• We've upgraded our forums. Please post any issues/requests in this thread.

CRT screen clicks and goes wide...any ideas?

columboid

New Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Messages
27 (0.01/day)
Likes
1
#1
My trusty CRT has for sometime now been letting out a click accompanied by the screen stretching. The left and right hand side of the screen stretch out of view but the height stays the same (so the aspect ratio goes a bit stretched).
Normally a firm smack or two on the left hand side of the monitor pops it back into shape but now it is not popping back once it goes.

I'm going in to see what's going on but don't know what I'm looking for, are there any electronics folk out their who could give me any clues of where to look.

It's an LG Flatron 915FT.

Thanks
 
Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Messages
5,606 (1.30/day)
Likes
1,282
Location
New York
System Name http://www.heatware.com/eval.php?id=73751
Processor i7-920 CO@4.2GHZ / ASUS GL553VW 15.6" Gaming Laptop NVIDIA GTX 960M 4GB Intel Core i56300HQ 8GB DDR4
Motherboard Asus P6T Deluxe Intel X58
Cooling Asetek Liquid CPU Cooling System
Memory CORSAIR DOMINATOR 6GB (3 x 2GB) DDR3 1600
Video Card(s) 2X ATI Radeon HD 4870 X2 2GB DDR5 PCI-Express
Storage (RAID-0) with 4 Identical Hard Drives (1.28TB (320GBx4)
Display(s) LG 50" 50PK550 1080p 600Hz Plasma/37 Inch WestingHouse @1920x1080
Case Thermaltake M9 (I hate it its like trying to live in a 1 inch box)
Power Supply ThermalTake ToughPower 1200 Watt
Software Windows 7 professional 64
#2
Normally that means its almost dead...not sure it would even be worth fixing.
 

Mussels

Moderprator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
46,118 (9.57/day)
Likes
13,544
Location
Australalalalalaia.
System Name Daddy Long Legs
Processor Ryzen R7 1700, 3.9GHz 1.375v
Motherboard MSI X370 Gaming PRO carbon
Cooling Fractal Celsius S24 (Silent fans, meh pump)
Memory 16GB 2133 generic @ 2800
Video Card(s) MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X (BIOS modded to Gaming Z - faster and solved black screen bugs!)
Storage 1TB Intel SSD Pro 6000p (60TB USB3 storage)
Display(s) Samsung 4K 40" HDTV (UA40KU6000WXXY) / 27" Qnix 2K 110Hz
Case Fractal Design R5. So much room, so quiet...
Audio Device(s) Pioneer VSX-519V + Yamaha YHT-270 / sennheiser HD595/518 + bob marley zion's
Power Supply Corsair HX 750i (Platinum, fan off til 300W)
Mouse Logitech G403 + KKmoon desk-sized mousepad
Keyboard Corsair K65 Rapidfire
Software Windows 10 pro x64 (all systems)
Benchmark Scores Laptops: i7-4510U + 840M 2GB (touchscreen) 275GB SSD + 16GB i7-2630QM + GT 540M + 8GB
#3
yeah its dying. hardly worth fixing, just go get yourself a new trusty LCD.
 

Black Panther

Senior Moderatorâ„¢
Staff member
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
8,957 (2.33/day)
Likes
2,166
System Name Great White Bengal
Processor i7 930 @ 4Ghz
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R
Cooling Scythe Yasya
Memory 12GB (3 x 4GB DDR3 Geil Black Dragon)
Video Card(s) Zotac 670 4GB
Storage eSata Seagate 2TB -- 240GB SSD Sandisk Extreme
Display(s) 27" 2560x1440 Dell U2711
Case NZXT Switch 810 White
Audio Device(s) Onboard sound & Z5500 Speakers
Power Supply Corsair 850W Gold
Mouse Asus ROG Sica
Keyboard Motospeed
Software Windows 10
#4

Frick

Fishfaced Nincompoop
Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
14,880 (3.45/day)
Likes
5,413
System Name A dancer in your disco of fire
Processor i3 4130 3.4Ghz
Motherboard MSI B85M-E45
Cooling Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Memory 4 x 4GB Crucial Ballistix Sport 1400Mhz
Video Card(s) Asus GTX 760 DCU2OC 2GB
Storage Crucial BX100 120GB | WD Blue 1TB x 2
Display(s) BenQ GL2450HT
Case AeroCool DS Cube White
Power Supply Cooler Master G550M
Mouse Intellimouse Explorer 3.0
Keyboard Dell SK-3205
Software Windows 10 Pro
#5
The normal thing to look for is bad caps, failing solder joints and stuff like that. The fact that it used to work if youy smacked it around a bit indicates that there might be as simple as loose cables, parts or joints. CRT's are pretty cramped so it might be hard to spot. But look very carefully.
 

columboid

New Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Messages
27 (0.01/day)
Likes
1
#6
Thanks for the advice. I'll go in and have butchers see if I can spot anything.
Otherwise I did see one on Ebay recently, fingers crossed another one comes up.

Cheers
 

AsRock

TPU addict
Joined
Jun 23, 2007
Messages
15,314 (4.00/day)
Likes
4,724
Location
US
Processor 2500k \ 3770k
Motherboard ASRock Z68 \ Z77
Memory Samsung low profile 1600
Video Card(s) XFX 6770 \ XFX R9 290X
Storage Intel 80Gb (SATA2) WD 250Gb \ Team SSD+Samsung Evo 250Gb+500Gb+ 2xCorsair Force+WD250GbHDD
Display(s) Samsung 1080P \ Toshiba HDTV 1080P
Case HTPC400 \ Thermaltake Armor case ( original ), With Zalman fan controller ( wattage usage ).
Audio Device(s) Yamaha RX-V475 \ Marantz SR5008 Tannoy Mercury MKII Paradigm 5SE + Tannoy Mercury F4
Power Supply PC&Power 750w \ Seasonic 750w MKII
Mouse MS intelimouse \ Logitech G700s + Steelseries Sensei wireless
Keyboard Logitech K120 \ ROCCAT MK Pro ( modded amber leds )
Benchmark Scores Meh benchmarks.
#7
The normal thing to look for is bad caps, failing solder joints and stuff like that. The fact that it used to work if youy smacked it around a bit indicates that there might be as simple as loose cables, parts or joints. CRT's are pretty cramped so it might be hard to spot. But look very carefully.
Yeah the good ol thump. CRT's are well known for their dry joints too, although if you plan to fix it your self make sure you discharge the tube 1st or else you be in for a nasty ( not deadly ) shock lol..
 

AsRock

TPU addict
Joined
Jun 23, 2007
Messages
15,314 (4.00/day)
Likes
4,724
Location
US
Processor 2500k \ 3770k
Motherboard ASRock Z68 \ Z77
Memory Samsung low profile 1600
Video Card(s) XFX 6770 \ XFX R9 290X
Storage Intel 80Gb (SATA2) WD 250Gb \ Team SSD+Samsung Evo 250Gb+500Gb+ 2xCorsair Force+WD250GbHDD
Display(s) Samsung 1080P \ Toshiba HDTV 1080P
Case HTPC400 \ Thermaltake Armor case ( original ), With Zalman fan controller ( wattage usage ).
Audio Device(s) Yamaha RX-V475 \ Marantz SR5008 Tannoy Mercury MKII Paradigm 5SE + Tannoy Mercury F4
Power Supply PC&Power 750w \ Seasonic 750w MKII
Mouse MS intelimouse \ Logitech G700s + Steelseries Sensei wireless
Keyboard Logitech K120 \ ROCCAT MK Pro ( modded amber leds )
Benchmark Scores Meh benchmarks.
#9
Will have to double check this but as i remember how i used to do it was to plug them ( make sure it's turned off ) in and used 2 screw drivers which had insulated handles and the wire that goes around the tube and connect it to the center of the cap thats connected to the tube.

Which is turn will release the charge from the unit. All though not done this over 10 years and it was in the UK at that time so if your in the USA i don't know if it's the same methered due to most plugs do not have a earth on them here.
 
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
2,261 (0.72/day)
Likes
171
Location
the uk that's all you need to know ;)
System Name not very good (wants throwing out window most of time)
Processor xp3000@ 2.17ghz pile of sh** /i7 920 DO on air for now
Motherboard msi kt6 delta oap /gigabyte x58 ud7 (rev1.0)
Cooling 1 green akasa 8cm(rear) 1 multicoloured akasa(hd) 1 12 cm (intake) 1 9cm with circuit from old psu
Memory 1.25 gb kingston hyperx @333mhz/ 3gb corsair dominator xmp 1600mhz
Video Card(s) (agp) hd3850 not bad not really suitable for mobo n processor/ gb hd5870
Storage wd 320gb + samsung 320 gig + wd 1tb 6gb/s
Display(s) compaq mv720
Case thermaltake XaserIII skull / coolermaster cm 690II
Audio Device(s) onboard
Power Supply corsair hx 650 w which solved many problems (blew up) /850w corsair
Software xp pro sp3/ ? win 7 ultimate (32 bit)
Benchmark Scores 6543 3d mark05 ye ye not good but look at the processor /uknown as still not benched
#10
google dry joints ;) could be something as simple as that

(sidenote) i is here stealin smilies for general nonsense
 

Wile E

Power User
Joined
Oct 1, 2006
Messages
24,318 (5.94/day)
Likes
3,682
System Name The ClusterF**k
Processor 980X @ 4Ghz
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD5 BIOS F12
Cooling MCR-320, DDC-1 pump w/Bitspower res top (1/2" fittings), Koolance CPU-360
Memory 3x2GB Mushkin Redlines 1600Mhz 6-8-6-24 1T
Video Card(s) Evga GTX 580
Storage Corsair Neutron GTX 240GB, 2xSeagate 320GB RAID0; 2xSeagate 3TB; 2xSamsung 2TB; Samsung 1.5TB
Display(s) HP LP2475w 24" 1920x1200 IPS
Case Technofront Bench Station
Audio Device(s) Auzentech X-Fi Forte into Onkyo SR606 and Polk TSi200's + RM6750
Power Supply ENERMAX Galaxy EVO EGX1250EWT 1250W
Software Win7 Ultimate N x64, OSX 10.8.4
#11
After you figure out that you have no clue what the hell is going on inside that monitor, just go buy yourself an IPS lcd.

Don't buy another used one, as it will probably just be ready to die as well. Why else would somebody wait to sell until now?
 

Frick

Fishfaced Nincompoop
Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
14,880 (3.45/day)
Likes
5,413
System Name A dancer in your disco of fire
Processor i3 4130 3.4Ghz
Motherboard MSI B85M-E45
Cooling Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Memory 4 x 4GB Crucial Ballistix Sport 1400Mhz
Video Card(s) Asus GTX 760 DCU2OC 2GB
Storage Crucial BX100 120GB | WD Blue 1TB x 2
Display(s) BenQ GL2450HT
Case AeroCool DS Cube White
Power Supply Cooler Master G550M
Mouse Intellimouse Explorer 3.0
Keyboard Dell SK-3205
Software Windows 10 Pro
#12
Well all CRT's are pretty old by now, so that I agree on.

IPS is not a must though imo. It depends on how sensitive you are, I switch regulary between CRTs, TN's and IPS panels and it rarely bothers me, even in gaming and movies. :p
 
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
2,261 (0.72/day)
Likes
171
Location
the uk that's all you need to know ;)
System Name not very good (wants throwing out window most of time)
Processor xp3000@ 2.17ghz pile of sh** /i7 920 DO on air for now
Motherboard msi kt6 delta oap /gigabyte x58 ud7 (rev1.0)
Cooling 1 green akasa 8cm(rear) 1 multicoloured akasa(hd) 1 12 cm (intake) 1 9cm with circuit from old psu
Memory 1.25 gb kingston hyperx @333mhz/ 3gb corsair dominator xmp 1600mhz
Video Card(s) (agp) hd3850 not bad not really suitable for mobo n processor/ gb hd5870
Storage wd 320gb + samsung 320 gig + wd 1tb 6gb/s
Display(s) compaq mv720
Case thermaltake XaserIII skull / coolermaster cm 690II
Audio Device(s) onboard
Power Supply corsair hx 650 w which solved many problems (blew up) /850w corsair
Software xp pro sp3/ ? win 7 ultimate (32 bit)
Benchmark Scores 6543 3d mark05 ye ye not good but look at the processor /uknown as still not benched
#13
heres some links to pics of dry joints

http://www.lcdmonitorrepairebook.co...s-for-soldering-dry-joints-on-circuit-boards/

on this page go down to where it says Broken solder joints on a Flyback transformer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering

remember to switch the monitor of whilst its still running then leave it (unplugged for a few days),to make sure it's fully discharged

as for the tube, it's covered by a rubber cap, so it shouldn't pose a danger to you unless you start fiddling with it or touch the wire under it,
it looks like this (ht lead)


you could use some pieces of dry wood with a 10 Meg resistor attached to an earth via some wire, to bleed the thing (not recommended)

anyways take your time if you do look at it (wear thick rubber gloves to protect yourself, you shouldn't need them but :rolleyes: best to be safe ;)

areas to avoid touching

where the mains capacitor is (it should say something like 400 v 200 mf (size may vary) and is usually a big fat thing near where the mains goes in

around the flyback transformer


but as said if you leave it unplugged all the current should dissapate leaving it safeish to touch (only the tube area can keep a charge for more than a few days)

and finaly don't attempt any of this if you havent got a clue :laugh::roll::D
 

columboid

New Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Messages
27 (0.01/day)
Likes
1
#14
Haven't been inside yet.
Interestingly, it only does it on 1024 x 768 and the next resolution up from that, any higher resolutions and it's fine. That's a temporary work around.

RE LCDs, I would love to switch to LCD's, in fact I have a 24inch ASUS which is mostly good.
LCDs are bigger in picture, smaller in foot print, they don't buzz and click, they're economical and they are undoubtably the future...but there are two fundamental issues that make them unworkable for me.

Firstly, the picture quality and smoothness is not as good. When gaming the extra size of an LCD is great but the quality is not as good as my CRT (it's not far off to be fair).

I think I could almost live with this an my LCD is not high end so if I shelled out on a decent LCD then this probably woudln't be an issue, but the second issue is the show stopper...resolution. To the best of my knowledge LCDs have one native resoultion that if you move away from results in a drop of picture quality. Assuming a large screen with a high native resolution then for gaming this is fine but when I switch to desktop stuff the resolution is way to small, I use some audio software that has lots of tiny controls and text and it's just too small. Same goes for office stuuf or even the web. Most sites are still optimised for about 1024 and so you find yourself straining to read the text whilst the right hand side osf the screen is empty and unused.
The only solution is to change the resolution and then the quality drops and it's like stepping back in time to looking at a Speccy wired up to the family TV.

I've tried screen magnifiers, changing fonts and icon sizes and even getting up close to the monitor but it's all just an unacceptable compromise that is not an issue at all with CRTs.
The big issue with CRTs is they don't make them any more.

If anyone has been through this and found a solution or an LCD monitor that somehow does the job, please let me know. As I said above I would dearly love to switch to LCD.
 

ericpepin

New Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
6 (0.00/day)
Likes
0
#15
I'll suggest you to get a new one (prefer TFT) its much cheaper and works fine with low electricity wastage. Thanks
 

columboid

New Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2010
Messages
27 (0.01/day)
Likes
1
#16
Have pushed the old CRT up to 1200 and something by 900 and something.
It doesn't do the expanding/clicking stuff at this new resolution and it's just about big enough.
Still going to go in, just need to find the time tio leave it off for a few days.

Thanks above for all your advice. :toast:
 

Wile E

Power User
Joined
Oct 1, 2006
Messages
24,318 (5.94/day)
Likes
3,682
System Name The ClusterF**k
Processor 980X @ 4Ghz
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD5 BIOS F12
Cooling MCR-320, DDC-1 pump w/Bitspower res top (1/2" fittings), Koolance CPU-360
Memory 3x2GB Mushkin Redlines 1600Mhz 6-8-6-24 1T
Video Card(s) Evga GTX 580
Storage Corsair Neutron GTX 240GB, 2xSeagate 320GB RAID0; 2xSeagate 3TB; 2xSamsung 2TB; Samsung 1.5TB
Display(s) HP LP2475w 24" 1920x1200 IPS
Case Technofront Bench Station
Audio Device(s) Auzentech X-Fi Forte into Onkyo SR606 and Polk TSi200's + RM6750
Power Supply ENERMAX Galaxy EVO EGX1250EWT 1250W
Software Win7 Ultimate N x64, OSX 10.8.4
#17
Haven't been inside yet.
Interestingly, it only does it on 1024 x 768 and the next resolution up from that, any higher resolutions and it's fine. That's a temporary work around.

RE LCDs, I would love to switch to LCD's, in fact I have a 24inch ASUS which is mostly good.
LCDs are bigger in picture, smaller in foot print, they don't buzz and click, they're economical and they are undoubtably the future...but there are two fundamental issues that make them unworkable for me.

Firstly, the picture quality and smoothness is not as good. When gaming the extra size of an LCD is great but the quality is not as good as my CRT (it's not far off to be fair).

I think I could almost live with this an my LCD is not high end so if I shelled out on a decent LCD then this probably woudln't be an issue, but the second issue is the show stopper...resolution. To the best of my knowledge LCDs have one native resoultion that if you move away from results in a drop of picture quality. Assuming a large screen with a high native resolution then for gaming this is fine but when I switch to desktop stuff the resolution is way to small, I use some audio software that has lots of tiny controls and text and it's just too small. Same goes for office stuuf or even the web. Most sites are still optimised for about 1024 and so you find yourself straining to read the text whilst the right hand side osf the screen is empty and unused.
The only solution is to change the resolution and then the quality drops and it's like stepping back in time to looking at a Speccy wired up to the family TV.

I've tried screen magnifiers, changing fonts and icon sizes and even getting up close to the monitor but it's all just an unacceptable compromise that is not an issue at all with CRTs.
The big issue with CRTs is they don't make them any more.

If anyone has been through this and found a solution or an LCD monitor that somehow does the job, please let me know. As I said above I would dearly love to switch to LCD.
If you have Windows 7, you can increase the icon and text size while still using a high resolution.

Personally, I suggest you just adjust. You get used to it after a while, and wonder why you ever wanted to stay with the lower resolutions to begin with.