Core i7: Now or Later?

[Solaris17]

I've had a 1600 in the closet for the longest. I really didn't want to use my 20amp line too soon but I will if I get another X2. My DMM is kinda old but I tested it several times & it never went above 782 in total. Maybe its time for a new DMM.

sorry i was talking about fit drawing more than I you sound about right. i just have a hard time specifying who im conversing or aiming tword when im on a roll.

 

[Fitseries3]

my PSU is running on 220v so yeah.... dedicated power pretty much.

oh and there ya go... my OCing secret is out.

 

[Solaris17]

my PSU is running on 220v so yeah.... dedicated power pretty much.

oh and there ya go... my OCing secret is out.

how are you running 220v on an american circuit? im pretty sure switching it on the back of the psu will break it.

 

[Megasty]

well then, that ends that and it happened to me aswell.

If that's the case, then that board could hav blew the procs just from being faulty from the start. Makes perfect sense. In my case, I probably damaged it by stepping on it but I'm sure it had some faults way b4 then since the lan ports didn't work either.

 

[Fitseries3]

it just pisses me off that every time i get something i really like it has to die. its total BS.

 

[Solaris17]

it just pisses me off that every time i get something i really like it has to die. its total BS.

we call that one early adopters tax. we pay the price we send the feedback. they fix the stuff that way 6 months from now the ppl that didnt buy it now dont need to go through it. welcome to what we do.

 

[Binge]

It's ok my DFI x58 is out for RMA as well. I wonder how many defects they've put out.

 

[Fitseries3]

im sure it wont end with my new board im getting this week. no one has one yet so im 100% sure something will die on it.

 

[FordGT90Concept]

my PSU is running on 220v so yeah.... dedicated power pretty much.

oh and there ya go... my OCing secret is out.

Heh, I knew it was 230v because Enermax Revolution 85+ 1250w is only 230v.

That might be the problem though. USA is 120v @ 60 Hz, and UK (where the 1250w version is offered) is 230v @ 50 Hz. If you don't have the equipment to perform the conversion (240v @ 60 Hz to 230v @ 50 Hz), it could cause all kinds of problems.

 

[Fitseries3]

you can run most psu's on 220v and they run more efficiently.

 

[FordGT90Concept]

230v @ 50 Hz, yes. I can't imagine they run well at 240v @ 60 Hz.

http://www.kropla.com/frequency.htm

On our island we have an electrical mains of 127 and 220 Volt and 50 Hertz.

Because we are a small island about 150.000 inhabitants and are located close to the USA, some electrical equipment sold is imported from the States, so made for a electrical mains of 110/120 volt 60 Hertz.

There is however a big problem with this and that is a lot of this equipment burns out after a while and this varies between a day or weeks or months or years.

 

[Binge]

There's no switch on the back of the PSUs I know fit uses. They auto sense the voltage and work on that setting. If he has an intermediate UPS that converts to 220v there would be no change in how his computer works.

 

[Solaris17]

There's no switch on the back of the PSUs I know fit uses. They auto sense the voltage and work on that setting. If he has an intermediate UPS that converts to 220v there would be no change in how his computer works.

thank you for enlighting me with your technical wisdom.

 

[FordGT90Concept]

The 1250w doesn't do auto switching because it's 220-240v only (marketed to Europe only).

http://www.enermax.com.tw/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_2&lv0=1&lv1=7&no=20

It says it should be able to do 50-60Hz but, knowing you do have a problem with components dying, I wouldn't rule out the fact that you're running the PSU in a state it is not intended to. It may be the cause of your problems.


Edit: 1725w is the maximum draw the 1250w can pull from the wall but so long as the temps are under 50C. The PSU probably wouldn't last very long at that pull either.

 

[Megasty]

how are you running 220v on an american circuit? im pretty sure switching it on the back of the psu will break it.

Nearly all PSU can run on a 220v, but it needs a special cord. A 110/120 line can only pull upto 1200W/hr but for PSUs that only 80-85% eff. So my poor 1600W monster would be stuck @ 1020W if I'm lucky. Commercial & large home electric dryers have to run on 220/240 since they pull upwards of 2000W/hr. That's the same line that we have specially routed to our rooms. Mini nuclear power plant anyone

There are UPS that convert 110/120 to 220/240 but that's not as eff as having a dedicated line.

 

[Binge]

thank you for enlighting me with your technical wisdom.

You're welcome here's more technical wisdom~

PC Power and Cooling 860W back end-

Enermax Revolution 1050W back end-

Courtesy of newegg. It would be impossible for him to force a 220V current without proper transformers. A dead LAN port would not be the result of abuse. I mean how much power does a gigabit LAN take? Why was it only the LAN port that died??? This is nothing like the horror stories on ASUStek forums my favorite being, "Help! Every time I boot a different RAM slot is dead!!!"

 

[FordGT90Concept]

Enermax Revolution 1050W back end-
...

Even Liberties automatically switch:

The Enermax Revolution 85+ 1250w is the only Enermax PSU that doesn't automatically switch (110v is completely unsupported).

Courtesy of newegg. It would be impossible for him to force a 220V current without proper transformers. A dead LAN port would not be the result of abuse. I mean how much power does a gigabit LAN take? Why was it only the LAN port that died??? This is nothing like the horror stories on ASUStek forums my favorite being, "Help! Every time I boot a different RAM slot is dead!!!"

Yes, it's odd but the component designed to take the least voltage is the most likely one to blow first. Considering most motherboards use Marvell chips for LAN, there is a connection there...

 

[Binge]

The 1250w doesn't do auto switching because it's 220-240v only (marketed to Europe only).

http://www.enermax.com.tw/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_2&lv0=1&lv1=7&no=20

It says it should be able to do 50-60Hz but, knowing you do have a problem with components dying, I wouldn't rule out the fact that you're running the PSU in a state it is not intended to. It may be the cause of your problems.


Edit: 1725w is the maximum draw the 1250w can pull from the wall but so long as the temps are under 50C. The PSU probably wouldn't last very long at that pull either.

He doesn't have a 1250W psu???

 

[FordGT90Concept]

just got a brand new psu between boards. the psu is STRONG as hell. enermax revolution85+ 1250watt.

DMM confirms voltage is perfect.

the whole damn setup is run from a power conditioner. no spikes ever. the power could go out and it'll run for a day solid before loosing power to the pc.

Right there. XD

 

[Solaris17]

You're welcome here's more technical wisdom~

PC Power and Cooling 860W back end-

Enermax Revolution 1050W back end-

Courtesy of newegg. It would be impossible for him to force a 220V current without proper transformers. A dead LAN port would not be the result of abuse. I mean how much power does a gigabit LAN take? Why was it only the LAN port that died??? This is nothing like the horror stories on ASUStek forums my favorite being, "Help! Every time I boot a different RAM slot is dead!!!"

i was simply implying that if IF he had done so and their was some type of power fluctuation with the PSU itself. not necissarily if he managed to switch it or not. if the PSU was spiking it could cause damage to the board. when he said he was running a 220v current i was naturally confused because in all things fit tells us i saw no mention of an adapter or some kind of power inverter which is why i raised the question "how?" forgive me for being ignoant and not going to newegg first and checking if it had the switch like i have seen on 99% of the units i have ever worked on.

 

[Fitseries3]

some do some dont.

depends on the manufacturer.

anyone know why i switched back to enermax? care to take a stab?

 

[PaulieG]

I'm sensing more than a little tension. I believe everyone is just trying to help and offering suggestions. Let's keep it civil boys, and remember why we are all here.

Binge, may I ask why you had to RMA your DFI? Mine's been good so fair. Only issue has been having to reset cmos a couple of times after shutting down the machine, on an OC I know was stable.

 

[Solaris17]

some do some dont.

depends on the manufacturer.

anyone know why i switched back to enermax? care to take a stab?

id take a wack at it. but alas i think we have successfully managed to bring this thread totally off course. this is infact a discussion on when what if not omg my board is broke hijack. to the OP my sincerest apologies.

 

[Fitseries3]

I'm sensing more than a little tension. I believe everyone is just trying to help and offering suggestions. Let's keep it civil boys, and remember why we are all here.

no, not tense at all. just going to reccomend not getting a pc power psu. go with an enermax.

and to recap...

evga x58 - mediocre
asus x58's - decent but end in death
foxconn x58's - ppl like how they look but the boards get discontinued after only a few short weeks.
biostar x58- looks good. oc's well. overall a decent board.
XFX x58- similar to evga. prolly the same.
gigabyte x58's - great overall but bios may be odd to some ppl. lots of models to choose from.
ecs x58 - havent heard anything good or bad.
msi's x58's - seen a few die pretty fast. havent heard of anyone else getting one.
DFI x58's - OC very well and well liked. color options not very good but who cares about color really? just because my lan port died im not gonna quit on them yet.

fits new x58- ??? no one knows. we will soon see.

 

[Megasty]

i was simply implying that if IF he had done so and their was some type of power fluctuation with the PSU itself. not necissarily if he managed to switch it or not. if the PSU was spiking it could cause damage to the board. when he said he was running a 220v current i was naturally confused because in all things fit tells us i saw no mention of an adapter or some kind of power inverter which is why i raised the question "how?" forgive me for being ignoant and not going to newegg first and checking if it had the switch like i have seen on 99% of the units i have ever worked on.

So wait a minute, that thing runs on a 220 from a 110 alone No wonder he blew up so many procs. Like you said, the back of that thing looks exactly like the junk we work with on a normal basis. You usually have to use two separate 110v outlets to get a 220. The stability of that thing must be rock solid to pull such a feat.

BTW, fit the asus I'm using has way too many features (useless features) to use in one lifetime. I only use the stupid joystick thing to switch between 3.6, 4.0, 4.2, & (4.4-if I want to kill it).