Has anyone done a total cap replacement on a board ?

[delshay]

ok...Thanks for sharing what we already know (first part). But considering what the OP is doing (or what hes brining up anyway)....well, surely you can figure out how relevant that point is to me. Also, if reliability was a concern, i wouldnt have gone with a budget board using weak vrm and no heatsinks on it. So...that doesnt make much sense to me, lex. It wasnt a great choice for that either.


Anyway, cool for you guys... enjoy recapping!!

see above. Few care to take the time to do something like this when we are able to spend $30 more for a better board. Literally that is less than an hour's pay for me. Time spent vs gains simple isnt worth it (to me) to sit there for several hours recapping a cheap arse already functional board.

You go with your bad self though.

Spend $30 more on a better board which may still need recapping. No thanks, I sooner spend it on capacitors. The whole point of the thread is to have fun recapping old motherboards & attempting to change over to an all solid state which I more or less successfully done.

That's the result the OP wants to read, can it be done.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Also, if reliability was a concern, i wouldnt have gone with a budget board using weak vrm and no heatsinks on it.

While I agree with you about heatsinks for the VRM's, there are lots of boards without them which run fine for a decade or more, generally. So again, your statement shows the elite oc fan perspective and doesn't always apply to most situations.

Spend $30 more on a better board which may still need recapping. No thanks, I sooner spend it on capacitors. The whole point of the thread is to have fun recapping old motherboards & attempting to change over to an all solid state which I more or less successfully done.

That's the result the OP wants to read, can it be done.

Exactly. The op wants to know what can be done. At the end of the day, as long as he uses solid-state caps with the same ratings as the electrolytic ones he's replacing, it should meet with great success.

 

[delshay]

While I agree with you about heatsinks for the VRM's, there are lots of boards without them which run fine for a decade or more, generally. So again, your statement shows the elite oc fan perspective and doesn't always apply to most situations.

Exactly. The op wants to know what can be done. At the end of the day, as long as he uses solid-state caps with the same ratings as the electrolytic ones he's replacing, it should meet with great success.

Can you explain same ratings?

 

[jaggerwild]

Are you telling that to me lol

No, also means "to add to what you already said", or to your suggestion.

 

[EarthDog]

While I agree with you about heatsinks for the VRM's, there are lots of boards without them which run fine for a decade or more, generally. So again, your statement shows the elite oc fan perspective and doesn't always apply to most situations.

Exactly. The op wants to know what can be done. At the end of the day, as long as he uses solid-state caps with the same ratings as the electrolytic ones he's replacing, it should meet with great success.

LOL elite... cooler is better...that isn't refutable. Not all users have a 'pc elite' (lol again) cooling/airflow either. A budget, heatsinkless, board with a subpar VRM shouldn't scream reliable to anyone. Certainly it will work, but clearly a more robust VRM with a heatsink stands a better chance to be 'reliable. So, we will disagree I suppose.

Spend $30 more on a better board which may still need recapping. No thanks, I sooner spend it on capacitors. The whole point of the thread is to have fun recapping old motherboards & attempting to change over to an all solid state which I more or less successfully done.

That's the result the OP wants to read, can it be done.

Yep, of course it can be done.

Like I said, to some people its worth the time and effort to order them, and take hours to solder them on. Id rather get a better board for the money and time spent doing it.

If I was overclocking and pushing things, I wouldn't cheap out on the board and recap it. There are other parts of the equation like the quality of the VRM etc to consider.

 

[delshay]

LOL elite... cooler is better...that isn't refutable. Not all users have a 'pc elite' (lol again) cooling/airflow either. A budget, heatsinkless, board with a subpar VRM shouldn't scream reliable to anyone. Certainly it will work, but clearly a more robust VRM with a heatsink stands a better chance to be 'reliable. So, we will disagree I suppose.

Yep, of course it can be done.

Like I said, to some people its worth the time and effort to order them, and take hours to solder them on. Id rather get a better board for the money and time spent doing it.

If I was overclocking and pushing things, I wouldn't cheap out on the board and recap it. There are other parts of the equation like the quality of the VRM etc to consider.

Asrock made that motherboard to overclock. It does work without any heatsink on the Mosfet. I have looked at the PDF documentation on the Mosfet, & their are very good Mosfet.

Asrock cheap out by fitting poor capacitors. Swapping this around has changed the performance. If the MOSFET was not able to cope, it's not a problem for me, I just changed them out. But currently it's more than enough, am not a big overclocker, this is why I don't do many benchmark.

The other user who posted in this thread is correct, not every Mosfet needs a heatsink. Mosfet can operate over 100c easy.

Test in this thread was done with every single voltage settings set to minimum, apart from the CPU which was set to 1.55v.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Can you explain same ratings?

Voltage, farad and polarity. As long as they are matched up, electrolytic's can easily be replaced with solid-state.

 

[AsRock]

Be wary of the fake ones though.

More like don't buy of ebay period, better if in the US to go Mouser or Digike, and in the UK\Europe i keep seeing people prefer to go Farnall.

 

[Mr.Scott]

Test in this thread was done with every single voltage settings set to minimum, apart from the CPU which was set to 1.55v.

Which is a substantial increase from stock resulting in more load on the VRM section. It is also unnecessary unless you plan on overclocking, which you are obviously doing running a FX-57 at 3.2
In which case, you should be using a more substantial board instead of modding that junk board.

We've been down this road before. Not going there again. I'm truly out of this thread.

 

[Vario]

@natr0n
I got a bunch of new in bag caps when I was going to recap my old 939, want them? Send me a PM, would be price of shipping only. They were going to be complete cap set for my Biostar N4SLI-A9

I think I have

3x 16v 1500uf 105*C Nippon NCC KZG / case size: 10x20 / impedence : 0.013 / ripple: 2,550
5x 6.3v 3300uf 105*C Nippon NCC KZG / case size: 10x25 / impedence.012 / ripple: 2,800
8x 6.3v 1000uf 105*C OST RLP / case size: 8x12 / impedence .013 ripple / 555

edit: or maybe the replacements for these, don't remember
ah here was the invoice from digi-key

Do any of these match the caps you need?

 

[delshay]

Which is a substantial increase from stock resulting in more load on the VRM section. It is also unnecessary unless you plan on overclocking.

I do overclock, but with much, much lower voltage with my main CPU (FX-60). The modification has changed this, I can now overclock FX-60 to 2.9GHz with just 1.325v & it will also pass prime95 with easy.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Which is a substantial increase from stock resulting in more load on the VRM section. It is also unnecessary unless you plan on overclocking, which you are obviously doing running a FX-57 at 3.2
In which case, you should be using a more substantial board instead of modding that junk board.

The board in question is not a junk board. It's is a budget model, but it's also Asus. And 3.2ghz on an FX-57 is hardly a substantial overclock. Those VRM's will not be pushed hard enough to be a problem.

 

[delshay]

@OP

This link will aid you. use all the sub links in threads.

https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=47545

 

[delshay]

Voltage, farad and polarity. As long as they are matched up, electrolytic's can easily be replaced with solid-state.

Please read this link & sub link, if you are planning on doing modification. If you are not planning on doing modification, don't waste you time. But there is massive amount of information here.

One thing I would like to point out, you don't have to used the same voltage on some part of the motherboard. Ie chipset has 6.3v capacitor, you don't need 6.3v capacitor.

Chipset only runs at around 1.1 to 1.3v, so you can use 4v capacitors. This is just a example I have used, so you have to really thing about it.

Would you need 6.3v capacitor at the DIMMs? First thing here is, is there even 4v option in the BIOS, mine only goes to 3v.

Think about it, but you must always have a gap just in-case there is a spike in voltage, you do not want to exceed the voltage of the capacitor, even when first powered on, so my DIMMs have 4v capacitors as max in BIOS is only 3v Max. BIOS default/reset is 2.7v

NOTE: Some parts of the motherboard do need 6.3v capacitors like USB port & around the PCI/PCI-e slots & there maybe other parts that required 6.3v capacitors. Around the PCI/PCI-e slot you also need 16v capacitors.

I also don't recommend 4v capacitors on the 3.3v rail, use 6.3v capacitors only.


https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=47545

 

[Mr.Scott]

The board in question is not a junk board. It's is a budget model, but it's also Asus. And 3.2ghz on an FX-57 is hardly a substantial overclock. Those VRM's will not be pushed hard enough to be a problem.

lol. If you say so.
Ever overclocked a FX-57?
So you're saying Asus's budget model is better than everybody else's budget model?
You make me laugh.

 

[eidairaman1]

lol. If you say so.
Ever overclocked a FX-57?
So you're saying Asus's budget model is better than everybody else's budget model?
You make me laugh.

There is a point to this, these budget boards are pretty much what OEM boards are, aka ECS, PCChips, Biostar, MSI. They are good for stock runs but not goot for overclocking unless you like destroying parts to include the cpu from putting dirty voltage through it.

I have to agree, this board is not worth it unless you add additional high quality vrm phases.

Mr. Scott has been doing LN2/DICE ocing for sometime, oc longer than I have been. I only discovered it in 2003 myself.

 

[Bones]

I do overclock, but with much, much lower voltage with my main CPU (FX-60). The modification has changed this, I can now overclock FX-60 to 2.9GHz with just 1.325v & it will also pass prime95 with easy.

You mean after all the time you spent working on your problem(s) you just now got it to do that?

I can do this - Because I did:

Go higher with less voltage, complete a long, heavily loaded benchmark run like this, then SHOW US the actual result with no BS lip-service and we'll talk then.

 

[eidairaman1]

You mean after all the time you spent working on your problem(s) you just now got it to do that?

I can do this - Because I did:
View attachment 94256

Go higher with less voltage, complete a long, heavily loaded benchmark run like this, then SHOW US the actual result with no BS lip-service and we'll talk then.

Mr. Scott knows this guy, so this thread has run its course, abandon the sinking ship

/thread

 

[Bones]

Had to show it to make the point and set the example - Nothing special about his claim(s) and that's all there is to it is at this point, nothing more.

Until something of substance is actually shown backing his claim(s) that's all it is or ever will be.
BTW the board used still has it's original style caps, not modified or anything else done to it.

Over and out.

 

[delshay]

You mean after all the time you spent working on your problem(s) you just now got it to do that?

I can do this - Because I did:
View attachment 94256

Go higher with less voltage, complete a long, heavily loaded benchmark run like this, then SHOW US the actual result with no BS lip-service and we'll talk then.

You either have a very good CPU or you are using a something different to cool the CPU, as I don't see any fan speed. What are you using to cool the CPU.

& no my CPU would not operate & 3GHz with that voltage, the lowest it will boot into windows is 1.325v, but it will not pass prime95 @3GHz, 2.9GHz is prime95 perfect.

It would be helpful if you provide a link to download that benchmark program (windows 7 64bit).

This thread is about if you can change from Electrolytic to Polymer on motherboards. I have provided link to show that it can be done, & I have done that here. It's not a benchmarking thread.

EDIT EDIT EDIT

There is only one way you can get that CPU to do 3GHz with that voltage. Don't try to be smart with me, I think I know how you done it.

 

[lexluthermiester]

lol. If you say so.

Yup, I do.

Ever overclocked a FX-57?

Yup, I have. Back then I was working at a shop and one of my specialties was OCing. The FX series of CPU's took no special effort. They were subject to the silicon lottery like everything else, but were easy to OC to decent levels. 3.2ghz for an FX-57 was not difficult. At all. If you were/are having troubles, YOU are doing something wrong.

So you're saying Asus's budget model is better than everybody else's budget model?

Generally speaking, at that time and for that chipset, yes.

You make me laugh.

Irony, far out..

Please read this link & sub link, if you are planning on doing modification. If you are not planning on doing modification, don't waste you time. But there is massive amount of information here.
One thing I would like to point out, you don't have to used the same voltage on some part of the motherboard. Ie chipset has 6.3v capacitor, you don't need 6.3v capacitor.
Chipset only runs at around 1.1 to 1.3v, so you can use 4v capacitors. This is just a example I have used, so you have to really thing about it.
Would you need 6.3v capacitor at the DIMMs? First thing here is, is there even 4v option in the BIOS, mine only goes to 3v.
Think about it, but you must always have a gap just in-case there is a spike in voltage, you do not want to exceed the voltage of the capacitor, even when first powered on, so my DIMMs have 4v capacitors as max in BIOS is only 3v Max. BIOS default/reset is 2.7v
NOTE: Some parts of the motherboard do need 6.3v capacitors like USB port & around the PCI/PCI-e slots & there maybe other parts that required 6.3v capacitors.
I also don't recommend 4v capacitors on the 3.3v rail, use 6.3v capacitors only.
https://www.vogons.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=47545

Those are excellent points. To add to that it should be noted that board makers often use parts that exceed the needs of the circuit to compensate for variances elsewhere on the board. The effects of such are not always obvious. So as a general rule, you are right in that you don't absolutely have to use the exact same voltage rating for caps, but it's best to do so just in case such a condition exists on the board.

 

[delshay]

Yup, I do.

Yup, I have. Back then I was working at shop and one of my specialties was OCing. The FX series of CPU's took no special effort. They were subject to the silicon lottery like everything else, but were easy to OC to decent levels. 3.2ghz for an FX-57 was not difficult. At all. If you were/are having troubles, YOU are doing something wrong.

Generally speaking, at that time and for that chipset, yes.

Irony, far out..

Those are excellent points. To add to that it should be noted that board makers often use parts that exceed the needs of the circuit to compensate for variances elsewhere on the board. The effects of such are not always obvious. So as a general rule, you are right in that you don't absolutely have to use the exact same voltage rating for caps, but it's best to do so just in case such a condition exists on the board.

If the voltage regulation was exceeded, the first thing that will go is the chip, not the capacitor.

There is also a debate if you should use higher voltage capacitors as it does no harm. After seeing a video on youtube where a user tested two capacitors "same value" but one was rated with a higher voltage than the other, the lower voltage capacitor showed better filtering on the scope meter

If you look at PDF docs on capacitors, you will see, lower voltage capacitors has a lower "leakage current" than a capacitor with the same value but has a higher voltage rating. So in my case, I would have been better off with 2.5v for the chipset, as chipset has a max voltage of 1.3v.

What you need to be doing is checking what is the max voltage for every component in the BIOS, this will determine what voltage capacitor you will use. Always keep a minimum 1v gap to the max value of the capacitor, as you need to take into account of spikes in voltage.

EDIT: Around the PCI/PCI-e slots you need 16v capacitors too. So you need both voltages 16v & 6.3v, there's no getting around this.

Manufactures buy there parts in bulk, so to save money their fit higher voltage capacitors on some part of the motherboard, like I said, why would you need a 6.3v capacitor for something that operates at 1.3v.

If you look modern motherboards, some VRM have 6.3v capacitors, that's for extreme overclockers.

 

[AsRock]

Just a thought, if you go though with replacing the caps, if you don't have one already pick up a dentist pick

 

[Bones]

There is only one way you can get that CPU to do 3GHz with that voltage. Don't try to be smart with me, I think I know how you done it.

Oh really?
How did I do that?

EDIT:
Speaking of benchmarking, it isn't a thread for Prime95 either yet you made reference to that so my post is fair enough, also demonstrates the chip and board are capable of what I could have said but didn't have to, the result says all that needs to be said about it.

All I've done is to show and prove it and that seems to offend you - Don't want to show any proof of your claims on your part?
Get over it.

Yes, cap modding CAN help but it can only make up for so much.

One more thing:
This is getting off topic as you were so quick to point out after the proof I posted was done so..... This is the last reply to this thread from me period since I know you'll try and drag this on but that would make it even further off topic and no need for that.

 

[lexluthermiester]

Just a thought, if you go though with replacing the caps, if you don't have one already pick up a dentist pick

Yes, this. A good tweezer set is essential for surface mount component work.