Discussion in 'Cases, Modding & Electronics' started by Nitro-Max, Mar 17, 2008.
i see you have a magnetic wrist band thingy.
Broke the plug of a laptop cooler decided to do some voodoo to hold it together so that it doesn't come loose every time.
I've also used that method a few times, very useful in some circumstances. Also, I spy with my little eye a Satellite A300!
that are kids toys... magnetic contruction elements
why dont you solder it?
by the looks of it, he tried. there isnt a lot of leads to solder onto.
is that aimed at me? if so i have no idea what you are talking about lol
Correct. My a300 is still kicking *knocks on wood*
I tried to solder the damn thing but after you unplug it a few times it always breaks.
I don't know how much you know about soldering so excuse me if I'm telling you what you already know
There are two things you could do to fix it a bit more permanently...
1. Keep it like it is, break the pins off just outside the connector; then solder it and cover the whole thing in hot melt glue. (Called "potting") When the glue is almost cool, but still pliable, you can use something flat to form it into a rectangular shape so it's not so ugly. Example. You can do it with any old hot glue gun from a craft store. The important thing is that the glue covers the wire AND part of the connector to give it some strength
2. (assuming the plug is just USB) Buy one of these ($1.20, free shipping) and cut the phone end off it, solder the wires to yours (make sure you wrap the wires together before you solder for a strong mechanical joint... Western union is the best, but just putting a hook in each wire and hooking them together before you solder is OK too but not nearly as strong. solder alone won't hold it) and put heatshrink overtop, electrical tape will do too, but is nowhere near as clean looking or permanent. Being a cable for a phone charger there should be just two wires inside to make it easier, just make sure you get the polarity right before you solder it up.
And now my Ghetto post:
Papier-mâché rad shroud. I'm using the paper as a basic shape to form resin or fiberglass on. Pretty ghetto right now though
you should posted that in the "sexy hardware closeups" thread instead
Very ghetto mod pictures coming later!
For now I'll describe what I've done, got myself a piece of 9x5x0.3 cm alluminium to create a v-ram heatsink for 4 memory chips, you see the heatsink I'm using has quite a design hiccup so 3 of the chips just sit under the heatpipes getting hot as BS.
So I'm going to sandwich the Allu in there and then stick as many ram sinks as I can to it XD
alu stands for potato in Bengali and Hindi. i though you were gonna put a potato in btween your RAM LOL
Memory won't be warm now
Lowered gpu temps as welll! by nearly 10 degrees! ( bit o thermal paste between the heatpipes and the ghetto sink)
(when installed in system I have a 140mm blowing on this/my NB held up with a dvd case that's wedged between the rolled edges at the bottom of my case and my psu, ghetto ftw!)
Nice. My 5850 has the same problem, and there's not enough room under the HSF for ramsinks on about half of the mem chips. I'm in the process of upgrading to water, though so I just stuck some ramsinks and the universal block on it.
Side note: I axed the Paper mache rad shroud idea in favor of something a bit less stupid. Pics will come when I post a project log.
Nothing is ever to stupid in the ghetto world that's why it's Ghetto
Aye if it works it's all good!
Anyone know what sort of temperatures are good for a 1ghz 6870? ( 1.2v) as at the moment I don't crack 50c cept with GPU burn in programs.(lowest I've got my 6870 to so far)
I don't know about a 6870, but my 5850 would being artifacting around 90degC. I know for a fact that it wasn't the core temp that was the problem, though, as AudiTuner (who I bought it from) had the same settings running just fine, and had his run at those temps no problem. It was the mem chips overheating due to lack of airflow in my old case that ended up being the cause, and there's no temp sensor on the mem chips themselves.
The core temp, IIRC, is safe up to at least 120degC. I'll try and find a source for that...
Ah, here we go Sapphire (check bottom post) says that max temp range for the 6870 is 0C to 105C. There you go. So you're icy cold by those standards. I can't find a better source, but 105 seems reasonable for current gen ATi hardware, obviously that being a MAX you want to stay as far away as possible, and no guarantee it'll be stable all the way up to 105 but no damage should come until you hit there.
Sweet cheers man.
Shame this 6870 isn't as good as my last one ( my previous one could do 1.1ghz without to much fuss) craps out at around 1040mhz with voltage at 1.27 volts an extra .07 volts for 40 mhz so not worth it
50c isn't bad for a 1GHz OC hell I crack 54c doing F@H @ 940MHz/ 1.2V on my HD5770's but thats with shitty stock coolers though if could only find a good 3rd party cooler here in NZ
My first mobile computer that I could take out on the deck
2nd desk mod was a stationary in the hey day of acrylic cases
Needed more wireless Strength
Akasa Silentium case, original version.
Internal, integral, floor-mounted PSU gave up the ghost. Had to do some carving to fit a normal PSU on the rear of the case.
Oh noes, cooler is 5mm too tall! No problem. Say Hello to Mr Holesaw, Mr Jigsaw, and a bit of edge trim.
That Noctua hole looks familiar... Is it an older mod?
I've seen that ( or a similar one) on this very thread : ]
Thinking of doing similar so I can put my sidepanel on when I'm using my silver arrow.
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