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Ghetto Mods

freeagent

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Software Yes
Benchmark Scores Yes
I once cut up an Antec Sonata so the rad on my H100 could breathe. Pretty much just a hole from the bottom of the pan to the drive bay.

Rampage III Formula, Xeon X5690 E.S., 10gb G.Skill Perfect Storm and Ripjaws. GTX 580 Matrix Platinum, Auzentech Prelude, TX850w, H100, Antec Sonata.

Internal case temps were intense with the side panel on. I didnt have the proper tools, so I just used side cutters. It was butchered, but worked.

IMG_1530.JPG
 
Joined
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Processor i5-2700K @ 4.20GHz
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Cooling Air cooled
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Video Card(s) Asus RTX 3060
Storage 64gb SSD / 4tb SSD
Display(s) 16:9 color screen
Case Cooler master
Audio Device(s) Onboard
Mouse Logitech MX518
Keyboard MEDION KB-9908
Software Windows 7
i so LOVE how this thread is still going. Anyway i needed a small place to remove the mess from my desk.
IMG_20190501_160015.jpg
IMG_20190501_160032.jpg
 

silentbogo

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Case ghetto CM Cosmos RC-1000
Audio Device(s) ALC1220
Power Supply SeaSonic SSR-550FX (80+ GOLD)
Mouse Logitech G603
Keyboard Modecom Volcano Blade (Kailh choc LP)
VR HMD Google dreamview headset(aka fancy cardboard)
Software Windows 11, Ubuntu 20.04 LTS
i needed a small place to remove the mess from my desk.
LoL. And back in a day people used to spend $10-$15 on 5.25" storage drawers )))

Ok, now that I'm done backing up pictures off my phone, it's time to share my latest "inventions".

#1. Noise cancelling for G603.
Got really tired of super-loud clicks in semi-empty mouse, so I've decided to try some foam before I come up with a permanent solution.
For some reason only LBM feels more resistant. RBM is kinda the same. Noise levels reduced. Mission accomplished.
IMG_20190430_211652.jpg

#2 My super-secret project codenamed "F#$K ASUS". :D:D:D
Got a PCE-AC55BT not too long ago, cause my new board has no M.2 slot for WiFi adapter. Basically sidegraded from Intel 8260 to another Intel 8260 and lost $50 in process, all for the sake of not losing WiFi on Ubuntu.
While my old adapter had no issues delivering 680-780Mbit/s, this one barely managed half that.
Stock antenna is [was:p] total garbage. Not only did it under-perform, but it also looked pathetic and sad. :cry:
I swore a couple of years ago that I'll never-ever buy another ASUS wireless adapter, but unfortunately it was the only Intel-based alternative that was in stock in my area.
IMG_20190501_111855.jpg
So, today I got very pissed off and took that piece of shit for a ride to my secret laboratory on the outskirts of the city.

First, we take it apart and mutilate the wires. I do have some thin coax cables in my office, but couldn't find any female SMA connectors of the right size.
IMG_20190501_124858.jpgIMG_20190501_124906.jpgIMG_20190501_132324.jpgIMG_20190501_132309.jpg

Then, we take some big-ass 12dBi antennas from hell(previously used on my ASUS RT-N66U) and a couple of random mutilated SMA pigtails.
IMG_20190501_131154.jpg
Next, I dug up some random plastic enclosure from a no-name powerbank and drilled some holes for SMA connectors:
IMG_20190501_132705.jpgIMG_20190501_134038.jpg
Now, I can finally solder the stock cable to my DIY fankentenna.
Electrical tape is only there for protective reasons (to avoid bending/breaking the cable on sharp edges). Actual solder points are isolated with some hot snot (not shown).
IMG_20190501_143539.jpg

Last step is to add stability and sturdiness to the whole structure. Stock ASUS antenna had no rubber feet and was so light that it rolled on my desk every time I farted.
For this part I'm gonna use one of my spare AsRock heatsinks ripped of a dead embedded board. Two middle sections were removed in order to accomodate that plastic housing.
"Underbelly" was cleaned off the remaining thermal paste. As you can see - it already has some rubber standoffs (originally I wanted to put on some aftermarket rubber feet, leftover from my previous project).
IMG_20190501_152059.jpgIMG_20190501_153011.jpg
Last step - gluing it all together with more hot snot... lots of hot snot... :rockout:

IMG_20190501_153832.jpgIMG_20190501_153926.jpgIMG_20190501_154211.jpg



End result: WiFi back to normal with speeds ranging from 700 to max 866 Mbit/s, no ping anomalies, no bluetooth issues.
Maybe it's overkill... maybe it wasn't wort it in terms of performance gain, but it looks intimidating! ...and I won't see that ugly cheap and miserable piece of plastic on my desk ever again.
wifi.PNG
P.S. ... and I can do some wifi mischief almost 2 street away from the house, if I put it near the window ))
 

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Took out the dvd drive and placed a Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3 1600rpm PWM fan, fastened with 2 screws.
No dustfilter in front of it :ohwell: but excellent cooling results, even at lower speeds! :D

20190502_160313.jpg
 
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Case Cooler master
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Mouse Logitech MX518
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Software Windows 7
wifi run super hot? why not take off the cover. now its cooler :rockout:
Now i need to rig a proper antenna for the wifi:)
 

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wifi run super hot? why not take off the cover. now its cooler :rockout:
Now i need to rig a proper antenna for the wifi:)
Put a 120mm dual ball bearing fan on it too, can run the fan on an AC Adapter with proper specifications.
 

de.das.dude

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VR HMD ;_;
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20190504_154939.jpg
Full ATX build inside. Got a RX 580 and has no space for the fan. I dont have any tools so i hammer cut a slot in the mesh with a screw driver and my manly wrists. Passing the cable through that. Foam tape to reduce vibration!
 
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I nearly eradicated bodges and quick fuxes from my rig but I can't ,i use a strip of polystyrene foam to guide the hot air out of my case , you can't see it but I know it's there, gheto 4 life.

Still i recently upgraded from a sleeved chopstick holding up my gpu to an actual bracket, id recommend fixing such bodges , eventually.
 

de.das.dude

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"Hammer cut" is the best verb in this thread. If you've been there, you know lol.
Who knew such a blunt tool could be used for something like cutting :D
 
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View attachment 122286Full ATX build inside. Got a RX 580 and has no space for the fan. I dont have any tools so i hammer cut a slot in the mesh with a screw driver and my manly wrists. Passing the cable through that. Foam tape to reduce vibration!

You should be able to fit a thinner fan internally for a neater finish. ie,15mm or 12mm thick. I think fans can go as thin as 10mm thick with no reduction in size which should fit internally. Then again this is a ghetto thread, so anything goes, as long as it works.
 
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de.das.dude

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Cooling 240mm Rad | Not needed | hyper 212 EVO
Memory 2x16GB DDR4 3600 Corsair RGB | 16 GB DDR4 3600 | 16GB DDR3 1600
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Mouse Logitech G400 | nipple
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VR HMD ;_;
Software Windows 10 Professional x3
Benchmark Scores There are no marks on my bench
You should be able to fit a thinner fan internally for a neater finish. ie,15mm or 12mm thick. I think fans can go as thin as 10mm thick with no reduction in size which should fit internally. Then again this is a ghetto thread, so anything goes, as long as it works.
there is no space. The CPU heat sink touches the side panel :)
 
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It had been a long time I had not posted. My mood is not so good nowadays. Been quite awhile since my backplate mod with cpu cooler with dan a4 case. I am moving back to my old metis again with everything dissemble again. I just hope this is my last pc fix for my main machine. I should quit touching a main work machine and spending money. I miss having a big tower cooler with no cooling restriction. My old noctua is retired due to corrosion, I am still waiting for my Scythe Fuma to come in.

Found my old Xigmatek 1283 cooler lying around I have been wanting to sell this off but no one is buying it off despite placing it a $8. It is meant for 775 socket holes with intel pushpin. They all broke already do I used m4 screw with nuts, turns out it is compatible with current socket 1150/1151 with this mod unfortunately is not compatible with am4 which more rectangle than squarish for the mount. I attached the fan with super double sided tape, not the best but zip ties is abit difficult here. Anyway since no one want to buy it and it would not work with my am4, it now becomes my cooling coaster now. I think it fits fine.

P1050291.JPG

P1050292.JPG

P1050294.JPG

P1050296.JPG
 
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silentbogo

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Rampage II custom i/o shield, bought the board second-hand and came with no accessories.
Cardboard works better. I ran my Rampage II Gene without I/O shield for many years (no dust thanks to good ole Chieftec Dragon airflow), but my old secondary rig had an AsRock H97 Fatal1ty w/ cardboard "backplate".
 
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The following is the first mod to addresses the R9 Nano VRM temperature in a very tight PC case. It does not fully fix it, but now there is a big window open to improve this modification, ie heatpipe or copper radiator.

Thermal paste/pad is missing along with one screw in second photo, now fixed. Risk of short circuit is reduced as there are two extra capacitors solder to the board on the unused soldered pads.

HISTORY: This card utilizes the PCI chassis for extra cooling of the VRM. This is internal inside the card & is not visible, but card loses this if removed from PC case as it needs thermal pads between card & PC chassis for extra cooling.

WIN_20190531_14_16_30_Pro.jpgWIN_20190531_14_20_03_Pro.jpg
 
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It takes some planning
Shoe Goo plays a big part in my life

I just don't like the idea of a PSU fan facing that way. If you a get leak, it will go straight into the PSU, & that's a high power PSU. So it will go bang quick time. I prefer the PSU facing the other way if the case has vents that support PSU to work facing down.

I do like the idea of an internal power amp. Did this many years ago with a pioneer car power amp. Not enough space inside my current PC to fit one now. Power amp have move on & the next time I fit an internal power amp, it will be minimum 2.1 (50w per channel).
 
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