Discussion in 'General Hardware' started by kenkickr, Mar 10, 2009.
too late to back out your liable for every penny muhahaha
Ive got two 360's,
the first one got the E-74 RRoD - so i put it in my draw, after a failed attempt at the towel manouevre,
the 2nd, well its a brand new one around my in-laws, with all the GH and RB games, im getting it back when GH: Metallica comes out.
12v fan mod
This morning I went up to my friends to check out which rom drive he has since he gets a message on Halo 3 "unreadable disc" on every map and he decided he wanted me to do the 12v fan mod. Looking around I found that the red and brown plugs are the positive lines so cut them off at the fan plug. Stripped a little off of both ends, tied them together, and used about a 6" cable from a ethernet cable which I was going to solder to the board:
Red and Brown wires cut from fan plug and heatshrunk to ethernet cable:
Now, as I said before I was thinking about soldering to the board as I saw on xbox-scene and illama but I just didn't feel like screwing up his board considering I just fixed it. Looked and looked for alternatives and found info on using the DVD power source wires but no tutorials on it. If you want to use the DVD power source cables then read on my friends
I took out my multimeter and started testing the wires with the Xbox plugged in, NOT TURNED ON, just plugged in to it's power supply. Found that when looking at the plug(you should see two guides at the top and the right two spots have no wires in them) the bottom left cable has a constant 12v. Unplugged power from system, spliced the cable, stripped some wire off the ends, and tied those two to the other end of the wire I attached to the red and brown wire on the fan. Plugged it all back in and BAM...fans are really moving some air.
DVD Power source mod pics:
After doing this mod he called me about an hour later and said maps are loading, except Constant or Construct..don't remember, and he's now been playing for a few hours now so I think I will not be talking to him for awhile
Hope this helps anybody out that wants to do the 12volt fan mod but doesn't want to solder.
I am not liable for any damages that can occure. Do this at your own risk and THIS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY
So you modded the exaust fan to use more power from the DVD drive? Or did you add a new fan to the mix?
More power from the DVD from power cable.
Nice, I added a fan to mine. It took forever and I spliced the wires from the existing fan. If I had a camera I would take a couple pics that would help this thread out.
I installed a 40mm intake fan up front near the power key. Just mocked up this with powerpoint:
Most of the time M$ has the ohms on the laser to low something like 4.6 is what mine was at.
I have found on most xbox 360 drives (have owned 3 and modded 3 others) that the drives were all around 4.
after i lowered the potential meter on the dvd drive. it increases the laser intensity and i never have dirty disc errors now
dont lower it TO much or you WILL burn the laser.
That's some good info Freak. Looks like next wed on my day off I'll be taking a look at that.
Koolance made a LC Kit for the Xbox 360, the Dual Cooler kit and the Complete kit, hope that helps
I've not yet tried the kit or anything other than air on my Xbox 360's, although I will be doing it at some point
Hey fella, not to put you down here as you've done a damn good job there on your friends Xbox -- That bolded and italised text there is the most important part of the quote, mainly so people know, when doing this overheating method, if you get 2 flashing red lights it is not a good sign, this simply states that the CPU or another component has got far too hot and has cut the power, not fully cut the power but lowered it so the system can cool off. Since the CPU heats up fast than the GPU on the xbox, the GPU doesn't get the sufficient overheating it needs if the xbox goes 2 lights.
Therefore with me, I tend to hook everything back up together, instead of have the fans in their original place at the back, I take them out, and have them mounted on top of the DVD-rom, CPU heatsink and part of the back outter case, with the airflow from the fans cooling the CPU heatsink the GPU can heatup sufficiently and get what it needs from the "fix" of this method, I've used this method so far on 7 xbox's and all been sweet, all still running well
So remember, so long as the 3 red lights are flashing it's then a good sign for the 15-20mins heatup stage, after that time has passed, as stated 15min+ for cooldown, put the fans back in original place and you should be good to go then
EDIT: I think I might give the 12v fan mod and may even try adding another fan myself like mlee49 has, as two xbox's of mine have seriously crappy airflow from the fans, and with this, to keep them running well, I need to have the outter top part of the xbox case open
the reason I put that there is you want the GPU to get hot enough to start mending the BGA's but I do understand what you mean...your critisism. Thank you for pointing that out and thanks for the thanks.
Also, I can still not believe his maps are loading fine now after the 12v mod so it makes me believe alot of the rom issues might/could be do to the heat the gpu heatsink is pouring out. I'm thinking about taking a heatsink off of a single slot graphics card, with a fan, and thowing it on there. I'll keep you all posted on that one.
Hehe, you're welcome matey
Thanks for your thanks too, much appreciated, definitely worth while keeping an eye on this thread to see how it goes
Within the next week or two I will have pictures up. One of my girlfriend's coworkers son is getting the RRoD so I will take pictures of his while I work.
lucky you, as soon as I put custom heatsinks in my 360 to stop rrod from happening the dvd drive gave out 3 weeks later
That sucks! How did it give out(lens, etc)?
Great thread. I suggest to anyone that wants to reflow their solder. A great way to check if the solder is reflowing is to put a piece of solder on to the green area of the board. That green covering on the board is called a solder mask meaning solder will not adhere to the surface of the solder mask. This is a way to check and see if your temperatures are correct and that the board/solder has been heated to the correct temperature. Shortly (within seconds) of seeing the solder bead up then you can stop applying heat and allow it to cool.
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