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Ghetto Mods

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VR HMD naw
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20220120_163912.jpg

20220120_163802.jpg

20220120_163811.jpg

20220120_163840.jpg

20220120_163940.jpg


Patient was a Gigabyte 750Ti Windforce OC, presenting with an extremely annoying rattle in the right fan's bearing and no cooling for the VRM or VRAM. I attached some aluminum thermal-adhesive heatsinks to 2 VRAM chips, gave thermal pads to the other two. VRM got a slightly larger single aluminum heatsink, barely visible in the last photo on the right.

Fans are Foxconn 80mm ball-bearing (left), Delta 80mm FDB (right), both are massively loud at full blast and must be mobo controlled (for now) :D

This is one of those mods that's really commonplace and honestly a rite of passage, but hey it's cheap as chips and execution is as important as the idea
 
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Had some down time , so i did little custom job for meself :D
camera720_1642766014467.jpg

Crap on the left lasts maybe month if you lucky . Stainless steel piece will serve me till retirement most likely (12 more years ,ughh) cheers.
 
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adding 2nd hand TL-WA901ND wire heatsink :laugh::roll:
after several trial maybe it's a good form
20220125_054212.jpg
 
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Threads about Ghetto mods... I call them home made mods for penny pinchers! :) :laugh:
Or sometimes we can just do better.
IMG_20220128_202122.jpg

100w Bluetooth speaker made from 2x car stereo speakers, a bit of 6.5inch drainpipe, 4x Panasonic lipos and a zk mini Bluetooth amp
 
Last edited:

Ahhzz

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Or sometimes we can just do better.
View attachment 234238
100w Bluetooth speaker made from 2x car stereo speakers, a bit of 6.5inch drainpipe, 4x Panasonic lipos and a zm mini Bluetooth amp
interesting.....

I've actually got 2 tower Infiniti speakers upstairs... Wonder if I could remember which pieces are blown, and do some creative rearrangements....
 
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Those zk amps are a bargain for what they are and come in many variations
Screenshot_20220128-212804.png


Need a good idea how to fit flat speakers to a curved surface.
IMG_20220128_231440.jpg


So done most of the fitting now still need to pad out the tweeters and seal any gaps before I cover it in material.
IMG_20220129_161725.jpg
IMG_20220129_161739.jpg


Just noticed the driver was damaged in the photo thankfully all it needed was a fresh kiss

Might put some sturdy fan dust filter material over the speakers before I wrap it
 
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Processor R9 5900X (VRM-B2) @ 170W/130A/180A | Mfg wk 03/2022
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Cooling be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 w/ MX-4
Memory 2x16GB Crucial Ballistix 8Gbit rev.E (DR) @ 3800CL15-18-8-17-34-54-540-1T @ 1.45v, 1900MHz FCLK
Video Card(s) PowerColor Red Devil 6600XT, repasted w/ MX-4, stock pads
Storage 1x SK hynix Gold P31 1TB (boot), 1x 2TB WD SN550 (fast NAND), 2x 4TB Seagate Ironwolf HDD 5900RPM
Display(s) 1x Gigabyte M27Q, 1x MSI Optix G241, 1x Dell E152FPg
Case Phanteks P500A (non-digital) w/ 4x 140mm Arctic P14 PWM PST CO fans
Audio Device(s) FiiO E10K-TC (USB) -> beyerdynamic DT770 Pro (80ohm)
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W
Mouse Logitech G203
Keyboard Kingston HyperX Core RGB
VR HMD naw
Software not Windows 11
Benchmark Scores https://hwbot.org/user/machinelearning/
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20220130_002820.jpg


The ugliest test bench since 2004 (probably). Shoutouts to MSI for making terrible VRMs on AM3 so I can use their busted board as a test bench with some standoffs. This airflow is jank but optimal, memory gets massive airflow from the GPU fan overhang, CPU fan feeds right into northbridge heatsink. Featuring an Antec Earthwatts EA-500, Seasonic platform from like 2006, somehow still running without any re-capping. I screwed in the front panel section of an old NZXT case to the MSI board for some USB/audio on the other side, and one part of that same case serves as power/reset switches for boards that don't have them.

My only problem is getting USB mice and keyboard to work on this, I have to use a PS/2 keyboard to get into BIOS or do anything and I have no idea why. USB keyboard / mouse are enabled in BIOS, I'm probably missing something obvious.
 
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Processor AMD Ryzen 9 5900X (PBO enabled, no other OC) + Alphacool waterblock
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Ghetto mods aren't part of my normal approach but here we go.

NZXT H1 with external custom cooling loop for GPU (Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER Founders Edition 8GB):

NZXT-H1-custom-loop2.jpg


The cooling loop consists of
  • Alphacool Eisstation VPP (I think)
  • Noctua NF-F12 PWM chroma.Black.swap fans, x2 (with finger guard grills)
  • XSPC EX240 radiator
  • Alphacool 11738 Eisblock Aurora Acryl GPX-N RTX 2080/2080Ti FE (not visible in this shot)
Curiously the NZXT H1's back grill cover has holes drilled to accommodate the 105 mm screw placement for the radiator. I did not have to mod the back grill cover by drilling new mounting holes.

This motherboard (MSI MPG B550I Gaming Wifi) does not have a thermal sensor header so I am basing GPU radiator fan curves off of the MOS temperature which operates is a pretty narrow range.

It doesn't look so ghetto from the front.

NZXT-H1-custom-loop1.jpg


The mishmash of cooling loop fitting finishes: black, dark nickel, silver, even brass are barely noticeable from the front. There's a brass 90° fitting on the GPU waterblock that I wish were black but I'm not going to bother hunting down a replacement.

GPU temperature maxes out at 55 °C during a Heaven benchmark run. The two externally mounted GPU radiator fans max out at 875 rpm. The overall system noise is less than when there was a Sapphire Pulse Radeon RX 550 2GB card in the GPU bay.

There's still a little bit of gurgling from the Eisstation pump-res combo but it should work out the bubbles in the next 6-12 hours.

The center of gravity isn't an issue. Yeah, the Eisstation has some weight but a lot of the weight (radiator and coolant) are very close to the back grill. I deliberately mounted the Eissation on the lower fan.

Also the GPU waterblock is pretty heavy and also has a fair amount of coolant. It does not feel like it is going back. The two GPU radiator fans are also directing air toward the back (in a "pull" configuration).

I had envisioned this build in summer 2020 but it wasn't until I recently acquired a 3060 Ti that I could shove it into the NZXT H1. The 2070 SUPER Founders Edition stock cooler is noisy as hell so I'm glad I could mod this case to accommodate a mini custom loop.

The NZXT H1 drives a 4K/60Hz monitor but it's not a gaming system. It's my daily driver desktop PC.
 
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Processor R9 5900X (VRM-B2) @ 170W/130A/180A | Mfg wk 03/2022
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Cooling be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 w/ MX-4
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Case Phanteks P500A (non-digital) w/ 4x 140mm Arctic P14 PWM PST CO fans
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Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W
Mouse Logitech G203
Keyboard Kingston HyperX Core RGB
VR HMD naw
Software not Windows 11
Benchmark Scores https://hwbot.org/user/machinelearning/
20220205_135443.jpg

20220205_135517.jpg

20220205_135721.jpg

20220205_140158.jpg

20220205_140143.jpg


Had this old mATX Dell XPS 8100 case laying around, and decided to do something nefarious with it...

That old NZXT front panel segment from my "test bench" is of course strapped right to the front. This is for a couple of reasons: it looks cool (in a terrible way :D ), and also the power switch and LED for these Dell systems is on a dedicated cable which looks identical to a USB internal cable. Not compatible with a DIY board, at least not this one. For Dell OEM boards of the era (usually Foxconn) these connectors are all nicely color coded on the motherboard too so installation is foolproof. But it does add a small hurdle for weirdos like me who eventually strip it down.

I'm leaving the front plastic airflow restrictor off, because generally I like my airflow unrestricted. There are some vent holes in the side panel too which is nice.

Specs:
- ASUS M3A78-EM, unfortunately as of yet I can't find core unlock in BIOS soooo maybe this doesn't have it. This is annoying but until I cool the VRM I guess it doesn't matter much. Maybe I can crossflash, it does have a socketed BIOS chip in case I mess up (love that). Repasted with MX-2, small heatsinks for the VRM on the way soon.
- PHII 960T BE (for now)
- SK hynix Gold S31 500GB, the board is very upset about this drive for some reason and during POST reports that there's a generic malfunction. Well, it works just fine in another computer, so I'm chalking this up to SSD compatibility issues with either this southbridge (?) or this motherboard in particular.
- Seasonic Core GM-500, I'd like this 5x more if I had realized it had a sleeve bearing before I received it (my fault), I'll probably replace the fan in a couple of years just to be on the safe side. It should be reliable / fine for a while after that. At least it's quiet, and I was able to get it half price
- Arctic F9 PWM PST 92mm FDB exhaust fan, hooked up to the CPU fan header because for some reason, the motherboard thinks the CPU fan has failed otherwise, even though it spins just fine here and my AM3+ boards have no issues...
- 4x2GB G.Skill DDR2 1066, CL5-5-5-15, 2.1-2.2v (no clue what it'll actually end up at)
- Old FX-8350 stock cooler, ca. 2014

Cable management is hell in a case like this, I'm kind of used to it from dealing with prebuilts more often years ago but it needs a lot more work here. I basically stuffed it all in the front, although still better than stock airflow I suppose...

I'm thinking of taking a huge hole out of the side panel and installing either a fan directly on it, or adding a bit of mesh to give even more openings. We'll see how thermals end up once I figure out the small quirks and get windows installed!
 
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Keyboard Sades Excalibur + Taihao keycaps
Software Win 7 64-bit
Benchmark Scores Classified
View attachment 235431
View attachment 235432
View attachment 235433
View attachment 235434
View attachment 235435

Had this old mATX Dell XPS 8100 case laying around, and decided to do something nefarious with it...

That old NZXT front panel segment from my "test bench" is of course strapped right to the front. This is for a couple of reasons: it looks cool (in a terrible way :D ), and also the power switch and LED for these Dell systems is on a dedicated cable which looks identical to a USB internal cable. Not compatible with a DIY board, at least not this one. For Dell OEM boards of the era (usually Foxconn) these connectors are all nicely color coded on the motherboard too so installation is foolproof. But it does add a small hurdle for weirdos like me who eventually strip it down.

I'm leaving the front plastic airflow restrictor off, because generally I like my airflow unrestricted. There are some vent holes in the side panel too which is nice.

Specs:
- ASUS M3A78-EM, unfortunately as of yet I can't find core unlock in BIOS soooo maybe this doesn't have it. This is annoying but until I cool the VRM I guess it doesn't matter much. Maybe I can crossflash, it does have a socketed BIOS chip in case I mess up (love that). Repasted with MX-2, small heatsinks for the VRM on the way soon.
- PHII 960T BE (for now)
- SK hynix Gold S31 500GB, the board is very upset about this drive for some reason and during POST reports that there's a generic malfunction. Well, it works just fine in another computer, so I'm chalking this up to SSD compatibility issues with either this southbridge (?) or this motherboard in particular.
- Seasonic Core GM-500, I'd like this 5x more if I had realized it had a sleeve bearing before I received it (my fault), I'll probably replace the fan in a couple of years just to be on the safe side. It should be reliable / fine for a while after that. At least it's quiet, and I was able to get it half price
- Arctic F9 PWM PST 92mm FDB exhaust fan, hooked up to the CPU fan header because for some reason, the motherboard thinks the CPU fan has failed otherwise, even though it spins just fine here and my AM3+ boards have no issues...
- 4x2GB G.Skill DDR2 1066, CL5-5-5-15, 2.1-2.2v (no clue what it'll actually end up at)
- Old FX-8350 stock cooler, ca. 2014

Cable management is hell in a case like this, I'm kind of used to it from dealing with prebuilts more often years ago but it needs a lot more work here. I basically stuffed it all in the front, although still better than stock airflow I suppose...

I'm thinking of taking a huge hole out of the side panel and installing either a fan directly on it, or adding a bit of mesh to give even more openings. We'll see how thermals end up once I figure out the small quirks and get windows installed!
that case looks rocking
 
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My only problem is getting USB mice and keyboard to work on this
You may need to enable +5VSB in the BIOS. In the Power Management Setup try changing Power On Function to Keyboard 98 or Hot Key.
- ASUS M3A78-EM, unfortunately as of yet I can't find core unlock in BIOS soooo maybe this doesn't have it.
This mobo doesn't seem to support core unlocking.
 
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Memory G.skill 2x4gb 3200/2x16 gb 3600 G.skill
Video Card(s) igpu vega 11/3070 oc Palit
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Display(s) 50" LG 4k hdr
Case scratch build
Power Supply inter tech 650w 80+bronze/850 phantex pro
Software Ubuntu bionic beaver 18.04 lts/W10
It can not get more ghetto than rubber band
camera720_1644150436905.jpg

audio jack kept falling out ,well it ain't issue no more :D :pimp:cheers.
 

Ahhzz

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I wish I'd taken a picture... one of the old cards I had, I think the 9800, was seriously heavy, and I had a bit of droop on it, so I took a wooden dowel, and propped it up under the end lol
 
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I wish I'd taken a picture... one of the old cards I had, I think the 9800, was seriously heavy, and I had a bit of droop on it, so I took a wooden dowel, and propped it up under the end lol
I did something similar. I used PVC pipe though and painted it what ever colour matched the the setup. Still do that from time to time...
 
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Display(s) 50" LG 4k hdr
Case scratch build
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I wish I'd taken a picture... one of the old cards I had, I think the 9800, was seriously heavy, and I had a bit of droop on it, so I took a wooden dowel, and propped it up under the end lol
You should definetly get some brownie points for using biodegradable material :D :toast:
 
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I have a Thermaltake view 71 RGB case and just got an Ironwolf pro 16TB HDD and mounted it to the back of the case the screw hole didn't line up so I screwed in two screws and broke out the good old black electric tape how's that for ghetto mod lol
 
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Cooling be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 w/ MX-4
Memory 2x16GB Crucial Ballistix 8Gbit rev.E (DR) @ 3800CL15-18-8-17-34-54-540-1T @ 1.45v, 1900MHz FCLK
Video Card(s) PowerColor Red Devil 6600XT, repasted w/ MX-4, stock pads
Storage 1x SK hynix Gold P31 1TB (boot), 1x 2TB WD SN550 (fast NAND), 2x 4TB Seagate Ironwolf HDD 5900RPM
Display(s) 1x Gigabyte M27Q, 1x MSI Optix G241, 1x Dell E152FPg
Case Phanteks P500A (non-digital) w/ 4x 140mm Arctic P14 PWM PST CO fans
Audio Device(s) FiiO E10K-TC (USB) -> beyerdynamic DT770 Pro (80ohm)
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex III Gold 750W
Mouse Logitech G203
Keyboard Kingston HyperX Core RGB
VR HMD naw
Software not Windows 11
Benchmark Scores https://hwbot.org/user/machinelearning/
You may need to enable +5VSB in the BIOS. In the Power Management Setup try changing Power On Function to Keyboard 98 or Hot Key.

This mobo doesn't seem to support core unlocking.
I just perused through the BIOS, and it doesn't appear to have that option you mentioned. I'll look for it on my other boards that have weird USB keyboard issues (even w/ enabled in BIOS) to see if that helps, thank you.

Damn, I'll have to see if I can crossflash...
You're so right lol, I pretty much did the first thing I thought of before... Fixed, thank you!
20220206_130957.jpg

20220206_131048.jpg

20220206_131230.jpg


CPU is connected to NB heatsink, HDD is SSD and Sys is ambient temp.
 

Kanan

Tech Enthusiast & Gamer
Joined
Aug 22, 2015
Messages
3,517 (1.43/day)
Location
Europe
System Name eazen corp | Xentronon 7.2
Processor AMD Ryzen 7 3700X // PBO max.
Motherboard Asus TUF Gaming X570-Plus
Cooling Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 w/ AM4 kit // 3x Corsair AF140L case fans (2 in, 1 out)
Memory G.Skill Trident Z RGB 2x16 GB DDR4 3600 @ 3800, CL16-19-19-39-58-1T, 1.4 V
Video Card(s) Asus ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti modded to MATRIX // 2000-2100 MHz Core / 1938 MHz G6
Storage Silicon Power P34A80 1TB NVME/Samsung SSD 830 128GB&850 Evo 500GB&F3 1TB 7200RPM/Seagate 2TB 5900RPM
Display(s) Samsung 27" Curved FS2 HDR QLED 1440p/144Hz&27" iiyama TN LED 1080p/120Hz / Samsung 40" IPS 1080p TV
Case Corsair Carbide 600C
Audio Device(s) HyperX Cloud Orbit S / Creative SB X AE-5 @ Logitech Z906 / Sony HD AVR @PC & TV @ Teufel Theater 80
Power Supply EVGA 650 GQ
Mouse Logitech G700 @ Steelseries DeX // Xbox 360 Wireless Controller
Keyboard Corsair K70 LUX RGB /w Cherry MX Brown switches
VR HMD Still nope
Software Win 10 Pro
Benchmark Scores 15 095 Time Spy | P29 079 Firestrike | P35 628 3DM11 | X67 508 3DM Vantage Extreme
I just perused through the BIOS, and it doesn't appear to have that option you mentioned. I'll look for it on my other boards that have weird USB keyboard issues (even w/ enabled in BIOS) to see if that helps, thank you.

Damn, I'll have to see if I can crossflash...

You're so right lol, I pretty much did the first thing I thought of before... Fixed, thank you!
View attachment 235485
View attachment 235486
View attachment 235487

CPU is connected to NB heatsink, HDD is SSD and Sys is ambient temp.
Ugly but functional.
 
Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
1,360 (0.36/day)
Location
Romania
System Name "No name"
Processor Ryzen 2700X 50Th Anniversary Edition
Motherboard B450 Tomahawk MAX
Cooling Noctua U12P
Memory 16GB 3200Mhz
Video Card(s) RX 6600 XT Powercolor Fighter
Storage Adata 512GB SSD, WD30PURX
Display(s) AOC CQ32G1
Case SilentiumPC Signum SG1V EVO TG ARGB
Audio Device(s) ALC Codec + Maudio AV32 and Fiio E10k + Audiotehnica TAD 400
Power Supply Seasonic G650 650W
Mouse Logitech G203
Keyboard Asus Strix MX Brown
Software Windows 10 Pro x64
LGA 1700 mod for an old Noctua cooler. I first bought an Asus Z690 board that had those dual holes for cooling retention labled LGA1200 and 1700. But on closer inspection i found out that if i smooth out the channel that is cut in to the back plate i can then move the retention screws to fit an LGA 1700 layout. And it worked like a charm on a standard LGA1700 board.
a.jpg
IMG_20220203_175304939.jpg
Elegant not Ghetto at all. Preserve things = great.
Borderline ghetto i would say :p
 
Last edited:

Kanan

Tech Enthusiast & Gamer
Joined
Aug 22, 2015
Messages
3,517 (1.43/day)
Location
Europe
System Name eazen corp | Xentronon 7.2
Processor AMD Ryzen 7 3700X // PBO max.
Motherboard Asus TUF Gaming X570-Plus
Cooling Noctua NH-D14 SE2011 w/ AM4 kit // 3x Corsair AF140L case fans (2 in, 1 out)
Memory G.Skill Trident Z RGB 2x16 GB DDR4 3600 @ 3800, CL16-19-19-39-58-1T, 1.4 V
Video Card(s) Asus ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti modded to MATRIX // 2000-2100 MHz Core / 1938 MHz G6
Storage Silicon Power P34A80 1TB NVME/Samsung SSD 830 128GB&850 Evo 500GB&F3 1TB 7200RPM/Seagate 2TB 5900RPM
Display(s) Samsung 27" Curved FS2 HDR QLED 1440p/144Hz&27" iiyama TN LED 1080p/120Hz / Samsung 40" IPS 1080p TV
Case Corsair Carbide 600C
Audio Device(s) HyperX Cloud Orbit S / Creative SB X AE-5 @ Logitech Z906 / Sony HD AVR @PC & TV @ Teufel Theater 80
Power Supply EVGA 650 GQ
Mouse Logitech G700 @ Steelseries DeX // Xbox 360 Wireless Controller
Keyboard Corsair K70 LUX RGB /w Cherry MX Brown switches
VR HMD Still nope
Software Win 10 Pro
Benchmark Scores 15 095 Time Spy | P29 079 Firestrike | P35 628 3DM11 | X67 508 3DM Vantage Extreme
LGA 1700 mod for an old Noctua cooler. I first bought an Asus Z690 board that had those dual holes for cooling retention labled LGA1200 and 1700. But on closer inspection i found out that if i smooth out the channel that is cut in to the back plate i can then move the retention screws to fit an LGA 1700 layout. And it worked like a charm on a standard LGA1700 board.
View attachment 235500
View attachment 235501
Elegant not Ghetto at all. Preserve things = great.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2013
Messages
18,915 (5.83/day)
Location
USA
I just perused through the BIOS, and it doesn't appear to have that option you mentioned. I'll look for it on my other boards that have weird USB keyboard issues (even w/ enabled in BIOS) to see if that helps, thank you.

Damn, I'll have to see if I can crossflash...

You're so right lol, I pretty much did the first thing I thought of before... Fixed, thank you!
View attachment 235485
View attachment 235486
View attachment 235487

CPU is connected to NB heatsink, HDD is SSD and Sys is ambient temp.
I would have just rewired the front panel connectors. But that's me..
 

Mussels

Freshwater Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
Messages
53,487 (8.31/day)
Location
Oystralia
System Name Rainbow Sparkles
Processor Ryzen R7 5800X (PBO tweaked, 4.4-5.05GHz)
Motherboard Asus x570 Gaming-F
Cooling EK Quantum Velocity AM4 + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate. Dual rad.
Memory 2x32GB DDR4 3600 Corsair Vengeance RGB @3800 C18-22-22-22-42 TRFC704 (1.4V, SoC 1.15V Hynix MJR)
Video Card(s) Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Often underclocked to 1500Mhz 0.737v
Storage 2TB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + WD AN1500 1TB + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2
Display(s) Gigabyte G32QC (4k80Hz, 1440p 165Hz) + Phillips 328m6fjrmb (4K 60Hz, 1440p 144Hz)
Case Fractal Design R6
Audio Device(s) Logitech G560 |Razer Leviathan | Corsair Void pro RGB |Blue Yeti mic
Power Supply Corsair HX 750i (Platinum, fan off til 300W)
Mouse Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL
Keyboard Razer Huntsman TE (custom white and steel keycaps)
VR HMD Oculus Rift S
Software Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS)
Benchmark Scores I don't quite know how i managed to get such a top tier PC, I am not rich.
My only problem is getting USB mice and keyboard to work on this, I have to use a PS/2 keyboard to get into BIOS or do anything and I have no idea why. USB keyboard / mouse are enabled in BIOS, I'm probably missing something obvious.
Check for a USB voltage jumper near the ports, many had an option to change between 5V and 5VSB for USB - you may find the current setting and current PSU dont power them up fast enough
 
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