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Computer freezing randomly

Rattlehead.

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Hello,

I recently purchased a pre-build pc. I installed windows, updated all the drivers for motherboard, windows, graphics card etc. and was hoping to start gaming until this happened. My pc just rebooted itself for no reason, then the monitor started refreshing and later on, when I fixed the monitor rebooting problem, games and even casual work stuff on PC started freezing. I can't do anything beside pressing reboot button and restarting the PC. Was thinking just to return the PC to the shop but I bought it in other country and took it to the place I live so it's not as easy to deliver... Here are my specs:

CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 1500X, Quad Core, 3.50GHz
MB - MSI B450 GAMING PLUS
RAM - Corsair Vengeance LPX 8 GB DDR4 2400MHz
SSD - Crucial BX500 240GB
VGA - Asus Radeon ROG Strix 580 Gaming 8GB
PSU - CASE PSU ATX 2.3 600W/XN053

Thank you in advance.
 
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That PSU is the weakest link to me, is that a bundled cheapo no name PSU that comes with a $30 case?

Even a $30 Antec 430w/Corsair 450w would be a better option than that current PSU
 

Rattlehead.

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Case is master box mb600L. They told me in the store that they build the computer for different components, and tested it before selling. Clearly they didn't do that.
 
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Case is master box mb600L. They told me in the store that they build the computer for different components, and tested it before selling. Clearly they didn't do that.
Meh it's 480w (probably closer to 400w in real terms) on a 600w sticker PSU, though that in "theory" should be enough to pwer your system I wouldn't really trust it as far as I could throw it, have you entered the bios before the computer boots into Windows and set it to default values?

Meh it's 480w (probably closer to 400w in real terms) on a 600w sticker PSU, though that in "theory" should be enough to pwer your system I wouldn't really trust it as far as I could throw it, have you entered the bios before the computer boots into Windows and set it to default values?
That PSU doesn't correspond to the case, and is a Xilence model, I struggle to figure out why CoolerMaster who have their own brand PSU's under different OEM's would bundle a cheap PSU with a CM case that isn't of CM brand, unless I'm mistaken?

The inner geek in me is screaming PSU, in theory it should be ok although it's far from ideal, BUT it should be able to power your system. Nothing else is jumping out at me, have you reinstalled Windows as that can cause similar issues and rule out a HW problem?

btw ATX 2.3 was written in 2007 and has no basis on power requirements for a modern multi-CPU/GPU system in 2019
 

Rattlehead.

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Meh it's 480w (probably closer to 400w in real terms) on a 600w sticker PSU, though that in "theory" should be enough to pwer your system I wouldn't really trust it as far as I could throw it, have you entered the bios before the computer boots into Windows and set it to default values?


That PSU doesn't correspond to the case, and is a Xilence model, I struggle to figure out why CoolerMaster who have their own brand PSU's under different OEM's would bundle a cheap PSU with a CM case that isn't of CM brand, unless I'm mistaken?

The inner geek in me is screaming PSU, in theory it should be ok although it's far from ideal, BUT it should be able to power your system. Nothing else is jumping out at me, have you reinstalled Windows as that can cause similar issues and rule out a HW problem?

btw ATX 2.3 was written in 2007 and has no basis on power requirements for a modern multi-CPU/GPU system in 2019

The case manufacturers didn't put that power supply, it was done by the store. I checked different graphics card I get the same result. Going to re-install windows, if the same issue appears I'll just take it to tech support store or smth...
 
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Get a better, brand name PSU of around 550W minimum, preferably single rail with high Amperage on the 12v RAIL.
 
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How do I know for sure if it's PSU problem?
Can you get your hands on a power meter to check your systems power consumption at the wall?
Total power draw may exceed (under load) that which the PSU is capable of.
Your current PSU has power spread across 3.3, 5 and 12V rails which decreases that available where it is truly needed.
 

Rattlehead.

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Can you get your hands on a power meter to check your systems power consumption at the wall?
Total power draw may exceed (under load) that which the PSU is capable of.
Your current PSU has power spread across 3.3, 5 and 12V rails which decreases that available where it is truly needed.

I don't think I can find one unless to buy it ofc. Is there any software program that can check the power consumption?
 
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1. Recently purchased are the key words, it doesn't work, bring it back. If they give ya a hard time call ya credit card company, better business bureau, state consumer affairs.

2. Pre-builts are supposed to come with OS pre-installed.
 

Rattlehead.

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1. Recently purchased are the key words, it doesn't work, bring it back. If they give ya a hard time call ya credit card company, better business bureau, state consumer affairs.

2. Pre-builts are supposed to come with OS pre-installed.

I can't bring it back, told you in the first place. Bought it in a different country, it's gonna cost me so much money to fly back n forth, plus time...
 
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Send it to PC repair shop if you have one near and that's it.
 
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Sounds like faulty RAM to me
 
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there are a few things you can do here. ( in any order)
1. run the memtest from the bios. while in the bios have a look at temps for a 5-10 minutes.
2. inspect for loose connectors and re-seat memory
3. take the side panel off and point a fan into it. this will help if something is over heating.


also, check that memory vs QVL list for that motherbaord.
 
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I can't bring it back, told you in the first place. Bought it in a different country, it's gonna cost me so much money to fly back n forth, plus time...

1. No. you actually said "it's not as easy to deliver " which implied such was with the realm of possibility .... perhaps some place you travel to every couple of months. Not sure why it couldn't mailed back but of course, that will costs ya. Aslo doubtful if CC comany will enforce consumer laws across borders. But leaving the store, let alone the country before it was working is probably leaves you exposed to being taken advantage of.

2. "They told me in the store that they build the computer for different components, and tested it before selling. Clearly they didn't do that. "

If they built it for different components, then the very well could have tested it. However, once you change those components, don't expect it to work. When it would start to boot, it would be **confused** because it is detecting the new different components and can't find the old original components. Did you format the disk before reinstalling Windows ?

3. Have you gone int the BIOS and made sure that all of the components have recognized in the BIOS ? Are the settings in the BIOS correct for your hardware ?

4. Looks like you have either 1 stick of 8 GB or 2 x 4 GB... 2 x 4Gb is a bit weak in 2019 ... 1 stick in a dual channel MoBo defeats the purpose of dual channel memory bus. Always buy RAM in pairs for dual channel with both sticks in same package ... 1 now and 1 later leaves you exposed ... no guarantee they will work together.

5. What slot is the RAM in ?

1 stick = DIMMA2
2 sticks = DIMMA2 and DIMMB2

See pages 4 and 26 of your manual

6. Have to set all BIOS settings to default (press F6 after entering BIOS)

7. Have you checked all the installation of components of the manual page by page and insured that you did all correctly ?

a) Is GFX card in correct slot ? (PCI_E1)
b) Is the 8 pin EPS power cable plugged in from your CPU ? (Upper left)
c) IS the CPU fan plugged in (just left of RAM) slots near top ?

8. Gone thru the troubleshooting procedure on page 100 of your MoBo manual ?

9. Is SSD plugged into lowest numbered SATA port ? There are 6 ports a group of 2 and a group of 4 ... the group of 2 is the one you want, data cable goes in one closest to MoBo (bottom)

10. Have you removed and reinserted all cables ?

11. Are any of the 4 debug LEDs lit ? See page 37 of your manual

CPU LED - indicates CPU is not detected or fail.
DRAM LED - indicates DRAM is not detected or fail.
VGA LED - indicates GPU is not detected or fail.
BOOT LED - indicates the booting device is not detected or fail.

12. Have you Cleared CMOS ... see page 36 of your manual.

13. Gone thru all the pages of your manual for BIOS settings and compared with what you see on screen ?
 
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