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Copper anti seize grease as thermal paste?

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I mean it can be any copper anti seize grease right. I have a rasberry pi with a case that acts as a heatsink with some larger heatsinks attatched so this stuff might be perfect to attatch the heatsinks to the case.
 
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I mean it can be any copper anti seize grease right. I have a rasberry pi with a case that acts as a heatsink with some larger heatsinks attatched so this stuff might be perfect to attatch the heatsinks to the case.
Its electrically conductive and it thins out under (very high) heat so keep that in mind.
 
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Just something to be aware of is the oil separation (ASTM D-6184), which can be an issue where oil can weep from grease products at elevated temperatures. It's not really an issue on farm machinery that are usually greasy anyway, but I'd keep an eye on it with computer gear. Could be argued that a 3% loss by volume at 100C from a little smear of anti-seize would be next to nothing, but still it's a real thing. Also want to make sure that it doesn't do any weird staining on the IHS that could become a problem when you go to resell your CPU. But hey, if those things aren't an issue then the stuff seems to be alright.
That's very unlikely to happen with this stuff as it's formulated to very high temp exposure.

I mean it can be any copper anti seize grease right. I have a rasberry pi with a case that acts as a heatsink with some larger heatsinks attatched so this stuff might be perfect to attatch the heatsinks to the case.
Yes, that would likely work very well.

Its electrically conductive and it thins out under (very high) heat so keep that in mind.
No computing device will get hot enough to cause "thinning".

I'm going to conduct a test with this stuff for a month on one of my personal systems. I am interested in the semi-long-term results. If things go well, a longer test might be indicated.
 
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dorsetknob

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unlikely to happen with this stuff as it's formulated to very high temp exposure.
Considering Copper anti sieze grease is formulated for general Motor Trade use
its interesting to see it used "on CPU's"

If you have ever Replaced your Car/truck/ motorcycle Disk pads and you have Dolloped the Copperslip ( a Brand name ) on the Back of the pads your Realize how Hot those pads get slowing you down and that grease sticks to the back of those pads.

Bonus as its copper based and not liq Metal it wont eat your Ali heatsink

Cooler master do a Copper based ( well its Copper coloured ) TIM
 
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I'm going to conduct a test with this stuff for a month on one of my personal systems. I am interested in the semi-long-term results. If things go well, a longer test might be indicated.
It's a lubricant, and has a heat conductivity of a low-end paste. I assume the only long-term consequence is going to be "easy-to-remove heatsink" :D :D :D
BTW, that stuff looks awfully similar to cheap Polish copper TIM (also conductive), only with slightly larger particles. I'm sure the only difference between anti-seize and proper copper TIM is just the particle size and concentration in suspension. Even Coollaboratory Liquid Copper essentially is just a mix of silicone and nano-particles of copper.
 
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I tried this due to almost running out of my Arctic MX4 2019, and Arctic ceramic tim because I ALWAYS keep reapplying my tim very often, on everything, including my motherboard heat sinks, for I change that stuff the moment I get a new board, if its not using pads, I never use what comes on a new heat sink, rubbing alcohol and rag to the rescue, and as soon as I get a new video card, I remove the heat sink and put on much better tim I have on hand to replace that crappy stuff they use. So I will report back on this if my temps change sooner, and I will also take pictures in 5-6 months time, seeing what the paste has turned into, or not into, for I am very curious. And since this stuff works a little better then both my Arctic tim's I own, and the cost is SOOOOOOOOOOO much cheaper, and get SOOOOOOOOO much more of this stuff, that if it passes what Ill be putting my cpu and gpu, which as mentioned I have a new 5700xt coming soon, and will be testing its heat stock, and then when I remove the oem paste with this stuff, with pictures, I am not afraid at all in using this stuff from this point forward as my new tim ;)

Not sure if you're aware, but the GD900 thermal paste from Aliexpress is good if you want decent bulk thermal paste for cheap. It's like $3 for a 30g syringe. I switched over from Arctic MX-5 ($8 for 3.5g) and have found it to be pretty similar in performance. I've been using it for a year now and it's been great.

That's very unlikely to happen with this stuff as it's formulated to very high temp exposure.

Maybe. The autoignition temperature is only 260C, which is the point where it spontaneously combusts. It doesn't have to get that hot to start doing stuff like weeping oil (just check out the oil separation tests which happens at 100C) or changing viscosity. Unlikely yes, but not unheard of. It might be formulated for high temperatures but after working as an engineer I've taught myself to not pay any attention to that kind of marketing bullshit, even if it's from a company worth their salt. But if it lasts a few months with no issues then it'll probably be fine.
 
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Hmmm; unrelated, but I've just found out that NaK eats the nickel layer off copper waterblocks.

It's also too viscous to flow thru a standard water pump.

Anyone know a low-power version of a Hallam-style Sodium pump?

BTW, Water, as always, is great for removing NaK from waterblocks.

:)
 
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Nice results and a fun project! I'm curious as to how well it will hold up after a few months of abuse. I'm sure you are aware, but one of the bigger challenges of making thermal compound is the "pump-out effect" and also separation, from wikipedia:

The consistency of thermal grease makes it susceptible to failure mechanisms distinct from some other thermal interface materials. A common one is pump-out, which is the loss of thermal grease from between the die and the heat sink due to their differing rates of thermal expansion and contraction. Over a large number of power cycles, thermal grease gets pumped out from between the die and the heat sink and eventually causes degradation of thermal performance.[4]

Another issue with some compounds is the separation of the polymer and filler matrix components occurs under high temperatures. The loss of polymeric material can result in poor wettability, leading to increased thermal resistance.[4]


That's why some makers of high performance thermal compounds recommends that you replace the compound fairly often (once a year for instance), because there's a trade off you have to make when you make this stuff; long lasting, or high performance. That's also why the compound used between the CPU die and heat spreader on a CPU isn't performing so good, as it has to last for the entire lifespan of the CPU.

I recently serviced a 780ti which had not been re-gooped since it was bought, and upgraded with a water block and a high performance thermal compound (I suspect it was Gelid Extreme) back in 2013-14, and now 6-7 years later, there was absolutely no visible compound on the die itself, or the contact area of the block, only some on the sides. Shiny as brand new, wish I had a picture of it :)
 
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I assume the only long-term consequence is going to be "easy-to-remove heatsink" :D :D :D
Oh yeah, it was very easy. That's a point in it's favor in my book.
But if it lasts a few months with no issues then it'll probably be fine.
Nice results and a fun project! I'm curious as to how well it will hold up after a few months of abuse. I'm sure you are aware, but one of the bigger challenges of making thermal compound is the "pump-out effect" and also separation
And that is what I'm testing, to see what it does.
 
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Oh yeah, it was very easy. That's a point in it's favor in my book.

And that is what I'm testing, to see what it does.

You know, there's places online that sell empty syringe tubes to make application easier. Especially in the medical industry they manufacture them by the truckload. Luer slip tips (they have a pluggable tip) would be what you'd want I reckon. I looked them up and they have 10 x 50mL tubes for like $15. Saves having to deal with the applicator brush that comes with those things.
 
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You know, there's places online that sell empty syringe tubes to make application easier. Especially in the medical industry they manufacture them by the truckload. Luer slip tips (they have a pluggable tip) would be what you'd want I reckon. I looked them up and they have 10 x 50mL tubes for like $15. Saves having to deal with the applicator brush that comes with those things.
Nah. The 1oz tube makes for easy application.
 
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Ahhh ... this again.

Thermal paste is made up of things with properties for heat transfer, anti-seize is not. It's already been tested quite a bit already.
Yes it has. Can remember at least one person using it and was very upset how there was a hard brownish coating on their IHS that had to be removed with sandpaper. Probably deposits from the oils evaporating. Being one who has used these type products as intended use for decades will say that certainly does happen.

Paste should not make a 10c difference unless the first mount was bad to begin with.
My thought as well. I'd be more impressed if the results were an average over dozens of applications.

Show me temperature after 30 mins with Intel Burn Test.
Or after several days or weeks of use. According to the SDS shared in post #20, this product is at least 60% "Lubricating Greases" by weight. How thermally conductive are those? How about those organic salts listed? Reactionary with your metals? One reason they are there.
 
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Nah. The 1oz tube makes for easy application.

Suit yourself.

Ahhh ... this again.

Yes it has. Can remember at least one person using it and was very upset how there was a hard brownish coating on their IHS that had to be removed with sandpaper. Probably deposits from the oils evaporating. Being one who has used these type products as intended use for decades will say that certainly does happen.

My thought as well. I'd be more impressed if the results were an average over dozens of applications.

Or after several days or weeks of use. According to the SDS shared in post #20, this product is at least 60% "Lubricating Greases" by weight. How thermally conductive are those? How about those organic salts listed? Reactionary with your metals? One reason they are there.

There's plenty of reasons not to do it, but a lot of people like to do these kind of experiments for the kicks. I'd try it for myself but I use lanolin as general purpose anti-seize and don't have any copper stuff, so I'd need to buy some. Already got my thermal paste situation sorted out with the GD900 so I don't need it for that purpose either.
 
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Suit yourself.



There's plenty of reasons not to do it, but a lot of people like to do these kind of experiments for the kicks. I'd try it for myself but I use lanolin as general purpose anti-seize and don't have any copper stuff, so I'd need to buy some. Already got my thermal paste situation sorted out with the GD900 so I don't need it for that purpose either.
Yeah, for sure. All about trying things out. Was mentioning some possible side effects and shortcomings. Have three types of antiseize here depending on the metal used on but never considered using one as a TIM because of all the grease, and the comparatively low metal content.

Tried many things myself. Best was the water based 10,000 aluminum oxide polishing compound. Same ingredient in most ceramic based TIMs, including AS Ceramique. Determined that performed better since the particles were more randomized in size.

So who wants to try the 3M copper foil tape?

 
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I'll stick with the graphite pad I'm still using. The copper foil as a TIM is something worth trying.
 
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The copper foil as a TIM is something worth trying.
Back in a day I used to see those in laptops. Not so much now. I think the last time I've seen that in a 2012 Google Nexus tablet, and it didn't work very well.
That's only good for low-TDP chips, e.g. sub-15W, e.g. same application scope as thermal pads.
 
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Its electrically conductive and it thins out under (very high) heat so keep that in mind.
pretty vague there when you say very high heat, assuming you read the posted pdf, means over 950 degrees.
 
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... The copper foil as a TIM is something worth trying.

No, not really.

You would still want a interface material between and both surfaces, making it a shim.

The adhesive on it is electrically conductive, and not very thermally conductive.

it makes great electrical shielding for stuff, if you're making a Faraday cage.
 
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Another update, I tested again, this time with the 2500k that was intended for the system, Optiplex 390.
First test with MX4 and Intel Burn Test;
IMG_20200317_155922.jpg
The next was the copper grease and Intel Burn Test;
IMG_20200317_161720.jpg
These pictures are after a fresh boot. The metric to pay attention to is the max temps in the monitor window.

The differences in max temps were small, not enough to make a difference long term. Additionally, the IHS and Heatsink neither had any blemishing. So far this stuff is impressive!
 
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By way of an update, the copper grease is still going strong and is still keeping temps in the same good range they were after first being applied. I'm actually very impressed with this stuff. This includes my personal rig, which has a Xeon W3680 that regularly gets bumped to 4ghz for heavy tasks. Temps stay good even with the OC.
 
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any signs of it leaking out from underneath?
 
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any signs of it leaking out from underneath?
None. Not expecting it, to be fair. The stuff is very viscus and because it's designed for high temp environments, it shouldn't get runny at all given the operating temp in question. Not expecting it to dry out either, for the same reasons.
 
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I must say too that I am happy. Did my cpu and gpu with the stuff, and so far no leaking, like I have had with some cheaper paste I have used from china, and both looked like the day I applied it. So I put more on it and let it be for now again. And yeah, temps "may" be 1-2 degrees more, but considering how much I paid for all of this, just as long, like liquid metal, I apply it right, there isnt a chance I see of it messing anything up, or eat away at my heat sink, like liquid metal will do to certain sinks depending on what they are made from. So after me trying it, and a few others, and report the same findings I have seen, well worth it in my book, and with as much as I have, I wont need any for a very, very long time. Now I got to see after a year or so if it dries up like other stuff I have used in the past, for I really want to know about this next.
 
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I must say too that I am happy. Did my cpu and gpu with the stuff, and so far no leaking, like I have had with some cheaper paste I have used from china, and both looked like the day I applied it. So I put more on it and let it be for now again. And yeah, temps "may" be 1-2 degrees more, but considering how much I paid for all of this, just as long, like liquid metal, I apply it right, there isnt a chance I see of it messing anything up, or eat away at my heat sink, like liquid metal will do to certain sinks depending on what they are made from. So after me trying it, and a few others, and report the same findings I have seen, well worth it in my book, and with as much as I have, I wont need any for a very, very long time. Now I got to see after a year or so if it dries up like other stuff I have used in the past, for I really want to know about this next.
Yeah, I get the feeling this is going to be a long term thread. We'll have to come back in 6 months and again in a year.
 
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I must say too that I am happy. Did my cpu and gpu with the stuff, and so far no leaking, like I have had with some cheaper paste I have used from china, and both looked like the day I applied it. So I put more on it and let it be for now again. And yeah, temps "may" be 1-2 degrees more, but considering how much I paid for all of this, just as long, like liquid metal, I apply it right, there isnt a chance I see of it messing anything up, or eat away at my heat sink, like liquid metal will do to certain sinks depending on what they are made from. So after me trying it, and a few others, and report the same findings I have seen, well worth it in my book, and with as much as I have, I wont need any for a very, very long time. Now I got to see after a year or so if it dries up like other stuff I have used in the past, for I really want to know about this next.
looks nice but i feel you need to test it under high temp or high pressure to see how it will react. and i agree you need to see how it reacts to aluminum or copper too
 
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