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Building manually a Tower, Physically - Asking for advice

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#26
Ok guys, I'm going to work on the PSU now. Thank you very much, you're help is INCREDIBLE.

My only fear about what I've done BEFORE: I had some problems putting the Noctua in the right place so I removed it 3 times while the Thermal Paste was already on it, should I clean and re-do everythign or it will not be an issue?
Yes you should redo it. Use isopropyl alcohol to remove the thermal paste.

Do the Noctua after you get the cables wired in so you don't have to pull it prematurely again.
 
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#27
Ok guys. I'm not THAT far.

I'm actually scared since many cables of the PSU are sloppy as hell and too "hard" to be guided inside the case.

I hope to have the space for everything since I'm pretty sure I'm not being perfect here.

I still have to connect many things of the case: I have 2 4-pin thingies from the fans, but on the moba I saw a not-labeled 4-pin male, should I use that, with a splitter?

And FROM the case to the INSIDE there are 2 USB3.0 cables that I really don't understand, they are normal usb cables.
 

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#28
Why skt2011? Don't get me wrong, I love my 3820 but unless there is a reason you need the extra cores, extra memory channels, or extra PCI-E lanes, I wouldn't go this route unless you see a deal that makes this just as palatable as a skt1150 rig. Otherwise skt1150 will probably get you where you're going for less money.

Basically, if skt2011 doesn't offer any features you need, don't invest in it. It's a waste for your purposes. Not to mention it consumes more power because you have more cache, more cores, more memory controller, more PCI-E root complex, more pins, etc. For a gaming rig none of these features will help you except for PCI-E in multi (more than 2 GPUs,) GPU configs or the need to add more PCI-E devices like a RAID card or a multi-port ethernet card.
 
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#29
The PC powers up for less than a second. Then it shuts immediately down.

This is the end of my journey, I'll take it to a technician and well...
 
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#30
The PC powers up for less than a second. Then it shuts immediately down.

This is the end of my journey, I'll take it to a technician and well...
Did you remember to plug in the CPU's power cable?
 

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#31
The PC powers up for less than a second. Then it shuts immediately down.

This is the end of my journey, I'll take it to a technician and well...
Does it do this and not do it again until you unplug it for a moment then plug it back in? It could be a sign of a short. IIRC EPS12v being unplugged will make most boards just hang when you turn it on.

I would reset the BIOS/CMOS and try again. The best thing you can do it to put the machine together outside the chassis to rule out a short and to verify that it's working in the first place.

Is it really on for one full second or is it more briefly and less than one second? A quick start up and turn off (< 1 second) is definitely an indicator of a short. A full second or more before shutting off could be due to a motherboard incompatibility with either memory or the CPU and you might need a newer BIOS but with my P9X79 Deluxe the DRAM led got lit up and the machine stayed on.

You really should put the latest BIOS for your motherboard on a FLASH drive and use USB BIOS Flashback to get the latest on there, that will rule out the BIOS without needing to get anything working other than the motherboard and PSU as it doesn't require a CPU or memory to even be installed for it to work. I needed to do this when I first bought my board because my memory wasn't supported on the BIOS that the board shipped with and after flashing the BIOS to the latest it booted up without a problem.
 
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#32
Thanks guys, I'll surely take it to someone but since I worked so hard on it I'm quite depressed to do so, he won't have the "loving hands" I had.

It is MUCH briefer than a second, much shorter indeed.
 

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#33
Thanks guys, I'll surely take it to someone but since I worked so hard on it I'm quite depressed to do so, he won't have the "loving hands" I had.

It is MUCH briefer than a second, much shorter indeed.
That's definitely a short, disconnect power now before you damage the board if you haven't already. You should simply rebuild it outside of the chassis to ensure that it works as you probably have a ground fault. You don't need someone else to figure this out for you, it's pretty obvious what is going on (at least to me).

Did you forget to install standoffs or forget to use paper or some other kind of non-conductive washer between the motherboard, the standoffs, and the bolts going into the standoffs? No metal should be in contact with the motherboard except for cables and connectors. Even metal mounting brackets for coolers should have some kind of spacer between the bracket and the motherboard to prevent a short.
 
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#34
Guys, is there any way to know WHICH BIOS does my Motherboard have?

Because the technician said that probably is an old one and it can't be updated because the CPU isn't supported by it.
 
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#35
you need a CPU that is supported like an super cheap on to update the bios and then the better CPU starts working
edit: so bringing it to a shop for assembly is a good choice
 
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#38
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#39
go into the bios and somewhere it'll tell you.
Only problem doing that is that the OP can't get the pc to stay on for longer than a second.
 

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#40
Okay, that motherboard seeing how its an Asus, should have the ability if you have power connected to it, put a USB stick in it with the newest BIOS on it, press the button on the back with the recycle looking symbol with the arrows for it to flash to the newest BIOS without actually needing the system to be running.

Read the manual on that. Itll give you step by step what to do. Ive never done it.

I havent read the whole thread, but to me it sounds like something is shorted out. You used the standoffs for the motherboard right?

The motherboard you have was released when Ivy Bridge E was released, so it should come with BIOS already on it with support for your chip. Something else is going on.
 
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#41
you need a CPU that is supported like an super cheap on to update the bios and then the better CPU starts working
edit: so bringing it to a shop for assembly is a good choice
WRONG! His ASUS board, like many now, have USB Flashback which lets you flash the BIOS on the board using a flash drive. It can be done without a CPU or memory installed.

Is there any way to know which BIOS is on it now?
Doesn't matter. Just flash the latest one using USB Flashback, then you'll know for sure and you'll be able to rule it out.

I also feel ignored considering I already said that you should do this as I encountered this very same issue except for a different reason, my DRAM wasn't supported and the board didn't like it until I flashed using this method...
You really should put the latest BIOS for your motherboard on a FLASH drive and use USB BIOS Flashback to get the latest on there, that will rule out the BIOS without needing to get anything working other than the motherboard and PSU as it doesn't require a CPU or memory to even be installed for it to work. I needed to do this when I first bought my board because my memory wasn't supported on the BIOS that the board shipped with and after flashing the BIOS to the latest it booted up without a problem.
Okay, that motherboard seeing how its an Asus, should have the ability if you have power connected to it, put a USB stick in it with the newest BIOS on it, press the button on the back with the recycle looking symbol with the arrows for it to flash to the newest BIOS without actually needing the system to be running.

Read the manual on that. Itll give you step by step what to do. Ive never done it.

I havent read the whole thread, but to me it sounds like something is shorted out. You used the standoffs for the motherboard right?

The motherboard you have was released when Ivy Bridge E was released, so it should come with BIOS already on it with support for your chip. Something else is going on.
It sounds exactly like a short considering it comes on and goes off in a split second. That scream ground-fault to me. Unsupported CPUs typically hang, not shut off.
 
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#42
Thank you guys, this is very important for me. I'll say that to the technicians and it scares me a little that THEY didn't know this.
 
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#43
News.

We updated the BIOS and tried without RAM. Nothing.

I'll try to then make the Warranty of the Moba work, to change it. Maybe it's her.
 
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#44
Have you tried completely disassembling your pc and build it again? Perhaps test it OUTSIDE of the case after reassembling it (eg on the mobo box). This way at least you don't have to worry about wasting time for cable management if it is a faulty product that you need to return.

I did this for a friend a few years ago when I was trying to diagnose a similar problem. It turned out to be the case's front USB, when that was left unplugged from the mobo it worked fine.
 
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Aquinus

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#45
Have you tried completely disassembling your pc and build it again? Perhaps test it OUTSIDE of the case after reassembling it (eg on the mobo box). This way at least you don't have to worry about wasting time for cable management if it is a faulty product that you need to return.

I did this for a friend a few years ago when I was trying to diagnose a similar problem. It turned out to be the case's front USB, when that was left unplugged from the mobo it worked fine.
I know that I'm feeling ignored wrt to that theory, so the thread might as well be closed. I've been saying this from the get go; that it sounds like a ground fault/short but we'll never know unless the tower is connected outside the chassis.

Sending the board back won't fix your problem if it is a ground fault or a short if that is what's going on. YOU must fix that by mounting it properly in the chassis.

I'll put this back here again, just to try and make my point again but it doesn't seem like you're listening.
That's definitely a short, disconnect power now before you damage the board if you haven't already. You should simply rebuild it outside of the chassis to ensure that it works as you probably have a ground fault. You don't need someone else to figure this out for you, it's pretty obvious what is going on (at least to me).

Did you forget to install standoffs or forget to use paper or some other kind of non-conductive washer between the motherboard, the standoffs, and the bolts going into the standoffs? No metal should be in contact with the motherboard except for cables and connectors. Even metal mounting brackets for coolers should have some kind of spacer between the bracket and the motherboard to prevent a short.
Edit: I also got a computer back from a former friend and the ***** decided to mount the motherboard without any standoffs... "Why doesn't it work?" he said. I took it back and had to replace the motherboard because he killed it.
 
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#46
I know that I'm feeling ignored wrt to that theory, so the thread might as well be closed. I've been saying this from the get go; that it sounds like a ground fault/short but we'll never know unless the tower is connected outside the chassis.

Sending the board back won't fix your problem if it is a ground fault or a short if that is what's going on. YOU must fix that by mounting it properly in the chassis.

I'll put this back here again, just to try and make my point again but it doesn't seem like you're listening.
Yeh I agree it sound like a short. I'm just saying that it could be a short caused by something else like a crappy front panel USB (like that on my friend's PC) not necessarily the OP mounting it incorrectly.
 

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#47
Yeh I agree it sound like a short. I'm just saying that it could be a short caused by something else like a crappy front panel USB (like that on my friend's PC) not necessarily the OP mounting it incorrectly.
Touché, that's still a short though, it's just on the USB hub. More often than not that isn't the case though. I'm surprised that didn't blow a fuse on the USB port.
 
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Mouse Logitech G403 Wireless | Logitech G602
Keyboard Logitech G810 | Red Square OLD SCHOOL TKL - Gateron Blue
Software Windows 10 Home | Windows 10 Home
Benchmark Scores Citroen DS3 THP155 DSport6-spd manual|
#48
Touché, that's still a short though, it's just on the USB hub. More often than not that isn't the case though. I'm surprised that didn't blow a fuse on the USB port.
I was surprised it was the culprit tbh. It was a quality case too, my friend still has it (Coolermaster HAF 932). Not exactly sure how it happened or why, but yeh simply unplugging the front panel USB header from the mobo fixed it.
 
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#49
The thread is REALLY important, I read everyone of you, absolutely.

I've been careful, I used non-conductive gloves all the time for example. I'll now try to change the motherboard, and I'll keep you updated.