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Coolants

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#1
I take time to read the labels, the "Thermaltake UV Sensitive High Performance Coolant"
has the same ingredients as "Prestone 50/50 premix"

Ingredients:
Water
Propylene Glycol
Ethylene diamine tetra acetate
And have the anti-corrosion properties too.

With the difference of ~ pigments.

Hey, guys just take time and check (read). Don't need special (magic) solution or plain water.

This Really surprise me!!!! :eek:
..
 
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#3
mayhem

Read this:
"Mayhem XT-1 Coolant is a High Efficiency, Non-Toxic, Low Viscosity coolant based on Ethylene Glycol. "
Bla, bla, bla. . . . .

"Ethylene Glycol." is the primary ingredient in Automotive Coolant.
..
.
.
 
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#4
Here we go.

1) Do not multi-post. There is an edit button, that you should use. This is a courtesy to the moderators, and seen as basic etiquette on this forum.
2) Coolants are based upon fluids that prevent corrosion, transfer heat well, and don't degrade operational parts. As the radiator in you car has the same job as the radiator on your computer it makes sense that they are the same chemically.
3) Angry posting is what people see when you highlight and bold words. A coherent point is required if you want rage to be anything more than a tantrum.

4) Barring anything else, engine coolant is designed to have a higher change in temperature than that present in a liquid cooler. This means they can have more glycol, despite the fact that it is a poorer thermal conductor than water. Use poorer conductors at your own risk in a heat sinking system.
 

erocker

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#5
I can't say that I've seen a water cooling loop every get hot enough for coolant to be relevant. I could see it being used as an antifreeze to keep the loop from freezing up if you're doing that sort of thing.
 

MxPhenom 216

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#7

cdawall

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#8
I can't say that I've seen a water cooling loop every get hot enough for coolant to be relevant. I could see it being used as an antifreeze to keep the loop from freezing up if you're doing that sort of thing.
I have seen one get hot enough (wile.e's). I like running coolant for the anti-fungal side and the low temp side is nice as well. :laugh:
 
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#9
While I don't use it in my PC loops, I do have a lot of experience with "anti-freeze" or "coolant" in actual automotive settings (road course racing, recreational and competitive as well as modifying BMW's).

It does not function just to prevent boiling of water (the fact that the loop is pressurized is a big factor in why it doesn't boil) or its freezing, it also serves as a very strong corrosion inhibitor, completely prevents any kind of growth, and is a very good lubricant for seals and the pump.

That said, it also DECREASES THE COOLING EFFICIENCY of water. Due to the fact that, in the event of a crash and leak, it doesn't evaporate and is a PITA to clean, it's banned from most racing circuits.
Most of us have always used just distilled water anyway, but once you're racing in events like the GT ALMS, you quickly realize that the very, very heavy, sustained loading of the entire car let alone the engine, necessitates a more efficient solution. That's where products like Redline Water Wetter come in. The fact is, under 12hr and 24hr endurance racing, I've seen water temps drop as much as 28*F thanks to Water Wetter, and consequently the oil temps dropped 11*F, the intake air charge dropped 19*F, the Lysholm twin-screw blower (I run @ 24.5 PSI for races where I'm allowed to use 109-111oct fuel) compressor output temp was 12*F lower, and the air exiting the Front Mount Intercooler (triple-thick core) went from 133*F to 105*F thanks to the complete elimination of heat soak in the engine bay. Lap times dropped from ~1:44.22 avg to ~1:38.56 on average, and I went from a 13th place start to a Podium finish. Dyno'd my car after the race, as usual, for comparison against the pre-race dyno....and it went from 538.9rwhp to 581.1rwhp strapped down, although accounting for the temp difference as it was 83F for the Before and 71F for the After, the overall horsepower difference was still over 30hp at the rear wheels, it remained flatter from the 6krpm to 9.5krpm sweet zone, and the torque curve began about 250rpm earlier at just 1085rpm and peaked faster hitting max at ~1455rpm and holding all 498.8lb-ft of torque at the rear wheels up through 5090rpm (this was a '05 330Ci ZHP fully race prepped; 2613lb total weight, custom fenders to fit 18x10.5" front and 18x11" rear wheels with 275(F) and 295(R) section width tires; straight cut six-speed, sintered iron/kevlar-cerametallic clutch and 6.8lb flywheel; fully built M54B30 with custom Lysholm twin-screw blower and front-mount intercooler; Quaife many-clutch variable locking limited slip diff; stripped interior with 19-point welded custom chromoly cage and a pair of Kevlar/Carbon Fiber Recaro race buckets with 6 to 9 point harness supports)...


IN A COMPUTER....

We're talking temps that are, in a good loop, no more than 3-7C above ambient, and in many loops (we'll say, "not so well planned out" or "insufficient radiator capacity" loops), it's between 10-20C above ambient. That's as hot as it gets! Far cry from 240C !!!!

You're FAR, FAR, FAR better off using:
1) Distilled Water from the Grocery Store
2) PT-Nuke/PT-Nuke PHN/Mayhem's XT1 in the proscribed quantity
3) Good tubing (currently only Primochill Advanced LRT is proving to be free of any plasticizer)
4) THE SAME METALS!!!

The worst things you can do are mixing metals, or putting junk in your loop haphazardly. I always recommend against Nickel Plated blocks (especially now that MIPS is out of business; theirs and Heatkiller's are the only ones I've never once seen an issue with; have had so many issues with EK that I simply don't buy from them nor would I ever recommend that you do), against using a Silver "Kill Coil" instead of or with a Biocide (especially if there's anything more than just copper/brass in your loop!) because not only is it less effective but it just adds an even greater Galvanic Index delta between metals, and I always recommend Bitspower and Monsoon fittings as never once have I seen them fail or lose their plating. Swiftech, EK, and Phobya fittings have all corroded easily, with random fittings from the first two companies actually being painted instead of anodized or electroplated and causing a huge mess.


The absolute BEST advice I can give you: DO NOT GET INTO WATER COOLING UNLESS YOU HAVE THE MONEY TO AFFORD TO DO IT RIGHT!! Otherwise, if you "cheap out", it will always end up costing you far more than if you just spent the extra up front for quality parts.
(BTW, the absolute best blocks come from Swiftech, XSPC, and Koolance for CPU's, and Heatkiller and Aquacomputer for GPU's; no competition, and stay away from EK! Aside from the many, many other issues, I lost TWO R7970 Lightning's to TWO SEPARATE EK Blocks that each had a different but equally fatal manufacturing defect as well as multiple "QC - Passed" stickers! EK never once responded to my emails, calls, or anything; thankfully, MSI replaced the 7970 Lightning's with 680 Lightning's so I could get the Aquacomputer Full-Coverage blocks, which are absolutely perfect; the Heatkiller Hole Edition 680 blocks on my 670 FTW 2Gb cards are the best I've used, weighing almost 2kg and made almost entirely from a single piece of milled copper)
 
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#10
While I don't use it in my PC loops, I do have a lot of experience with "anti-freeze" or "coolant" in actual automotive settings (road course racing, recreational and competitive as well as modifying BMW's).

It does not function just to prevent boiling of water (the fact that the loop is pressurized is a big factor in why it doesn't boil) or its freezing, it also serves as a very strong corrosion inhibitor, completely prevents any kind of growth, and is a very good lubricant for seals and the pump.

That said, it also DECREASES THE COOLING EFFICIENCY of water. Due to the fact that, in the event of a crash and leak, it doesn't evaporate and is a PITA to clean, it's banned from most racing circuits.
Most of us have always used just distilled water anyway, but once you're racing in events like the GT ALMS, you quickly realize that the very, very heavy, sustained loading of the entire car let alone the engine, necessitates a more efficient solution. That's where products like Redline Water Wetter come in. The fact is, under 12hr and 24hr endurance racing, I've seen water temps drop as much as 28*F thanks to Water Wetter, and consequently the oil temps dropped 11*F, the intake air charge dropped 19*F, the Lysholm twin-screw blower (I run @ 24.5 PSI for races where I'm allowed to use 109-111oct fuel) compressor output temp was 12*F lower, and the air exiting the Front Mount Intercooler (triple-thick core) went from 133*F to 105*F thanks to the complete elimination of heat soak in the engine bay. Lap times dropped from ~1:44.22 avg to ~1:38.56 on average, and I went from a 13th place start to a Podium finish. Dyno'd my car after the race, as usual, for comparison against the pre-race dyno....and it went from 538.9rwhp to 581.1rwhp strapped down, although accounting for the temp difference as it was 83F for the Before and 71F for the After, the overall horsepower difference was still over 30hp at the rear wheels, it remained flatter from the 6krpm to 9.5krpm sweet zone, and the torque curve began about 250rpm earlier at just 1085rpm and peaked faster hitting max at ~1455rpm and holding all 498.8lb-ft of torque at the rear wheels up through 5090rpm (this was a '05 330Ci ZHP fully race prepped; 2613lb total weight, custom fenders to fit 18x10.5" front and 18x11" rear wheels with 275(F) and 295(R) section width tires; straight cut six-speed, sintered iron/kevlar-cerametallic clutch and 6.8lb flywheel; fully built M54B30 with custom Lysholm twin-screw blower and front-mount intercooler; Quaife many-clutch variable locking limited slip diff; stripped interior with 19-point welded custom chromoly cage and a pair of Kevlar/Carbon Fiber Recaro race buckets with 6 to 9 point harness supports)...


IN A COMPUTER....

We're talking temps that are, in a good loop, no more than 3-7C above ambient, and in many loops (we'll say, "not so well planned out" or "insufficient radiator capacity" loops), it's between 10-20C above ambient. That's as hot as it gets! Far cry from 240C !!!!

You're FAR, FAR, FAR better off using:
1) Distilled Water from the Grocery Store
2) PT-Nuke/PT-Nuke PHN/Mayhem's XT1 in the proscribed quantity
3) Good tubing (currently only Primochill Advanced LRT is proving to be free of any plasticizer)
4) THE SAME METALS!!!

The worst things you can do are mixing metals, or putting junk in your loop haphazardly. I always recommend against Nickel Plated blocks (especially now that MIPS is out of business; theirs and Heatkiller's are the only ones I've never once seen an issue with; have had so many issues with EK that I simply don't buy from them nor would I ever recommend that you do), against using a Silver "Kill Coil" instead of or with a Biocide (especially if there's anything more than just copper/brass in your loop!) because not only is it less effective but it just adds an even greater Galvanic Index delta between metals, and I always recommend Bitspower and Monsoon fittings as never once have I seen them fail or lose their plating. Swiftech, EK, and Phobya fittings have all corroded easily, with random fittings from the first two companies actually being painted instead of anodized or electroplated and causing a huge mess.


The absolute BEST advice I can give you: DO NOT GET INTO WATER COOLING UNLESS YOU HAVE THE MONEY TO AFFORD TO DO IT RIGHT!! Otherwise, if you "cheap out", it will always end up costing you far more than if you just spent the extra up front for quality parts.
(BTW, the absolute best blocks come from Swiftech, XSPC, and Koolance for CPU's, and Heatkiller and Aquacomputer for GPU's; no competition, and stay away from EK! Aside from the many, many other issues, I lost TWO R7970 Lightning's to TWO SEPARATE EK Blocks that each had a different but equally fatal manufacturing defect as well as multiple "QC - Passed" stickers! EK never once responded to my emails, calls, or anything; thankfully, MSI replaced the 7970 Lightning's with 680 Lightning's so I could get the Aquacomputer Full-Coverage blocks, which are absolutely perfect; the Heatkiller Hole Edition 680 blocks on my 670 FTW 2Gb cards are the best I've used, weighing almost 2kg and made almost entirely from a single piece of milled copper)

Really apprec. your time writing this nice post, I learn alot about water cooling.

In your experience, What is the best Pump and radiator??

Thanks, Peace!!!
 
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#11
Built

I'm in the process of bild my system and I'm searching as much info I can about water cooling.

On-hand:

i7 3770K
Asus Maximus V Formula
G. Skill 16gb (2x8gb) 2400ghz
Samsung 840 pro 128gb
EVGA Superclocked 780 3gb (non-ACX) (no searching for water cooling here)
OZC 1000w gold
Cases: HAF 932 (blue led)

Usage: Gaming 45% / Multimedia, Internet, etc. 55%
Goal: Oveclock between 4.2gh - 4.5gh

Now I searching for a water Cooling, reliable.!! Some guys recomend me a Corsair H100i or
Cooler Master Eisberg 240L Prestige. But are too mixed opinions about (pro/con).

Now I'm searching about Custom loops. (Fans, Rads, Fitting, Tubing, Pumps, Coolants)

I have three more questionns,
1- What are the best fans w/LED for Radiator?
2- It's enough a molex/pin fan splitter (distribution block) or I need a fan controller??
3- Do I need a dual or triple radiator for my system (above detail)


Thanks,
Peace!!
 
Last edited: