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First time builder, starting with AMD Ryzen 7 3700X, decided on HYTE Y60, now choosing motherboard.

Mussels

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Not sure what decisions have been made as i havent read the whole thread yet, but as a 3700x owner the key here is that they're low wattage - they cant overclock much, but still perform fairly well.
Mines paired with a 3070 8GB on a B550 board - for gaming i just turned on eco mode, and it's working great. All core OC hurt the boost clocks, so it didnt help at all.
Someone once said that 105w label on the box is at a static 3700MHz.. I believe it. HWiNFO64 says all of my CPUs use/put out way more than what the box says.. even 58X3D can do 143w PPT..
That 3700Mhz is the base all core clock, that they'll run at with the stock cooling, while the TDP is their thermal design - not the power.
65W TDP means it's meant to average 65W long term, but they peak higher (around 90w)

AMD just have three ranges, 45W, 65W and 105W - each with their own boost value that goes higher, but not above the next tiers stock limit. The 142W max is only when you have PBO enabled.
Some board makers screw with things and ignore the default limits out of the box and crank PBO to the CPU's hard coded maximums, which causes heat issues on CPUs like the 5800x.
Those limits can be lowered in PBO but raising them won't do anything on the 65W CPUs - those hard coded limits keep it in a pretty good range for temperatures and performance.



All you're really focusing on is: Do not get a total trash tier board that is universally hated, as some boards couldnt even run a 45W CPU at stock. Always google the board and find out.
What you're paying for is features - it would have cost me $200Au for an A520, but i paid $300Au (still a ripoff, ITX is expensive) to get B550 with 2.5Gbe, wifi 6E and a tiny bit of RGB.
 
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Not sure what decisions have been made as i havent read the whole thread yet, but as a 3700x owner the key here is that they're low wattage - they cant overclock much, but still perform fairly well.
Mines paired with a 3070 8GB on a B550 board - for gaming i just turned on eco mode, and it's working great. All core OC hurt the boost clocks, so it didnt help at all.

That 3700Mhz is the base all core clock, that they'll run at with the stock cooling, while the TDP is their thermal design - not the power.
65W TDP means it's meant to average 65W long term, but they peak higher (around 90w)

AMD just have three ranges, 45W, 65W and 105W - each with their own boost value that goes higher, but not above the next tiers stock limit. The 142W max is only when you have PBO enabled.
Some board makers screw with things and ignore the default limits out of the box and crank PBO to the CPU's hard coded maximums, which causes heat issues on CPUs like the 5800x.
Those limits can be lowered in PBO but raising them won't do anything on the 65W CPUs - those hard coded limits keep it in a pretty good range for temperatures and performance.


All you're really focusing on is: Do not get a total trash tier board that is universally hated, as some boards couldnt even run a 45W CPU at stock. Always google the board and find out.
What you're paying for is features - it would have cost me $200Au for an A520, but i paid $300Au (still a ripoff, ITX is expensive) to get B550 with 2.5Gbe, wifi 6E and a tiny bit of RGB.
For Ryzen 7 5800X PBO, I used Lian Li Galahad 240mm AIO that was reviewed from https://www.techpowerup.com/review/lian-li-galahad-240-aio-liquid-cpu-cooler/6.html

Lian Li Galahad 240mm AIO is slightly superior when compared to my older and higher priced Corsair H115i Platinum RGB 280mm AIO that is used for my Ryzen 9 7900X.
 
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Picked up the Y60 case today. Bought the Ryzen 7 5800X3d, which I plugged into the motherboard and attached to the case. I also bought a CPU Cooler, iCUE H100i RGB ELITE (240mm). Does anyone know if that CPU Cooler goes on the top or to the side (right of the motherboard)? I tried watching a bunch of YT videos that don't seem to be too much help (I'm hoping it's not a compatibility issue). Do I need to have fans both on the top and side (right of the motherboard) on the Y60?

Bought 970 EVO Plus NVMe M.2 SSD. However, I did not add it to the motherboard because it seems that the motherboard did not include the m2 screw (if that's what it's called). I'll need to get that and also thermal paste for the CPU cooler. Finally, bought and installed Corsair Vengeance RGB RT DDR4 2x16 GB.

Another note is that my motherboard did not seem to have come with a backplate (if that's what it's called). I saw some YT videos where that part of the motherboard was shown. I'm not exactly clear if that's something that's needed or if the parts that came with the CPU Cooler will be sufficient. Here's what I mean by backplate:

1685168239021.png
 
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Most third party cooling solutions have a backplate and mounting mechanism of their own.

Your AIO does not need that backplate, it needs only the back portion, then replace the front with the nuts and standoffs, apparently. Follow these mount instructions:


Check if it's in your motherboard box, it should be there. If it isn't, then you will probably need to find a way to get one.
 
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Picked up the Y60 case today. Bought the Ryzen 7 5800X3d, which I plugged into the motherboard and attached to the case. I also bought a CPU Cooler, iCUE H100i RGB ELITE (240mm). Does anyone know if that CPU Cooler goes on the top or to the side (right of the motherboard)? I tried watching a bunch of YT videos that don't seem to be too much help (I'm hoping it's not a compatibility issue). Do I need to have fans both on the top and side (right of the motherboard) on the Y60?

Bought 970 EVO Plus NVMe M.2 SSD. However, I did not add it to the motherboard because it seems that the motherboard did not include the m2 screw (if that's what it's called). I'll need to get that and also thermal paste for the CPU cooler. Finally, bought and installed Corsair Vengeance RGB RT DDR4 2x16 GB.

Another note is that my motherboard did not seem to have come with a backplate (if that's what it's called). I saw some YT videos where that part of the motherboard was shown. I'm not exactly clear if that's something that's needed or if the parts that came with the CPU Cooler will be sufficient. Here's what I mean by backplate:

View attachment 297787
If I have a Y60 case, I'll mount the CPU cooler on the front side since Y60 supports bottom intake fans.

Bottom fans to cool the GPU.
Front-side fans + AIO to cool the CPU.
Top and rear fans for exhaust.

From source

g1d7o4etamt81.jpg

In this example, the CPU fan is mounted on the front side as an exhaust configuration.

I generally dislike side-mounted GPU card due to constraining GPU fans' intake airflow.
 
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I'm hoping to have all the parts by or before this weekend. The last part I am waiting for is the retention mounting bracket that goes on the back of the motherboard (see picture). In my head, I kind of expected to spend more time shopping around, but with a lot of the parts, I did not see significant difference between used and new. I got the RM850x Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply and I started putting the parts together, I'll finish plugging the cables for the PSU on Friday. I noticed that the Y60 case covered some of the outlets on the PSU (see picture) (or maybe I have the PSU facing in the wrong direction). I hope that won't be an issue.

1685587635569.png
 
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I'm hoping to have all the parts by or before this weekend. The last part I am waiting for is the retention mounting bracket that goes on the back of the motherboard (see picture). In my head, I kind of expected to spend more time shopping around, but with a lot of the parts, I did not see significant difference between used and new. I got the RM850x Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply and I started putting the parts together, I'll finish plugging the cables for the PSU on Friday. I noticed that the Y60 case covered some of the outlets on the PSU (see picture). I hope that won't be an issue.

View attachment 298636
Yea that might be a problem. First the RMx series is great. It looks like you have the newer model (RMx Shift Series) with the power connectors on the side instead of the rear of the unit.
So it looks like the PSU gives you two 8-pin CPU connectors and three 8-pin PCIe connectors. If your GPU needs 3 PCIe connectors you have a problem.
That blockage to the power connectors looks like a bracket for an HDD cage. Is it removable? If not you may have to drill out the rivets to remove the bracket.
Perhaps you can post a picture of the rear of the case?
(edit)
You might be able to flip the PSU around so the fan is on the inside however it looks like you would block airflow to the PSU fan if you do that - that would be bad. The Shift Series is new from Corsair (with the power connectors being on the side) and looks like you found some incompatibility with your case but if you don't need the power connectors that are blocked then you probably don't have to worry or make any modifications to your case. I would return the RM850x Shift and get a normal RM850x.
 
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eidairaman1

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Its mounted wrong
 
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It does appear that there is room on the bottom (below the PSU) so that the cables would fit if the PSU was flipped over, which would mean that fan would face the inside (towards the motherboard). I don't know if I need all of the power connectors. The PSU is store bought, so I may end up getting it exchanged.
 

eidairaman1

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It does appear that there is room on the bottom (below the PSU) so that the cables would fit if the PSU was flipped over, which would mean that fan would face the inside (towards the motherboard). I don't know if I need all of the power connectors. The PSU is store bought, so I may end up getting it exchanged.
Ok from the image you need to rotate the psu to the left so the cables face the inside of the case...
 

Mussels

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I did not see significant difference between used and new
Whenever prices drop, people want to sell for what they paid, not what they're worth vs new items
With the GPU prices dropping and then new hardware being disappointing, the second hand market is chaotic with decent priced options being snapped up, and then only the overpriced junk remaining.
I got a 3070 for $400 Au, and i'm seeing 10 and 20 series GPUs for the same price daily (Including cards like 1660 supers)


You could look into a smaller PSU, i bought my fractal because it was so much smaller than competing corsairs, despite matching them in reviews.


Fractal Design Ion+ 2 Platinum 860W PSU Review - Introduction (guru3d.com)
860W (960W peak) in the tiny (for ATX) size of 150mm in length, 150mm in width, and 86mm in height

The RM850x is 150mm x 160mm x 86mm

being 2CM shorter and 1CM narrower, sure adds up when it comes to fitting in the cables. Keep dimensions in mind if you do have to exchange, and look for an equally performing product in a more compact size.
 
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I'm hoping to have all the parts by or before this weekend. The last part I am waiting for is the retention mounting bracket that goes on the back of the motherboard (see picture). In my head, I kind of expected to spend more time shopping around, but with a lot of the parts, I did not see significant difference between used and new. I got the RM850x Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply and I started putting the parts together, I'll finish plugging the cables for the PSU on Friday. I noticed that the Y60 case covered some of the outlets on the PSU (see picture) (or maybe I have the PSU facing in the wrong direction). I hope that won't be an issue.

View attachment 298636
Correct orientation:
1685603210472.png
 

Mussels

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LOL I mentioned that in my reply I guess I should have included pictures for comparison.


Nice cable management!
That's just a random picture from the ddg search.
 
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Retention mounting bracket came in today. So I was able to install the CPU Cooler.

1685673312458.png

And also the graphics card.

1685674055024.png
 

eidairaman1

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I just told him to rotate the psu to the left earlier.

So what was funny @A Computer Guy !???

Oh!
Does he have the PSU rotated 90 degrees off?
... or those new SHIFT PSU's that have the cable ports on the side by accident?


RM850x on amazon
View attachment 298696

Doesn't look the same at all
View attachment 298697



Edit: yep he got a shift
Entirely different PSU, and why the cables dont fit. They're designed for corsairs cases in a single orientation only.
RM850x SHIFT 80 PLUS Gold Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (corsair.com)
RMx Series™ RM850x — 850 Watt 80 PLUS® Gold Certified Fully Modular PSU (corsair.com)
View attachment 298698View attachment 298699
Ok proprietary bullshit
 
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I just told him to rotate the psu to the left earlier.

So what was funny @A Computer Guy !???
Honestly I thought you were making a joke. (I had already identified it as an RMx Shift before your post and if you rotate it then you would also rotate the mounting points out of position.)
If the RMx Shift included mounting holes and power connectors on two sides that would be nice so it would work in any case allowing orientation in the traditional manner.

Retention mounting bracket came in today. So I was able to install the CPU Cooler.

View attachment 298823
And also the graphics card.

View attachment 298824
I would remount the rad with tubes down if you can.

Also it's difficult to tell from the photo but make sure your AIO PWM cable is plugged into your connector for the AIO_PUMP
( as indicated in your manual )

1685682652455.png
 
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I followed the MB manual when I was connecting that part, so hopefully I got it right.

I got the regular RM850X and connected some of the cables. It's been a little bit of a pain because I didn't see any quick guide for which of the cables I needed to use and which ones needed to be left over. This is what I have so far.

1685754858496.png


1685754879082.png


Edit. I got the ATX connected, 1 PCIe (to GPU), 1 EPS/ATX12 8 pin (to MB), 1 6-pin cable (connects to the SATA cable).

Edit 2. When I connect it to a monitor and hit the power button, all of the fans, including GPU fan, start spinning and after about 30 seconds they stop and the only light that remains on is the motherboard one. But I'm not seeing anything on the monitor after I hit the power button.
 
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Mussels

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because I didn't see any quick guide for which of the cables I needed to use and which ones needed to be left over
Well of course - what quick guide is going to know what hardware you're using?

You're going to need to test without that riser cable or a PCI-E 3.0 only GPU to rule it out being a problem, and you need to confirm the BIOS was updated and supports the CPU as well

BIOS flashback can be weird, i've noticed i needed to clear the CMOS before it worked on a few boards. Clear, connect power, push flash button. Sometimes needed one power on and off, then it would work.
I'm unsure why, but i've seen this behaviour on new boards out of the box as well as ones previously used.
 
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1685768856482.png


Plugged into Power but no GPU

1685768901673.png


And after pressing the Power button.

1685768942855.png


Riser cable unplugged, power still connected.

1685769003501.png


After after pressing Power.

1685769050778.png



Not sure if that's what was meant. Don't know anything about BIOS, so I'll look that up.

--

Edit. This is what I get on display after pressing Power.

1685774181246.png
 
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No i mean the GPU may not work in the riser cable, and give you no display
You need a directly connected GPU or a PCI-E 3.0 GPU to test that out

My ITX system suffered from this, it'd auto negotiate PCI-E 4.0 and the included riser cable couldnt do it - so that was it, no GPU detected.
I had to install my GTX 1070, get it booting, lock the BIOS to 3.0, power off, change GPU. Annoying AF.

Post code 02 means the PC has booted and is in the BIOS, which implies it's detected no storage with an OS and waiting on user input
 
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I'll give it a try, it might be a little tough to connect the GPU directly to mb. I do have the Radeon(TM) RX 550 from my other computer that I can also try. I tried without one of the RAM sticks, but still no display. Same result after I took out the mb battery for 10 minutes and put it back in. I may end up just taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together to make sure I didn't miss a cable or incorrectly connect one of them.
 

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I'll give it a try, it might be a little tough to connect the GPU directly to mb. I do have the Radeon(TM) RX 550 from my other computer that I can also try. I tried without one of the RAM sticks, but still no display. Same result after I took out the mb battery for 10 minutes and put it back in. I may end up just taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together to make sure I didn't miss a cable or incorrectly connect one of them.
Run all of your parts on a non conductive table to verify it works, it is also known as breadboarding, put the motherboard on the box it came in so the gpu can be plugged in directly, read your motherboard manual on how to do a Clear CMOS/Bios reset.
 

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Radeon(TM) RX 550 from my other computer
That'll do it, lock the PCI-E lanes to the x16 slot to 3.0 in the BIOS.

Even official 4.0 risers can have trouble, been many recalls on that issue.
It's a royal pain in the ass to fix, on a CPU without onboard graphics - I suffered this on my ITX rig too, so i know the pain of being unable to slap a card into a second slot for graphics.
(Does make me dream of a USB graphics card that works in the BIOS, but that'll never happen)
 
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