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Fan replacement for twin frozr II

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#1
I had a slightly painful accident of getting my finger into my 6950's fan. I only got a little pain but my gpu cooler got the worse end. The fan blade broke. I tried gluing it but it wouldn't stay attached even without it spinning.

So I found a fan that is identical. Same size and shape.

The one on the left is the broken one. It has a blue pmw wire, a black ground, and a yellow 12V. The one on the right is the replacement. It has a black ground, and a red 12 volt.

If I could get a few tips on attaching it where the broken fan is... i would be extremely grateful.
I have read about people wiring this exact fan as a replacement for the broken fan. They attached the black wire to black wire and the red wire to the yellow wire. How would I do that? I have very little soldering experience but have a friend who has more.

-I know it will not be pmw controlled.
-I also don't have a place to attach it on my motherboard. Even if I did, that would still need tips on what to do with the wires from where I took off the fan.
-I have electrical tape
 
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#2
How exactly did this occur?
 
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#3
I was visualizing airflow in my case, planning for a second 6950. Was feeling to airflow in different places with my hand. Phone rang, looked up, finger went in.
 
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#4
I broken fan blades off regular 120mm fans and put back on with super glue trick is you have to hold it for a bit for it to stick idk why but that's how gotten it to work but then but since this is a smaller and higher rpm idk you can try :p

Wife/kids broke my mini hdmi to hdmi adapter :(
 
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#5
Hey, what sort of glue are you using? try super glue, or you could fuse it with a hot knife, ive done that before to fix plastics,[if u feel competent ] as the gentleman dom said, it must be put under pressure until it sets for few mins ,

the trouble may be that the "new" fan doesnt have the 3 mounting brackets on it like the original, i cant tell from the foto too blurry. They are normally mounted with 3 screws etc, you may be able to remove the plug off the broken fan and wire it too the new one ?

could you post clearer picture/s, ?
 
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#6
I broken fan blades off regular 120mm fans and put back on with super glue trick is you have to hold it for a bit for it to stick idk why but that's how gotten it to work but then but since this is a smaller and higher rpm idk you can try :p

Wife/kids broke my mini hdmi to hdmi adapter :(
I used super glue. The surface was really irregular so I tried smoothing it out too. It still would not stick. I held it for over a minute.

Hey, what sort of glue are you using? try super glue, or you could fuse it with a hot knife, ive done that before to fix plastics,[if u feel competent ] as the gentleman dom said, it must be put under pressure until it sets for few mins ,

the trouble may be that the "new" fan doesnt have the 3 mounting brackets on it like the original, i cant tell from the foto too blurry. They are normally mounted with 3 screws etc, you may be able to remove the plug off the broken fan and wire it too the new one ?

could you post clearer picture/s, ?
I have read about people wiring this exact fan as a replacement for the broken fan. They attached the black wire to black wire and the red wire to the yellow wire.

The brackets are not the same. I could zip tie them or glue them to the heatsink. I don't see that as a problem
 
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#7
The trick is to cut off the connector end of the old fan and then make your connections. Once you do that you have a working fan with the same connector as the old (so just plug it into the same spot). Really the most difficult part of this is going to be securing it in the same place as the old fan and there a lot of different ways you can do that, glue being one of the easiest.
 

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#8
What size are the fans ?, http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/vga/25/turbo-module.html?c=2182

Other from some thing like that zip ties come to mind maybe with some of AC's open designed fans although you would have to take any peice of plastic around the cooler but thinking you might actually get better cooling in the end.
 
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#9
What size are the fans ?, http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/vga/25/turbo-module.html?c=2182

Other from some thing like that zip ties come to mind maybe with some of AC's open designed fans although you would have to take any peice of plastic around the cooler but thinking you might actually get better cooling in the end.
80mm fans. The fan link you gave me would work. I didn't see it till after I bought the replacement fan shown on the right in the picture. I didn't state I already had the replacement fan. Sorry
 

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#10
i have attached the fins on my amd fans lots of times with glue. use super glue. but before that clean that are with alcohol. then let it to dry for a couple of days.

i poked my finger in the fan when it was at 6000rpm. lol.. it hurt, and my finger had a deep cut :(


anyways its still stuck and spins nicely even at 6000rpm.
 
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#11
In regard to attaching the wires.

Strip a bit on each side, twist together fold it down tape it up.

Not pretty but works.
 
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#12
The fan on the right in the picture replaced the new fan. It works. Even has mildly better cooling at full bore. The remaining pmw fan clicks sometimes, I believe, from the new fan taking more voltage. Otherwise I am happy with my cheap repair. Should of taken a picture.
 
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#14
On to the OP's question.

1) Slice the wires from the old fan as close as possible to the fan. This should give you a connector that will plug into the card, with a maximum amount of wire to work with.
2) Slice the wires from the new fan as close as possible to the connector. You will end up with a fan that has a maximum amount of wire to work with.
3) Strip about half an inch (1cm) from the two wires from the new fan, and the same amount from the two wires you will use from the connector. Leave the third wire's insulation intact (you don't need it, but keep it in case you get a PWM capable replacement in the future).
4) Solder time. Before moving on make sure to get the iron heated up, and take all safety precautions. Never solder something that is connected to a live circuit!
A) If you have heatshrink tube slide it onto the wires before making the mechanical connection.
B) Lay the wires you want to solder parallel to one another, so the stripped sections overlap.
C) Twist the stripped sections into a helix, forming a strong mechanical bond. Remember, tighter the better.
D) Heat the solder joint, that you twisted into a helix, with the soldering iron. Tap the joint with the solder, until the joint is hot enough to melt the solder, and wick it into the helix to form a good electrical bond.
E) Allow solder joint to cool, performing the same process on the other wire.
F) Once cooled, cover the solder joint with either the heatshrink tube, or a tightly wound covering of electrical tape.
G) Test the wires to make sure you didn't create any bridges with your solder, then you should test the wires in operation.


As a note, since you obviously don't have much experience:
No PWM = no speed control = fans run at 100% speed all of the time. This may get noisy.
Plastics require epoxy to bond them. Super glue and the like aren't the same.
Fans spin very fast. Minor vibrations could therefore rip apart whatever joint compound you use to "repair" the fan.
Assuming the fan has an even number of blades why not rip off that blade, and the blade across from it, to get a balanced fan?

Biggest question: Why not use the fan head on your replacement on the original PWM fan? The electronic controls are all still good, so why not just replace the damaged component?
 
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#15
On to the OP's question.

1) Slice the wires from the old fan as close as possible to the fan. This should give you a connector that will plug into the card, with a maximum amount of wire to work with.
2) Slice the wires from the new fan as close as possible to the connector. You will end up with a fan that has a maximum amount of wire to work with.
3) Strip about half an inch (1cm) from the two wires from the new fan, and the same amount from the two wires you will use from the connector. Leave the third wire's insulation intact (you don't need it, but keep it in case you get a PWM capable replacement in the future).
4) Solder time. Before moving on make sure to get the iron heated up, and take all safety precautions. Never solder something that is connected to a live circuit!
A) If you have heatshrink tube slide it onto the wires before making the mechanical connection.
B) Lay the wires you want to solder parallel to one another, so the stripped sections overlap.
C) Twist the stripped sections into a helix, forming a strong mechanical bond. Remember, tighter the better.
D) Heat the solder joint, that you twisted into a helix, with the soldering iron. Tap the joint with the solder, until the joint is hot enough to melt the solder, and wick it into the helix to form a good electrical bond.
E) Allow solder joint to cool, performing the same process on the other wire.
F) Once cooled, cover the solder joint with either the heatshrink tube, or a tightly wound covering of electrical tape.
G) Test the wires to make sure you didn't create any bridges with your solder, then you should test the wires in operation.


As a note, since you obviously don't have much experience:
No PWM = no speed control = fans run at 100% speed all of the time. This may get noisy.
Plastics require epoxy to bond them. Super glue and the like aren't the same.
Fans spin very fast. Minor vibrations could therefore rip apart whatever joint compound you use to "repair" the fan.
Assuming the fan has an even number of blades why not rip off that blade, and the blade across from it, to get a balanced fan?

Biggest question: Why not use the fan head on your replacement on the original PWM fan? The electronic controls are all still good, so why not just replace the damaged component?
Thank you. Although this is late and irrelvant to me now, I hope this helps someone else. This is exactly what I was looking for back then, and I wish you could of told me this. That is a good question. I wish I did just try to replace the head instead of replacing the fan.