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[EOL] Arctic MX-5 is here!!Tests incoming! Completed. Now its MX-6 testing time!

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this is not what i said.
if you have a card that suffers a lot from it a tiny bit less tightened down screws leave a little bit more room and these ~0.2mm are enough on some heatsinks to make the whole pump out effect way less dramatic.
my 2080 Ti had the worst issues where paste barely lasted more than two weeks.
with a slightly less screwed down heatsink it was over 3 months.
:rolleyes: There are so many things wrong with what you just stated, I really don't know where to begin, so I'm not going to bother. Carry on..
 
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Good tips! I remember shin-etsu, I think they were rumoured to be OeM for Lenovo a while back. Could be wrong though.
So far SYY is holding up solid in my end. Mx-5 is working fine in dell as well.

I am glad to help.
This is a YouTube video and I do not understand what the guy says, but a picture is worth a thousand words. :)
Funny, almost nobody talks about Shin-Etsu 7921 or Thermalright TF9.
 
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As I mentioned Shin-Etsu 7921, some updates...

Thermalright TF3 = Shin-Etsu 7921, but with the advantage of not get a fake paste.
In the Chinese forums they are talking a lot about the new Honeywell PTM7950, it can last longer...
The film version is the way.

From https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?...50-thermal-grease-which-you-dont-know.373132/
Around 22:00 Larid 780SP is 2 C higher than 7921/TFX without break-in or pump-out. https://b23.tv/egP06l
Long term review, around 5:25, 7950 is 2C better than 780SP and those phase transition stuffs can survive over 10*24 hrs stress test. https://b23.tv/4nLK1L
 

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I am glad to help.
This is a YouTube video and I do not understand what the guy says, but a picture is worth a thousand words. :)
Funny, almost nobody talks about Shin-Etsu 7921 or Thermalright TF9.
You can buy Shin Etsu X23-7921 from moddiy.com. The website is trusted. I have bought from them for many many years, always got genuine product. They ship from China.

They carry other Shin Etsu compounds and other brands too. 7921 has a tacky, slightly putty thickness. It can be difficult to work with. I swear by Prolimatech PK3 now since I can get it in 30 gram tubes for a good price and is extremely easy to worth with, with long performing life. I have no observed paste separation with it.
 

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Reviving ye olde thread

Igors lab took a big poo poo on MX4 for GPU use, and this thread is our big thermal paste discussion thread

Blob, sausage or solid? Apply thermal paste to the GPU correctly - we measured! | Page 2 | igor'sLAB (igorslab.de)


1662355431680.png



He has some interesting and almost contradictory comments later, i think the translation muddied a few things


He poops right on MX4 and spreading, because his thicker preference for pastes doesnt spread well.
He DOES say thinner pastes work better with this method, but a lot of websites and social media groups are now harping on about the line method being the only choice, when he does state that spreading is only bad on his preferred thicker pastes

1662355536731.png




Interestingly, his line method he does things differently: He does top left bottom left, top right bottom right (only until they grip, definitely not until tight) - instead of the more common diagonal approach


1662355655486.png



So I guess a lot of reasons people find different application methods work for them comes down to the paste they use.
Hell ambient temperature might too - in the 40C aussie summer every paste is a liquid, but in the frozen wastelands of Canada they'd all be frozen solid and require different spread methods


Personally i like to spread the paste, then add a small blob to the center - spreading doesnt work perfectly unless you've lapped both sides for flat contact, any excess will get pushed to where its needed
 
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So I guess a lot of reasons people find different application methods work for them comes down to the paste they use.
Hell ambient temperature might too - in the 40C aussie summer every paste is a liquid, but in the frozen wastelands of Canada they'd all be frozen solid and require different spread methods


Personally i like to spread the paste, then add a small blob to the center - spreading doesnt work perfectly unless you've lapped both sides for flat contact, any excess will get pushed to where its needed

I agree.
Here with a lapped cooler + non lapped CPU the contact is not perfect, but good enough for me, using the spread + a small blob in the center.

I am testing mixing a small bit of Krytox grease with the pastes to create a longer lasting mix, seems to have worked well for the Alseye T9+ Platinum
and probably will work ok for the other dense carbon based models like Thermalright TFX/Zezzio ZT-GX/Thermagic ZF-EX.
I have no conclusion yet, but when the Shin-Etsu 7921 arrives I will test to see the performance degradation from pure to the mix.
A very interesting post at https://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/threads/thermal-paste-specification-comparison.6677965/page-9
Baked at 200ºC for 24h, the green bar belongs to the survivors, it shows the values of before and after baking.
200ºC is too much, but it is interesting anyway.
 
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Hi,
Probably the worst spread job I've ever seen after seeing it again :eek:
@lexluthermiester should have fun with it :laugh:
,
1662370018157.png
 

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Hi,
Probably the worst spread job I've ever seen after seeing it again :eek:
@lexluthermiester should have fun with it :laugh:
,
View attachment 260704

But with a little twisting on the cooler before it's tightened would solved that and i have had no problems over 20 years over doing it like that.

Maybe the camera is making it look worse ?.
 
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Hi,
Probably the worst spread job I've ever seen after seeing it again :eek:
@lexluthermiester should have fun with it :laugh:
,
View attachment 260704
Fun? Not really. I would wipe it off and try again. That's a terrible spread job. I've seen butter spread on toast with better skill than that photo..

Maybe the camera is making it look worse ?.
It's not the photo. It's an example of poor work. See below;
IMG_20220905_075611.jpgIMG_20220905_075702.jpg
This is a good spread job. Just did this to show proper work.
 
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Fun? Not really. I would wipe it off and try again. That's a terrible spread job. I've seen butter spread on toast with better skill than that photo..


It's not the photo. It's an example of poor work. See below;
View attachment 260734View attachment 260735
This is a good spread job. Just did this to show proper work.

Well i do the same thing, well close to i leave about 1mm at the edge then when the heatsink is placed a little twist back and forth solves it all. A little twisting clears it right up.

Been going though how and what is the best with my GPU in the passed hitting 90c in summer (ambient being in the 30-34c, best tool i found is one of those small ice cream spoons, now it only hits 84c after many hours.

Just this way takes a little more time but it's 100% worth it over the pea size or X ways. Peace of mind to knowing the whole die is covered too.
 
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Fun? Not really. I would wipe it off and try again. That's a terrible spread job. I've seen butter spread on toast with better skill than that photo..


It's not the photo. It's an example of poor work. See below;
View attachment 260734View attachment 260735
This is a good spread job. Just did this to show proper work.
Some people would cringe at the sight of your CPU laid down on the carpet with no EMI shielding. :p Sorry for the off. :ohwell:
 
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Fun? Not really. I would wipe it off and try again. That's a terrible spread job. I've seen butter spread on toast with better skill than that photo..


It's not the photo. It's an example of poor work. See below;
View attachment 260734View attachment 260735
This is a good spread job. Just did this to show proper work.

You can only do it that pretty when your motherboard is not in the case yet.... Or when you did not even put the CPU in the socket yet as you did...:p

When the motherboard is in the case , it's harder to do, but according my CPU temps it seems I did it good enough...;)
 
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So any word on a new formulation? I've been using SYY and it's consistently -2c under Kryonaut.. But with SYY it's so thick I seem to use a lot more than any other paste. Kryonaut is similar but not as bad. MX, you only need a little and it spreads nicely. Wanting some new stuff...
 
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Some people would cringe at the sight of your CPU laid down on the carpet with no EMI shielding. :p Sorry for the off. :ohwell:
While it is carpet, those carpet tiles cover the top of my workbench and are properly grounded. :toast:
You can only do it that pretty when your motherboard is not in the case yet.... Or when you did not even put the CPU in the socket yet as you did...:p
Nonsense! I do in-system applications all the time. All it takes is a stead hand and a credit-card-edge like tool to spread it out. Easy-breezy!

MX, you only need a little and it spreads nicely. Wanting some new stuff...
Same here! Wanting a direct replacement to MX-5 with similar characteristics.
 
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Maybe I am peculiar, but I cannot trust the spread method to prevent air bubbles. Wouldn't an "X" with a small "+" provide a nearly square spread, and no danger of air pockets?
 
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Normally apply the 'X' method myself. Haven't tried MX-5 paste as I've been impressed with NT-H1 and NT-H2 pastes. These still considering decent?
 
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Normally apply the 'X' method myself. Haven't tried MX-5 paste as I've been impressed with NT-H1 and NT-H2 pastes. These still considering decent?
Yep they are both fine and use whatever method you prefer. The difference between one and another aren't worth worrying about. The same with modern thermal pastes.
 
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Maybe I am peculiar, but I cannot trust the spread method to prevent air bubbles. Wouldn't an "X" with a small "+" provide a nearly square spread, and no danger of air pockets?
I have never seen any evidence of "bubbles" trapped between the heatsink and die/IHS. This is due to the mounting pressures involved. Whether a CPU or GPU, there is no way air can remain between the heatsink and the surface being cooled unless there exists a severe concave condition on one or both of those surfaces, and then you would have a much bigger problem.

The difference between one and another aren't worth worrying about.
Pretty much this. The only reason I perform and recommend the spreading method is that it generally takes less TIM to do the job and thus less waste from excess TIM being squeezed out the sides.
 
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I have never seen any evidence of "bubbles" trapped between the heatsink and die/IHS. This is due to the mounting pressures involved. Whether a CPU or GPU, there is no way air can remain between the heatsink and the surface being cooled unless there exists a severe concave condition on one or both of those surfaces, and then you would have a much bigger problem.


Pretty much this. The only reason I perform and recommend the spreading method is that it generally takes less TIM to do the job and thus less waste from excess TIM being squeezed out the sides.
Same here, I've always been a little ocd when it comes to spreading tim. I cant stand it when I pull a block and there's wasted paste around the edges.

One day... I will attain the perfect mount and application!
 
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One day... I will attain the perfect mount and application!
Just tried something new based on another user's question. See the following.
I used very little TIM and was able to spread it out very evenly.
 
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Maybe I am peculiar, but I cannot trust the spread method to prevent air bubbles. Wouldn't an "X" with a small "+" provide a nearly square spread, and no danger of air pockets?
I still use the good old blob in the middle of the IHS method. The flip side is that it only works with square surfaces. That's why I'm a bit reluctant to buy into LGA 1700 and that's why I'm scared to repaste GPUs. :ohwell:
 
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Midlands, UK
System Name Nebulon-B Mk. 4
Processor AMD Ryzen 7 7700X
Motherboard MSi PRO B650M-A WiFi
Cooling be quiet! Silent Loop 2 280 mm
Memory 2x 16 GB Corsair Vengeance EXPO DDR5 6000 MHz @ JEDEC 4800 MHz
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon RX 6750 XT
Storage 1 TB Crucial P5, 1 TB Crucial P2
Display(s) Samsung C24F390, 7" Waveshare touchscreen
Case Kolink Citadel Mesh black
Power Supply Seasonic Prime GX-750
Mouse Cherry MW 8 Advanced
Keyboard MagicForce 68
Software Windows 10 Pro
You might be worrying too much. It's really very simple, apply TIM to all contact surfaces, attach heatsink, enjoy!
Probably. :ohwell: I could practice on a few spare GPUs I've got lying around, I just don't want to brick them by accident. I wish Nvidia took AMD's path with the corner protection bracket.
 
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