Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by chris189, Jan 16, 2013.
Anyone know which chip to mod for increased 3d voltage above 1.2v?
or if it is possible, no ones bothered figuring out how.
If I could some how change the shared memory amount to 512MB or 1GB and increase the gpu clock to 600-650Mhz it would run a lot better. I'm limited to 1.2v even after setting the vga bios to 1.280v it didn't achieve any more overclock so it tells me it's limited to 1.2v. I'm sure it has to be possible...
So far I got 555Mhz out of the core clock from 425Mhz and from increasing the overclock on the cpu and boosting it from 2.4Ghz to 2.6Ghz and boosting the ram from DDR2-800 to DDR2-867. I got about a 20-25fps increase from the cpu and gpu overclock. However the primary limitation is the Amount of shared video memory. It takes it out to 100% used video memory at any decent resolution. I already modded the vga bios and integrated it into the system bios and flashed it. If only I could find or knew which hex string in the vga bios contains the amount of shared memory.
How can I find out which chip I can pencil mod? Using a Multimeter of course?
shared memory is a BIOS feature, and overclocking is BIOS/driver level.
possible does not mean easy. what you're asking for is quite likely beyond the skill level of people on tech forums - and the capable few, would need the hardware in front of them to figure it out.
I could upload all the files for the bios and the vga bios rom I'm sure it's not impossible to use a hex editor to determine which hex value is for the amount of shared memory. Change value/ save reintegrate flash and done lol
Here's all the stuff anyone would need to find the right hex line where the shared memory value is at and increase it I suppose to 1GB from 128MB. I think there is 2 values in pheonix bios 64MB and 128MB but I would have to look again to be 100% sure.
Precarious request is precarious! Try the fifth chip down 2nd to the right. No, you're other right.
I have a couple engineers from nvidia working on it as we speak but it's cool ill take logical suggestions only.
1 You're likely to kill your laptop trying, so think how much this is worth it to you
2 Increased voltage and clock speed leads to significant extra heat being generated which the cooling system can't handle - they tend to have a hard enough time coping with everything at stock as it is
In short, doing this isn't recommended.
I dialed in the laptop cooling to the max so it runs extremely cool under full load even with the cpu overclocked from 2.4Ghz to 2.6Ghz and the gpu from 425Mhz to 555Mhz I see 60C under 100% load on both the cpu and gpu so that gives me a ton of overhead for more overclocking. By stock though with it's extremely poorly thought out design and numerous engineering flaws even stock clocks weren't possible since it would hit 80C at idle while on the desktop for the cpu and gpu. That's why I re-engineered numerous things on the laptops cooling systems. I also upgraded the I believe 65W power supply to a 150W power supply for more stability and overhead for more powerhouse performance.
I found this after searching my dump with note++ and i typed "memory" and in STRINGS0.ROM I found "Line 71 : Video Memory". So I suppose I'm getting close... So I guess open in hex to line 71 and the amount is there I suppose I change the hex value and I should be good to go. Actually just did another search for "amount" and on "Line 70 : The Amount Of Dedicated". This is easy as pie you guys. I'm just not good at knowing what to do in hex maybe you guys can help...
Here's all the files required to get going
bios file with all the dv2615nr stuff
HP PAVILION DV2615NR GEFORCE 7150M BIOS ROM VRAM ADJUST.zip
specific STRINGS0.ROM and on line 70 is the amount of dedicated and there should be a few options I suppose. I wanna leave 64MB as the minimum and have a 1GB maximum value.
Found the string of where I found 128MB and changed it to 1024MB and now I'm going to make sure the 64MB string is still in tact and try to reintegrate... this stuff is easier than i thought!
64MB string is in tact now I'm going to try and reintegrate
Integration Completed Successfully 1024MB OF SHARED VIDEO MEMORY!!!! OMG THIS IS EXCITING!!!
I might just screw around and test out 1536MB as well!!! LMAO!
Interesting, especially the mods to the cooling system - what did you do? Can you get us some pictures? TPU has a picture server that you can upload them to. www.techpowerup.org
I see that I was right about the cooling system not handling any kind of stress in its default state. That it couldn't even handle the chips at stock speeds is pretting damning though.
What make and model of laptop is it?
does it merely SAY 1024MB, or does it actually work?
check in a program like CPU-Z to see if system memory is reduced, and GPU-Z to see if its showing there
Isn't an MCP67M a northbridge with GeForce 7150m integrated graphics? Not only is it probably quite slow, but you're playing with fire as NVIDIA's GPUs and chipsets from that era pretty much all had solder bump issues. I used to own a dv6000 in 2007 with an X2 1.6GHz and GeForce 6150 IGP and it was terrible. My 2 year old laptop with a quad core Phenom II and lowest end HD 5650 was a humongous upgrade.
It's running pretty good actually now with 1024MB of video memory now all games are playable at decent resolutions
Well in the picture i removed the plastic with a soldering iron so it can suck in fresh cool air. I then removed the plastic on the exhaust vent which yielded an additional 5-10C drop in temps. I removed the yellow pin from the fan connector as well. Prior to doing the vent on back I was getting 65C in game at full load on the cpu/ gpu fully overclocked. Cpu at 2.6Ghz ram at DDR2-867, Gpu core clock at 555Mhz. With the vent removal on the back it yielded that 5-10C drop in temps so now I'm doing 50-55C under full load fully overclocked. I also removed the peg on the board where the gpu screw tightens down and removed the screw connected to the heatsink. Went out and bought a tiny screw/ washer/ bolt. Put the washer in the gpu heatsink screw hole and then slid the screw through and used that tiny nut on the other end to get it real tight. There is some PCB flex but it works and that screw mod yielded a 2-3C drop in temps. I use Arctic silver ceramique 2 and applied some on the cpu and gpu and applied the tiny dot to an ultra thin layer using my finger tip. Sanded down the gpu contact point down to a more pure metal contact and applied a tiny dot to it and spread with my finger a ultra thin layer and placed the copper shim. Then I applied the heatsink and tightened everything down. The gpu is a lot tighter on the contact know and runs cooler than without it.
Congrats man and very interesting work, i'd love to watch some pictures as qubit of the cooling improvement that you did to the laptop, or just explain them, maybe i'll give it a try on an old "oven" one with your methods and see if i can get some extra life from it.
I would like to see screenshots of GPU-z to see if the BIOS mod actully did mod the amount of ram or it just saying it did
please show screenshots of CPU-Z and GPU-Z, so we can all share that belief. if this did work, i'd be interested in more detailed steps of how - i've got some old 64/128MB nvidia GPU laptops that this could be great to give a speed boost to.
If this works reliably on more systems, having a how-to guide would help a lot of people out with older hardware.
Well in the picture i removed the plastic with a soldering iron so it can suck in fresh cool air. I then removed the plastic on the exhaust vent which yielded an additional 5-10C drop in temps. I removed the yellow pin from the fan connector as well. Prior to doing the vent on back I was getting 65C in game at full load on the cpu/ gpu fully overclocked. Cpu at 2.6Ghz ram at DDR2-867, Gpu core clock at 555Mhz. With the vent removal on the back it yielded that 5-10C drop in temps so now I'm doing 50-55C under full load fully overclocked. I also removed the peg on the board where the gpu screw tightens down and removed the screw connected to the heatsink. Went out and bought a tiny screw/ washer/ bolt. Put the washer in the gpu heatsink screw hole and then slid the screw through and used that tiny nut on the other end to get it real tight. There is some PCB flex but it works and that screw mod yielded a 2-3C drop in temps. I use Arctic silver ceramique 2 and applied some on the cpu and gpu and applied the tiny dot to an ultra thin layer using my finger tip. Sanded down the gpu contact point down to a more pure metal contact and applied a tiny dot to it and spread with my finger a ultra thin layer and cleaned cleaned all surfaces prior to paste application with 90% alcohol then placed the copper shim. Then I applied the heatsink and tightened everything down. The gpu is a lot tighter on the contact know and runs cooler than without it. I noticed my fan hole isn't perfect so I'll have to mod it to perfection because there seems to be little restriction, I'll trim it out so the whole fan is 100% visible may yield 1-2C drops.
At the moment the laptop bios is bricked since I went too low on 2d voltage but it wasn't that I actually went too low it's the fact that the boot up clock was 350Mhz and 2d clock is 100Mhz and stock 2d voltage is 1.1v and I know 0.96v works with the 350mhz boot up clock. So I modded the vga bios again and left 2d at 0.86v and reduced the bootup clock to 50Mhz. I have to pick up a 2gb flash drive to recover the bios but i'll be sure to post screenshots and even a gameplay video! Good ole' 7150M tearin' it up! lmao
My question to you would be why not? Do we love 100C load temps? Do we love crashing failing cpu/ gpu's? Do we love terrible framerates that make you wanna pull your hair out? Do we love poor computing performance? No we don't. So that's why sir. Gaming fps went way up gained about 35fps from all of it and on top of it all it runs extremely cool and stable as a rock.
i think he meant more about the damage to the laptop - yes it runs cooler, but now its not safe for portable use, defeating the primary purpose of having a laptop.
Nice work on sanding the heatsinks, that's one of the most useful things that helped me a lot when i was air-cooling. Why not removing Ceramique and adding some MX-2 or MX-4 thermal compound? It's not conductive and it could drop a couple more of degrees.
And yes, i'm in your opinion that you have to polish the finish of those holes, they're pretty "ghetto" now (just joking, no offense) ... though i know that thick plastic should be really hard to deal with. Maybe adding some grills at the end to avoid fan/heat-hand contact?
One last question, are you also active cooling the laptop from the bottom with some commercial extra fans put together in a stand-up base?
that's not true at all... how isn't it safe for portable use? I can take it anywhere and it always performs great and runs cold as hell! I don't see your logic there sir. Maybe you can explain your reasoning and then I can comment on your reasoning.
Your wrong so wrong there sir it can game it up like no other... Here's an old video I made of me gaming on Call Of Duty Modern Warfare 2...
It runs great dude plays every game that support dx9 and at solid framerates. I can run Unreal Tournament 2003/ 2004 at all maxed out everything and 1280x800 and about 30-40fps...
The below video is when I was running the TL-58 and ddr2-667 and about 2.5Ghz. Now with the DDR2-800 at DDR2-867 and 2.6Ghz overclocked TL-68 the frame rate went up considerably.
Call Of Duty Modern Warfare 2 GeForce 7150M Gamepl...
I think he needed a challenge, maybe he just needs to improve and use its creativity on other machines (his machines of course )
things go in holes. laptop not like.
When ur exhausting air out at around 4,700rpm there's no chance of anything getting in and only the chance of loads of heat exhausted out the back.
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