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Chilled Water Cooling now over 3 years operational

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Hi everyone, I would like to share the cooling I am using for everyone's consideration, it is chilled water cooling with the chill supplied by peltiers or TEC units.
This type of cooling allows a higher stable overclock because it operates below ambient temperature but above the temperature that condensation forms.
There is about a 15c range below ambient before condensation begins forming, of course this is varied by your environmental dew point, that would need to be tested yourself to discover when condensation occurs.
This type of cooling is for the rare few that have exhausted traditional air and water cooling and have discovered a point they just cannot get beyond with that type of cooling.
It is not a mainstream cooling solution, it is not portable to LAN parties, hardware wise it would cost a thousand dollars US to duplicate the setup, and where I live cost me $15.00 ~ $17.00 US a month to operate it utility wise.
That utility cost is estimated at 8 hrs per day which is in most situations the longest time it would be powered and operational, as this type of cooling system is not left on 24/7.
That utility cost is also seasonal that's the reason for the $15.00 ~ $17.00 monthly range it is higher in Summer and Winter than it is in Spring and Fall.
This cooling has been operational since December 30th, 2012 and tomorrow it will be operational for 3 years and 4 months, and allows me to overclock my Intel i7-3770K to 5ghz rock solid stable, and the CPU has not been delidded.
Ambient cooling would not support the 3770K overclocked to 5ghz as I run it at a 10c coolant temperature which is 15c below ambient room temperature.
I run at 10c coolant temperature to avoid condensation which begins forming at 8c as a frosty look and worsens as the temperature drops lower where at 5c drops are forming and that is the danger zone, but as long as it is operated in the 10c range there is zero condensation.
I am also a member of Toms Hardware as 4ryan6 and the link below is to the Chilled Water Cooling thread posted at Toms Hardware, it is a detailed construction of how this cooling is made.
Thank You for any interested. Ryan
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/282844-29-peltier-water-cooling
 
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Thats pretty cool! Gave me immediate flash backs on the good old days where world records were done using chilled watercooling rigs and some 120w pelts on the CPU and back then 80w would be fine for the GPUs... Macci overclocking maddness. Still have one his waterclocks around my place.
 
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Processor Intel i7-3770K OCd to 5ghz Not Delidded
Motherboard ASUS Sabertooth Z77
Cooling CPU TEC Chilled Water Cooling, GPU Radiator Cooled
Memory G.Skill Trident 1600mhz 8G 2 x 4G
Video Card(s) GTX 1080 w EK Copper/Acetal Water Block
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Case Antec 900/2 main machine, Azza 1000 cooling
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Thanks, I've been pondering ways to shrink the entire assembly down, a few ideas are on the drawing board but nothing solid enough to act on yet.
 

silentbogo

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Nice!

I was thinking about making a sub-ambient temp "oil tank PC", but dropped the idea after making an estimate of how much work needs to be done to get it going.

Still have a few 60W Peltier elements somewhere in the closet :roll:
 
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I have 100W TECs back in the CZ I think I'll pick them up and try do another cooling setup with them. My last attempt with them failed because the heatsinks I used for them were much too small this time I think I'm going to go with two H2O loops.
 

silentbogo

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I have 100W TECs back in the CZ I think I'll pick them up and try do another cooling setup with them. My last attempt with them failed because the heatsinks I used for them were much too small this time I think I'm going to go with two H2O loops.
What about Accelero XTreme IV or any equivalent monster 3-fan GPU cooling?
Cheaper than liquid cooling loop. 250-300W rated heat dissipation. Can be scavanged from a videocard graveyard :roll:
 
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What about Accelero XTreme IV or any equivalent monster 3-fan GPU cooling?
Cheaper than liquid cooling loop. 250-300W rated heat dissipation. Can be scavanged from a videocard graveyard :roll:

Takes up way too much space.

If I do water loops I can do the following to cool the TECs:

RAM water block
2 TECs
RAM water block

Since RAM blocks are very high flow rate I can use the secondary loop for more than just TEC cooling and add a GPU to it. Plus this arrangement is really space efficient. The only issue is that the combine heat output of the TECs and their intended load is about 600W so the water loop will need to be pretty beastly. The goal is to keep the cold side loop sub zero maybe even as low as -20C since I'm aiming for the hot side of the TECs to be at 40C or less.
 
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A regular refrigeration cycle would be much more efficient and probably much cheaper as well, no?

A refrigeration cycle is more efficient but not really cheaper. Also a TEC system is very very easy to throw together whereas most people can't build their own refrigeration systems. Also size wise TECs are very very small and dead silent.
 
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Ram water cooling is tossing yer money out the window, if TEC was so great.........No one uses TEC'S for a reason, still need to cool the other side. Im sure its all the Rage at Tomhardware, why I don't go there.
 
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Im sure its all the Rage at Toms Hardware, why I don't go there.

It is not the rage at Toms Hardware only a few have even ventured into it, but it has been duplicated by one other Toms member, and it has been witnessed in operation by other Toms members, so in reality that's why the thread is still there, It Works!

FYI: Many use TECs at Overclock.net, which would be more toward the Rage you are referring to.
 
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It is not the rage at Toms Hardware only a few have even ventured into it, but it has been duplicated by one other Toms member, and it has been witnessed in operation by other Toms members, so in reality that's why the thread is still there, It Works!

FYI: Many use TECs at Overclock.net, which would be more toward the Rage you are referring to.

TEC'S are not efficient, I know what they CAN do. But for all the work it takes it's simply not worth it. Unless on a remote Island where it never gets cold, the gains are minuscule at best. For all the money it takes to use one properly, I just use this instead.....
 
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Cooling CPU TEC Chilled Water Cooling, GPU Radiator Cooled
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Video Card(s) GTX 1080 w EK Copper/Acetal Water Block
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TEC'S are not efficient, I know what they CAN do. But for all the work it takes it's simply not worth it. Unless on a remote Island where it never gets cold, the gains are minuscule at best. For all the money it takes to use one properly.

I'm pretty sure I started this thread covering the negatives, whatever cooling you run is your prerogative.
 
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This type of cooling allows a higher stable overclock because it operates below ambient temperature but above the temperature that condensation forms.
There is about a 15c range below ambient before condensation begins forming, of course this is varied by your environmental dew point, that would need to be tested yourself to discover when condensation occurs.
This type of cooling is for the rare few that have exhausted traditional air and water cooling and have discovered a point they just cannot get beyond with that type of cooling.
It is not a mainstream cooling solution, it is not portable to LAN parties, hardware wise it would cost a thousand dollars US to duplicate the setup, and where I live cost me $15.00 ~ $17.00 US a month to operate it utility wise.
That utility cost is estimated at 8 hrs per day which is in most situations the longest time it would be powered and operational, as this type of cooling system is not left on 24/7.
That utility cost is also seasonal that's the reason for the $15.00 ~ $17.00 monthly range it is higher in Summer and Winter than it is in Spring and Fall.
This cooling has been operational since December 30th, 2012 and tomorrow it will be operational for 3 years and 4 months, and allows me to overclock my Intel i7-3770K to 5ghz rock solid stable, and the CPU has not been delidded.
Ambient cooling would not support the 3770K overclocked to 5ghz as I run it at a 10c coolant temperature which is 15c below ambient room temperature.
I run at 10c coolant temperature to avoid condensation which begins forming at 8c as a frosty look and worsens as the temperature drops lower where at 5c drops are forming and that is the danger zone, but as long as it is operated in the 10c range there is zero condensation.
.

Careful... condensation occurs when an object is colder than the ambient dewpoint. If the humidity is high such as in summer months, the dewpoint can be close to or even at the ambient temperature.
 
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.

Careful... condensation occurs when an object is colder than the ambient dewpoint. If the humidity is high such as in summer months, the dewpoint can be close to or even at the ambient temperature.

Below is quoted from what I said.

There is about a 15c range below ambient before condensation begins forming, of course this is varied by your environmental dew point, that would need to be tested yourself to discover when condensation occurs.

Condensation in a raw open environment may act exactly the same as the dew point tendencies but it does not act the same inside of a home that is air conditioned as most of our homes are.

If you are operating your computer in a tent outside your air conditioned home don't use this type of cooling without insulating everything critical against condensation.

However if you're running your computer inside your home already in a set AC ambient it should act the same as what mine has for over 3 years.

Let me say one more time this cooling solution has been in operation over 3 full years, it is not some type of concept cooling, it is a fully functional cooling system.

I shared this cooling here at TechPowerUP because I see the caliber of individuals here that may find this type of cooling not only extremely useful but groundbreaking as well.

If the cooling setup is duplicated it will produce close to the exact same results I have enjoyed these past years.

The price of duplicating this type of cooling hardware wise, is actually competitive with the radiators necessary in attempting to run a 0 DeltaT in radiator water cooling.

Any of you even considering running enough radiator cooling field large enough to yield a 0 DeltaT on an overclocked system should easily understand.
 
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Found a picture of my failed TEC cooler:


If I let it run for a bit it would go as low as 7C water temp but unfortunately wouldn't hold under load because the heat sinks I used to cool the hot sides were too small. The setup had 1 RAM water block in contact in contact with the cold sides of 2 100W TECs and each tec had it's own 120mm tower heatsink. There were 2 of these RAM tec heatsink sandwiches. If I do this again I'm either gonna use 140mm towers to cool the TECs or use another RAM water block on the hotside. Using RAM water blocks instead of normal heatsinks I might be able to cram the whole thing inside a case since it would be only a little larger than a 2 loop cooling system.
 
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Cooling CPU TEC Chilled Water Cooling, GPU Radiator Cooled
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Video Card(s) GTX 1080 w EK Copper/Acetal Water Block
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Found a picture of my failed TEC cooler:


If I let it run for a bit it would go as low as 7C water temp but unfortunately wouldn't hold under load because the heat sinks I used to cool the hot sides were too small. The setup had 1 RAM water block in contact in contact with the cold sides of 2 100W TECs and each tec had it's own 120mm tower heatsink. There were 2 of these RAM tec heatsink sandwiches. If I do this again I'm either gonna use 140mm towers to cool the TECs or use another RAM water block on the hotside. Using RAM water blocks instead of normal heatsinks I might be able to cram the whole thing inside a case since it would be only a little larger than a 2 loop cooling system.

I had considered using Ram water blocks myself but went with modifying the flow of CPU water blocks instead, mainly because I could get the clamping pressure I needed with those type water blocks at least 100psi, the clamping pressure makes a big difference in the thermal transfer.

The peltiers I am running are 240w 26a @ 16.5v DC, but I am using a PC type of power supply only giving them 12v DC which drops their handling to 200w 20a @ 12.0v DC.

With 2 peltiers running I am outputting 400w to cool the 3770K which is a 77w stock TDP CPU, even that overage cannot do the job without an insulated reservoir to store the cold the peltiers are producing, the tubing also needs to be insulated or a lot of the cold is lost to ambient.

It looks to me like your experimentation was heading in the right direction you just need to insulate the tubing and make yourself an insulated reservoir, port all the cold produced from the peltiers to the reservoir then out of the reservoir directly to the pump, and then to the CPU water block.
 
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