[FIXED] Ugh. Knocked off a capacitor of a Gigabyte mobo but not sure how it's attached!

[Rob94hawk]

Pulled a socket 775 motherboard out of one of my rigs to put a new cpu in and I knocked a small capacitor off!
However it doesn't appear to be soldered on. I can figure out the orientation but iss there a way to repair this? Are they glued on?
Attached pic below. Appreciate the help. Thanks

 

[Fouquin]

This is a surface mount cap. The legs under the plastic base were soldered to those two pads. You can't really put a heat gun to these ones because the plastic will melt before the solder, but you sometimes can get away with just taping them back onto the pads and hoping that it's enough to make the connection. If you have an iron but no solder set the temp high and just tap each exposed portion of the legs for about 2 seconds. If you do have some solder you can just retin the pads and stick it back on.

 

[FreedomEclipse]

Yeah.... Im sure they dont use super glue to put things together in mobo factories...

You are gonna need a soldering iron or a heat gun (i prefer a soldering iron for precision soldering - but mainly because i dont have a heat gun) and maybe some solder

im gonna throw caution and say you should be find the contact points on the board and heat it up with the soldering iron and stick the cap back on. There should be enough residual solder to handle it.

 

[1freedude]

Break out the solder pen. Purple goes towards the transitor, or toward the square end of the printed box. You'll prob get away with a simple melt it together technique.

 

[Rob94hawk]

Thank you! Happy to know it can be fixed! Another question. Want to apply fresh grease on the heat pipe since it is over a decade old. What pins are these? Can I reuse them? The rest of it is screwed on.

 

[ArdWar]

Looks like one of those spring loaded thumb pins. Should be removable by pinching its prongs on the backside.

As for the caps, the usual rework procedure is just put the cap on top of the pads and then heat the two metal tabs with soldering iron. Most of the time you don't even need additional solder tin. Hope the mobo doesn't use those pain-in-the-ass-to-melt lead-free solder .

 

[FreedomEclipse]

You can apply fresh grease to the heatsinks cooling the chipsets but the VRMs might be running with a thermal pad.

Grab yourself some MINUS PAD 8 from Thermal Grizzly and cut it to size and you should be fine -- before you make your purchase remember to remove the heatsink and measure the thickness of the old pads so you know which one to get as they come in different sizes. a 1mm pad should do though.

 

[8BitZ80]

Thank you! Happy to know it can be fixed! Another question. Want to apply fresh grease on the heat pipe since it is over a decade old. What pins are these? Can I reuse them? The rest of it is screwed on.

Two very important tips when removing those spring-loaded push pins:

1. Keep a hold of them while removing them. The pin and spring can go flying and will be very hard to find if you're not careful.
2. Be VERY careful to not scratch the board, I've done damage with needle nose pliers while pinching and pushing those pins through.

The chipsets could use fresh thermal paste, but the VRMs will have thermal pads and shouldn't be messed with.

 

[Rob94hawk]

Man that was rough! I was shaking like crazy! Too bad there is no way I can check for continuity to see if I was successful.

You can apply fresh grease to the heatsinks cooling the chipsets but the VRMs might be running with a thermal pad.

Grab yourself some MINUS PAD 8 from Thermal Grizzly and cut it to size and you should be fine -- before you make your purchase remember to remove the heatsink and measure the thickness of the old pads so you know which one to get as they come in different sizes. a 1mm pad should do though.

Which of there 3 should I use on the copper heat sinks? The Coolaboratory & the Noctua are old as hell though but it’s all I have ATM.

 

[FreedomEclipse]

Use the noctua. No need to waste LM on chipsets

 

[Zach_01]

Isn’t Conductonaut the only LM TIM? I think Kryonaut is not.

And I also think it’s better for really cold applications. Could be wrong about this tho.

 

[Rob94hawk]

Haven't been able to test it out yet. Might be a couple of days. Stay tuned.

 

[Bones]

Isn’t Conductonaut the only LM TIM? I think Kryonaut is not.

And I also think it’s better for really cold applications. Could be wrong about this tho.

Kryonaut is not LM and it's best used for subzero stuff, in fact that's what it was created for in the first place, hence the "Kryo" part of it's name.

LM cannot be used for anything going subzero period, it can't handle the cold and will lead to hardware death. LM also has detrimental effects on what it's used with, already seen and proven as such which is why I'll never use it for anything.

A good TIM like MX4 or Noctua NT-H1 as examples is perfectly fine for any desktop use you can name and is even suitable for subzero.
I've used the MX4 Carbon stuff for that and it did fine plus it's not that expensive, lasts for a long time, easy to apply with no special prep required and will not have any detrimental effects like LM does, Noctua NT-H1 is the same way.

 

[Zach_01]

Kryonaut is not LM and it's best used for subzero stuff, in fact that's what it was created for in the first place, hence the "Kryo" part of it's name.

LM cannot be used for anything going subzero period, it can't handle the cold and will lead to hardware death. LM also has detrimental effects on what it's used with, already seen and proven as such which is why I'll never use it for anything.

A good TIM like MX4 or Noctua NT-H1 as examples is perfectly fine for any desktop use you can name and is even suitable for subzero.
I've used the MX4 Carbon stuff for that and it did fine plus it's not that expensive, lasts for a long time, easy to apply with no special prep required and will not have any detrimental effects like LM does, Noctua NT-H1 is the same way.

That I was thinking... thank you!
I was just talking about @FreedomEclipse mentioning LM when the OP showed a pic of Kryonaut.

 

[Rob94hawk]

Ok so far all is well after the capacitor fix. Couldn’t get the push pins out so I just left the heat pipe alone before I damage the motherboard any further. Swapped out the old E6750 for the Q9650. Gonna test a few things out then get rid of Vista and install Windows 10.

 

[xrobwx71]

Ok so far all is well after the capacitor fix. Couldn’t get the push pins out so I just left the heat pipe alone before I damage the motherboard any further. Swapped out the old E6750 for the Q9650. Gonna test a few things out then get rid of Vista and install Windows 10.

Nice job on the fix!