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Fan specs in Gigabyte 1080 xtreme waterforce?

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Hello everyone,

This is about the Gigabyte GTX 1080 xtreme gaming waterforce 8G
(http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5919#kf)

Ordered one now (yes now, don't ask, lol) and while in wait, i'm trying to find out what fans i can use to replace its stock one.
Since the water cooling kit used for this card is not specified (no brand, no model), i'm obviously stuck/left at guessing.
Does anyone here know the values for:
- fan Max. Input Power?
- fan Max. Input Current?
- fan Voltage?

If the internet is anything to go by, the cooling kit is supposedly an OEM CoolerMaster, except that doesn't really help in determining said values..
In /guesstimating mode? The cheapest CoolerMaster water cooling kit (with 120mm fans) out there is the Seidon 120, specs for which i have found and cover me (reasoning being that if the cheapest CM kit can take the fan i'm after*, then the card probably can too). I'd still like to make sure if possible, don't want to burn the circuit.
*Max. Input Power 3,6 W, Max. Input Current 0,3 A, Voltage 12 V

If anyone has any info, i would really appreciate it guys. My thanks for reading :)

@Gigabyte-Gaming here's to hoping you see this

edit: 01/22/17
Never learned the maximum Ws/As, but i can at least testify that the fan --can-- be safely replaced. Am running a Noctua in the original's stead now and all is well. Just do keep in mind some knowledge in electronics is required to make the switch (would not have been able to do it myself).
 
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It is a pretty standard 120mm fan, but the connector is not standard.
 
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Thanks for replying man; splitter's not an issue.
Am aware of the fan's dimensions; as per OP, it's max Ws, Vs and As i was after :)
 
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DSharp

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Hey Aenra,

I have the Waterforce GTX 1080 which I bought back in September. It's been a great card and good overclocker. The other day I was switching out cases when it started leaking. It's leaking about middle way through the tube. It's the one which has several zip ties on it to keep the fan cable attached to the tubing. I'm not sure if that had something to do with it or not but the tubing is REALLY cheap. For an $800 card I have to say I was surprised to see them use such a flimsy material for such an important function. Needless to say I'm pretty disappointed.

I called Gigabyte today and the guy says to start the RMA online. I asked him how I'm supposed to mail him the card when it's leaking all over the place. He says "good point" and then puts me on hold to ask someone. He comes back to tell me that they sell a TON of these cards and I'm the first one in the entire USA with a leaky card :rolleyes:. Then he tells me they want me to send them pictures of the leak before they'll accept the RMA. There's black fabric covering the tubing so you can't even see anything. He said he was gonna email me instructions on how to RMA the card and where to send the pictures but I have not received an email...

I started looking online and I'm seeing how poor Gigabyte's support seems to be. There's lots of complaints with people talking about how they like to get out of repairing your device and basically send it back to you unrepaired with an excuse on how it's "out of warranty". I was kind of thrown off when he asked me when I purchased the card. I'm thinking, does it matter? It came out in 2016 and has a 4 year warranty! This is the first issue I've ever had with any of their products that needed an RMA.

Before I send it in I'm looking at aftermarket solutions like you. I'd be interested in what you find or what you decide to go with since it's starting to look like sending them the card will be a giant disappointment. Also who knows how long it will even take if they do decide to repair it.

I've been a huge Gigabyte fan since the AMD Athlon X2 days, overclocking on my Gigabyte socket 939 mobo and Nvidia 6800 (Ah how far we've come lol). I've built all my PC's since then with Gigabyte components but I think this may be my last depending on how their customer service pans out with this issue I'm having.
 
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Hey D,

I'm sorry to hear that, must suck.. I hope they get you sorted man.
Am like you, have installed multiple Gigabyte products, have never had the slightest of issues thus far. Can always happen though :(

Assuming i ever get a response (doubt it, silence everywhere, including their official forums, lol) i will make sure to post it here as well, no worries.
Be warned though, i'm simply after replacing the fan, which -is- possible.
What you're after is a different thing altogether and that's if you're lucky (don't really know if it's even possible, if you unscrew the card lid, you will see why yourself). Either way, you need first see if you can have the card replaced. Tinkering of this level voids any warranty.
 
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Look for fans with high static pressure
 
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Thank you eidair, but i'd rather not get into SP vs hybrids, when to choose which and why; not the topic. I do however appreciate your replying.

As per the OP, it's fan max amps, voltage and watts i'm after :)
 

DSharp

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I'm sorry I totally did hijack your thread. I would imagine that the fan voltage specs wouldn't matter if all you want to do is replace the 120mm fan with an aftermarket version.

The fan on my radiator says 12v 0.50 amps. 20170112_184606.jpg
 
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@DSharp dude you're awesome! Thanks for that pic! Still doesn't tell us the maximum values the card's circuit can handle, but judging by the numbers on your fan, i'm personally covered. Now i can order me one! (point was to -hopefully- order a fan before the card arrived, save me some extra days of wait)
In the off chance this helps you (if card replacement is no longer an option) i'd recommend this beast: http://noctua.at/en/nf-f12-industrialppc-3000-pwm
Just the one, you don't need push-pull config. To help you out a bit more:
- someone is bound to tell you Noctuas are noisy. Ignore them; google tests done with them and see for yourself that the DB output is near identical to that of other brands
- someone may tell you 3k RPM is overkill, go for 2. Ignore them; best way to maintain your fans is to disable software that turns them on and off (wears them down like nothing else), keep them constantly on. That being the case, you're left with deciding which fan produces the most pressure at the lowest RPM possible. Hence the above suggestion
- someone may confuse you with static pressure vs air flow specs. Ignore that too, we've since moved on to much improved hybrid models; case depending of course, but for a radiator fan, above suggestion does wonders (about 5-7C lower temps. Yep, as you read it)
- someone may confuse you with sleeve pressure, ball bearing, or some other term. You need not worry about that either, we've since improved further: http://noctua.at/en/sso-bearing
- someone will mention cost. They will be right; but as always in life, you get what you pay for

As for hijacking, not an issue. Just literally meant what i said, you're taking it to a different level. Did you unscrew the card's top cover, see what i meant? If you want some visual aid prior to doing it (remember my warranty warning), maybe this will help, best i've managed to find thus far:

Way you describe it? I don't think the tubes can --safely-- be replaced on their own and frankly, i'd never risk it myself. So you'd probably need to replace the entire cooling kit; pump, rad, the whole thing. Meaning you'd need a new 1080-compatible cooling kit, which can be found. Just not the one to tell you if whichever model you pick (not that many out there) is the one you need for this specific board (haven't done it, so couldn't advise now could i).
Were i in your shoes, i'd ask in multiple forums first, overclockers.co.uk as well. Do remember to come back and post any updates if you don't mind?

edit: About the quality.. while i've never held one in my hands, an image is a thousand words. I knew the cooling kit was subpar. But:
1) this is the only 1080 that water cools everything, not just the processor. And it does so without forcing you to a custom build (am referring to EK model cards)
2) this is the only 1080 that due to the above does not have an on-board fan (always, always a fucking issue for me. First fan to start rattling is always the gfx card's one. And i'm OCD about my PC cleaning, so no, it's not dust accumulation; it's simply the fan positioning. Worst place ever)
3) it sports higher guaranteed clock rates than other water cooled cards. For example, it beats the sea hawk (MSI) by a mile
4) it is a LOT cheaper than others of this tier (not a consideration for me usually, but what with all the other benefits..)
5) and you learned this the hard way sadly; i knew that if it functioned, i wouldn't have to worry about the future. Why? Because i never, ever 'uninstall' water cooling kits. You only do that when you want to trash them. Forget what they say, safe is install and forget. If you need to remove it, chances are you'll probably need to replace it. You may get lucky with qualitative products, but with OEM chinaware such as this specific one? Never

Anyway, thanks again for that pic man, much obliged :)
 
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DSharp

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@Aenra Hey thanks for asking. So Gigabyte accepted the RMA and I finally did receive an email from the tech support guy a few days later. However, how am I supposed to ship the card when it's leaking coolant? I emailed them back to ask how to do this but haven't heard back yet. The leak is quite small so I can't exactly drain it. I wish there was an easy way I could fix it instead of mailing it. Any ideas on how I could repair it myself?
 
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@DSharp Man i don't think it matters to them.. pump won't be refurbished, they're gonna trash it the minute they get it (board i can't say, but that too is no longer your concern). You wanna be sure, i don't know, in your shoes, i'd probably use the transparent nylon wrap i use for covering food/tapperware. Cut small horizontal strips, tie them round and round the tube's leaking spot, tight as you can. Use a tie wrap last, make sure they're fastened together. Then pack the whole thing inside a water-proof bag if you've got any? Not for Gigabyte, for the postal guys. They see a package leaking, they may have to open it for safety reasons.

Anyway, am assuming you're happy they'll at least get you sorted. To be honest, i had my doubts :)
Do remember to come back and tell us how it went and how long it took?
 

dwearle1

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Hello everyone,

This is about the Gigabyte GTX 1080 xtreme gaming waterforce 8G
(http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5919#kf)

Ordered one now (yes now, don't ask, lol) and while in wait, i'm trying to find out what fans i can use to replace its stock one.
Since the water cooling kit used for this card is not specified (no brand, no model), i'm obviously stuck/left at guessing.
Does anyone here know the values for:
- fan Max. Input Power?
- fan Max. Input Current?
- fan Voltage?

If the internet is anything to go by, the cooling kit is supposedly an OEM CoolerMaster, except that doesn't really help in determining said values..
In /guesstimating mode? The cheapest CoolerMaster water cooling kit (with 120mm fans) out there is the Seidon 120, specs for which i have found and cover me (reasoning being that if the cheapest CM kit can take the fan i'm after*, then the card probably can too). I'd still like to make sure if possible, don't want to burn the circuit.
*Max. Input Power 3,6 W, Max. Input Current 0,3 A, Voltage 12 V

If anyone has any info, i would really appreciate it guys. My thanks for reading :)

@Gigabyte-Gaming here's to hoping you see this

edit: 01/22/17
Never learned the maximum Ws/As, but i can at least testify that the fan --can-- be safely replaced. Am running a Noctua in the original's stead now and all is well. Just do keep in mind some knowledge in electronics is required to make the switch (would not have been able to do it myself).

Just one question on this: did replacing the fan void the warranty? I've always been under the impression that if you alter the product in any way from the original at manufacture, that it voids the warranty. Just wondering....
 

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Just one question on this: did replacing the fan void the warranty? I've always been under the impression that if you alter the product in any way from the original at manufacture, that it voids the warranty. Just wondering....

Apologies for the belated reply.. Don't know, never cared tbh
These things, you plug in, see if they power up; they do, you stress test them at stock settings; they pass that too, usually all's fine, congrats, you've just entered the gray zone of maybes and nots, should something ever occur, sometime in the distant future. I'm not a medium. Since all was well, i was O.K. with doing this.

@peche thanks man, didn't see your post until now, lol.. bit too late now, but still good to know :)

Since i posted again anyway, may as well add the Noctua got me about 6 degrees celsius less (as compared by having both at identical fixed RPM percentages) since performing the swap. Five bucks per degree lower, you decide.
 

peche

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@peche thanks man, didn't see your post until now, lol.. bit too late now, but still good to know :)

Since i posted again anyway, may as well add the Noctua got me about 6 degrees celsius less (as compared by having both at identical fixed RPM percentages) since performing the swap. Five bucks per degree lower, you decide.
no need to thank fella, we are here to help each other!
also about the fans, i'll swap some coolermaster sickleflo or jetflo and call it a day, actually i dont care about loudness on my rig,

Regards,
 
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actually i dont care about loudness on my rig,

Regards,

Agreed.. If silence needs come at the cost of cooling, no, i don't care about noise either ^^
If i can have it as a bonus, extra, sans any disadvantages, then sure!
 

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Agreed.. If silence needs come at the cost of cooling, no, i don't care about noise either ^^
If i can have it as a bonus, extra, sans any disadvantages, then sure!
i mostly game with headset... so dont care about noise....
 
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DSharp

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@DSharp Man i don't think it matters to them.. pump won't be refurbished, they're gonna trash it the minute they get it (board i can't say, but that too is no longer your concern). You wanna be sure, i don't know, in your shoes, i'd probably use the transparent nylon wrap i use for covering food/tapperware. Cut small horizontal strips, tie them round and round the tube's leaking spot, tight as you can. Use a tie wrap last, make sure they're fastened together. Then pack the whole thing inside a water-proof bag if you've got any? Not for Gigabyte, for the postal guys. They see a package leaking, they may have to open it for safety reasons.

Anyway, am assuming you're happy they'll at least get you sorted. To be honest, i had my doubts :)
Do remember to come back and tell us how it went and how long it took?
So big props to Gigabyte. They replaced the hoses and shipped it back to me. Took about two weeks. Very happy and will continue to be a customer and recommend them :respect:
 
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Good to know! :D
 

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Hey, I hope people can still see this after 2 months of this thread not being active... is it actually possible to replace the stock fan on the Gigabyte GTX 1080 Waterforce?
 

DSharp

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Hey, I hope people can still see this after 2 months of this thread not being active... is it actually possible to replace the stock fan on the Gigabyte GTX 1080 Waterforce?
I'm sure it's possible but I'm unsure if it's soldered to the PCB or if it's attached to a fan header. Have you looked around for any tear-downs? I remember looking a few months back but didn't find anything.

*EDIT*

I just found this. Once the cover is off it looks like it uses a single 4 pin fan header attached to the PCB. Then that runs to the cover using an adapter\splitter for the fan, LED and the pump. Didn't listen to the audio as I'm at work but looks pretty straightforward with the right adapters.

Skip to 5:25 for the fan portion
 
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