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DIY sewer sub. 6" of DIY powah!

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#1
No woodwork skills needed. Just a drill and a saw. Anyone could build this with hardware store parts.

6" drain PVC, 1-1/2" PVC, a 1-1/2 to 2" bushing, 2" coupler, and two 6" caps.

The coupler is used to hold the bushing in the 6" cap from the back side. 6" PVC is 15" long. Port is 10" long. File the lip off the inside of the bushing so the port can be pressed into it from the inside. Port lenght can vary from a few inches to a foot depending on the sub used and the tuned frequency. Tune it then glue it.

My "subwoofer" was just some el-cheapo 6" speaker I had laying around but it's loud enough to fill in the missing low end of a stock Mecury SUV. :D Hits as low as the 12" that came out just not as loud.












 

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#2
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#3
I found an old Altec Lansing computer sub in the basement and it wound up being 4ohms. Looks better and gets much louder. I need to record this thing somehow. I'm actually impressed. o_O

 

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#4
New vid of the Altec Lansing but it only lasted about 15min. It didn't burn up. The glue on the bobbin was dried out and failed. =( But I got another video of this one. Check it out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jw24EsCpuP0
 

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#5
Bleh. How can you stand the sound of tube boxes? They are terrible. Although, I have to admit, very ingenious idea if sound quality is not your main concern.
 
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#6
there are some kickass builds that can be done with sonotube, with real subs...
 
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#7
SQ is my concern and I spent 2 hours tuning the enclosure with a signal generator. :D

EDIT - Being a cheap bastard is the other concern.
 

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#8
What is the enclosure tuned to? I would like to try this for s&g's with a decent 8" sub instead.
 
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#9
We were doing this stuff in high school with 5 gallon paint buckets and 12s bumpin' Eazy-E. :laugh:
 
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#10
We were doing this stuff in high school with 5 gallon paint buckets and 12s bumpin' Eazy-E. :laugh:
With a signal generator, spectrum analyzer, and a knowlage in acoustics, harmonics, and musical scale? Unlikely. :rolleyes:
 
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#11
What is the enclosure tuned to? I would like to try this for s&g's with a decent 8" sub instead.
It's tuned to C-1 aprox 33hz
 

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#12
Love the idea but 1st that speaker has no chance of creating any decent sound compression in that tube. Try digging up a long throw woofer.

Plastic is another issue well that and being thin too.
 

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#13
SQ is my concern and I spent 2 hours tuning the enclosure with a signal generator. :D

EDIT - Being a cheap bastard is the other concern.
By SQ, I mean flat, accurate response. Only sealed will do.

But like I said, if the tuned tube box is your sound, this is a great idea.
 
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#14
Love the idea but 1st that speaker has no chance of creating any decent sound compression in that tube. Try digging up a long throw woofer.

Plastic is another issue well that and being thin too.
The PVC is pretty solid for what it is. Yeh that first speaker was just something I had laying around. It's built better then the Altec Lansing, that disintegrated, but didn't perform as loud as the Altec. Mostly in part to the Altec being 4ohm and the 'generic' being 8. The amp is under a plastic cover in the truck and I couldn't adjust the gain easily. A longer throw woofer is on the way. Rated 150w RMS -if- I can keep the excursion to a minimum.

By SQ, I mean flat, accurate response. Only sealed will do.

But like I said, if the tuned tube box is your sound, this is a great idea.
I have 2 Cadence 10s in an acoustic suspension enclosure in my SVX. They sound much better I agree. The truck in the vids isn't even mine. It's my friend who runs a dog adoption agency and taking her 12" sub in and out, to put in dog transport cages, was too much work for her. I was aiming for fast, simple design, high output, while maintaining a good sound quality. It's hard to fill an SUV with sound from a single 6" sub that would fit where it does. Have you ever heard a decent set of 6x9s (that's a oxy) in a Caprice trunk deck that almost trick you into thinking there's a sub in the trunk? This single 6" has roughly that output.

Oh and Wile, You know damn well there's no such thing as flat response in a vehicle. lol
 
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#15
The PVC is pretty solid for what it is. Yeh that first speaker was just something I had laying around. It's built better then the Altec Lansing, that disintegrated, but didn't perform as loud as the Altec. Mostly in part to the Altec being 4ohm and the 'generic' being 8. The amp is under a plastic cover in the truck and I couldn't adjust the gain easily. A longer throw woofer is on the way. Rated 150w RMS -if- I can keep the excursion to a minimum.

I have 2 Cadence 10s in an acoustic suspension enclosure in my SVX. They sound much better I agree. The truck in the vids isn't even mine. It's my friend who runs a dog adoption agency and taking her 12" sub in and out, to put in dog transport cages, was too much work for her. I was aiming for fast, simple design, high output, while maintaining a good sound quality. It's hard to fill an SUV with sound from a single 6" sub that would fit where it does. Have you ever heard a decent set of 6x9s (that's a oxy) in a Caprice trunk deck that almost trick you into thinking there's a sub in the trunk? This single 6" has roughly that output.
some explanation helps lol ;) spectrum analyzer, eh? where'd you find that? i wouldnt mind a cheap portable oscilliscope for dialing in amp gain, but what do you think you need a spectrum analyzer for? haha.

i wouldnt be concerned about using PVC, that stuff is pretty damn rigid. good call on venting that also, you'll need the extra 6dB since that thing is so tiny. i'd be more concerned about throwing random speakers in the box, shooting in the dark for good performance. t/s parameters and proper analysis is a must for a successful project...

to Mr. Qtc of .707: let's be serious here, a 6" in a sealed box wouldnt do much.
 
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#16
some explanation helps lol ;) spectrum analyzer, eh? where'd you find that? i wouldnt mind a cheap portable oscilliscope for dialing in amp gain, but what do you think you need a spectrum analyzer for? haha.

i wouldnt be concerned about using PVC, that stuff is pretty damn rigid. good call on venting that also, you'll need the extra 6dB since that thing is so tiny. i'd be more concerned about throwing random speakers in the box, shooting in the dark for good performance. t/s parameters and proper analysis is a must for a successful project...

to Mr. Qtc of .707: let's be serious here, a 6" in a sealed box wouldnt do much.
I've built many boxes based on the math and had them sound like total garbage. Many of these speaker manufactures don't base their TS off SQ performance but rather off max power handling with least distortion for db performance. How do you think they rate a speaker to handle crazy wattage that might as well be a horsepower rating? They stiffen the suspension and recomend a tiny box so that speaker 'chokes' and wont over-excurt. I don't mean to imply they state TS parameters for anything other then what they are but look at how some of these speakers are built. Does it really take 2000w to move a 10 gram cone? Speakers need a power to weight ratio.

Besides, I didn't build this to show off any mad enclosure building skills or anything. I just did it quick and easy and figured I'd post it for others to try. I just happened to be very impressed with it's sound for what it was. :)
 
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#17
Good work man, although I prefer the sound of an infinite baffle instead of a tuned ported sub.
I did some work over the summer on a sub-woofer for my pc and hifi gear.
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=101818
Sounds fantastic no matter what the music is, nice deep bass with a tight response. :D
Im glad I went with the Mission speaker as it matches my M30i speakers, I just copied the enclosure volume of the subwoofer the driver is designed for. :D
 
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#18
I like unsealed boxes, but I use multi-compartments, and long ports between them, andthen one large tuned port.

Add that onto a good set of speakers and you can get some awsome kicks and some nice rattle.
 

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#19
With a signal generator, spectrum analyzer, and a knowlage in acoustics, harmonics, and musical scale? Unlikely. :rolleyes:
thats a pretty sweet call out. makes you look wicked cool considering he didnt say anything about going about the project in a pro manner
 
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#20
Good work man, although I prefer the sound of an infinite baffle instead of a tuned ported sub.
I did some work over the summer on a sub-woofer for my pc and hifi gear.
http://forums.techpowerup.com/showthread.php?t=101818
Sounds fantastic no matter what the music is, nice deep bass with a tight response. :D
Im glad I went with the Mission speaker as it matches my M30i speakers, I just copied the enclosure volume of the subwoofer the driver is designed for. :D
Woah wtf is up with those suggestions on that link? Who the hell had you put 2.6k resistors in series with the sub? = fail. Bet that didn't work too well eh? lol Paralleling an amp's outputs like that isn't a good idea. Even with both inputs being driven mono your asking for it. Hope that drawing is line-level and with a powered sub.

thats a pretty sweet call out. makes you look wicked cool considering he didnt say anything about going about the project in a pro manner
Compairing my project to a sub stuck in a paint bucket is both belittling and insulting. It doesn't look very impressive I'll give you that but c'mon. :rolleyes:
 
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#21
Woah wtf is up with those suggestions on that link? Who the hell had you put 2.6k resistors in series with the sub? = fail. Bet that didn't work too well eh? lol Paralleling an amp's outputs like that isn't a good idea. Even with both inputs being driven mono your asking for it. Hope that drawing is line-level and with a powered sub.
Yeh I know, don't worry I haven't done it like the initial drawings. Main speakers are driven normally and the low level headphone out is then connected to the RCA on the sub amp. Works a treat.
 
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#22
With a signal generator, spectrum analyzer, and a knowlage in acoustics, harmonics, and musical scale? Unlikely. :rolleyes:
Where in the original post did you say anything about these things? Oh, that's right, you didn't. Drill, saw, PVC pipe, enjoy. That's all I see.
 

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#23
Oh and Wile, You know damn well there's no such thing as flat response in a vehicle. lol
lol. You won't hear any arguments out of me about that, but I like to try to get it as close as possible.
 
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Memory 2x4gb XMS 7-8-7-20 1600
Video Card(s) HD6870
Storage 2x128gb Kingston Hyper-X (Raid0), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1)
Display(s) Soyo 24", Gateway 22"
Case Fractal Design Arc Mini 6x120mm fans.
Audio Device(s) Onboard
Power Supply Zalman 750w
Software Windows 7
#24
lol. You won't hear any arguments out of me about that, but I like to try to get it as close as possible.
Have they come up with an inexpensive device for per-speaker phase adjustment yet? I have this huge null in my mid-bass in the SVX. Drives me up the wall. :banghead: I've double and tripple checked polarity because it sounds like something is out of phase but it's all wired correctly.
 

Wile E

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System Name The ClusterF**k
Processor 980X @ 4Ghz
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD5 BIOS F12
Cooling MCR-320, DDC-1 pump w/Bitspower res top (1/2" fittings), Koolance CPU-360
Memory 3x2GB Mushkin Redlines 1600Mhz 6-8-6-24 1T
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Case Technofront Bench Station
Audio Device(s) Auzentech X-Fi Forte into Onkyo SR606 and Polk TSi200's + RM6750
Power Supply ENERMAX Galaxy EVO EGX1250EWT 1250W
Software Win7 Ultimate N x64, OSX 10.8.4
#25
Have they come up with an inexpensive device for per-speaker phase adjustment yet? I have this huge null in my mid-bass in the SVX. Drives me up the wall. :banghead: I've double and tripple checked polarity because it sounds like something is out of phase but it's all wired correctly.
No they haven't. You're SOL there, tho I bet you could come up with something. :D. You positive it's not a simple crossover issue?

And what's this about an SVX? Still have the MX3 and 5's?