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Have you ever experienced a power supply failure?

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I think I am still going to get another unit with a bit more beef.

View attachment 216453

View attachment 216454
It's you money, but there's really no need to get something bigger. Look, you have 750 watt unit, your parts consume up to 627 watts, manufacturer likely overbuilt it, so that it lasts very long time. I really don't see a point in upgrading. I would understand if you had something sketchy, that you bought really cheap with likely inflated wattage, but you have Seasonic Prime, not something like Cooler Master MWE White 750. It's totally fine and don't forget, that watt meter shows watts used at wall, meaning that conversion isn't perfectly efficient and thus wattage is with conversion losses. Power supplies are designed to deliver advertised wattage on each rail and they measure that on DC side, not AC side. Power supply is expected to deliver that much power after conversion. So you not only have 16% headroom available, but after excluding conversion losses, you actually have like 10% more headroom. In total, that's 26%, which is plenty.
 
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You drive a hard bargain. I get sketchy when I see the rails move around like that. 12 year warranty so it should be ok.. only one way to find out :laugh:
 
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I'm from Europe too (Lithuania) and despite seeing various LC powers in online shops I haven't really seen anyone having it in their PC. They are very underrepresented in reviews and etc and I haven't heard anything about them. They also have tendency to make power supplies that are really uncomfortably cheap, look like some rebranded units from last decade. They look too sketchy to even try.
as i said, Metatron is quite reputed in Switzerland (and Germany spain from what i see) OEM is CWT and Andyson for that line, i can speak for their office series too (my 350W is clearly an office series i need to dig it out of the spare "vault" to check :laugh: ) i would steer clear from their PSU outside the Metatron line tho ... but well, as i mentioned ... that old @ss 350W unit has yet to turn bottom up, nonetheless for retrorigs i use more my Enermax CoolerGiant 480W nowadays.
my local retailer also sell quite a lot of LC-Power product, but yeah, not really PSUs, more screen/cases/mouse-keyboard/other accessories/peripherals.
well my Proton was cheaper than that Legion X2 (126 chf VS 140 eur, but that price was in 2010 ).
they have also some nice curved VA 2.5k screens using Samsung panels, not top notch but can't complaint at the price, if i ever needed a 32" curved to replace my current 32" Medion/Erazer IPS monitor.
their cases are bottom barrel, but again at a price that leave little to complain for a bog basic frame with fancy plastic/glass/whatamacallit alloy and rainbowpuke powered fans!

but yeah reviews are hard to find (still find them, mostly in German atm )PSU OEM listing and reviews archives : https://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page8401.htm


AH! yeah ... one PSU that did go "pop" (chemcap burst) the OEM 250W HP that was in my Phenom II X6 (thuban) rig when i replaced the cheap GF 210 by a GTX 460 and then a HD6850 (it happened with the 460 ) back in 2010,

that triggered a "upgrade itch" new case to accommodate a new PSU hilariously a LC-Power Metatron 650W LC8650 v2.2 Ozeanos, Andyson unit, 80+bronze rating : review conclusion (German on PCGH X)
"Not everyone absolutely needs a power supply unit with an average efficiency of over 90% and not everyone is willing to spend almost 100 euros or more for it. Since the test options are very limited, it is difficult to make a statement about the quality, in the area of residual ripple and voltage stability under load. However, no weaknesses were found during the test. The price / performance ratio fits, because you get a reliable power supply with modular cable management ."
 

abdulhkeem

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I had a Thermaltake tough power 1200w fail about 2014/15 took my old kabylake system with it, running a Corsair hx1000i now runnig strong!
 
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I'm with Andy on this. Certainly a "beefy" filtering stage at the source is extremely beneficial, but I totally disagree that only one is needed - at least not with sensitive, high-density, low DC voltage devices like microprocessors, memory modules and the such. If one was enough, why do even budget motherboards have several filtering stages and the higher end motherboards have multiple stages of filtration?
But that's not what I said. At all. I said "that way you need one beefy filtering stage rather than several". Italics mean emphasis. One, as opposed to several, beefy filtering stages. Not one beefy, as opposed to several filtering stages. The difference might be subtle, but the meaning changes quite significantly, so please take the time to actually read before you respond. There is nothing in my post indicating that I think a single filtering stage is sufficient as long as it's beefy. I said that as long as the input filtering is beefy, you don't (necessarily) need beefy filtering stages elsewhere. That clearly is not equivalent to not needing them at all.
Wait! What? How are a computer's internal components - which run on DC - creating ripple? Ripple, by definition, is "the inherent ac component of the output voltage caused by the internal switching of the power supply."
Okay, sure, I should have said noise. Either way it's an undesirable variation to the DC voltage. Whether it's evenly cyclical and linked to the AC input or more variable and linked to components with varying power draw and/or switching is ... kind of not that big a deal. It needs to be filtered anyway; the question is what is the most significant source of noise and accordingly where to place filtering for it to work the most efficiently.
 
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Edit: The same concept also apply for mains power. If your appliances make a lot of high frequency noise (for example through hard switching, rectification, or old school dimming circuit), one central filtering won't be as effective as local filtering.

How is dimming done these days? (for me old school is triac)

Off topic I know, but I don't want to waste a whole thread on this.
 
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Off topic I know, but I don't want to waste a whole thread on this.
Don't worry about it, it's fine. As long as we talk about PSU output quality it's okay. I like learning about such things.
 
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How is dimming done these days? (for me old school is triac)

Off topic I know, but I don't want to waste a whole thread on this.
For CFL and LED it's done at point of load by changing the output current, either through 4-wire control (L, N, 1-10V or 4-20mA) or fancy WiFi/ZigBee/BLE/whatever these days.
 
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Thanks, and here was me hoping they had mastered frequency control for induction motors; I use variacs on my fan induction motors to avoid the noise, but frequency control would be better.

This actually relates to power supplies as coil whine can drive some people crazy.
 
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This actually relates to power supplies as coil whine can drive some people crazy.
That's one thing that I won't ever have problems with. Being partially deaf is sometimes nice.
 
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I have never had a power supply fail on me with a bang, however I did buy a computer online with an original CX600. It arrived and simply wouldn't turn on.

Turns out one of the caps was bulged. Once the cap was replaced the unit was fixed and worked fine.
 
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Once one capacitor is gone I tend to replace the group as it is less trouble than having to fix things again further down the road; then I stash the replaced 'good' capacitors so that if another power supply goes, I can get it back up and running right away while new capacitors are on the way.

But I am a bit of an extreme as I recently repaired a 40 year old smoke alarm by replacing the main capacitor.
Smoke Alarm Repair | Electronics Repair And Technology News Smoke Alarm Repair (jestineyong.com)
 
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No dramatic explosions for me, but some no-name thing (it may have been the PSU that came with my first case; SO long ago now...) gave up the ghost and took a motherboard with it. A bulk-pack Sparkle (what one of the local shops used to keep on the shelf) quietly died with no associated victims, and an Antec EDG-550 (Seasonic built, IIRC) didn't die, per se, but stopped properly powering its system, which started to self-reboot arbitrarily.
 
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Zero. I have never had a PSU go bad in over 20+ years.

I never bought junk either.

I still own almost every PSU I ever bought as well and they all still work. I tossed one PSU because it was so old I didn't think I'd ever use it. I think it was a true control Antec with the break out box that let you adjust voltages, I lost the box so tossed the PSU.
 
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