Computer Cuts Power (Shuts Down)

[Adam Krazispeed]

if you ever get a new PSU, i would recommend getting at leaset an 80+Gold, maybe even a silver or bronze, but i own a 80+gold thermaltake 750w with a Fx 6350. reading up reviews on them even on coolers, do research, i found a site that someone did a mod on an r9 290 using the reference cooler frame and cut out the gpu area to fit in a water block, but i just mounted the AIO from the arctic accellero II hybrid while still using the factory AMD FAN for the RAM/VRMs, and i no longer have high temps even with a 1100MHZ overclock on the Core clock on a R9 290 4GB and
, i swapted out my old fx 8150 for my dads FX 6350 and i actualy get better performance, CPU & GPU than i did with my old 8150

heres my AMD Reference / Modified AIO Cooler AMD REFernce R9 290 -
https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=!AMjJNqjf5hukhP0&id=2799cc95cae4a5d2!1978&cid=2799CC95CAE4A5D2

GPU Z- Showing GEN3

ASUS Sabertooth 990FX /GEN3 R2.0
my 80+ gold PSU has a 5 year warranty, some even have a 10 year warranty , but they do cost alot more but are definitaly worth it,

and #7 throw your rig in the river, and see if that cools it, or whatever? that was funny, but i know very frustrating when problems arise out of nowhere, my rig has powered down, but never at idle, only when i have the AMD cpu Multiplier at or above 4.2GHz or higher on my old 8-core 8150, but only when starting a game like Rise Of the Tomb Raider or The division Beta did it once, and i never leave it run 24/7 but i always either have low heat in my room in the winter time or Blast ice cold A/c in the summer, i know my VRMs for CPU get HOT, my CPU (6350) always tops out at most maybe 50c- and GPU never gets above 67c at highest load in THe Division,

 

[jed]

Thanks everyone. Just played 2 LoL games and monitored temps.

MoBo Highs: 90, 61, 83
CPU Highs: 71 (still seems hot!)

 

[Mr.Scott]

Still too hot. New cooling solution and fans on VRM and back of socket are eminent.
Have you had any more shutdowns?

 

[dorsetknob]

Aio Cpu coolers do not seem to have any fans to direct air over the CPU socket while some Water block Designs come with a Fan for Directing Air downwards for those essential components that need that cooling air flow
below are some example pic's to explain what i mean ( Socket 775 waterblock and cooling Fan )

 

[Mr.Scott]

Cool the socket from the backside of the board.

.

 

[chuck216]

Thanks everyone. Just played 2 LoL games and monitored temps.

MoBo Highs: 90, 61, 83
CPU Highs: 71 (still seems hot!)

Please tell me those motherboard temps are in Fahrenheit. Otherwise there is a real serious problem. Those should never get more than 10 degrees C above ambient and even then that's hot.

 

[Toothless]

Please tell me those motherboard temps are in Fahrenheit. Otherwise there is a real serious problem. Those should never get more than 10 degrees C above ambient and even then that's hot.

I'm going to laugh so hard if they're fahrenheit and not celsius.

 

[chuck216]

I'm going to laugh so hard if they're fahrenheit and not celsius.

I'm being serious though if the MB temps get that high in Celsius then he's got an even worse problem than we thought. Even the 60 degree temp in celcius is way too hot for the northbridge or southbridge and is near the danger point for the VRMs.

Normally I'd suggest a better case but the antech 300 should have plenty of ventilation as long as he's using both front intakes, the side intake and the top exhaust.

In fact the side intake should be helping to cool the VRMs.

Edit:
Though 32c, 16c and 28c are a lot more reasonable for MB temps if he did use Degrees F

 

[Mr.Scott]

Edit:
Though 32c, 16c and 28c are a lot more reasonable for MB temps if he did use Degrees F

16c is impossible. It would be below ambient. Average indoor ambient is 20-24c.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Right. 16°C is just 60.8°F and since it is impossible for a fan to cool a computer cooler than the ambient (room) temperature, it must be bogus regardless.

 

[chuck216]

16c is impossible. It would be below ambient. Average indoor ambient is 20-24c.

Depends on which time of year and which part of the world, spiringtime in say Alaska never gets above that temperature. but I was attributing the 16 to a bad sensor value.

 

[Mr.Scott]

Depends on which time of year and which part of the world, spiringtime in say Alaska never gets above that temperature.

Indoors?
I'm well aware man.
Your post was just meant to be difficult.
Troll effectively slayed.

 

[chuck216]

Indoors?
I'm well aware man.
Your post was just meant to be difficult.
Troll effectively slayed.

My intention wasn't to troll, as I said I considered that to be a bad value, the others however are quite normal temps for northbridge and southbridge. (that is if the temps he gave are Fahrenheit)

 

[jed]

My intention wasn't to troll, as I said I considered that to be a bad value, the others however are quite normal temps for northbridge and southbridge. (that is if the temps he gave are Fahrenheit)

The temps are indeed C. As I sit right now it is idling at 28/36/38. This is according to HWMonitor. The ridiculous 100+ temps were also in C.

New symptom (this happened around the same time-ish as the power-down started). Just doesn't happen as often. I will come back to my computer from idling and the screens will just be frozen. I won't be able to move my mouse cursor or anything. The computer seems to be running fine outside of that, but I have to hard reboot to get control back. Can't control alt delete or anything. Restarting monitors does not fix it.

 

[Caring1]

CPU usage might be high, locking the system up, Task Manager should show that once it unfreezes, it would also account for the high temps.

 

[Vayra86]

If additional VRM cooling won't do the trick on that motherboard any longer, it is very well possible they've already been cooked well enough to become inefficient, which results in even more heat going through them to deliver the power they need to.

 

[chuck216]

The temps are indeed C. As I sit right now it is idling at 28/36/38. This is according to HWMonitor. The ridiculous 100+ temps were also in C.

OK the idle temps are reasonable for ambient temperatures however the under load temps are way higher than they should be.

It seems almost like the heat is being retained inside your case but if you're using the one in your specs it should have plenty of ventilation, especially if you are using the top fan and the side intake. In fact the side intake would help cool the VRMs.

Part of the problem when MB temps get too high is heat retention inside the case due to poor ventilation, but your case isn't known as one with poor ventilation. but 90C for which I'm guessing are the VRM temps is just way too high even under load and as for 100c I stated before it's literally boiling your VRMs.

If your case has all fans running (hopefully at full speed as that provides the best airflow) both front ones as intakes, side panel as intake, rear as exhaust, top as exhaust, and also have your PSU positioned so the fan is facing UP inside the case so it sucks the air inside the case through the PSU to the outside of the case.

 

[Mr.Scott]

also have your PSU positioned so the fan is facing UP inside the case so it sucks the air inside the case through the PSU to the outside of the case.

That may actually be detrimental to the PSU. PSU needs cool air also. No point in heating that up too.

 

[chuck216]

That may actually be detrimental to the PSU. PSU needs cool air also. No point in heating that up too.

Normally I'd agree but in this case the additional ventilation is worth the hot air going through it and besides, his case has no vents in the bottom of it for outside air ventilation.

Also to the OP the HWmonitor temps you are giving are the System. CPU and TMPIN2 temps in that order correct? if so though high them 90C one is only about 10c above normal for a an FX CPU under full load I'm running Prime95 as I type this and my current temps are System: 29C, CPU: 81C and TMPIN2 at 76C with CPU Package temp at 76C inside a case know for having the best ventilation possible outside of a totally open case and a very good air cooler on the CPU.

My Idles are 27C, 33C and 13C respectively (the 13c is obviously a false value)

Most of your temperature problems are happening while gaming so I'd also factor GPU temperature in increasing ambient temps inside the case which brings up the question: Is the GPU using an auto fan profile to cool itself or do you have the fan(s) on it manually set to a set speed. I personally would set a speed of at least 75% to help maintain a lower temperature throughout it's operating range.

 

[Vayra86]

That may actually be detrimental to the PSU. PSU needs cool air also. No point in heating that up too.

Yes, especially if you already have airflow issues, I would not recommend using the PSU as outtake.

PSU's are more sensitive to heat than any other component in the PC. They are rated to work well at either 40 or 50 degrees C, and their fan/cooling is measured on just PSU heat, not the rest of the system. Many PSU's also get noisy when they need to start working that fan (9 out of 10 PSU's have a cheap ass, loud fan). If that fan can't keep up, you've got other issues including shutdowns due to PSU / lower 12V currents due to heat/leakage.

Besides, it doesn't solve the problem with the motherboard, there is no reason it should get that hot, additional cooling is just masking the real issue and postponing critical meltdown, nothing more. I doubt you'd want to take the PSU along with that meltdown.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Depends on which time of year and which part of the world

Time of year and part of the world have nothing to do with it - unless the computer is used outdoors. And since this is a PC and not a Panasonic Toughbook, it is highly unlikely it is being used outdoors, or that he keeps his ambient (room) temperatures below what would normally be considered "creature comfort" levels.

One note about side panel fans. Throughout the years, I have found in many cases those fans to be counterproductive - not helpful. My "guess" is because they can disrupt the desired flow of cool air through the case instead of adding to it. The consistent exception is with side panel fans that blow into a tube that channels the cool air directly onto the CPU (or GPU - depending on placement). My point is, try it both ways - don't assume a side panel fan is better.

That may actually be detrimental to the PSU. PSU needs cool air also. No point in heating that up too.

Sorry, but I don't agree with that all. That's one of the reasons PSUs have active (fan) cooling and not passive (no fan) cooling - to force air flow through it and not rely on thermal-dynamics. PSU designers don't know or care if the PSU will be mounted in a case that supports top or bottom mounted PSUs. So it does not matter if the fan is facing up or down (or sideways with a rear mounted fan - as so many are) as long as the airflow direction is exhausting the heated air out of the computer case and not back into the case interior.

I would not recommend using the PSU as outtake.

What? That is how they must be used! That is, they must be oriented to exhaust the heated air out of the PC case. In fact, I have never seen a PSU the draws air in from the back and pumps that heat into (as an "intake") into the case. That just would not make any sense.

PSU's are more sensitive to heat than any other component in the PC.

Ummm, sorry, but not true either. High-density devices - processors, memory devices, etc. are the most sensitive.

 

[Frick]

Time of year and part of the world have nothing to do with it - unless the computer is used outdoors.

It does unless the user has perfect temperature control, which I'm willing to bet money he doesn't have.

Anyway that kind of freezing sounds motherboard related to me. Have you removed the overclock yet?

 

[Vayra86]

What? That is how they must be used! That is, they must be oriented to exhaust the heated air out of the PC case. In fact, I have never seen a PSU the draws air in from the back and pumps that heat into (as an "intake") into the case. That just would not make any sense.
Ummm, sorry, but not true either. High-density devices - processors, memory devices, etc. are the most sensitive.

He has an Antec 300, which is bottom mounted and also means you can have a closed airflow circuit for the PSU, which is always preferable to having it work with in-case airflow.

In addition, hot air rises, so with a bottom mount PSU the effect on actual case airflow will be minimal at best. At the same time, you detract from the general flow of air coming from case intake fans, meaning a lower volume of fresh air going up along GPU > CPU > case outtake fans.

PSU as intake fan... ain't nobody got time for that, of course you don't do this.

Sensitivity: CPU and GPU ie chips can take far higher temps than PSU internals before they start acting wonky.

 

[Mr.Scott]

Sorry, but I don't agree with that all. That's one of the reasons PSUs have active (fan) cooling and not passive (no fan) cooling - to force air flow through it and not rely on thermal-dynamics. PSU designers don't know or care if the PSU will be mounted in a case that supports top or bottom mounted PSUs. So it does not matter if the fan is facing up or down (or sideways with a rear mounted fan - as so many are) as long as the airflow direction is exhausting the heated air out of the computer case and not back into the case interior.

Fan or no fan, common sense says that cooling PSU with 20 degree air is much better than cooling with 50 degree air.

 

[chuck216]

You're all forgetting the fact as I mentioned before that his case has no provisions for directing outside air through the PSU if he did mount it with the fan facing down I Just said to make sure it's mounted with the fan facing up because mounting it facing down would block the PSU fan completely providing NO ventilation through the PSU.