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Change of fan? Fan mod(s)??

T

TechnicalFreak

Guest
Hi

I have a stock AMD Athlon 64 cooler (HS+fan), and a thermaltake 80x80 fan with rheobus controller. I was wondering is it possible to take the thermaltake fan and somehow fit it on the stock HS? I'm wondering this because it can reach a maximum speed of 4800rpm (!!!).
However, I do know it sounds more than my vacuum cleaner then, but who cares I'm looking for the performance of cooling.

Thankful for any replies & have a nice weekend.
 
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if it fits it would be possible.. but the best option would be to buy something like an artic freezer pro cpu cooler and replace the stock cooler completely..

the other idea might not cost anything but would probably be more bark than bite.. its down to heatsink size (fin area) not just fan speed..

trog
 
H

hbkl

Guest
if it fits it would be possible.. but the best option would be to buy something like an artic freezer pro cpu cooler and replace the stock cooler completely..

the other idea might not cost anything but would probably be more bark than bite.. its down to heatsink size (fin area) not just fan speed..

trog

X2 thats true the thermaltake coolers its maded by another material not like the stock cooler is maded from metal or something :rockout: srry my eng is not very good
 
T

TechnicalFreak

Guest
X2 thats true the thermaltake coolers its maded by another material not like the stock cooler is maded from metal or something :rockout: srry my eng is not very good

True, the heatsink of a stock Athlon64 is made of aluminium. But it's the fan I wanted to change. And I think I know how: I'll let a company injection mold a "funnel" from 80x80 to
60x60. I know this can be done. The sad part is the price. However... I found a solution elsewhere :
http://www.gtek.net/index.php?mode=item&id=208&session=8e228168693682a267ab2be2bdbe79b1

Almost same idéa as I have. But I want mine to be "airtight" i.e. shouldn't leak out any air from the 80x80 fan. So, what I wanted to put between was rubber. I have an entire "carpet" of un-vulcanised rubber. I just need to take measurements, and cut it out. Heat it up in a small device that I have, and voilá..it's airtight.
 
Joined
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Messages
8,253 (1.23/day)
System Name money pit..
Processor Intel 9900K 4.8 at 1.152 core voltage minus 0.120 offset
Motherboard Asus rog Strix Z370-F Gaming
Cooling Dark Rock TF air cooler.. Stock vga air coolers with case side fans to help cooling..
Memory 32 gb corsair vengeance 3200
Video Card(s) Palit Gaming Pro OC 2080TI
Storage 150 nvme boot drive partition.. 1T Sandisk sata.. 1T Transend sata.. 1T 970 evo nvme m 2..
Display(s) 27" Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 165Hrz Nvidia G-Sync, IPS.. 2560x1440..
Case Gigabyte mid-tower.. cheap and nothing special..
Audio Device(s) onboard sounds with stereo amp..
Power Supply EVGA 850 watt..
Mouse Logitech G700s
Keyboard Logitech K270
Software Win 10 pro..
Benchmark Scores Firestike 29500.. timepsy 14000..
being airtight might not help.. these fans are designed to move air at a certain speed.. they can stall in essence..

i can see where u are coming from.. but u are only aware of parts of the equation..

airflow speed past the fan is very important.. sealing your leaks will slow the airflow down and cause it to stall just like an airplane wing..

its all about the pitch on the fan blades.. complicated stuff when its all weighed in together..

trog

ps.. dont let me discourage u.. bin where u are in the past myself.. its all good fun..
 
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If you're using the stock AMD heatsink, the one given with the processors back in '05 and '06, before the heatpipe ones, it uses a slim 70mm fan. It's a bit too small to fit an 80mm on top, but just using zip ties should be enough to hold it on. The extra CFM might not make a difference though, and actually, moving the 80mm from its current duty as exhaust or intake, or placing it on the CPU might raise temperatures, since there's going to be less air moving in and out of the case.
Best bet really is a whole new CPU cooler. trog suggested Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 64, and I must agree, it is a good cooler (put one into my brother's PC, showing good temps stuck on an X2 4200+), and it's really rather cheap.
 
T

TechnicalFreak

Guest
being airtight might not help.. these fans are designed to move air at a certain speed.. they can stall in essence..

i can see where u are coming from.. but u are only aware of parts of the equation..

airflow speed past the fan is very important.. sealing your leaks will slow the airflow down and cause it to stall just like an airplane wing..

its all about the pitch on the fan blades.. complicated stuff when its all weighed in together..

trog

ps.. dont let me discourage u.. bin where u are in the past myself.. its all good fun..


Yes that is true about the fin design , actually something that reminds you of a turbine is better than the old outdated fan design I plan to use which infact has a bigger "dead spot" in the mid. A friend of mine, his father has explained the entire thing more or less in detail (he worked for Saab Aerosystems) how the entire fan/turbine thing works like..
The count of number of fins - 60x60 vs. 80x80 is rather high. The original (stock) fan has more fins than the Tt, and are in a complete different design. Also the way the stock fan pushes the air is completely different. They are even in another angle if you look close enough. I think that the most stupid idéa I have come up with was "hey, I'll try and put one more fan, that pushes air thru the fins (having it installed at the side of the heatsink). So there I had one fan on top, and one fan at the side. It actually got warmer :banghead: . Reason (I guess), was that the fan on the side of the HS didn't give the fan on top a chance to cool all the way down.

I actually have a complete different fan I was planing to use, the only problem is that the engine is broken , it won't turn. I tested it once on the cpu, and managed to get it down to around 20C idle and around 35/37 on load. That one was also made by Tt (and was supplied with my PSU / Thermaltake Butterfly), and the fan design was not any ordinary but it was cylindric so it did not have the "dead spot" in the middle a normal fan would have.

Because even with a fan rotating @ 4000rpm , doesn't really mean that it IS better. All I want to do is to test and see the results. Back in school we also did heatsinks (milled on CNC machines) for use in stereo amplifiers, so even just the different designs of heatsinks make up a big difference. I.e. : My HS/fan vs something that would use copper/heatpipes would show that the one using heatpipes is better. But I think that something that cools it directly (water cooled or Vapochilled) would be even better. Because there I have a constant flow of something "removing" the heat all the time...

http://www.overclockercafe.com/Reviews/other_misc/Tt_Butterfly_480w/1003.html - Thermaltake butterfly.
http://accelenation.com/?ac.id.213.1 , another fan I had (it was even better than the above one). But sold that system..
 
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T

TechnicalFreak

Guest
if it fits it would be possible.. but the best option would be to buy something like an artic freezer pro cpu cooler and replace the stock cooler completely..

the other idea might not cost anything but would probably be more bark than bite.. its down to heatsink size (fin area) not just fan speed..

trog

I just thought of something.. Think -if- it doesn't cool as good at all? How fast can the cpu reach a critical temp before "burning up".. Perhaps it would be smarter to get a better fan..
 
Joined
Dec 18, 2005
Messages
8,253 (1.23/day)
System Name money pit..
Processor Intel 9900K 4.8 at 1.152 core voltage minus 0.120 offset
Motherboard Asus rog Strix Z370-F Gaming
Cooling Dark Rock TF air cooler.. Stock vga air coolers with case side fans to help cooling..
Memory 32 gb corsair vengeance 3200
Video Card(s) Palit Gaming Pro OC 2080TI
Storage 150 nvme boot drive partition.. 1T Sandisk sata.. 1T Transend sata.. 1T 970 evo nvme m 2..
Display(s) 27" Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 165Hrz Nvidia G-Sync, IPS.. 2560x1440..
Case Gigabyte mid-tower.. cheap and nothing special..
Audio Device(s) onboard sounds with stereo amp..
Power Supply EVGA 850 watt..
Mouse Logitech G700s
Keyboard Logitech K270
Software Win 10 pro..
Benchmark Scores Firestike 29500.. timepsy 14000..
it wont burn up that quick.. suck it and see.. check your temps in the bios..

trog
 
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