Computer won't start up at all

[jsfitz54]

Picture of 4-pin?

It is an 8-pin design.

Is the 8-pin slot plugged in using 4+4 pin?

Trying to rule out lack of power to CPU.


Screw choice OK in my book.

 

[Norton]

It says its the CPU LED.



He already reset the bios and took out the battery.

I know but if he turned the TPU from on to off it would be a good idea to reset again.

@Op- did you disconnect 1/2 of the 8pin CPU/board connector for the pic or are you just using a 4pin?

**EDIT- jsfitz54 beat me to it ***

 

[Peacekeeper]

If there is a TPU switch I cannot find it.

I am just using 4pin - Reason being that the other 4pins do not connect into the slots.

 

[jsfitz54]

Page 2.3.6 Manual shows 4 pin setup.

Can't tell from orientation of retension notch but you could be using the wrong 4 side.

ALL 8 should go no issues. Are you using the proper 8pin from the power supply?

 

[TheMailMan78]

Page 2.3.6 Manual shows 4 pin setup.

Can't tell from orientation of retension notch but you could be using the wrong 4 side.

ALL 8 should go no issues. Are you using the proper 8pin from the power supply?

4 pin is fine. It wouldnt have booted to begin with if not. Remeber this thing was working and just stopped.

 

[Peacekeeper]

Page 2.3.6 Manual shows 4 pin setup.

Can't tell from orientation of retension notch but you could be using the wrong 4.

ALL 8 should go no issues.

The problem is that the other four are completely the wrong shape to go into the slots

 

[Norton]

If there is a TPU switch I cannot find it.

I am just using 4pin - Reason being that the other 4pins do not connect into the slots.

You're right I checked your manual TPU switch is on the EVO model but not on the Pro version you have. TPU function on/off is in the Bios setup in your board

I see 3 hard drives plugged into the board. Is your boot drive plugged into one of the bottom SATA ports or the one on the side of the board?

 

[jsfitz54]

It could be time to try reseating the CPU.

AND take a close look at the pins for burn marks.

Anyone else agree?

 

[jsfitz54]

The problem is that the other four are completely the wrong shape to go into the slots

Is that the only 8pin configuration on that PSU?

EDIT: never mind looked up psu on newegg.

 

[Peacekeeper]

You're right I checked your manual TPU switch is on the EVO model but not on the Pro version you have. TPU function on/off is in the Bios setup in your board

I see 3 hard drives plugged into the board. Is your boot drive plugged into one of the bottom SATA ports or the one on the side of the board?

The boot drive is the one with the orange SATA cable on the photo, it's connection into one of the side ports.

Is that the only 8pin configuration on that PSU?

Unfortunately yes.

I'm not looking forward to removal of the CPU if it comes to that as I WILL break something it is a guarantee.

 

[TheMailMan78]

Did you try this?

Try taking one stick of ram out. If that doesn't work switch slots. Then try the other stick.

Also disconnect all drives but the OS drive. Including the optical and any USB.

 

[jsfitz54]

Did you try and boot without the hard drive connected.

In other words disconnect all sata cables. and clear cmos again with no drives.

Single ram stick in slot A2.

 

[JrRacinFan]

Sounds like PSU to me.

 

[jsfitz54]

Sounds like PSU to me.

Would be the first thing to swap out and try without total dissasembly.

If not that, then I would lean towards mobo due to fact of cpu led flashing.

But if psu went out, did it take any other parts with it? Such as cpu.

I don't understand why his 4+4pin does not fit...modern board and psu?

 

[JrRacinFan]

If not that, then I would lean towards mobo due to fact of cpu led flashing.

CPU led flashing could just be the power circuitry kickin out due to a duff PSU.

 

[Peacekeeper]

I have tried disconnecting everything from the motherboard except the cpu and psu, I have also tried starting it without the CPU connected and cleared the CMOS. All this I've tried with just one stick of RAM at a time and I have tested both sticks. Each time it does the same thing - CPU fan spins once the red LED flashs once then nothing.

 

[jsfitz54]

Your going to need to borrow a PSU to test your rig.

You don't need a 750w one to get the board to boot; a good 450-500w one should work, so if you have a friend or family member that will let you try theirs...

Remember your not connecting any drives and your working with a stripped down setup, so thats why 750w is not needed.


If you get a clean boot, put the new bios 1102 on a flash drive and update the board through the UEFI settings. Eazy to do and may save you additional problems when you get back to normal operations.

You must have the mobo at "default" settings prior to bios flash.

Leave the boot drive disconnected until board is stable then reinstall HD and Optical and restart upgrade to the 64bit version.

 

[TheMailMan78]

Yeah sounds like a bum PSU right now.

 

[Peacekeeper]

I have an old PSU from the computer I dismantled yesterday [I was going to use the case but realised halfway through that it was a bespoke shape and my motherboard wouldn't fit so I had to use a different one]. I just checked and it's only 375W though and it has a 6pin plug rather than a 4/4+4 pin one. I also have a 500W one here but it's well over a decade old is that usable in your opinion?

 

[TheMailMan78]

I have an old PSU from the computer I dismantled yesterday [I was going to use the case but realised halfway through that it was a bespoke shape and my motherboard wouldn't fit so I had to use a different one]. I just checked and it's only 375W though and it has a 6pin plug rather than a 4/4+4 pin one. I also have a 500W one here but it's well over a decade old is that usable in your opinion?

Try the 500w if the plugs work.

 

[JrRacinFan]

Just mentioning it, I myself was getting a warm boot issue at one point on my M5A97 when I had it, to where I could power on/shutdown in windows ok, but restarts it would hang and give a no post until i pulled power for 2-3mins. Watch for that because it was indication of an unstable combination of IMC NB frequency/DDR3 timings.

So if you find yourself not being able to post but powering on, do a clear cmos to remove any overclock you have done on the chip and re-clock but leave dram speed alone.

 

[TheMailMan78]

Just mentioning it, I myself was getting a warm boot issue at one point on my M5A97 when I had it, to where I could power on/shutdown in windows ok, but restarts it would hang and give a no post until i pulled power for 2-3mins. Watch for that because it was indication of an unstable combination of IMC NB frequency/DDR3 timings.

So if you find yourself not being able to post but powering on, do a clear cmos to remove any overclock you have done on the chip and re-clock but leave dram speed alone.

Hes already running stock.

 

[JrRacinFan]

Hes already running stock.

I understand that, was throwing it out there for future reference.

 

[Peacekeeper]

Just tested the computer with everything unplugged again but this time using an alternate PSU and I received the same feedback from the computer and unresponsive start up.

Though, the power plug from the old PSU I'm testing with is missing some additional point on it as shown below, I'm not sure how relevant that is though:

Plug

 

[JrRacinFan]

Just double checking, did you remember to connect the 4/8 pin CPU Aux power? The +4 on the main ATX shouldn't matter much.