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Copper anti seize grease as thermal paste?

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I bought a quarter pound of the stuff for a tune up for 8 bucks. While my friend was putting it on my plugs, it got me thinking, thermal paste applications. So I tried it, and why not? Copper dust in a lubricating grease that's good all the way up to 982c, so copper for thermal, great to keep it all together.

Right now I'm happy to report I went from around 52c-58c with my Amd spire max, and 3600x, to now at 42c-45c. I bought a noctua cooler that needs the am4 adapters to fit it to my 3600x, and will report back, maybe some pictures, if it held up for the week is been applied, and running 24/7. I will also be trying it on my 5700xt I have coming as well. When I applied it, it was like applying liquid metal, took hardly any to coat my cpu, much smaller amount then my Arctic MX4 to coat it all with it's copper goodness.

If you decide to try just keep in mind, that like liquid metal thermal it will conduct electricity, so be careful with it, and at 8 buck a quarter pound, and as liberal that is needed, I have a lifetime supply of it
 

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eidairaman1

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I bought a quarter pound of the stuff for a tube up for 8 bucks. While my friend was putting it on my plugs, it got me thinking, thermal paste applications. So I tried it, and why not? Copper dust in a lubricating grease that's good all the way up to 982c, so copper for thermal, great to keep it all together.

Right now I'm happy to report I went from around 52c-58c with my Amd spire max, and 3600x, to now at 42c-45c. I bought a noctua cooler that needs the am4 adapters to fit it to my 3600x, and will report back, maybe some pictures, if it held up for the week is been applied, and running 24/7. I will also be trying it on my 5700xt I have coming as well. When I applied it, it was like applying liquid metal, took hardly any to coat my cpu, much smaller amount then my Arctic MX4 to coat it all with it's copper goodness.

If you decide to try just keep in mind, that like liquid metal thermal it will conduct electricity, so be careful with it, and at 8 buck a quarter pound, and as liberal that is needed, I have a lifetime supply of it
Hope it doesnt creep off onto other parts and short out stuff.
 
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I will know in 2 days, or before, but there was sooo little of it needing to be used, there was no ooze at all when needing to apply the heatsink on, unlike other paste I have used. It is really, really, really thin, and I thought of that as well, but I dont see how at all it will get out from under it. But if I am wrong, I guess it will be time to update to a x570 mobo, and a 3900x :O :D
 
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As long as you watch your temperatures, it should be all good.

Kyle used Cheese for a test, and didn't kill anything awhile back, so it shouldn't fail suddenly.

I've thought of this, but never gone thru with it; report back in a week, I'm interested. :)
 
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Thermal paste is made up of things with properties for heat transfer, anti-seize is not. It's already been tested quite a bit already.
 
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If you know where I can see tests done with this stuff I'd love to read it, only because my temps have gone down about ten degrees using the copper variant of it, but would love to read the tests done on it for my own curiosity. But I will be testing my 5700xt at stock with the oem goop, then trying this considering how hot that GPU gets on that card.

And I would have too think this has some thermal capabilities to it due to needing the plugs to transfer is heat into the heads water jacket that's built in to cool the plugs off. Also back in the day, 90's, I did lots of working on Ford escorts with electronic ignition, that used electrolytic grease, kinda like this, to transfer the heat from it into the distributor, which I have tested as well, but pretty much liquefied under the heat sink. Since this has a working temp up to almost 900c, and a CPU gets to around 80ish c it shouldn't turn to liquid. I have my case sitting on its side ATM so if it does, it won't come out from under the sink. But I will report back, with pictures how it looks when my other parts show up, or dies in that time. I have my bios set up to shut it all down at 85c, but I just checked it, and it's still at the same temps as it was when I did it 5 days ago.
 
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No, as it heats it becomes liquid. Its a grease

" extremely high temperatures can cause lubrication problems due to thinning"
 
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Thermal paste is made for its purpose as is anti-seize. I'm sure it'll work, but with things like petroleum distillate and mineral oi, for how long? High probability of that stuff leaking out, burning up, evaporating, etc. There's thermal pastes that last many years and only needs one application. Seems to be just as cost effective and convenient using the proper product.

As you can see, anti-seize has been tried many many times with varying results.
 
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I've used PermaTex Silver anti seize for over 10 years off and on, usually for just a few weeks at a time.
It's about same as TG4 ect.
Although it is fairly good at keeping temp in check, wasn't really a big deal.
Good for an "in between" usage when out of real TIM
 
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On a expensive graphics card I wouldn't use anything other the then approved paste. An old mechanic use to tell me "You think you are smarter them the man who designed it?"
 
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The problem of using anti seize as thermal paste won't be its thermal conductivity, but rather its electrical conductivity, there is a risk that it might liquify at certain circumstances and cause shortage
 

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The problem of using anti seize as thermal paste won't be its thermal conductivity, but rather its electrical conductivity, there is a risk that it might liquify at certain circumstances and cause shortage
The other issue I see is actually the opposite of that. The stuff dries out pretty quickly. I left the top off my bottle for a few days when I forgot to close it after using it, and it had gotten so thick I just had to throw the whole thing out.
 

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Hmmm....seems many are against the OP's idea/suggestion and in providing personal experience sharing how he applied and tested it's affects good or bad. I applaud the OP for having the idea, taking any precautions he could think of and sharing the results.

A little refresher for the naysayers...There are are a number of thermal pastes that are electrically conductive such as Coollaboratory Products. The extreme PC enthusiasts wouldn't second guess delidding a non-soldered IHS (Integrated Heat Spreader) from the CPU die and applying a liquid metal based TIM (Thermal Interface Material) to the silicon chip and replacing the IHS back in place to get lower temps and higher over-clocks. (note: I have done this myself "Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra" on a I7-4790K CPU a few years ago and am still using same now without issue and neither have touched it since then).

The paste the OP is using is commonly known as "anti-seize", at least in the States. Here's a quick read...CRC Industries. The ingredients are similar to what's in some metal based TIM's so there is no reason why it wouldn't work. As the OP has noted he applied it pretty much in the same manner as directions would state for a liquid metal based TIM.

I wouldn't hesitate to use it should there be a time I have a PC apart (a heat-sink removed) doing repairs and/or cleaning and I don't have any good TIM on hand and have some ordered waiting on delivery. Especially if it also needs a fresh OS install and setup. The PC can be all fixed up in use and only require a few minutes changing out the TIM when it arrives.

The best use for it in my work is on exhaust system bolts and fasteners on any engine to allow dis-assembly at a later date for whatever repairs needed without the bolts and fasteners breaking creating more work and time to make a repair. As the OP started the post, the threads on engine spark-plugs need it as well especially with so many aluminum based engines out now. The threaded base of spark-plugs are steel and the engine cylinder head that it threads into is usually aluminum these days so without a lasting lubricant on the threads the aluminum parts can be damaged (known as thread galling or stripping) in removing the spark-plug incurring expensive repairs to the cylinder head.

I'm a 40+ years mostly "hands-on self-taught" mechanic/technician and I am still doing it. I'm not afraid to tackle anything I come across that doesn't function as it should. My interests are in anything mechanical to electrical and everywhere in between. Every manufacturer designs their parts differently even their own one model to the next to eliminate interchangeability. They keep trying to make it cheaper and cheaper, therefore it usually becomes poorly designed. Of course it's patented too so know one else can copy a potential excellent design. My giving credit to some designs that are very good. I can say "There are a lot of stupid things someone else has designed that I have either modified or replaced with something different altogether to make the item I'm trying to repair work as it should or better".

The other issue I see is actually the opposite of that. The stuff dries out pretty quickly. I left the top off my bottle for a few days when I forgot to close it after using it, and it had gotten so thick I just had to throw the whole thing out.
Yes the oils will dry out exposed to air but no need to throw it out, just pour a little bit of motor oil in the bottle (tablespoon) and stir it up. Good as new.

As far as using it for TIM it will eventually dry out but it's mostly the metal based ingredients that conduct the heat and will still be there, but still, if one see's cpu temps starting to run a little higher than normal just do a clean and re-apply of new TIM. There are a lot of cheap non-metal TIM's that dry out as well and need occasional re-apply.
 
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A guy I know once asked me something similar, wanted to use graphite chain lube as a long-term fix for a laptop that was overheating. I told him absolutely not for the reasons everyone's already mentioned here.
I wouldn't trust it to not get everywhere and short something important out. Interesting that it works but so do other unconventional thermal paste materials.

That said, I'd be curious to see a comparison.
 
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I bought a quarter pound of the stuff for a tune up for 8 bucks. While my friend was putting it on my plugs, it got me thinking, thermal paste applications. So I tried it, and why not? Copper dust in a lubricating grease that's good all the way up to 982c, so copper for thermal, great to keep it all together.

Right now I'm happy to report I went from around 52c-58c with my Amd spire max, and 3600x, to now at 42c-45c. I bought a noctua cooler that needs the am4 adapters to fit it to my 3600x, and will report back, maybe some pictures, if it held up for the week is been applied, and running 24/7. I will also be trying it on my 5700xt I have coming as well. When I applied it, it was like applying liquid metal, took hardly any to coat my cpu, much smaller amount then my Arctic MX4 to coat it all with it's copper goodness.

If you decide to try just keep in mind, that like liquid metal thermal it will conduct electricity, so be careful with it, and at 8 buck a quarter pound, and as liberal that is needed, I have a lifetime supply of it
Seems solid to me! Going to have to try this..

That said, I'd be curious to see a comparison.
So would I!
 
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The other issue I see is actually the opposite of that. The stuff dries out pretty quickly. I left the top off my bottle for a few days when I forgot to close it after using it, and it had gotten so thick I just had to throw the whole thing out.
*gasps* I do hope you are treating my baby NH-D14 well and not poisoning her with this non-sense. She usually likes the Noctua paste, but sometimes I found her quite enjoying some Arctic MX-4 when I wasn't looking... :love:
 
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I can't imagine that trying to remove a grease-based product from computer parts would be much fun. Not that removing thermal paste is very enjoyable to begin with, but lubricating grease can be pretty nasty and smears on everything (that's what it's supposed to do). Probably worth reading the Kopr-Kote MSDS and data sheet to see what's actually in it.
 
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This topic and the oppositional responses remind me a little bit of the situation with oil injected two stroke jet skis of the late 90s and early 2000s.

Dealers, mechanics and even the jet ski itself explicitly state you should never put any other oil in your engine other than the name brand, dealer only stuff.

Even knowledgeable riders religiously put the over priced, dealer only oil in their boats. Well it turns out after owning many a jet ski, I can say without a doubt there is no risk to NOT running the name brand stuff. It's just cash cow gimmick that lot's of folks buy into because it makes them feel "safe".

Not saying this stuff is a clear winner, but we should at least let it play out and let the guy get more data before we reach a conclusion.

I can't imagine that trying to remove a grease-based product from computer parts would be much fun. Not that removing thermal paste is very enjoyable to begin with, but lubricating grease can be pretty nasty and smears on everything (that's what it's supposed to do). Probably worth reading the Kopr-Kote MSDS and data sheet to see what's actually in it.
You could easily remove it with rubbing alcohol just like you do with standard heat sink paste. No difference, most likely.
 
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On a expensive graphics card I wouldn't use anything other the then approved paste. An old mechanic use to tell me "You think you are smarter them the man who designed it?"
So so many do lol.
 
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Good point!
In every other thread half the people think they know better with only the specs or rumours about specs in mind never mind actual products.

But to be fair to enthusiasts, without there efforts would companies really push as hard as they do for us consumer's, probably not , and we here ,well some here do KNOW how to improve the performance above what the designers passed us.

Tim being one of the most important. And easiest thing to play around with.

Go liquid metal, do it carefully, correctly and then forget about it for a year, ad-hoc is just poorly preparing so you can fail later.
Why do more work than necessary.

Conduconaught or similar, the end. ..
 
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Interesting read, must say when i saw it appear in the recent threads i thought i was stil on the Ford forums.
 
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That is the right anti-seize to use on 3V plugs, so they'll come out without breaking, lol.
 
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