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Fried VRM on MSI GeForce GTX 1650 Super Gaming X

Burzovar

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I'm planning to re solder a new VRM chip and give this old card to a friend but I'm having troubles identifying the VRM voltage. It is L1117LG UHB8V0603 Can some of you guys help, or give un advice where can I find spare or equivalent part?
 

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Thats really not hard to unsolder. just heat the top pad with an iron tell the solder is liquid and pull on it with some tweezers so that its no longer connected. Then bend the whole thing back and forth so that the legs break off. use the iron on the individual legs and pull them off with the tweezers once the solder is liquid. easy.

edit: another way if you dont want to bend the unit to break the legs off is to us some liquid flux. just apply it to the legs and use an iron and sweep it across the legs than pull the unit off. you just half to be sure to keep the legs hot enough but that should not be a problem sense the component is rather small.
 
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Thats really not hard to unsolder. just heat the top pad with an iron tell the solder is liquid and pull on it with some tweezers so that its no longer connected. Then bend the whole thing back and forth so that the legs break off. use the iron on the individual legs and pull them off with the tweezers once the solder is liquid. easy.

edit: another way if you dont want to bend the unit to break the legs off is to us some liquid flux. just apply it to the legs and use an iron and sweep it across the legs than pull the unit off. you just half to be sure to keep the legs hot enough but that should not be a problem sense the component is rather small.

That way is very dangerous for me. I hope you have done this before & have become more of an expert in that method. Practice makes perfection & every user has they own method that they are comfortable with.

Don't forget to check for a short before you solder the new component in. ..Good Luck
 
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Before doing any replacement, check for a short circuit somewhere around there. ICs and MOSFETs don't often catastrophically fail like that if there's not a large surge of current going through the wrong place. The problem could quite possibly lie elsewhere and you're only seeing the results of it. There is also the possibility of another short circuit on the circuitry that was regulated by that regulator because it blew up.

P.S By the way, why do you care about the voltage? You only need to replace that regulator, the voltage stays the same and it will work.
 

Burzovar

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@OP it's L1117LG.

How are you going to de-soldered it?

This is what I found online L1117LG - Niko Semiconductor Datasheet VIEW DOWNLOAD - DATASHEETBANK

What the hell, there's lots of them on EBAY, choose wisely.

EXAMPLE: 10pcs L1117LG Ajustável 1A (= LM1117) Ldo, SOT223 Regulador de Niko-Semi Lf | eBay Don't pick this one it's just an example. I don't want to be responsible for wrong parts turning up including fake parts..
With soldering station and a lot of patience

Before doing any replacement, check for a short circuit somewhere around there. ICs and MOSFETs don't often catastrophically fail like that if there's not a large surge of current going through the wrong place. The problem could quite possibly lie elsewhere and you're only seeing the results of it. There is also the possibility of another short circuit on the circuitry that was regulated by that regulator because it blew up.

P.S By the way, why do you care about the voltage? You only need to replace that regulator, the voltage stays the same and it will work.
It took me about 3 and a half hours, probing everything. No shortage as far as i know
 
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It took me about 3 and a half hours, probing everything. No shortage as far as i know
That's great! A lot of people just see a failed part and get straight to replacing it, only for it to blow up again.
Rule No.1 of electronics repair: Always try to see if you've located the actual source of the problem and not just the effects of it!
 
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With soldering station and a lot of patience

I have a full infrared workstation, but I did a little trick with the lamp the other day. I removed the lamp from the main unit & used it like a hot air gun.
Wow to my amazement it worked. It's faster than a real hot air station & I was not using a Pre-heater. Less than 10 seconds to remove a capacitor.

WORKSTATION: AOYUE BGA9000A_BGA Rework Systems- (aoyue3d.com)
 
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Burzovar

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@OP it's L1117LG.

How are you going to de-soldered it?

This is what I found online L1117LG - Niko Semiconductor Datasheet VIEW DOWNLOAD - DATASHEETBANK

What the hell, there's lots of them on EBAY, choose wisely.

EXAMPLE: 10pcs L1117LG Ajustável 1A (= LM1117) Ldo, SOT223 Regulador de Niko-Semi Lf | eBay Don't pick this one it's just an example. I don't want to be responsible for wrong parts turning up including fake parts..
Unfortunately Ebay doesn't ship to my country.

I have a full infrared workstation, but I did a little trick with the lamp the other day. I removed the lamp from the main unit & used it like a hot air gun.
Wow to my amazement it worked. It's faster than a real hot air station & I was not using a Pre-heater. Less than 10 seconds to remove a capacitor.

WORKSTATION: AOYUE BGA9000A_BGA Rework Systems- (aoyue3d.com)
That's a very nice peace of equipment, would love to have similar... in the future maby
 
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Unfortunately Ebay doesn't ship to my country.


That's a very nice peace of equipment, would love to have similar... in the future maby

I get someone to buy things for me when I don't have access. Search elsewhere can't be that hard to get hold of or put in a equivalent part that does the same job. ..I use components from dead cards/motherboards.
 

Burzovar

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With heaps of patience and a basic soldering station (fine cone tip) I managed to desolder it.

I get someone to buy things for me when I don't have access. Search elsewhere can't be that hard to get hold of or put in a equivalent part that does the same job. ..I use components from dead cards/motherboards.
I have a pile of old motherboard (6-7 or more), just for parts and what not. I thought that GPU's have somewhat proprietary parts.

I get someone to buy things for me when I don't have access. Search elsewhere can't be that hard to get hold of or put in a equivalent part that does the same job. ..I use components from dead cards/motherboards.
I found some that I can buy, but l1117lg have suffixes (L1117LG-1.8 L1117LG-3.3 L1117LG-5 L1117LG-2.5) and as I hobbyist I have no clue what is the difference or which to choose...
 

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I found some that I can buy, but l1117lg have suffixes (L1117LG-1.8 L1117LG-3.3 L1117LG-5 L1117LG-2.5) and as I hobbyist I have no clue what is the difference or which to choose...
You can see here that the suffix is the regulator voltage rating.

If you open one of the datasheets (they are all the same), you'll find the exact markings for each device at the top of page 5. From what I can see from the first screenshot in your original post, your GPU seems to have the adjustable range one (the one without any suffixes). It also makes sense, since manufacturers almost always prefer adjustable IC's that they can implement in dozens of different boards.
 

Burzovar

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You can see here that the suffix is the regulator voltage rating.

If you open one of the datasheets (they are all the same), you'll find the exact markings for each device at the top of page 5. From what I can see from the first screenshot in your original post, your GPU seems to have the adjustable range one (the one without any suffixes). It also makes sense, since manufacturers almost always prefer adjustable IC's that they can implement in dozens of different boards.
Thanks for the explanation, I really appreciate it.
 

Burzovar

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I get someone to buy things for me when I don't have access. Search elsewhere can't be that hard to get hold of or put in a equivalent part that does the same job. ..I use components from dead cards/motherboards.
I found two VRM's from gigabyte motherboards
L1117LG with second row marking of QB21J1001
 

Burzovar

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I soldered the new VRM...
The good news are that no "magic smoke" escaped and the fans spin.
The bad news are that there's no video output. Voltages are ok, everything seems alright, but I have a suspicion that something inside the processing unit is fried.
 
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