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CRYORIG H5 vs H7 on OC 8600k

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#1
So I'm working on a new build after selling off my wife's old PC (Phenom II x4 955 build) and giving her my current gaming PC (i5-7600k build).

For my new case I used a Phanteks P400S, motherboard - Asus Z370-P, CPU - Intel i5-8600k with a CRYORIG H5 cooler. I installed my own Enermax/Artic fans in the new case, two 140mm intake front fans and two 120mm out take fans (one top and one rear).

After loading all the software I went into BIOS and set all the fans to normal settings (around 600 rpm) while enabling the "Auto Asus OC to 5ghz" feature on the motherboard (AVX enabled). My basement office typically stays cool around 62f and I used HWmonitor to capture all temps, fan speed & CPU voltage.

A quick run of Cinebench had the CPU touching 80c with voltage easily breaking 1.4v. I went into BIOS and set the CPU to 4.8ghz with everything else still on auto and this time temps hit 70c and voltage breaking 1.3 with the CPU fan spinning around 800rpm. I swapped out the H5 for the H7 that handled my OC i5-7600k with ease at 4.8ghz. I had the exact same temps with the CPU fan at the same speed even after gaming for 20 minutes. Placed the H5 back on the 8600k.

This time I went into BIOS, set the voltage to 1.23, set AVX offeset to 3, ran Cinebench as a warm up and then gamed for 30 minutes with the H5 cooler. Temps hit 60c with the CPU running under 800rpm. Swapped out the coolers again and this time placed a 140mm fan up top instead of a 120mm since I had more room with the H7. Temps stayed exactly the same with the CPU fan running under 800rpm.

The point of all this? I have read a lot of posts with people stating the Cryorig H7 can't handle an OC 8600k and while I know the H5 offers 3-5c better cooling at 100% fan rpm you can still make a rather impressive OC on the 8600k with a smaller cooler like the H7. As long as your office doesn't have rain jungle temps or you run Prime95 all day long.

A tube of Noctua NT-H1 was sacrificed for this experiment. On a side note, why is there a red head staring at you on the back of the package?
 
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#2
For another data point, as I have 8600K as well, I am running Phanteks PH-TC14PE and two Thermalright TY-143 140mm fans on it, the temps I see stock voltage (1.120V load) and stock turbo clock are 50*C load and 26*C idle in a 24*C ambient room. Paste is Arctic Silver 5. Load is playing a GTA V for an hour or so. In spite of my overkill aircooler, you can probably run the i5 8600K with just about any cooler IMO. Probably even the plastic push pin Intel cooler if you can get the retention correct on it. It doesn't get any hotter than previous i5s.
 
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#3
Not to diminish your thread, but I hate the Cryorig H7 mounting. Wobbly x-bar design that wiggle around when lifted ensuring it will shift position by the time you get it on top of your CPU? Check. Washers that don't screw down to firmly secure back plate? Check. When mounting the heatsink to align with the protruding screws from the back plate the heat sink will push said screws backwards out of position? Check. Good luck hoping the x-bar doesn't flop out of position while firmly pressing all four screws from the underside of your motherboard at the same time. If you manage to get two sections of the heat sink aligned with two screws, good luck prying the other two sections of the x-bar into place with a tiny screw driver (while pressing the back plate on the underside of the motherboard). Hope you don't scratch your board!

Not sure why it has to be so complicated. Can't recommend this cooler based on how horrible the mounting is.
 
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#4
1. The H5 and H7 don't really impress... the Phantels is a great option but I'd never take off the original fans off the cooler or out of the case which are among the best on the market. Scroll down to see chart here:

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

Take a Noctua cooler for example and swap out the fans for Phantels and temps drop by 6C at the same rpm. Yes, going to high speed fans can drop temps but at an almost painful increase in noise.

For mid cost air coolers i recommend the Scythe Mugen Max (last one I grabbed was ($37) or the Scythe Fuma which runs about the same $45 as the H5. Both perform on par or outperform with the Noc NH-D15 and Cryorig R1 Ultimate. For TIM, no need to spend more than $4

2. I am completely puzzled with the continued fixation on synthetic utilities for overclocking. Question: Did you buy your PC to:

a) Test CPU Cooler performance ?
b) Get your name on web site leaderboards requiring outdated tools for eligibility ?
c) Run games and applications ?

I the answer was not a or b , lose the synthetic utilities.

-P95 new versions have the capacity to damage components, so not recommended outside the lab where you get the stuff for free. Using the old versions proves only that your system is stable as long as modern instruction sets are not present. Using a single task stress utility is of what value when your 24 hour stable P95 OC fails under a multitasking application based benchmark like RoG Real Bench. Also, let's say you and ya sweetie pie wona contest and rec'd a pair of Ski-Doos and trailer. You live on Long ISland at 40 feet above sea leval and you are windering if ya SUV can handle towing the loaded (650 ponds) trailer for the 12 mile ride to the marina. Would you test your SYV's towing capacity and tune the vehicle by towing an 8,000 pound load up the rocky mountains ? Doesn't it actually make more sense to look at the impact on the vehicle (do temps rise, need a tranny cooler, is it tuned for sea level) towing a similar load to what the vegicle will actually be doing ... or test it at 8,000 feet above sea level towing a load like it will never ever see again ?

-Run the stability test and dial in your OCs with an application based multitasking stress test like RoG Real Bench. You will wind up with lower temps, lower voltages and the test will place a load on the system far greater than wifie will ever give it.

-As for procedures, I like to work my way up. With turbo at 43, that's where I start with RAM at default JEDEC setting. Using RoG Real Bench for testing and HWiNFO for monitoring, I will turn down voltages and test using the 8 minute benchmark till I get a fail. Then will increase voltage a notch and see if I can pass a 4 hour stress test. Dial that in and save the settings in the BIOS Profile section and label it stock. Then I rerun the test on XMP and adjust if necessary.... resave over at same profile number as "Stock-XMP"

-Next will try at 44 multiplier, again recording relevant BIOS setting, VCore Setting, any other changed BIOS settings, as well as average and max core temps and voltages thru each section of the test .... doing final testing and saving as 44-44-44-44-XMP

-Keeping at it .... will record 45, 46, 47, 48, 49 and 50. The data I record (spreadsheet) is useful for determining trends. The BIOS profiles are useful in that I may boot to 50-50-50-50-XMP when 1st trying a game and eventually playing at the 48 setting just cause I saw no impact, and temps were 10C cooler.
 

ZyFinity

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#5
Hi, how well d
So I'm working on a new build after selling off my wife's old PC (Phenom II x4 955 build) and giving her my current gaming PC (i5-7600k build).

For my new case I used a Phanteks P400S, motherboard - Asus Z370-P, CPU - Intel i5-8600k with a CRYORIG H5 cooler. I installed my own Enermax/Artic fans in the new case, two 140mm intake front fans and two 120mm out take fans (one top and one rear).

After loading all the software I went into BIOS and set all the fans to normal settings (around 600 rpm) while enabling the "Auto Asus OC to 5ghz" feature on the motherboard (AVX enabled). My basement office typically stays cool around 62f and I used HWmonitor to capture all temps, fan speed & CPU voltage.

A quick run of Cinebench had the CPU touching 80c with voltage easily breaking 1.4v. I went into BIOS and set the CPU to 4.8ghz with everything else still on auto and this time temps hit 70c and voltage breaking 1.3 with the CPU fan spinning around 800rpm. I swapped out the H5 for the H7 that handled my OC i5-7600k with ease at 4.8ghz. I had the exact same temps with the CPU fan at the same speed even after gaming for 20 minutes. Placed the H5 back on the 8600k.

This time I went into BIOS, set the voltage to 1.23, set AVX offeset to 3, ran Cinebench as a warm up and then gamed for 30 minutes with the H5 cooler. Temps hit 60c with the CPU running under 800rpm. Swapped out the coolers again and this time placed a 140mm fan up top instead of a 120mm since I had more room with the H7. Temps stayed exactly the same with the CPU fan running under 800rpm.

The point of all this? I have read a lot of posts with people stating the Cryorig H7 can't handle an OC 8600k and while I know the H5 offers 3-5c better cooling at 100% fan rpm you can still make a rather impressive OC on the 8600k with a smaller cooler like the H7. As long as your office doesn't have rain jungle temps or you run Prime95 all day long.

A tube of Noctua NT-H1 was sacrificed for this experiment. On a side note, why is there a red head staring at you on the back of the package?
How well did the asus Z370-p handle the i5 8600k Oc'd to 5ghz? ive heard somewhere that it doesnt have the best VRM cooling?
 

FreedomEclipse

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#6
As point of observation (as someone who has used NT-H1 for multiple applications but still had 90% of the tube before giving it away) if you sacrificed an entire tube of NT-H1 then you must of been slapping it on like the worlds worst bricklayer putting together a wall.

 
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#7
How well did the asus Z370-p handle the i5 8600k Oc'd to 5ghz? ive heard somewhere that it doesnt have the best VRM cooling?
As a budget board it's solid enough but I would not recommend it for over clocking. The VRM cooling is mediocre and holding an OC above 4.8ghz was difficult. I switched to a Gigabyte Z370 AORUS Gaming 3 with much better results.

As point of observation (as someone who has used NT-H1 for multiple applications but still had 90% of the tube before giving it away) if you sacrificed an entire tube of NT-H1 then you must of been slapping it on like the worlds worst bricklayer putting together a wall.
The tube was already opened. It just so happened swapping out the two heat sinks among the two CPUs ended up finishing the tube. I only use a small amount of thermal paste on my heat sinks, about the size of a dried up pea.
 

FreedomEclipse

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#8
The tube was already opened. It just so happened swapping out the two heat sinks among the two CPUs ended up finishing the tube. I only use a small amount of thermal paste on my heat sinks, about the size of a dried up pea.

Oh :p I thought you squeezed out the entire contents of a fresh tube on two heatsink changes. I was going to tell you how crazy you were for using so much paste.
 
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#9
Oh :p I thought you squeezed out the entire contents of a fresh tube on two heatsink changes. I was going to tell you how crazy you were for using so much paste.
it was five changes, H5 & H7 on both the 7600k and 8600k. Then I placed the H7 back again on the 7600k...and then I sold the cryorig H5 a few months later and got a Noctua cooler for the 8600k. :D
 

ZyFinity

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#10
it was five changes, H5 & H7 on both the 7600k and 8600k. Then I placed the H7 back again on the 7600k...and then I sold the cryorig H5 a few months later and got a Noctua cooler for the 8600k. :D
damn i didnt see that reply and purchased one, but i ended up buying an i5 9600k as they were similarly priced, do you think if i buy a cryorig h7 it will handle and oc up to 5ghz?
 
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#11
damn i didnt see that reply and purchased one, but i ended up buying an i5 9600k as they were similarly priced, do you think if i buy a cryorig h7 it will handle and oc up to 5ghz?
Here is a 8700k @4.8ghz on Prime (worst case scenario). I would say ithe H7 would handle the 9600k at 5ghz for gaming but don't be shocked if you see temps in the 70s (still below throttling).

 
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