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Ghetto Mods

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Don't buy HP printers they include firmware that blocks the refiled cartridges.
Mine doesn't block it all. I have an HP desk jet , You just download their utility and uncheck "genuine HP ink only" problem solved. you need the software to use some functions of the device anyway, like scanning is easier , atleast for me with the program , so i just took a couple minutes to look through it, & i found this page...i havent bought a XL564 ink set that costs over $15 in years (thats $15 for ALL 4 inks cartridges)

Capture.PNG
 
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Since I don't have earphones with L-shaped 3,5 mm jack, I used slightly better and more aesthetic solution to increase the lifespan of earphones. No more medical tape. :D It really works! The solution is heat-shrinking tube. I went to a few hardware and DIY stores near me and when asking for that product they looked at me like I felt from Mars and am talking some gibberish. So I ordered a bunch of them on ebay from China for less than 1 € with free shipping.

This simple but effective modification will definitely increase the lifespan of any earphones and it looks much better than medical tape, electrical tape or duct tape.
View attachment 114649
Not always, but sometimes using strain relief just pushes the point of failure to the end of the strain relief. Hope not in your case.
 
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Mine doesn't block it all. I have an HP desk jet , You just download their utility and uncheck "genuine HP ink only" problem solved. you need the software to use some functions of the device anyway, like scanning is easier , atleast for me with the program , so i just took a couple minutes to look through it, & i found this page...i havent bought a XL564 ink set that costs over $15 in years (thats $15 for ALL 4 inks cartridges)

View attachment 114666
This thing was not available for my model. Is it a specific software only for unlocking or its included in your printer specific installation software?
 
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Had a spare 240mm aio. So i decided to ghetto mod this on a RX580 8GB.



Had to hack the VRM heatsink a bit apart, tie-wrap the waterblock onto the GPU, used kronaut on both VRM & GPU.



Kept a part of the shroud including fan (so the fan is actually controlled) and to keep the VRM's down. Funny part is that now at full stress pushing 200 watts it barely reaches 40 degrees lol.



The somehow result. No fans needed. Barely reaching 60 degrees on furmark / for 15 minutes. Clocks are 1450Mhz @ 1.1V or so. Anything above requires higher voltages thus more heat.
 

JrRacinFan

Served 5k and counting ...
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Anyone ever vinyl wrap any parts or cases? Got a link or two to share of where to buy (other than an auto parts store)?
 
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The perforated sheet metal was restricting a lot of airflow in the front of the case so it had to go.
I cut it out, hole-to-hole style, filed the edges and secured them with thick tape, so I don't cut myself later on. I Also painted an old PSU grille just so I can cover the hole with it, and prevent anything from going into the fan.
IMG_20190220_183308.jpg
 
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The perforated sheet metal was restricting a lot of airflow in the front of the case so it had to go.
I cut it out, hole-to-hole style, filed the edges and secured them with thick tape, so I don't cut myself later on. I Also painted an old PSU grille just so I can cover the hole with it, and prevent anything from going into the fan.
View attachment 116980
That's not really all that ghetto. It may be custom but looks very well done!
 
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Made a diy am4 bracket with the help of my dad. An aluminium sheet metal with 2 stainless steel bar to reinforce further. Left diy version and right original for board. Need a bracket that can fit my low profile cooler which does not came with one and one that could accept an m4 screw. Wonder if this can fit now. This surely would not warp my motherboard.

P1050200.JPG
P1050201.JPG
 
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Had a spare 240mm aio. So i decided to ghetto mod this on a RX580 8GB.



Had to hack the VRM heatsink a bit apart, tie-wrap the waterblock onto the GPU, used kronaut on both VRM & GPU.



Kept a part of the shroud including fan (so the fan is actually controlled) and to keep the VRM's down. Funny part is that now at full stress pushing 200 watts it barely reaches 40 degrees lol.



The somehow result. No fans needed. Barely reaching 60 degrees on furmark / for 15 minutes. Clocks are 1450Mhz @ 1.1V or so. Anything above requires higher voltages thus more heat.
Upgrade:



4 extra wraps and a piece of paper, to make the pressure of the AIO heatsink even better. When running furmark at extreme burn-in with POST-FX enabled the chip is consuming a rough 260W lol. The VRM's are pulling 20 Amps and reaching up to 65 degrees. The core itself sticks at 60 degrees, but i cant get her any higher then 1460Mhz at 1.175v. It's setup as 1.2V in Wattman but i cannot go any higher. Can i bios edit the card to a safe 1.25V or so? I've seen VRMTool but that is crazy dangerous if you dont know what your doing.
 
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I don't have a pic of it, but a while I was upgrading my AW 17's GPU, I used a Firepro M6100 as a temp card, and this was before I knew about Hwinfo being able to spin the laptop's fans, so I took of the bottom panel and mount a giant office fan on the bottom. 95C max temps.
 
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Made a diy am4 bracket with the help of my dad. An aluminium sheet metal with 2 stainless steel bar to reinforce further. Left diy version and right original for board. Need a bracket that can fit my low profile cooler which does not came with one and one that could accept an m4 screw. Wonder if this can fit now. This surely would not warp my motherboard.

View attachment 117635View attachment 117636
I've always found DYI projects interesting subject matter. Very cool!
 
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Upgrade:



4 extra wraps and a piece of paper, to make the pressure of the AIO heatsink even better. When running furmark at extreme burn-in with POST-FX enabled the chip is consuming a rough 260W lol. The VRM's are pulling 20 Amps and reaching up to 65 degrees. The core itself sticks at 60 degrees, but i cant get her any higher then 1460Mhz at 1.175v. It's setup as 1.2V in Wattman but i cannot go any higher. Can i bios edit the card to a safe 1.25V or so? I've seen VRMTool but that is crazy dangerous if you dont know what your doing.
Seems like you lost the silicon lottery right there as I thought most 580's were good up to almost 1500 under good cooling. I know I managed to get my brother's card that high under air though it was only bench stable.
 
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Seems like you lost the silicon lottery right there as I thought most 580's were good up to almost 1500 under good cooling. I know I managed to get my brother's card that high under air though it was only bench stable.
Uh yeah i can do 1500Mhz but i woud'tn consider it stable if it cant pass extreme furmark. I see alot of people claiming to have 1500Mhz core but i'm sure 70% out of those are not even stable in a burn session. 1.175V is a tad too low in my consideration to have it 24/7 stable.

At least i can say at 1450 it's doing what it's supposed todo. i just wonder on how i can increase to voltage to for example 1.225v. Wattman is doing 1.2 maximum but on Hwinfo it's still 1.175v.
 
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Alright done painting my diy AM4 backplate. Huge ghetto post here.


P1050203.JPG



My old mounting on my low profile cpu cooler. Using layers of electrical tape as ghetto washers with m4 screws. Gonna add the backplate now. I got to ghetto mod as the original way of assembling the cooler the arms of the cooler mount have to face inwards which is not possible as I have motherboard choke in the way as shown below. Flipping it outward does not allow me to screw it in with its original screw as its no longer aligned. I got to take out the original screw and use m4 screw and nuts.

P1050205.JPG

P1050206.JPG


I did plenty of mods assembling my small form factor itx pc. Among them is the exhaust fan mod where I have my fan suck air out of the case. I use rubber pads and I cut it to shape to give enough spacing so the fan blades never hit the heatsink, I think it looks pretty good.



P1050207.JPG



I need to create an airduct for my fan to exhaust out the hot air so I use some door cushion rubber.

P1050208.JPG



Need a way to protect the base of my case and its pcie riser. I found that I can use an anti-slip mat cut to shape for my itx motherboard. Looks quite nice. Now my motherboard have more support from this and its non slip nature.

P1050214.JPG



Now back to assembling my my diy backplate. I realised its not really ideal with the stainless steel bars. I used super glue to stick it on don't have any JB weld material around. It is not quite strong enough to stick on after I start screwing things in. Maybe I should try making the backplate out of steel instead next time. But I don't have the tools for it. I made the hole out of the aluminium sheet using a screwdriver lol. It works quite fine with aluminium being soft enough, Since the glue is not strong enough I can't over screw much. Still despite that I have a huge improvement in mounting pressure and mounting sturdiness vs just screw without backplate. I am seeing a 5C drop in cpu temperature in full load now. I am pretty surprised how much it improve with more mounting pressure.

P1050215.JPG
P1050216.JPG



All done and time to test now.

P1050218.JPG
 
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Do let us know how it goes!

Motherboard boots up fine thankfully and I ran prime95. The fan don't ram up quickly now and at prime95 load the fan is spinning 300rpm lesser than max speed. I got about 5 to 8C of improvement in temperature. Now my cpu do not break 90C in prime95 despite the lower fan speed. Temp hover around 85C to 88c now in Prime95 in my case. Previously it would hit 93C even with full fan speed. I know even that may sound high but I am running prime95 on ryzen 1700 on all 8 cores on a cooler 47mm tall which is impressive. I think now with this mod it should be better than my Ryzen spire stock cooler which is much taller. Day to day use its much more quieter now with the improve temps. I can really feel the heat on the heatsink is soaking up now. Ambient temps in my area is about 28C for reference.

I think I can shave another 2C with a stronger mounting. I'll ask my dad to make another one out of stainless steel now lol. Perhaps another round 2. This low profile heat direct pipe touch cooler really shine with the diy mod.


I wonder how my modded cooler with this "super backplate" fare against an official one one like a noctua l9i.
 
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So after the r7 1800x running and struggling to get an AMD bracket for am4 Motherboard.( Been called my friends but no luck) This is what I did combination of thermaltake bracket came from Cpu block and corsair bracket. It looks nice.

I did cut the ek am4 bracket from ek supremacy Evo
But failed due to needing long screws. Rip bracket. Shame on me.

15524154335733036795857127347361.jpg
IMG_20190312_175219.jpg
IMG_20190312_175240.jpg

15524154335733036795857127347361.jpg
 
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So after the r7 1800x running and struggling to get an AMD bracket for am4 Motherboard.( Been called my friends but no luck) This is what I did combination of thermaltake bracket came from Cpu block and corsair bracket. It looks nice.

I did cut the ek am4 bracket from ek supremacy Evo
But failed due to needing long screws. Rip bracket. Shame on me.
You can also just rotate the block so the Intel mounting lines up with the holes in the board. This' what I do for my Intel only waterblock, worked fine so far.
Though you may loose the closest dimm slot depending on how far the tabs stick out.
 
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I just realize my hdd laptop sit with no screw, and the annoying is i can't find the right screw coz the space is pretty tight
So i use plastic sachet to make sure it sit right
Screenshot_20190323-065808_QuickPx.jpg
 
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Reuse plastic from medicine for mousefeet, just add double tape
Screenshot_20190331-093622_QuickPx-01.jpeg
 
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I go buy the sliders for furniture and cut them to fit. The square or round sliders that glue to the bottom of the kitchen chairs or the sofa.
actually i don't want to pay any just for plastic, all you buy is just double tape
 
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Got a dead laptop from a customer. Spent nearly 4 hours diagnosing and then fixing 3 bad power rails, replacing dead audio codec, and soldering in a new NIC which previous "specialists" decided was no longer needed.
The last one was a cap on 1.5V DDR3 rail, and after breathing too much flux fumes and isopropyl I totally spaced out that it was the wrong height ))) Only saw it when the laptop was nearly completely assembled.
IMG_20190411_170035.jpg

I'll probably replace it tomorrow, even though the owner of this laptop wanted me to leave it like that :D:D:D
 
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That's not ghetto now if you'd have said you fixed it with a ball of string some zip ties and a roll of duct tape and some tinfoil from the hat I'd be impressed but at the end of the day it's Job well done to get it working again so congrats mate
 
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