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Computer Cuts Power (Shuts Down)

jed

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Wait....you have no onboard GPU, and you have no power connected to your 7950, so how did it even boot?

I am not sure. Maybe I am miscommunicating. The GPU is powered up and running (maybe via the MoBo?) But it requires 2 6 pin slots and this backup only has one 6 pin. The computer is running, just no video (blank screens.)

Also, here is the inside of my 650W PSU.

 
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Have you got a Molex to 6 pin adapter to plug in the second slot on the GPU?
You should be able to get a picture that way.
 
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jed

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Have you got a Molex to 6 pin adapter to plug in the second slot on the GPU?
You should be able to get a picture that way.

I do not have one of those adapters. However, after four days of the test PSU running the PC at idle and no shutdowns or issues, I ordered a new PSU. I got a 80 Bronze CX600 from Corsair. So far, no issues. The PC was shutting down often, sometimes several times per day. So far it hasn't shut down yet. It's possible it was indeed the faulty PSU. A few more days time should tell.
 

jed

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Alright, guys.

I replaced the PSU with a brand new unit. I thought it may have fixed the issue as I have not recieved any hard shut downs at idle. However, the other day, playing Diablo TWO (my internet was out), I had a hard shutdown again.

Also, loading up Leage of Legends and simply PATCHING the game causes the computers screens to freeze - the fans slow down and I am forced to reboot. I haven't even been able to play the game.

Before the freeze, I saw the CPU temp at 85C and one of the MoBo temps at 96C. Is it time to call it quits and just buy a new MoBo and CPU cooler? There is no way my PC should be shutting down running Diablo II or patching a game.
 
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I saw the CPU temp at 85C
That's most likely your problem. As I said in my first reply way back in March on page 1 of this thread in post #10.

I see where you have changed the two front fans to intakes and you cleaned out the interior but your temps are still too high. I question now if your aftermarket cooler is working properly.

Not enough coffee yet to read back through this whole thread, but you said CPU radiator so you need to verify the pump is working, the system does not have air in it, it is mounted properly on the CPU, and the bond for the TIM has not been broken. You don't need to replace the TIM just because x amount of time has passed, but you must replace the TIM if the bond has been broken as that will let insulating air in.

I think you should consider replacing your CPU cooler with conventional cooling - even the OEM cooler. Reset any overclocking back to the defaults, then see what happens. If still over heating, something else is wrong - like a failing motherboard. :(
 

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Changing the thermal coumpound on the cpu does help also cleaning fans. If it still fails, get a new cpu and motherboard. Also you might for testing purposes get another motherboard for that old cpu.
 
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jed

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That's most likely your problem. As I said in my first reply way back in March on page 1 of this thread in post #10.

I see where you have changed the two front fans to intakes and you cleaned out the interior but your temps are still too high. I question now if your aftermarket cooler is working properly.

Not enough coffee yet to read back through this whole thread, but you said CPU radiator so you need to verify the pump is working, the system does not have air in it, it is mounted properly on the CPU, and the bond for the TIM has not been broken. You don't need to replace the TIM just because x amount of time has passed, but you must replace the TIM if the bond has been broken as that will let insulating air in.

I think you should consider replacing your CPU cooler with conventional cooling - even the OEM cooler. Reset any overclocking back to the defaults, then see what happens. If still over heating, something else is wrong - like a failing motherboard. :(

Hey Bill, thanks for the reply. I do agree with your post #10 about the CPU temp causing shutdown, but the issue also included sometimes the PC would power off even at idle when doing nothing. The CPU temp wasn't high during those times, so I feel it's something more. I am going to grab the stock cooler from home and replace the H60 with the stock cooler and monitor temps. I will also reapply some thermal compound where needed. OC was reset a while ago and has been running bone stock settings.

I have been thinking about just scrapping this MoBo and replacing. Not to mention, a thunder storm just zapped my ethernet port the other night, so that's toast as well. If I can get my system to run stable again, it will still perform to my standards. The CPU and GPU are still beasts. What are the thoughts on a solid $100 range motherboard with good performance? I am thinking this MSI board looks solid and will support an upgraded GPU and CPU in the future as well. I am not too in the groove with 990 vs 970, but I only plan on running one GPU and it sounds like the two PCI x16 slots are the biggest difference with 990? I do overclock my CPU and GPU if that makes a difference.
 
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jed

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It's a miracle!

I removed all the components from the computer. I replaced the crustly old H60 with the stock cooler for now, and removed the MOSFET and Northbridge MoBo Heatsink and added new paste and some nylon washers to tighten the connection.

The MoBo is idling around 35 with no programs running, and the CPU at around 30 with no programs running. Earlier, it they were idling at around 50/55. I will try to download the patch that has been giving me a 100% crash every time, and see if I can complete it now!

Edit: SHE LIVES! I was finally able to execute that patch that has been putting my MoBo at 90C and CPU at 85C and making it shut down... The max temps for the patch now was 57C MoBo and 45C CPU!

We will see if this somehow solves the random power-downs at idle as well!
 
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They weren't random. It was thermal shutdown as stated in the first 20 posts.
I'll bet it's fine now.
 
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Edit: SHE LIVES!
Great! I am glad it appears to be sorted out. I hope it holds and good news for OEM cooler fans like me, and for OEM cooler doubters too! ;)
 
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Great! I am glad it appears to be sorted out. I hope it holds and good news for OEM cooler fans like me, and for OEM cooler doubters too! ;)
News flash, stock cooler does the job it is designed for .............. WHEN thermal paste is renewed and applied correctly.
 
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jed

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They weren't random. It was thermal shutdown as stated in the first 20 posts.
I'll bet it's fine now.

I'm not sure if this is sarcasm or not. Was it thermal shutdown when my computer was idling in the middle of the night, with no programs running, cool as can be? I doubt it - but I guess anything can happen. I do hope it somehow was, so I'll never have to experience this nightmare again!
 

jed

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Great! I am glad it appears to be sorted out. I hope it holds and good news for OEM cooler fans like me, and for OEM cooler doubters too! ;)

Right, Bill! I am ashamed to say I was so excited to OC this computer when I built it that I didn't even apply the stock cooler - I went straight for the "liquid cooling". I just brought it out of the tin from 3-4 years ago with the thermal pad good as new.
 
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Right, Bill! I am ashamed to say I was so excited to OC this computer when I built it that I didn't even apply the stock cooler - I went straight for the "liquid cooling". I just brought it out of the tin from 3-4 years ago with the thermal pad good as new.
Nothing to be "ashamed" of. It worked fine for several years, right? So no harm done.

News flash, stock cooler does the job it is designed for .............. WHEN thermal paste is renewed and applied correctly.
Totally agree with the first part, not the second, but definitely the third!
  • Yes, stock coolers do the job (if not extreme overclocking AND with properly configured case cooling).
  • No, thermal paste does not need to be "renewed" unless (and always when) the cured bond between the mating surfaces has been broken.
  • Yes, it always must be applied correctly (to include thorough cleaning of old TIM (thermal interface material)before applying new).
It is a common misconception that TIM must be regularly replaced, but it is just not true. TIM will last 10, 15 years or even longer if not disturbed. There are NO, not a single CPU or GPU maker, computer maker, aftermarket cooler maker, or even a TIM maker that says TIM must be "renewed" just because it is X number of months or years old. Not one! Even if it dries out, the "heat conductive" solids that remain are still occupying the microscopic pits and valleys thus preventing unwanted insulating air from getting in. So it is still doing its job. The liquid portion of TIM is only there to make the TIM pliable so it can easily come out of the tube and be spread thin and evenly over the processor.

Since CPU/GPU makers, computer makers, and aftermarket cooler makers want their products to work right, they would recommend regular "renewal" or replacement of TIM IF it was necessary. But not a single one does! Not Intel, AMD, NVIDIA, Dell, HP, Cooler Master, Corsair, Noctua, TT, Zalman, Be Quiet! - none of them.

True, over several years, some TIMs become slightly less effective. But if you really need those few degrees to prevent crossing the threshold into "hot" territory to where the CPU becomes unstable or starts to throttle down, then you have other problems to deal with - like a broken cured bond/loose heatsink, bad CPU fan, dust filled interior, inadequate case cooling, bad voltages or improperly implemented clockspeeds.

Too often, and sadly often due to bad advice, less experienced (or just careless) users have destroyed their processors (or sockets) through mishandling due to ESD, failure to remove all power, bent pins, poor cleaning, or improper application of new TIM that never needed to be replaced in the first place. :(

If it's not broke, don't fix it!
 
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I'm not sure if this is sarcasm or not. Was it thermal shutdown when my computer was idling in the middle of the night, with no programs running, cool as can be? I doubt it - but I guess anything can happen. I do hope it somehow was, so I'll never have to experience this nightmare again!
It's thermal shutdown when your AIO is malfunctioning, sure. That can absolutely happen at anytime.
 
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I agree, it can happen at anytime, but it is not likely heat related if it happens in the middle of the night. More likely some background function is running, like Windows Update or malware scan that either forces a normal reboot, or triggers a RAM fault. Or it could be a misbehaving power supply.
 
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I agree, it can happen at anytime, but it is not likely heat related if it happens in the middle of the night. More likely some background function is running, like Windows Update or malware scan that either forces a normal reboot, or triggers a RAM fault. Or it could be a misbehaving power supply.
Pumps don't intermittently fail in the middle of the night?
 
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I didn't say that. Pumps can fail anytime. But if the computer is sleeping, the CPU should not be generating any heat so should not overheat.
 
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As long as the power is on, the CPU generates enough heat to saturate the water in the block of an AIO to the point of shutdown without a pump running. It just takes longer.
 
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