Ghetto Mods

[basco]

not really mod but works good.
old xigmatek achilles socket 775 cooler on x99 \ 5960x without proper mounting mechanism for other sockets replacing my 3 year young corsair h100gtx aio that is kaputt.
first 2 days i had a 1kg weight on it and after no more necessary

 

[Grog6]

Is that you?

Yes.

Fat Bastard voice: "I'm a Sexy Man!!"

Lol; We were making a carbon fiber top for a '91 Corvette.

I was changing the outer filters when my buddy took the pic.

I'll probably be wearing that to work next week; I'm a "Critical Staffmember", got my exemption letter today.

 

[delshay]

Yes.

Fat Bastard voice: "I'm a Sexy Man!!"

Lol; We were making a carbon fiber top for a '91 Corvette.

I was changing the outer filters when my buddy took the pic.

I'll probably be wearing that to work next week; I'm a "Critical Staffmember", got my exemption letter today.

It's just nice to have photo behind user.

I'v bought over 1K UKP of ceramic capacitors. I will be restacking the capacitors behind the CPU again. It's a massive range of capacitors from 0.022uF to 380uF.

It's not just for the CPU, it's also for the chipsets, memory, USB port, fan header & all voltage rail filtering.

Capacitors Voltages 2.5v, 4.0v, 6.3v & 16v.

I just modded a Gigabyte PCI-E Wi-Fi card returning the missing LEDS. It's up & running, but I'm still modding it as it looks like some indicators are still missing. You could soon be looking at the world first RGB LED indicator on a PCI-E Wi-Fi card when I figure out which indicators are missing.

I got the idea when a user on TPU stated he could not tell if the Wi-Fi card was still active other than go into windows to show it's status. The idea behind this is, if data is being received/transmitted it will show via the LED on the back of the card. If you look at most modern PCI-E Wi-Fi cards, most do not have LED indicators. They have taken it away probably due to cost cutting.

 

[Grog6]

I think I'm going to wear that getup to the store later; Is taped up Tyvek dressout gear too much for the public, do you think?




I have some spare rolls of ceramic caps, mostly 0.1 and 0.01uF; where are you?

I've done the multicolor led thing before; red green combos years ago where I had a spot for one ley, but two signals I wanted to see activity on.

Red is one only, green was the other, and shades of yellow was working.

Using three, you could get a lot of info, and the eye training doesn't take as long as you'd think.

 

[Valantar]

It's just nice to have photo behind user.

I'v bought over 1K UKP of ceramic capacitors. I will be restacking the capacitors behind the CPU again. It's a massive range of capacitors from 0.022uF to 380uF.

It's not just for the CPU, it's also for the chipsets, memory, USB port, fan header & all voltage rail filtering.

Capacitors Voltages 2.5v, 4.0v, 6.3v & 16v.

I just modded a Gigabyte PCI-E Wi-Fi card returning the missing LEDS. It's up & running, but I'm still modding it as it looks like some indicators are still missing. You could soon be looking at the world first RGB LED indicator on a PCI-E Wi-Fi card when I figure out which indicators are missing.

I got the idea when a user on TPU stated he could not tell if the Wi-Fi card was still active other than go into windows to show it's status. The idea behind this is, if data is being received/transmitted it will show via the LED on the back of the card. If you look at most modern PCI-E Wi-Fi cards, most do not have LED indicators. They have taken it away probably due to cost cutting.

I would think part of it is also to avoid the annoyance of randomly blinking multicolor LEDs projecting onto the wall behind the PC, though that might just be my taste.

 

[Grog6]

As long as you know what those LED's are, it's not randomly blinking.

Information is there; it's up to you to decypher and use it.



I build LED's into my circuits I design, so I can see if there 's a problem at a glance.
But I know what they mean.

I put buffered LED's on I2C lines; I can take a digital camera, and sweep it across the led, and get a picture that tells me what that last I2C transmission was, before it locked up.

 

[delshay]

As long as you know what those LED's are, it's not randomly blinking.

Information is there; it's up to you to decypher and use it.



I build LED's into my circuits I design, so I can see if there 's a problem at a glance.
But I know what they mean.

I put buffered LED's on I2C lines; I can take a digital camera, and sweep it across the led, and get a picture that tells me what that last I2C transmission was, before it locked up.

My very first modding of LEDS was in my amiga days, many years ago on a floppy drive. Could not tell what the drive was doing, so i modded the LED & circuit on the floppy drive so that read & write had different colour. Read was green & writing to floppy was red. So when writing to the floppy it would flick from green to red in real time. If reading it will just show green.

Replaced the single colour LED to dual colour. From the outside you could not tell the drive was modded.

 

[Darthgrey]

I saw this card once on local PC aftermarket

 

[Mac2580]

In 2018, my friend had a "broken" GTX 760 lying around, while using a GT 440. After popping the card into my pc i realised the fans were barely spinning. Not willing to spend any money on a possibly broken card i tied a coolermaster sickleflow and his only case fan to the heatsink. Hes still using the card currently and ignored my advice to get replacement fans.

 

[Animalpak]

Der frankencooler.

I saw this card once on local PC aftermarket

View attachment 150405View attachment 150406View attachment 150407View attachment 150408

 

[Jism]

I saw this card once on local PC aftermarket

Thing is it would actually work,

but i woud'nt trust the hotglue around hot components lol.

And here's my contribution, lol.

 

[Valantar]

As long as you know what those LED's are, it's not randomly blinking.

Information is there; it's up to you to decypher and use it.

You misunderstand me. I just don't see "wifi card is sending data" or "wifi card is receiving data" as valuable or usable information. Any modern system will be sending and receiving data near constantly. And if it stops, well, there are more accessible and more informative ways of telling and diagnosing what caused the connection to drop out.

 

[Grog6]

Yes,but a dropped/interrupted packet looks different than a successful packet, on the led.

I've sat there before working a problem, and waiting for an led to change is way faster than watching a window of ethernet traffic.

I'm usually looking for "Different", but you get to know what a router ping looks like.

I was one of those geeks that knows what all the sounds the modem made were, lol.

I still hear those on the fax machine at work; I can usually tell when it's not going to connect 30 seconds before the message comes up on the screen of the printer.

 

[delshay]

I think I'm going to wear that getup to the store later; Is taped up Tyvek dressout gear too much for the public, do you think?




I have some spare rolls of ceramic caps, mostly 0.1 and 0.01uF; where are you?

I've done the multicolor led thing before; red green combos years ago where I had a spot for one ley, but two signals I wanted to see activity on.

Red is one only, green was the other, and shades of yellow was working.

Using three, you could get a lot of info, and the eye training doesn't take as long as you'd think.

Should have given you the thumb up for the offer of your capacitors. There's not a lot of space left on the back of the motherboard, so I want to use the capacitors I have here. Some of the capacitor's I have here are very expensive, so I want to use those.

Also I'm in London UK.

 

[micropage7]

this adapter has bad contact area so i grab some UTP cable and improve it, so far it works pretty good

 

[lexluthermiester]

View attachment 153518
this adapter has bad contact area so i grab some UTP cable and improve it, so far it works pretty good

You should solder it all to make sure of solid contact.

 

[Jism]

Yeah, dont mess with high voltages and potential, current.

 

[micropage7]

You should solder it all to make sure of solid contact.

That's the point, since i don't have solder
But i'll recheck it again to make everything is safety enough

 

[Apocalypsee]

I used Linksys WUSB54G that constantly disconnected and losing packet after few minutes of using. I disassemble and the actual IC is HOT and I cant hold my finger more than a second. Putting small RAM heatsink with thermal paste isnt cutting it that it requires fan soldered to USB 5V to cool it down. I'll update this thread if I found that mod. I think I took a picture of it before.

I found the pic of this mod I did, it was back in 2011. I did one more mod; soldering a bigger antenna. The fan is soldered directly to USB port 5V.

 

[hat]

Reminds me of what I did to my RT-N66U. I drilled a big hole in it with my hole saw kit and mounted an 80mm fan to it. I modded the fan to have a USB connector instead of your normal 3 pin fan header so I could power the fan with the USB port on the router. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture, and it's tucked away in the closet now...

 

[Keullo-e]

I also used a fan @ 5V patent with an USB 3G dongle back in the day, it ran too hella hot so some airflow kept the speeds more stable.

 

[delshay]

Wi-Fi LED UPDATE

Below is a simple mod sofar. I grab the parts from older Gigibyte Wi-Fi card & added it to a up-to-date Wi-Fi card from the same company. Wi-Fi LED is working but it only lights up when it is turned on. Bluetooth LED should also be working (not tested) & I should have changed the colour, but this was an experiment as I want to know what the unused solder pads do, so it's early days for this mod. LED's are surface mounted as the though holes have been removed & is not present on modern Wi-Fi cards from Gigibyte. Bracket is sprayed black to match the case.

HOLD-ON: There's something else here.

The card right at the bottom with custom on,off switch is also modded. The standard PCI-bracket has been removed & a "vented PCI-bracket" has been installed, also sprayed black in colour. It's doing something the help cool the R9 Nano as you can see dust build-up at the vent holes.

 

[delshay]

Nice work!

I keep a few kinds of solder for doing such things; a few degrees melting point can make a huge difference.

You know you want the smallest values closest to the PCB, with larger values further out; this maximizes the loop inductance vs impedance for a given value.

All ceramic caps are inductive over their resonant frequency, so you want to stack those resonances across a wide range.

This stack would be the trace of the lowermost lines, all the way across; so usable out to ~200MHz, really.

I've been thinking about what you are saying here & I know you are right but I have come up with a brand new idea.

I'm going remove all of the capacitors & start again. This time to get as many low capacity capacitors nearest to the pin (pads) as possible I'm going to add "two capacitors" per set of pads. So what I will have is two capacitors sharing a set of pads side by side. This will make it more compact & dropping the current level stack from 4 to 3.

The question is, if I force in all the low capacity capacitors at PCB level should I add back even more low capacity capacitors on the second level. If I don't add back the second level of capacitors, the Panasonic Polymer will be closer to the CPU socket.

I have bought the latest Panasonic capacitors which has just been released to the pubic & the new custom built array is ready to be installed on the old or new planned arrangement.

Below is the brand new custom built array with ceramics on the rear holding it together. This is about "absolute precision" almost perfect alignment. Capacitors on the PCB will be adjusted to make this array go in smoothly.

There is also a second custom built array all ceramic (no photo) which will also sit on the back of the CPU, but this is for the memory.


Binned Capacitors 1.2m Ohms ESR (Lowest ever recorded 2v SMT Polymer capacitor)

 

[Decryptor009]

So i unscrewed my front glass panel off my CIT chassis, this opens airflow like a nuclear bomb can destroy a city...

But i need to mesh it up, any idea for good meshing to glue to the front of the case?

 

[Ahhzz]

So i unscrewed my front glass panel off my CIT chassis, this opens airflow like a nuclear bomb can destroy a city...

But i need to mesh it up, any idea for good meshing to glue to the front of the case?

View attachment 156235

I've repurposed a couple of these on occasion...

Office Depot Brand Mesh File Sorter Black - Office Depot

This collection gives your desk a sleek contemporary look. Plus see through mesh saves you valuable time when retrieving documents and office essentials.

www.officedepot.com