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Ghetto Mods

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It´s not much ghetto mods in my pc. But i dit some home made wiring so i can power on and off my two fan controllers as i see fit and used some different komponents to make my pc works as i wanted it.

This is the wiring i made my self. It´s basic two molex exstention cables i put between molex power from PSU and to molex power to fan controllers. Cut the 12 volt wire and exstended it and put on/off switch between the 12 volt power. That do so i can turn power on and off.

IMG_20211203_192043.jpg


And backside of the case where the swiches can be seen.
IMG_20211203_192123.jpg


To do the same with sata HDD/SSD, i got a simple sata controller with on/off switch build in.
IMG_20211203_192412.jpg


I neded more USB 2.0 headers than my Asus Dark Hero has. So i used this NTXT to split one 2.0 header up to 3. Yes i know it´s up side down, but had to do it else power and other wires cant reasch properly.
IMG_20211203_192245.jpg


Want to se more?
Go tjeck my project build log for this system: https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...ct-2-systems-in-1-case-all-air-cooled.283169/
 

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So there's the thing technically I think I'm slowly killing the tablet I soldered on a usb cable directly to the battery connections, lithium batteries go from like 3.6v to 4.2 and I'm feeding that 5v
So get a 3.6v, 3.7v or 3.8v ac adaptor and solder it in.
 
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So get a 3.6v, 3.7v or 3.8v ac adaptor and solder it in.
I plan to, I need to route the power cable through the wall also so I will do both.

Anyway today's ghetto micro-soldering
IMG_20211218_153309.jpg

Turns out I was right in thinking my cheap Chinese cd drive bay to HDD bay had a manufacturing flaw.
The snap off points for the PCB were so close to the trace that when the separated the board's it took the trace out also it's fixed and working now but I don't intend to use it till I have some UV glue to fix in the new wire.
 
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IMG_20211220_195343.jpg

Cable is now routed nicely still not sure what to do with the power supply I'm contemplating fitting a battery pack behind the wall with some 18650 cells in parallel then charging that off usb with a BMS as finding a decent 3amp 4.2volt PSU is like looking for hen's teeth.
 
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just dunno, looks like my previous post is gone forever
after some testing i found that the better shape is U shape, easy to glue and solid contact and you have more room to place it right
20211220_201808.jpg
 
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just dunno, looks like my previous post is gone forever
after some testing i found that the better shape is U shape, easy to glue and solid contact and you have more room to place it right
View attachment 229563
Why not use aluminium out of curiosity?
 

stinger608

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Lenne

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I thought copper conducts but aluminium dissipates
That's what I remember reading too, that's why usually only the base plate of a heatsink is made of copper. Though I still remember those full-copper coolers which cost more but weren't that much better.
 

Lenne

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Copper has about twice the thermal capacity as aluminum but Silver is the best but only by a couple points vs copper.
A silver cooler would be an interesting one though not for a typical consumer. At least you could think it as an investment. :D
 
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Dissipation doesn't have a lot to do with the material itself, but mostly the heatsink's surface area and the surface temperature. Since copper conducts heat better, the temperature gradient is smaller inside the heatsink making the surface temperature higher which results in better dissipation. Aluminum is just a cheaper and lighter replacement for copper.
 
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Dissipation doesn't have a lot to do with the material itself, but mostly the heatsink's surface area and the surface temperature. Since copper conducts heat better, the temperature gradient is smaller inside the heatsink making the surface temperature higher which results in better dissipation. Aluminum is just a cheaper and lighter replacement for copper.
This. Conduction of heat to the surrounding air is a function of surface area exposure.
 
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I know these are cheap but I can't be bothered to wait for delivery.
18650-spacer-500x500.jpg


Ghetto style=
IMG_20211223_160215.jpg


I know these are cheap but I can't be bothered to wait for delivery.
18650-spacer-500x500.jpg


Ghetto style=
IMG_20211223_160215.jpg
Though the truck tyres aren't so modular and a change in design is slightly more work.
IMG_20211223_195706.jpg

Some bracing and trimming to do

IMG_20211223_201707.jpg

So a bit of modding to the BMS to handle Thai summers took the 1.5mm aluminium plate they called a heatsink off covered the back in thermal pads and used the"heatsink" they provided as a backplate then fitted my own heatsink.
Just the sensor wires to go and it's almost ready to hook up.
IMG_20211224_004944.jpg
 

Tigger

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just add dampening for my headphone using wet tissue that cleaned and dried, and so far so good, the bass kinda improve a little :laugh::laugh:
20211228_184033.jpg

20211228_184433.jpg
 
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I plan to, I need to route the power cable through the wall also so I will do both.

Anyway today's ghetto micro-soldering
View attachment 229360
Turns out I was right in thinking my cheap Chinese cd drive bay to HDD bay had a manufacturing flaw.
The snap off points for the PCB were so close to the trace that when the separated the board's it took the trace out also it's fixed and working now but I don't intend to use it till I have some UV glue to fix in the new wire.

I just want to point out that tiny switch is the same switch you get on GFX cards. If you are into modding GFX card(s) from single BIOS to Dual Bios then you need a switch liker that. I desolder a switch like that from a non working pocket portable modem.
 
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So the battery had a redesign due to size constraints not sure if this is a ghetto mod or tech purchase most probably a bit of both anyway waiting on the controller but the battery has lasted a week on half charge and is still above 13v
IMG_20220106_105303.jpg
 
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So there's the thing technically I think I'm slowly killing the tablet I soldered on a usb cable directly to the battery connections
That's not good. Just get a charging module. They cost pennies.
$0.65, and that's a "fancy" type-C model. There are generic powerbank controllers or LiIon charge modules that sell for $1/dozen. I have a boxful of these for cases if I want to put lithium ion batteries in random things.
 
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It's the antenna connections they pretty much just drop blobs of solder on the ground to avoid burning the live conductors insulation, though that is excessive and precise use of flux to avoid the live trace I must say

That's not good. Just get a charging module. They cost pennies.
$0.65, and that's a "fancy" type-C model. There are generic powerbank controllers or LiIon charge modules that sell for $1/dozen. I have a boxful of these for cases if I want to put lithium ion batteries in random things.
So many other projects going on involving lithium batteries don't know why I didn't think of that funny thing is i have one in front of me and that never crossed my mind till I read your comment

IMG_20220106_164531.jpg
 
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