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Goa´uld Al´Kesh [scratch build]

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#1


The


Goa´uld Al´Kesh


is a space ship of the bomber class from the TV series Stargate SG1.
What is there to say?



Designation: Al'kesh
Builder:Goa'uld
Class:Bomber
First appearance:SG1_04x22SG1 4x22 Exodus
Sheath material:Naquadah
Hyperdrive:interstellar
Arming:Goa'uld-Gun,Goa'uld-Bombs
Defense:Goa'uld-shield
Sensors:Goa'uld-Sensors
Other systems:escape pod,ring Transporter,Camouflage shield (optional)


As a big Stargate fan I always wanted to have one of the spaceships.
Unfortunately it is very rare in the series and since the game there, every Alkesh looks different.
So just the right thing to let my creativity run wild.
Sometimes I do not even like the original right so I build the Al`kesh as I see it.
The Al'kesh was supposed to be a functional ITX system, and the rest would be inspired by Stargate

In this sense: Shal'kek nem'ron ('I die free!')

Hardware
CPU: -
Mainboard: MSI Z270I Gaming Pro Carbon AC
VGA: MSI GTX 1070 AERO ITX
Ram: Ballistix Sport LT White 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666
PSU: - SFX

Cooling
?

in advance two pictures of the hardware which is installed.
Since I am still not sure how or how much I get into the case
I've sent the AERO ITX carefully to Alphacool to let me make a suitable water cooler for it.
Unfortunately there is not yet one on the market for the MSI VGA.





I would like to thank you very much to

MSI

Ballistix


since they support me so energetically in this project
 

FreedomEclipse

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#3
Looking forward to more posts.

Meanwhile, subbed.
 
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#4
Meh, a bomber with no fighter escort is little more than a sitting duck.
 

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#5
Meh, a bomber with no fighter escort is little more than a sitting duck.
Not if the bomber has shields.
 
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#6

FreedomEclipse

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#7
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#8
Stargate fan here. Looking forward to where this goes. Thanks.
 
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#9
Hi ,
Sorry for beeing to late.
I can´t edit the start post. Fu..

The updated spec list:

Hardware
CPU: Intel Core I7 6600K
Mainboard: MSI Z270I Gaming Pro Carbon AC
VGA: MSI GTX 1070 AERO ITX
Ram: Ballistix Sport LT White 16GB Kit (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666
PSU: Enermax Revolution SFX 550W
Fan: 2 x Enermax T.B.RGB

Cooling
Bitspower custom water cooling

I would like to thank you very much to

MSI

Ballistix

Bitspower

Enermax


since they support me so energetically in this project​

More updates comming soon then I explain what was going on.
 

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#10
Just ask a mod to allow you to edit, i am sure they would more than happy too.
 
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#11

Now it's going on again.

As previously mentioned I've sended the VGA to Alphacool, which arrived there at the beginning of 10/2017. As a hint, I should calculate with 20 days for the mapping. (ca. 11/2017) and 8-12 weeks manufactoring, so max 01/2048 - 03.2018.

The VGA was sended back short before Christmas, on demand, they couldn't give me an Answer about the further term, so I have to school myself in patience.

In my assessment I've asked them again in January, but I'm not able to find the email for it. My last request was at the 27.02.2018 but since Christmas I'm not getting any replies.

But because MSI and Crucial/Ballistix are trust in me, which I've already strained in my Opinion, I needed to orienteering me otherwise.

And see there I was able to find a fitting VGA Cooler at Bitspower and could convince them to support my Project.

That opens me of course an other possibility to even adapt the Watercooling on the typical Goa`uld Al`kesh Colors.
But see for yourself



The acerbity of course was, no sooner as Bitspower sended out the Packet to me, it was honestly the same day 14.03.2018 (Big Brother is watching you and so), if got a reply from Alphacool. Sorry etc.

Very well then I've now two Cooler Super. :klatsch:

Well now, let's start.

As first step, I've builded on my own a Styroporcutter, more flexible as a table and hand device. I don't need to say a lot about it I think. All right, working with the water level, cause with bevel cuts I can't work.



Here the auxiliary solution to stretch the Wire



And here the fixture to make it able to use the hole thing also as Hand device/ lance.



Now I've got two Styroporplates in 100x50x16cm. At first I wanted to glue them together to get enough height for building but meanwhile one plate is enough. So first a fitting egg was cutted.



And the the Lance unplugged and worked securely with free hands. How it is at all works, a bit less cutting then to much.



Now it's go further with 40er and 60er sandpaper, that works really well. With this result I haven't thought, apart from that mess.



So step by step I fumble my way to the Form that delight me.







As far as good, now I started to sister the different layers from the Al`Kesh. For that you use preferably thick construction paper for it.



Everything somehow compromises but only these makes imaginative. How a painter just is, he's thinking that filler will do its best, but the more the better is the working now, as less level out is needed later.







False sequence sorry but here is the Material that I organized for it. I will comment in the next working steps.



To get a stand clear gap and to hamper the contact between the polyester resin and the Styropor (it would decay in a short time) I've insert a 3mm thick PE Tube in the side.





Now only the Back. I've thought everything would went easier/faster but that is making a DIY’er out.



I didn't know how the Polyester Resin would react with the duct tape, so ever duct tapes and gaps would glued more with paper and instantglue



and so its begin, the hole paper covered in a deep layer of Polyester Resin and then carefully dap little strips weaves on it. not spreading just dapping that the Strips won’t move.

In the same way the spreading would tear down the weaves.

The Weaves draws full of the resin from alone.

During the work the resin will begin gelation and you can dap the next mixture on it or the remaining Material until the Weaves are completly embedded.



Because the work with the Paper became silly i’ve tried on trail to paint the sides with wall color to get a seperation between the Polyesterresin and the Styropor. That was really marginal, as the Weaves was on it, i saw the Styropor began to wind up. Phew saved by the bell.





To reach the most highest stability I've choose two Polyester putty knifes. One rude fibre-reinforced and a fine Polyester putty knife.

Here the rude one. He is remove the biggest surface irregularities.





Groundhog Day. For Days always the same work steps by a processing time of 2-5 min, nerves after a time but as Painter it's buisness as usual.

Blending - processing - cleaning tools - smoking break :D



Time for the next Layer: the Cap











The Cap was painted with Polyester Resin so it can reach the right form. The process of gelation is going on fairly quick,os you can take an eye on the dry process. It was fixed with assembly adhesive out of the cartridge. At the Borders I watched out that it isn't gluing with the spaceship. I went regularly along the sites with a boxcutter.

The resin which was to much I painted on the Spaceship, like you can see.





Now I've coated both side of the Cap with GRP Weaves. I two working process for sure. It gelate fast but is hardened first after 12h. It depends on how good you mix it. To observe the presets is really important. I've mostly mixed with Syringes of 50-100ml but how you think a lot helps a lot, that's not the fall here. To much hardened can extend the dry time fastly to more then 24h. I've looked a bit silly out of the clothes xD
Temperature is important like at varnish minimum 20°+.





Okay this is going to explode the picture limit.

A weekly update is verified herewith :)

See you next time!!

 
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#12
Hi!
Thx guys.
after I covered everything with the fine polyester knife it went to the bottom.
Exactly the same procedure as above











Now the Back had to be straightened, but I needed a guide rail.



Paper helps very well as a ruler replacement if you want to cut polystyrene,
So I cut the shape of the spacecraft from construction paper and taped it on styrodur, and cut it out.





Now I had a straight line to fix the paper strips and then brush with polyester resin.





the same on the bottom





Now I could cover everything with the polyester putty.

Now it was time to determine the perfect shape for the pyramid.
First try with paper.

Nooo that Looks not good :p



second try : is better. :thumbsup:
Nice snappy in the front and a fat back to look inside.
The pyramid is later built from plexiglas :rock:





first template i built from wood



What do you think about the form?





Now I can cut everything up
marked



remove cover carefully



Hole drilled



and cut out, after that I began to fill the underside.



After cutting the spaceship, the whole thing looked like this.
:lol:



Unfortunately I did not have a picture of the empty interior at this time.
But i have posted a Video onFacebook .
But as it looks exactly then you see in the next post :p
 
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#13
Hello and Happy Easter!
This time a monster update.

I have a lot tube remains but nothing fits for a engine



I found 4 feets for shop shelves



and yeah I think that suits.









and lenses to illuminate each engine from the inside





Then the Ballistix Sport LT.
I remove the decals and cooler.
I closed the holes with aluminum kit







paint in Gold



and glued them with thermal adhesive



i cut out 3mm Alu for the Riser Cable.







and glued with GRP





I noticed that I forgot a level on the bottom.













Unfortunately, it has slipped by 2 mm





finally the radiators arrived



cut out



i like it



The point why i used 2 120mm rads and no 240



then i glued the rads with epoxy and the poylester resin



brood brood- Power Supply Ventilation - Transporter Rings, Dr Watson Combine! :rofl:





Hahaha YES!
For the holder 2 alu angle i used.



fixed with fiber-rainforced knife



and then with GRP





As a dust filter I've cut out a circle from an old mesh



bend arround the tube







and glued with Acrifix R192.



now the hinge mechanism



3mm Alu for the shipside.



everything was as large as possible placed in GRP as usual





now i marked the layer for the MB tray
and used two small alu angle



these where fixed with fibreglas-rainforced putty and painted with polyester resin





Good you are now up to date.
Yesterday I started customizing the MB Tray but more about it next time.​
 

OneMoar

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#14
WE ARE NOT GOA`ULD!
srsly where has this been
 
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#16
Keep ongoing:toast:
 
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#18
Tek´ma´tek Tauri!

Now it went to the MB tray.
To measure it, I just measured every two inches from the center
and put me on the tray points.





so I could accurately as possible to cut the aluminum.



now the riser card



and cut the threads for it



then all holes and spacers were set



now it went to the cockpit
I just played something with Plexiglas to see where that leads.







So I started sticking together piece by piece



yes its okay





Next, I have a mini-hinge, generously with the Acrifix, glued into the pulpit and cut on the ship's side a thread in the large hinge (M1.5)





Now I have the pages straightened and ready.
With the pulpit I now have a small hinge which hides the big hinge :stupid::rofl:



So now the flop at all.
Last week I built landing skids. But the fit absolutely not to the spaceship


So they come in the showcase.
I need another solution for that . :wall:



At some point I have to do it, I also want to finally install gas spring for the lid but without the pyramid, the lid is still too unstable.
Lets go




First attempt went wrong but so I can practice gluing something






Next, I will prepare the plates for gluing.
Thank you all.
Until next time
 
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#19

Hello ,

All cut surfaces were sanded and deburred



then cleaned and masked with polyester adhesive tape and glued.



Of course, the first attempt went awry. When masking I kept the scalpel too oblique, so the gap was too big and I could only remove the excess adhesive by force.
I even had a fugue apart, well that was somehow clear.
So second try.



second attempt was actually okay except for a minimal blistering



So I tried it a third time.
But that was even worse, I use number 2



Now I've packed the pyramid clean again for all subsequent operations and cut out the shape of the spaceship



Then the spaceship so that the pyramid fits in perfectly



so that the adhesive and the filler form any unwanted reflections I have all cut edges painted gold.
Then inserted the pyramid and puttied all the gaps again.



finally progress :cool:



In addition, I built an IO shield for the motherboard.
Which form suits the concept best?
Right, a goa´uld sarcophagus.
For this I cut some aluminum



and bend it in shape



For the outer curves fits 16er tubes



For the circles I took 5mm Plexiglas



I then glued the pipes liberally with the glass fiber spatula and then brushed it with polyester resin









then small aluminum strips were cut and folded.
Now I've stuck everything with epoxy glue on IO-Shield and set a few decals.



and painted.



Hahahah :banana: like it
especially since the motherboard remains fully functional, back is open and all ports are fully accessible on the board

So let's see how far I am next time! :cool:
 
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#20
Hello,

The first thing I noticed in this photo was that something was wrong on the IO-Shield.
I did not notice the tinkering, although I had marked lines was the lettering good 5mm wrong.
I was maybe a little annoyed because the font for the plotter was too small.





okay fixed



Now it was up to the CPU cooler.
Unfortunately, this time nothing fit.
The socket screw was in the way, so I had to adjust that a bit.



To use the M2 SSD, I also had to shorten the backplate by a few Millimeters.



From the pyramid, I have now cut out the window.
It was rather modest, so I had to file and grind a lot afterwards.



for fear of breaking anything I had to examine the glass for scratches and damage.
But as far as I can see nothing is broken.



Now it went to the gas pressure damper.
For this I cut two brackets made of aluminum



then have the holes drilled and fixed the whole with the fiber-reinforced polyester putty.





Now everything was embedded again with GRP .





to test something I then decided for 2x40N gas spring.
That means that the lid and the Al'kesh weigh 8kg each time.
Since the whole upper part was still a bit unstable for me, I spent most of the last week with it
to reinforce the entire interior and then smooth spatula. That was a shit I tell you because everything is round.



The gas pressure damper I painted gold, the tube itself is then gold chrome foils, matching the tubes and Fittings.



Soooo what can not be missing in an Alkesh?
A Goaúld bomb for self-destruction :stupid:



The best way to do that is by deep-drawing so first of all a mold had to be made.
When digging in my wood waste box, I found these two sections quite well.



So I put these on a threaded rod and, like a glassblower, carefully guided it to the stand grinder.



then the same on the lower part



Then I put both together. With a little sanding dust and wood glue you can easily stir a putty together.





The bomb can still wait, for the thermoforming box is currently no place.

On to the interior, the flair of a spaceship should reflect itself again inside.
First, the view must disappear to the PSU.
With a little cardboard I could create a template to put two walls of Plexiglas.
Just as big as the PSU fits through and I can plug in the cables behind it.
They then only dress up the visible area so that I can lay cables under the walls




short test, is still working



in front of the PSU comes a hinged door which I bent a short hand from Plexiglas.



This then closes flush with the Alkesh.



Since I am very reluctant to start the circular saw during the week, I have cut the pillars for the interior at the weekend.
First cut 8mm Plexiglas in 1cm strips.



then fastened with tape and put a 3mm deep cut every 15mm.





yes i like it, to be continued



In the mainboard tray I have now the last holes for pipes, res, USB3.0 and HDMI cable set.



And today I started to cut the first pillars.



Okay, thank you until next time.​
 
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#21
Sooo let's go on.
There will be a lot to report after this weekend :cool:

Where do I start?
I pretty much worked on all areas in parallel, but sorted the images by topic to keep things more manageable.
The drives were finally fastened.



Since the fiber putty is hard after 5min I held each drive individually in position and lubricated from the inside the putty with finger on it.
I actually wanted to be able to remove it and glue it at the end, but it was not necessary. After the second fiber putty operation, they held up very well



Then I came up with a brilliant idea.
For the drive I have cut 4 rounds of 1cm Plexiglas



the edges thereafter roughly chamfered by the router and not ground on purpose but only slightly polished.
The effect fits very well when all lights up



after that I prepared the original light guide plate and the new one for gluing



and glued to the Acrifix R192. Of course this worked right away (almost where it does not matter :wall: )



The result, unprocessed, perfect. No bubbles no cracks. I do not expect anything more. :heul:



Now the impression that I imagined :banana:



Then I started yesterday to put the holes for the LEDs and glue these.
3mm blue concave



Part 2. The bomb
Now I could finally dig out the thermoforming box and deep pull the bomb.
If someone wants more details just let me know. ;)





after I cut out the bomb with scissors and sanded it reasonably straight.
Have I set a clean cut to the desired height with the Proxxon tool.



Coooooool



then I cut a ring on which I can then stick a LED stripe




Now I painted both from the inside without a primer black, because as I said, the green does not fit into the concept.
I've got 4-5 photos of the bomb or Al'kesh control panel here and only one of them is green. The others are all black.
Also, each has different symbols.



Which brings me to the next point.
I could not find a direct font for Goa'uld writing.
There are either only the gate symbols or it is referred to one of the many ancient Egyptian scriptures.
None of them would be eligible for the bomb.
I had then first made a few decals with the ancient script which I was also allowed to manually trace but that did not look good.
So I traced the font from the photo of the last post and used it.
Luckily, I could see just 10 icons to assign them 10 LEDs.



Part 3. The holder second try

The basic idea was already in my head for a while, but I still lacked the final attachment to the Alkesh itself.
As usual, "hit it and get started" I've just built it and I do not think it's that bad.
1. Create an ellipse and half close it to the circle.
This then cut out of 8mm extruded Plexiglas



Then with the router all edges chamfered to 4mm.



Now I cut a 4cm Plexiglas rod at 20 degrees.



the whole is then glued to the base plate



Now the support surface for the Alkesh.
Also cut here 8mm extruded Plexiglas and bevelled all edges to 2mm.



After that I started to bend both sides by 25 degrees each 4cm from the center.
Great the photo forget crap!
4cm from the outside I bent then by 65 degrees.
Thus I have three points that I can push into the Alkesh and under the radiators still enough space for the ball valves and sufficient supply and exhaust air



Part 4. The pillars

Just the 8mm slit Plexiglas strip was not enough for me so I cut out of 3mm Plexiglas also 8mm strips and have these all provided with Slots.



so in style



Now I've cut all the pillars exactly to length



and then stuck the 3mm Plexiglas in the offset



Now I began to prime and fill all the pillars.



until I was satisfied with the surface.



Now I stuck all pillars with foil. Similar to the sarcophagus.



Then everything again primed



and painted several times in Gold.




Last but not least part 5. The Alkesh

At the Alkesh I had to put under the res one more recess so I can put the pump directly under him.





Then I positioned the IO-Shield from below behind the radiators





Although I actually wanted to do without it, I smoothed the interior once again



everything primed



and then closed the last little holes to waterproof the whole case



The motherboard tray I have already provided with a 1K Alugrundierung and a few layers of primer



So far, so good, nice to finally see a little bit of color :banana:​
 
Joined
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#22

So that was a short week but it went forward.
The base plate of the bracket has been polished.

The acrylic glass rod I have now glued to the base plate.


Now I put the holes for the holder in the Alkesh

I then filled the cavity (between the attached trapezoid of the rads and the actual Alkesh bottom) with glass fiber spatula

fits

Now I've polished all edges of the bracket


and here is an impression of the holder.
I still have to glue the overlay to the pipe. Still coming.

then I began to paint the Alkesh and prepare for it.
First only primer.

The waves on the top were filled two to three times with the polyester spatula


then back primer and a tin of spray filler.
Now everything looks different and feels much better


Now I sanded the whole wet with 400 and had to make only a few corrections.
The lid here is exactly the same.
Here you can see quite well the looped points of the first operation and how the areas in between all filled with polyester spatula.

The current status.
To no new waves or bumps purely to grind through too much grinding I went over only with paper 600 and have primed everything again.
I will definitely repeat the whole thing 2-4 times until I am satisfied.

Well, we'll see.
Short week and then there is plenty of time to keep working:cool:
 

OneMoar

There is Always Moar
Joined
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Location
Rochester area
System Name Kreij Lives On
Processor Intel Core i5 4670K @ 4.4Ghz 1.32V
Motherboard ASUS Maximus VI Gene Z87
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Memory 16GB kingston hyper x @ 2133 @ 11 11 11 32
Video Card(s) EVGA GTX 1060 ACX Copper Single fan
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Joined
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Bridgwater, Somerset
System Name Not so complete or overkill
Processor 5960X @ 4.00Ghz @ 1v - For Crunching!!
Motherboard MSI X99 Titanium Gaming
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Benchmark Scores It's not to bad.. More importantly, it works!!
#25
Amazing build :)
 
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