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CPU For The Sims 3 & 4 - AMD or Intel?

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Well, I messed around with it for a bit and according to CPU-Z, I'm at 3575.64 MHz. Not sure if that's good or bad. :laugh:
 
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Well that is 200Mhz above stock, so that is a good direction. Are you using a 17x multi or 18x and increasing the FSB? If you are I would leave the FSB alone (for now) so your memory doesn't start getting oc'd.
 

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With your cooler, I'd say get it to 3.8 with the multi and stay before 1.37v. Watch your temps and bench er' out.
 
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Well that is 200Mhz above stock, so that is a good direction. Are you using a 17x multi or 18x and increasing the FSB? If you are I would leave the FSB alone (for now) so your memory doesn't start getting oc'd.

According to CPU-Z, my multi is at 16.5. Maybe it's just me, but it almost "feels" like my rig is running slower with the overclock. Like, things seem like they take longer to load and Windows takes longer to boot. Could it just be my imagination? I'll play around with it a little more and see what happens.

Back on topic. I've narrowed my choices down to an i3-4360 or an i5-4460. I'm currently leaning more towards the i3 at the moment because this way I can get a better motherboard, plus with a Z97/H97 board, I can always upgrade to an i5 later. I'm curious about Z87 boards though. Is it possible they will work with Broadwell like the 9 series boards?
 
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Well unless you are OC'ing you should probably go with a cheap board.

Damn, this is 28 bucks at the moment. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...cm_re=1150_motherboard-_-13-130-731-_-Product

I'd get a g3258 and that board and overclock it... but the i3 for $130 is a good deal also.

EDIT: Apparently unlike my h81 board, the MSI I linked above requires an update to OC the g3258, so for simplicity the i3 would be the better choice.
 
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I would not OC on a board that has a 4 pin cpu power connector. The last guy I saw try that melted the whole 4 pin connector and had to soldier the wires to the board to make it work again (ok he might have went a little too far with his oc but still).

EDIT how is 3.5 GHz good when the turbo is 3.6 or 3.9GHz I don't remember
 
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2.66 GHz over 10 years is better than 3.5 GHz over 5 years.

Ten years has the potential to see 5 Intel 'Tocks', so you'd have to be one dedicated person to hold onto a CPU that long. Besides, you'd be better looking at something along the lines of 3.2GHz (20x160Mhz) to support your 1600MHz RAM.

Back on topic. I've narrowed my choices down to an i3-4360 or an i5-4460. I'm currently leaning more towards the i3 at the moment because this way I can get a better motherboard, plus with a Z97/H97 board...

Better go with the i5 and a cheaper board. Unless you're going to OC, a H97 should suffice.

I can always upgrade to an i5 later.

Dunno how many times I've heard people say this, but yet it never happens. People invest the money upfront to begin with and by the time they have saved the cash/are looking to upgrade, they just buy a new platform again. With Intel changing sockets after every tick-tock cycle, it makes more sense to just buy the newer platform rather than purchasing that high spec CPU you were saving for. Go the better CPU now; it'll last longer and help negate the need to upgrade to a Broadwell (most 'ticks' aren't worth while if you already have the 'tock').

I'm curious about Z87 boards though. Is it possible they will work with Broadwell like the 9 series boards?

Nope, but Z87 can still be a good choice, if you don't need stuff like SATA Express. But going back to my previous statement, get what suits your budget now, rather than looking at something like the future Broadwell; it's not going to be leaps and bounds faster than Haswell and when the time comes and you're thinking about finally getting that Broadwell CPU, you probably will see it isn't worth it and will just wait for the next platform. Only thing to look out for is BIOS support of the Haswell refresh (if you go that path), but that G1.Sniper you posted already supports them.

EDIT: If anything, you could get a Z87 board now and pair with an i5, then pick up a cheap Haswell refresh i7 in the future (as, like I said, Broadwell won't be much faster), then wait it our for Skylake or beyond.
 
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I would not OC on a board that has a 4 pin cpu power connector. The last guy I saw try that melted the whole 4 pin connector and had to soldier the wires to the board to make it work again (ok he might have went a little too far with his oc but still).

That doesn't sound good.

Don't know about this overclocking thing, honestly. Like, does that make me less of a PC gamer if I don't overclock?

@ Naito: In other words, you're basically saying get what I can afford now, rather than get a platform (i.e. 9 series) in which nobody really knows for sure if Broadwell will be bounds better than Haswell? Other than a few added features, that's pretty much the only other reason for the 9 series, isn't it?
 
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@ Naito: In other words, you're basically saying get what I can afford now, rather than get a platform (i.e. 9 series) in which nobody really knows for sure if Broadwell will be bounds better than Haswell? Other than a few added features, that's pretty much the only other reason for the 9 series, isn't it?

It's really down to if you will want to OC. A Z87 (if much cheaper than a Z97 board), is still a very decent board for overclocking, but if you aren't going to go the way of an K-series CPU now or in future, there is no point. If you are going to go an i5 (non-K) and will be content with that in the future, you'd best go a H97 and save some coin. Broadwell is a Tick (die-shrink), so will only bring minor improvements - hardly worth waiting for if looking at a budget/mid-range setup. Yes, pretty much the only reason for going the Wildcat Point (9-series) chipset is for future Broadwell support.

EDIT: Heck, you could even go a cheap Z77 board (if you don't mind only having two SATA 6GB/s and two less USB 3.0 ports), and find a cheap secondhand i5-3570/K (non-K still OCs up to 400Mhz higher on IB) on eBay (or elsewhere). Sure you won't be able to upgrade the CPU to a 1150 CPU, but with Haswell/Broadwell not being much faster and the potential for an overclocked beast, why would you want to?
 
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Thank you for that great information, Naito. I appreciate it. To be completely honest, I'm not really sure if my interest in OCing is great enough to warrant something like a Z97/87 board. Therefore, I did manage to find another board from the GI.Sniper series (the old black and green scheme), only this one has the B85 chipset:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128674

Unfortunately it's out of stock on newegg, but it sounds like a great little board.
 
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I linked you a board that's on sale for 28 bucks and you are trying to spend 4x the price anyway. Clearly I'm wasting my time here.
 
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I linked you a board that's on sale for 28 bucks and you are trying to spend 4x the price anyway. Clearly I'm wasting my time here.

Whoa, easy there. Let's not jump to conclusions. Hell, I haven't even decided what CPU I'm ultimately going with. I realize that doesn't matter, but still. I really do appreciate your suggestions. I'm just trying to get suggestions here. So take it easy will ya?
 

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Ten years has the potential to see 5 Intel 'Tocks', so you'd have to be one dedicated person to hold onto a CPU that long. Besides, you'd be better looking at something along the lines of 3.2GHz (20x160Mhz) to support your 1600MHz RAM.
I still have a functional Pentium 2, Athlon (original, Slot B I believe), and Opteron 180.

20% isn't worth the effort and Nehalem cores are hot-hot-HOT without overclocking.

Dunno how many times I've heard people say this, but yet it never happens. People invest the money upfront to begin with and by the time they have saved the cash/are looking to upgrade, they just buy a new platform again. With Intel changing sockets after every tick-tock cycle, it makes more sense to just buy the newer platform rather than purchasing that high spec CPU you were saving for. Go the better CPU now; it'll last longer and help negate the need to upgrade to a Broadwell (most 'ticks' aren't worth while if you already have the 'tock').
100% agreed. Adding cards/hard drives/solid state drives/RAM/optical disk drivers, sure; changing processors/motherboards, not so much. Let's also not forget that $40 now goes further than $40 towards a new system because the parts start at about $100. A little goes a long way on budget builds. I'd argue changing HSF from stock to aftermarket is also money that would be better spent on a better chip.


Thank you for that great information, Naito. I appreciate it. To be completely honest, I'm not really sure if my interest in OCing is great enough to warrant something like a Z97/87 board. Therefore, I did manage to find another board from the GI.Sniper series (the old black and green scheme), only this one has the B85 chipset:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128674

Unfortunately it's out of stock on newegg, but it sounds like a great little board.
Use this:
http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Z87-H87-H81-Q87-Q85-B85-What-is-the-difference-473/

+ Intel's ARK:
http://ark.intel.com/

To pick a processor/chipset. B85 is for budget business machines (the ones that are like $300-400 and they buy crates of them). I doubt you'll find any overclocking features on it. According to ARK, B85 is better than H81.
 
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Use this:
http://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Z87-H87-H81-Q87-Q85-B85-What-is-the-difference-473/

+ Intel's ARK:
http://ark.intel.com/

To pick a processor/chipset. B85 is for budget business machines (the ones that are like $300-400 and they buy crates of them). I doubt you'll find any overclocking features on it. According to ARK, B85 is better than H81.

Thanks for those links - the one from Puget was especially informative! Though, now I'm starting to wonder why GIGABYTE would make a supposedly "gaming" motherboard based on the B85 chipset when it's more of a business-oriented thing. I guess they must have wanted to diversify their product stack.
 

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Beats me. Seeing how it is out of stock and only 11 reviews, my guess is it did not sell well.
 
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Either that or people just didn't feel like typing a review, lol.

At any rate, would it be worth it to get an i5-4690 (non-K) despite its $224 price (on newegg) when the 4690K is only $209, even though I don't see myself overclocking? I think that price is pretty much a steal for that thing.
 

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Well of course if you can get a K cheaper there's no reason not too.
 

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Either that or people just didn't feel like typing a review, lol.

At any rate, would it be worth it to get an i5-4690 (non-K) despite its $224 price (on newegg) when the 4690K is only $209, even though I don't see myself overclocking? I think that price is pretty much a steal for that thing.
ARK comparison:
http://ark.intel.com/compare/80811,80810

If you click on the item on the left, it explains which each is. Non-K has vPro, SIPP, and Trusted Execution (all business technologies). It used to be that Non-K had VT-d (hardware virtualization) where K did not; that's a feature some people wish they had but didn't. You can look over what those three technologies are but I suspect you have no interest in them. When you add that to the fact K is cheaper, K seems like a no brainer in this case. ;)

FYI, as ARK shows, K models are supposed to be more expensive. Newegg must be having a sale on the K model.
 
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I still have a functional Pentium 2, Athlon (original, Slot B I believe), and Opteron 180.

I still had functioning P1, P2s, and Cyrix CPUs up to a few years ago, but they went the way of the recycling center.

20% isn't worth the effort and Nehalem cores are hot-hot-HOT without overclocking.

From my experience OC'ing anything from a i7-920 to a W3580 up to around the 4000MHz mark for 24/7 use, Nehalems, while not the most efficient, can be cooled relatively effectively even with a CM Hyper 212. 3.2GHz is a very modest, sensible clock that brings the 920 up to 960 speed with the added benefit of maximizing your RAMs potential (if you haven't already raised the BCLK and dropped the ratios. (I found Nehalem quite picky with RAM, though)). But hey, this is just my opinion and you can do as you please - if your rig meets your needs and you're happy with it, that's all that matters. :peace:

Therefore, I did manage to find another board from the GI.Sniper series (the old black and green scheme), only this one has the B85 chipset:

B85 boards are extremely barebone, you'd be best to stay with Q*7, H*7, or Z*7 chipsets, even if OC'ing is out of the question.

Non-K has vPro, SIPP, Trusted Execution. It used to be that Non-K had VT-d (hardware virtualization) where K did not; that's a feature some people wish they had but didn't. You can look over what those three technologies are but I suspect you have no interest in them. When you add that to the fact K is cheaper, K seems like a no brainer in this case.

This.
 

FordGT90Concept

"I go fast!1!11!1!"
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But hey, this is just my opinion and you can do as you please - if your rig meets your needs and you're happy with it, that's all that matters. :peace:
I'm saving up for Haswell-E or Skylake. Ye ol' Nehalem is getting long in the tooth.
 
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I'm saving up for Haswell-E or Skylake. Ye ol' Nehalem is getting long in the tooth.

Oh, well if it is EOL...maybe now's the time to OC that 920.

On Topic...

I thought you wanted to stay under $300? You should buy the best Motherboard chipset first, IMO, and then a CPU. You can always drop in a better cpu later, but a motherboard is a much bigger PIA. Plus...Overclocking.
 
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In my book I think you have enough for your setup right now and should just attempt to bump to 4.0ghz as that is not asking an extreme amount even with that board.

Though since you want to upgrade, I would say you can invest in a decent board and then throw a nice enough CPU to get you by for now with an upgrade later if you need it. I agree on getting something like an inexpensive Z97 board and a Pentium G3258, its a beast and can overclock enough to make up for the fact its a dual core. I have built a couple machines (One for myself recently) and honestly you can get a lot of performance out of that chip on top of it being only around 60 bucks.
 
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