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Gigabyte Bios Configuration Issue

haygij

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Hello all!

My specs:
Motherboard: GA-H97-D3H (rev 1.0)
Processor: 4790K
Ram: HyperX (2x8gb)
SSD: Samsung EVO 850 250GB
OS: Win 10 Pro (licensed)

After updating my BIOS (from F3 to F7 - latest), the PC won't boot into any OS on any Media unless I disable C3/C6/C7 states, from what I have read, those are cache states of the processor.
By disabling those states, PC will boot fine and work well until gaming or a bit heavy use which causes the PC to freeze (sometimes it shows a blue screen saying "whea uncorrectable error").

PC freeze after a minute or 2 also while running "stress cache" with AIDA64 or a blend test Prime95.

On F3 the PC was working fine without problems, was a bad decision to update the BIOS.

Tried to run the pc with only mobo + processor + ram + ssd + psu, nothing else attached.

Tried another:
PSU
RAM sticks
SSD for OS
Monitor
Mouse and Keyboard

Please help =]
 

eidairaman1

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I hope you put the correct bios in for your revision. Have you cleared cmos first to go back to defaults? When bios flashing you should always do that.
 

haygij

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Yes, for sure, also cleared CMOS and chose load optimized defaults.

I'm thinking of shortening out pins 1 and 6 on the main BIOS chip so the backup will kick in.
 

eidairaman1

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Yes, for sure, also cleared CMOS and chose load optimized defaults.

I'm thinking of shortening out pins 1 and 6 on the main BIOS chip so the backup will kick in.

Reflash to a previous version
 

haygij

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On Gigabyte website it says next to version F6 "This BIOS prohibits updating to earlier version BIOS".

Would you suggest going back to F3?
 

eidairaman1

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On Gigabyte website it says next to version F6 "This BIOS prohibits updating to earlier version BIOS".

Would you suggest going back to F3?

Try it, if it doesnt get a spi flasher
 

eidairaman1

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haygij

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I have tried 2 first methods, won't help.
Going to try the third, do you have other suggestions?

Using a spi flasher would be too complicated for me.


Method #1:
1. Shut your PC down (if you're reading this guide, than your PC isn't working anyways)
2. Hold the power button until the PC starts and shuts down again
3. Press the power button again, your backup BIOS should kick in now and should re-flash the main BIOS if there's anything wrong with it.

Method #2:
1. Shut your PC down
2. Hold the power AND the reset button for about 10 sec, than release.
3. Backup BIOS should kick in anytime soon now.

Method #3:
Had to use this one in order to get my 990FXA-D3 working again. Backup BIOS kicked in using method #2, but I was back to the good ol' no signal state once the procedure finished..
1. Short out pins 1 and 6 on the main BIOS chip (pin #1 should be marked with a red dot or whatever)
2. Tell a friend (or a relative) of yours to press the power on button
3. Remove the ghetto-like jumper you're holding between pins 1 and 6 as soon as you hear a beep.
4. Backup BIOS should kick in again and everything will (hopefully) be fine.

Source
 

eidairaman1

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:wtf: it is by far easier to use a spi flasher than a pin mod...

I gave you the solution, its up to you now.

Later
 
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:wtf: it is by far easier to use a spi flasher than a pin mod...

I gave you the solution, its up to you now.

Later

Not really. Maybe it's just me, but I'd sooner short pins than bust out a programmer and clip. I even own one. Clips are just annoying.

That and the bios images from manufacturers often don't have all the data you need for an SPI flash, it makes it complicated.
 

haygij

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Never tried using SPI flasher.

Shortening 1 and 6 pins didn't kick the backup bios in, there was a response but and pc booted with the main bios.

Probably since the main bios is not recognized as corrupted.
Which bios version should be on the backup bios anyway?
 

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What power supply?

Haswell introduced the really low power states that required PSU support, so maybe you enabled that feature with the BIOS update, and your PSU cant handle the low loads at idle?
 

haygij

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Corsair RM850i
Their website says they are 100% Compatible with Haswell CPUs.

For the pc to boot normally I have to disable C3/C6/C7 states or to enable XMP (which from what I've read disables the states).

I really doubt that there is any faulty components since this whole thing started of Bios update.
 

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Dont make assumptions like that, they often trip people up.

Personally every time i've had weird CPU issues i've been able to fix them by removing the CPU, cleaning the contact pads and putting it back in. Give that a shot, see if it helps.
 

haygij

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Exactly what I did yesterday, I noticed there was a bit of cooling compound between mobo connector teeth.
Could it short anything?

I use Arctic MX-4, pretty sure it's not conductive.

The CPU looked excellent after cleaning the compound of it.
 

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it wont be permanent, cleaning things like that out of the way fixes them
At what point did you do that? i dont see it mentioned in your previous posts
 

haygij

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I did it 8 hours ago before going to sleep.

I couldn't clean all compound between the motherboard connectors, cleaned as much as I could but there is a small amount left undernigh the connector teeth of the motherboard.
 

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thats far more likely to be the cause of your issues than the BIOS
 

haygij

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I'm searching for a new motherboard, found a new Z97 here, will try to get it.
 

eidairaman1

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I'm searching for a new motherboard, found a new Z97 here, will try to get it.

Get a can of electronic grade contact cleaner and spray the cpu socket pins and cpu contacts down, shake out and let dry for a couple of hours before wasting money on a mobo.
 

haygij

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Thank you, will try today and update =]

Arctic website says:

Safe Application
It does not contain any metallic particles so electrical conductivity would not be an issue. Unlike silver and copper compound, it ensures that contact with any electrical pins would not result in damage of any sort.
 
Last edited:

eidairaman1

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Thank you, will try today and update =]

Arctic website says:

Safe Application
It does not contain any metallic particles so electrical conductivity would not be an issue. Unlike silver and copper compound, it ensures that contact with any electrical pins would not result in damage of any sort.

You need an aresol style spray, a squirt bottle would be too weak to spray pins on the lga socket, unless you can get a reusable aersol can that you can pressurize yourself and put the arcticlean in...
 

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its not electrically conductive to cause a short, but it can still block a signal going through
 

haygij

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I will buy an alcohol aerosol spray and try to clean the socket, hope it will work and that's actually what causes the problem.
 
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