been a great card for me that entire time. For a long time, I used it in my main computer. A couple of years ago I swapped from using the X-Fi Titanium HD in my main computer to using a regular X-Fi Titanium (feeding an external DAC via SPDIF). I then moved the X-Fi Titanium HD into the computer that serves as the main source for my dedicated music stereo system, so that I could continue to make use of the excellent DAC that the X-Fi Titanium HD has.


My Music system consists of:
Refurbished Phenom X4 9750 Computer (used as dedicated music source, playing Foobar2000 and streaming music)
X-Fi Titanium HD
Yamaha C-80 Preamp
Yamaha M-2 amplifier (~240wpc) powering JBL 4412 Studio Monitors
2x Yamaha P2200/P2201 amps (~700wpc bridged) powering JBL L100T Speakers (crossovers upgraded to L100t3 spec)
2x Yamaha P2200/P2201 amps (~700wpc bridged) powering JBL L150 Speakers
Yamaha P3500 Amp (~500wpc) powering 2x 15" Dayton UM15-22 Ultimax Subwoofers in sealed cabinets.
Beyerdynamic DT770-Pro 80 Ohm (for headphone testing, plugged into the Preamp)





The X-Fi Titanium HD has been fantastic in stock form. The card includes two pairs of socketed opamps. One pair of single opamps that are used as a buffer, and one pair of dual opamps that are used in the I/V stage. To get to them, the cover on the card has to be removed. There are three screws on the bottom that hold the plastic shell on and then 4 screws on the back that hold the metal shield on.









The screws that hold the front of the metal cover on also double as the screws that hold the rear bracket on. Without the cover, there is nothing for those screws to screw into. If I continue to use it without the cover, I will need to get some small nuts so that the screws have something to screw into. For now, I simply used two tiny zip-ties to hold the rear bracket on. It was snug.


The stock Opamps are two JRC 2114D dual Opamps in the I/V stage and two LME49710 single Opamps in the buffer section. My attempts at Opamp rolling so far have been limited and/or unsuccessful. The LME49710 single opamps in the buffer section are basically the single opamp version of the LME49720 / LM4562 dual opamp, which has always been one of my favorites. For that reason I've had little desire to swap them out. Also, almost all of the Opamps in my "opamp collection" are dual opamps, not single opamps. The I/V stage uses dual Opamps, but I had bad results when swapping in my favorite dual Opamps such as the LM4562 or the OP627 (two single OP627 opamps on an adapter board to create a dual opamp). It always sounded like something was missing from the midrange when using anything besides the stock JRC 2114D Opamps. I just chalked it up to being something in the design that the JRC 2114D was particularly well suited for and basically gave up on those Opamps.


Given how well this card has served me, I decided to try taking the Opamp upgrade to the next level. I decided to try some Opamps from Burson Audio. https://www.bursonaudio.com/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v6/ They make discrete opamps that can sound quite nice compared to more traditional Opamps. Given my strange experience with the I/V stage Opamps, trying to swap out the buffer opamps first seemed like the safe bet. I got a set of V6 Vivid single Opamps. The process of installing them was pretty simple.






They are very tall opamps, and also fairly wide. The Opamps include an optional small riser which is necessary to be able to plug in the Opamp without it contacting surrounding components. That makes them even taller. This makes the card too wide to use the neighboring PCIe slot, and even puts the components very close to the PCIe slot one further over, but it does not touch. Here is an angle shot for a better perspective:





Putting the Burson V6 Vivid Opamps in the buffer section yielded very good results. I've always liked Opamps such as the stock LME49710 Opamps because of their texture but they can be a bit on the harsh side. Other opamps such as the OPA627 tend to be much more smooth, but almost too smooth, lacking texture. The Burson V6 Vivid Opamps seemed to be able to strike that perfect balance of having great texture but also remaining smooth to the point of not being harsh. Although it was definitely an improvement, the result was not really night and day. The stock opamps were already very good. The improvement from using the Burson V6 Vivid single Opamps in the buffer section was subtle, but ultimately I was happy with the result.


That left me wondering about the JRC 2114D dual opamps. I had sort of written-off the idea of swapping them out, but then I thought about the fact that I also have two Burson V6 Opamps in my Maverick Audio Tubemagic D2 Dac (which is what I use with my main computer via optical output from a regular X-Fi Titanium). In this case, they are two Burson V6 Classic dual Opamps. The differences between the V6 Vivid and V6 Classic Opamps are detailed in the picture below.





In practice, the Classic has a bit more of a midrange focus compared to the Vivids. When I used the V6 Classics in my Tubemagic D2 Dac, I was very impressed with the midrange. I was not eager to take them out of my external DAC but I really wanted to see if they could actually work well in the I/V stage of the X-Fi Titanium HD, unlike all of the other dual opamps that I had tried.





That was one very snug fit. Like with the buffer Opamps, I had to use the riser in order to get it up above the other components on the card. They are slightly too wide, forcing them to be installed at a very slight angle. Thankfully, with the riser, it wasn't a functional problem. If they were even a tiny bit wider however, it would not have worked without a much more involved workaround.





The result really came as a big surprise to me. The difference was huge. Like I mentioned before, I thought the improvement when I swapped the buffer opamps was subtle, but swapping these I/V stage Opamps on the other hand really was a night and day difference. I was so impressed with the result that I now have serious doubts about putting these back into my external DAC. I think they found a new perminant home on this card.


The most noticeable chance was in the midrange, from the vocal frequencies down to the midbass. Vocals were much more energetic while the texture of the midbass was absolutely fantastic. I listened to quite a few songs with this configuration. After what I thought was an hour or so, I looked at the clock and 4 hours had gone by. It's been a while since I really got sucked into the music like that. At that point, I switched my amp off and plugged my DT770-Pro headphones into my preamp for headphone testing. The results were equally impressive.


I am very satisfied with this upgrade. I will not be able to put the metal cover back on, but it doesn't seem to matter, as I am not getting any background interference with it off. The internal layout of the PC I'm using for this is very sparse, with no major components near the soundcard, and only using integrated video. That probably helps. I hope to continue using this card for many more years to come.


Note about drivers: One thing that might seem odd about upgrading a card so old is driver support. Creative has had some issues with drivers in the distant past but my experience with their drivers over the last decade has been fantastic. The latest driver for the X-Fi Titanium HD was released in 2019 and works great with Windows 10 20H2. The last driver was released after changes in Windows 10 version 1903 broke the older drivers. Despite the fact that many of the X-Fi cards date all the way back to 2005, Creative still released an entire new set of X-Fi drivers and got everything working great again. The fact that they still release drivers for cards that are ~15 years old when other companies like Nvidia abandon cards after ~8 years is pretty impressive, and quite frankly what I consider an example of good driver support. Who knows how long into the future they will continue to release new drivers (and/or how quick Microsoft will break the old ones again), but in a worst case scenario I could get away with running an older OS version on my music computer since that computer only has one purpose in life. In various computers, I'm running an X-Fi Titanium HD card, 2x X-Fi Titanium cards, 2x X-Fi XtremeGamer cards, and an X-Fi XtremeMusic card. For now they are all still going strong in their respective computers.
Many thanks for your sharing. Very detailed and interesting.
 
Joined
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Follow @GotNoRice . i swapped Muses03 and Muses01 for two stock op-amps.

The results were as different as day and night. Sound is more spacing and static. Every detail is also better.

I am completely happy with this result.

PS: i tested Muses02 but i prefer Muses01 for IV stage.

Thanks to @GotNoRice again for a very interesting article.

My system:

- Asus z390-f / i5-9600kf / PSU Corsair RM550x / Creative Gigaworks T20 Serial II



 
Last edited:
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As a fellow Creative user, I.m very interested in this card, what can you connect to the back of the card, you know of anything?
I dont think there's any front panel I could connect to this, for me it's a requirement though and the ability to connect my 7.1 speakers too, I need to upgrade those as well though...
 
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As a fellow Creative user, I.m very interested in this card, what can you connect to the back of the card, you know of anything?
I dont think there's any front panel I could connect to this, for me it's a requirement though and the ability to connect my 7.1 speakers too, I need to upgrade those as well though...
In "Information about X-Fi Titanium HD_ Features and Specifications.pdf". Creative said:

Specifications:

Model: SB1270
SNR: 122dB

Max Playback: 24bit/192KHz (Stereo Direct)
Max Playback: 24bit/96KHz (5.1)
Max Recording: 24bit/96KHz

ASIO 2.0 compliant

Output level (full scale): 2Vrms (front channels), 1Vrms (headphone)
Input level (full scale): 2Vrms (Line-In), 200mVrms (Mic-In)

Supported Headphone: Up to 330 ohms impedance
Supported Speaker: Stereo via Line Out
Supported Speaker: 5.1 via Optical Out

More info:

 
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Nice card! I had an Auzentech Prelude based on Creative hardware. Was a great card. I didn't experiment with OpAmps though I would have liked to.
 

qubit

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I've got several X-Fi cards of various vintages and I love all of them. They really do sound a cut above the rest, with a very punchy, dynamic sound that brings out the best in any recording. The sound processing options with the Creative Console Launcher are fantastic, too. Real shame it doesn't work in Windows 10, something I'm looking into fixing if possible, as I've lost a lot of major functionality.

For balance, I've not compared them to other expensive cards with similar high quality pretentions, so I can't say which would sound better. I first noticed the difference when I upgraded my ancient PCI SoundBlaster Live! 5.1. I can tell the difference without even having to do an A/B comparison, it's that obvious. Amazing.
 
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Yup, I totally agree. I loved my Creative cards too. I kick myself for not upgrading my cards from PCI. Onboard is ok for my desktop for now and I use my GPU to feed my AVR. I have an old Essence ST that is really good with headphones. Although to be honest I have never used a hardcore dedicated headphone setup. Sounds good on my analogue stereo too. I will keep my eyes open for a nice sound card.
 
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I've got several X-Fi cards of various vintages and I love all of them. They really do sound a cut above the rest, with a very punchy, dynamic sound that brings out the best in any recording. The sound processing options with the Creative Console Launcher are fantastic, too. Real shame it doesn't work in Windows 10, something I'm looking into fixing if possible, as I've lost a lot of major functionality.

For balance, I've not compared them to other expensive cards with similar high quality pretentions, so I can't say which would sound better. I first noticed the difference when I upgraded my ancient PCI SoundBlaster Live! 5.1. I can tell the difference without even having to do an A/B comparison, it's that obvious. Amazing.
Have you tried Daniel_K? He makes some fine driver packages for old hardware, used it for years on my old X-fi...
You can grab the CCL from the package too...
Yup, I totally agree. I loved my Creative cards too. I kick myself for not upgrading my cards from PCI. Onboard is ok for my desktop for now and I use my GPU to feed my AVR. I have an old Essence ST that is really good with headphones. Although to be honest I have never used a hardcore dedicated headphone setup. Sounds good on my analogue stereo too. I will keep my eyes open for a nice sound card.

I have a fairly good MB which should come with fairly good onboard audio, after having to part ways with the pci X-fi, I used the onboard audio for a while, it sounded fairly good, but was picking too much noise so I committed to buying a new soundcard, but all the new ones are all geared for gaming and 5.1 setups with a lot of bells and whistles, and so I picked the last best 7.1 soundcard that I could run, the X-fi titanium fatal1ty, it sounds as good as my old one, although the front panel is lacking a lot of features I never really used.
 

qubit

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Have you tried Daniel_K? He makes some fine driver packages for old hardware, used it for years on my old X-fi...
You can grab the CCL from the package too...
Thanks I'll try it. I really miss that CCL.

One feature I especially like is a kind of dynamic bass boost. Set it to 20Hz, the max 12dB lift and play the right track (electronic/dance) through my headphones and I can hear the deepest, most powerful and satisfying bass I've ever heard in my life! In fact, it's too intense to play it for long like that. I've got bassy speakers that it has a similar effect with, which will properly annoy the neighbours when played like that. :cool::laugh:
 
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I love my X-Fi Titanium HD and it works good with the basic windows drivers but i would love it even more if the Creative Console Launcher and all it's settings would work for me.

I use S/PDIF into my Yamaha A-S501 amp and i'm not sure if that is why the Creative Console Launcher don't seem to do anything with the effects? Can't test analogue as don't have the cables atm.

I've also tried Dan/k's drivers aswell as the latest main creative ones and even tho i can load up Creative Console Launcher none of the effects work and the EQ does nothing when i change things.
Forgot to say i'm on the latest version of windows 10 pro.
 
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I love my X-Fi Titanium HD and it works good with the basic windows drivers but i would love it even more if the Creative Console Launcher and all it's settings would work for me.

I use S/PDIF into my Yamaha A-S501 amp and i'm not sure if that is why the Creative Console Launcher don't seem to do anything with the effects? Can't test analogue as don't have the cables atm.

I've also tried Dan/k's drivers aswell as the latest main crative ones and even tho i can load up Creative Console Launcher none of the effects work and the EQ does nothing when i change things.
Forgot to say i'm on the latest version of windows 10 pro.

S/PDIF passes digital sign so any effects are lost to pure clean digital audio...
 
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Maybe get some screws with nuts, instead if using cable ties?
 
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Nice to see some people still using the old Creative stuff. My music PC runs a 2005 X-FI ExtremeMusic (std PCI version) on Win 7, although I'm considering going back to XP with it. You guys got me thinking about tinkering with the op-amps again, although I honestly love the way it sounds as-is. I output from soundcard to RCA input on an old Yamaha amp connected to a mix of old Bose and new Harmon Kardon speakers in a 5.3 surround setup. Yes I likes my bass :D
 
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I have a simple setup now as lost interest in all this surround and multi channel sound stuff since my denon amp went pop lol.
Love me yamaha amp as it has a sub out even tho it's only a stereo amp.

Since taking this picture i have moved my amp over to the right and put the sub in the middle and the right speaker is now back on it's stand on the floor :)

Will keep using me X-fi card untill the day drivers will no longer support it :D

Also excuse some of the wires i'm waiting for some stuff to hide them.

1613499140094.png
 
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Wires look "clean" to me, function before form as they say...
I would love to invest proper on some gear too, but my creative speakers sound good enough, for enjoying music, I use my headphones anyway and i love the way my setup sounds as well...
While I'm not a basshead, can't live without some good bass...
 
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Wires look "clean" to me, function before form as they say...
I would love to invest proper on some gear too, but my creative speakers sound good enough, for enjoying music, I use my headphones anyway and i love the way my setup sounds as well...
While I'm not a basshead, can't live without some good bass...
Thank you and when it comes to music there are so many things that make a lot of difference and how we hear or perceive music, When i was growing up i used to do a bit of Dj'ng in a few of the local pubs and i had some big speakers and amps that could throw out some volume and i used to blast them out in this same room in my pic and yup was loud and made this house rattle but how the times have changed over the years.

I now have my Yamaha A-S501 amp and speaker wise i have the wharfedale diamond 9.1's and the sub i have is a wharfedale SW150 and now i can play music loud without rattling the house but still get the bass i need to make me happy and the best thing is the quality, back in the day it was all boom boom but now i can hear every bass note that i never used to hear back in the day.

The main thing i have learned and realised over the years to is the clairty and volume is not all about how many watts the amp or speakers can handle or chuck out but how it uses it.
Even when i had speakers with 15inch bass cones and disco amps rated at 500watt RMS i always felt like i was pushing them on the limit.

When i turn up the setup i have now i get enough bass out of the 5.5 or 6.5-inch cones the speakers have but if i want extra room filling bass thats when the sub gets turned on and it just fills in the low end when needed.

The volume perception bit i was on about is like now for me as i type this last line, i have my amp on atm but no sub on yet the song i am playing seems loud but if i open my door and go out my room no one can hear it lol

Sorry also very drunk when i typed this and will be many mistakes in what i fully wanted to say so will correct it all when i wake up tomoz and after a few coffe's and stuff.

@qubit and @zenlaserman @tml3nr and the op and anyone else following this thread please post your setups to would love to see it all hehe
 
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My setup is simple, pc with creative X-fi Titanium and a Sony MDR-1A, bought this puppy used like new from Amazon uk, it arrived in pristine condition literally unused, it msrp was 200ish £, for me it was 80£ - 20% on prime day, an absolute bargain, bought with a 200cm cable because it was supplied with shorter ones, I believe it can do balanced but the cable is hard to come by.
Speakers are the old creative 7.1, dual drive on front and center, pretty decent sound for a small room, never really went full volume on them.

Now talking about the passion, I'm a guy who dismantled everything you can imagine, tv's, car radios, vcr's, you name it, I made a set of speakers with parts from tv's, used the tv's wood from the box, drilled as many holes I could and installed a bunch of tv speakers and others with leds and all, ofc it sucked but it was a fun project.
I have been listening to music since the 8 track days, I did vinyl, tapes, cds, recently got into minidisc and bought a few and I'm missing that DAT player on the collection, they are rare and expensive.
I also plan to build a new vinyl setup one of these days.
Btw, before the MDR-1A, I had a pair of MDR-CD900ST, these where ebay knockoffs I got for 30€, but let me tell you, they would give any Beats a run for their money as they sounded absolutely great and where pretty sturdy, enduring several years of abuse untill the cable developed a poor contact near the plug from hanging all the time, it was a sad day when I put them away...

I could go on for a while longer but it's still early in the day and we are getting off topic...
 
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Hi, I hope this is the right place to ask but how can I enable 5.1 over S/PDIF from a Creative PCI-E X-fi SB0880 titanium 7.1 on Windows 10?
I believe I need a custom driver - if someone could please point me in the right direction I would very much appreciate it, I'm a PC Luddite (especially with audio) and I'm really out of my depth here and don't really know where to begin. Many, many thanks.
 
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Fumble

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You can try the drivers from here http://danielkawakami.blogspot.com/

Then in the creative console launcher you should be able to set 5.1 from the speaker setup menu.
Thanks very much! There appears to be more than one 'support packs' that match my SB0880 card.. this is where I start to feel out of my depth again, making sure I don't do something that'll cause issues. Are you able to advide which is the exact one I need please?
Also, where do I get the Creative Console Launcher shown in your image?
Like I said, I'm a total luddite I'm afraid. I really appreciate the help.
 
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SB X-Fi Series Support Pack 5.0 is the one i think you need​

scroll down untill you see

Download:

Filename: XFI_SupportPack_5_0.exe
File size: 121 MB

Once installed you should be able to find the console launcher in the windows start menu

I'm using this driver for my - Creative SB X-Fi Titanium HD PCI-E and it seems to be working fine so far :)

When installing the drivers i believe it asks you what you want to install and the console launcher should be in the list.
 
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Fumble

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SB X-Fi Series Support Pack 5.0 is the one i think you need​

scroll down untill you see

Download:

Filename: XFI_SupportPack_5_0.exe
File size: 121 MB

Once installed you should be able to find the console launcher in the windows start menu

I'm using this driver for my - Creative SB X-Fi Titanium HD PCI-E and it seems to be working fine so far :)

When installing the drivers i believe it asks you what you want to install and the console launcher should be in the list.
Thanks very much indeed!
Very silly question, but when you say "When installing the drivers i believe it asks you what you want to install and the console launcher should be in the list." ... what exactly is the process for installing the drivers?
I really don't want to get this wrong and end up with a BSOD.
:)

Edit: I dropped the .exe into VirusTotal and it found:
TrojanSpy.Keylogger!ItyKXsB5VxE
and
Trojan.Win32.Generic.4!c
 
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Hey, for what it's worth, I just installed the 5.0 pack, runs perfectly, console launcher and all....
 

Fumble

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Hey, for what it's worth, I just installed the 5.0 pack, runs perfectly, console launcher and all....
Thanks! You have 5.1 over optical with it?
Just a bit worried about those two virus flags from VirusTotal....
 
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