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HAVIT HV-KB390L Keyboard

VSG

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#1
The HAVIT HV-KB390L is a new low profile mechanical keyboard based off the 87-key TKL form factor. It uses Kailh's new Choc PG1350 low profile switches, has an aluminum alloy frame/plate, a lightweight software driver, and customizable backlighting; all at a great price point.

Read the whole review here
 
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#2
Damn, I was rooting for this, but I don't think I can stomach those clicks. Sharkoons supposedly sport red switches, but they're not available anywhere, afaict (and that blue light looks way worse then this "ice blue").

Also worth noting is that this also comes in full size with RGB lighting, while Sharokoon's full size model is still stuck with blue light only.

Guess I'll stick with membrane for a while longer...
 

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#4
Damn, I was rooting for this, but I don't think I can stomach those clicks. Sharkoons supposedly sport red switches, but they're not available anywhere, afaict (and that blue light looks way worse then this "ice blue").

Also worth noting is that this also comes in full size with RGB lighting, while Sharokoon's full size model is still stuck with blue light only.

Guess I'll stick with membrane for a while longer...
Yeah, the plan was to get the Sharkoon in which didn't happen because of stock issues. So in a nice coincidence, HAVIT contacted me about their branded version and that worked out fine.
 
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#5
Yeah, the plan was to get the Sharkoon in which didn't happen because of stock issues. So in a nice coincidence, HAVIT contacted me about their branded version and that worked out fine.
It doesn't look half bad (I'm not sure how much should I worry about those keycaps), but going from membrane to blue switches is hard.
 

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#6
It doesn't look half bad (I'm not sure how much should I worry about those keycaps), but going from membrane to blue switches is hard.
Based on your reaction to the switch sound profile alone, I can tell you will probably not enjoy it. Maybe a version with Choc brown switches will help if someone makes it.
 
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#7
Based on your reaction to the switch sound profile alone, I can tell you will probably not enjoy it. Maybe a version with Choc brown switches will help if someone makes it.
My window of opportunity is rather small, if I don't get something before Christmas I'm stuck buying local and prices around here are rather terrible.
For ~€20 I'll probably get this: http://modecom.com/en/mc-800m/
 
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#8
my current keyboard is a scissor-switch type, but i was considering a mechanical. Would this be an acceptable comparison to scissor switch keys?
 

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#9
my current keyboard is a scissor-switch type, but i was considering a mechanical. Would this be an acceptable comparison to scissor switch keys?
The low profile nature of both is really the only similarity. Scissor switches are membrane keys in a smaller package, and need to be fully pressed down to actuate while also giving a tactitle feedback. These are mechanical switches with a clicky and tactile feedback and do not need to be bottomed out to actuate. If the low profile nature is what interests you, go for it.
 
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#10
Just my opinion, but if you want to have a mechanical keyboard, you should buy a true mechanical keyboard. You wont go for half-measure solution, that will probably leave you unsatisfied with product you would most likely prefer to not have at all.

My suggestion for all that want mechanical keyboard (first) is to get a bit decent one. If only thing you really want is mechanical keyboard, then there are rather affordable options with Cherry MX switches.

I had as first mechanical Steelseries 7G. It was great (unfortunately its half dead) so I moved on to Novatouch (which btw. isnt exactly upgrade, more like different stuff altogether). And I never had regrets about getting 7G (also I got it pretty cheap :D).

When buying stuff like this, psychology is as important as products itself.

Always ask yourself, do I really want some compromise? Cause trust me, if you want Porsche, then buying VW isnt going to make you happy. Works same for just about everything, as long as you can afford it. And if you cant, well.. build yourself a mechanical keyboard. Its fun, its completely unique in results and it can be every bit as good as new one (or better, cause you made it for yourself).
 

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#11
This is a "true mechanical keyboard", not sure what you are referring to otherwise.
 
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#12
...
My suggestion for all that want mechanical keyboard (first) is to get a bit decent one. ...

I had as first mechanical Steelseries 7G. It was great (unfortunately its half dead) so I moved on to Novatouch (which btw. isnt exactly upgrade, more like different stuff altogether). ...

When buying stuff like this, psychology is as important as products itself. ...
Speaking of psychology, your decent mechanical keyboard is half dead while my 8-10 years old (don't remember when I bought it) membrane keyboard is working as well as it did on day 1. So if you're not frustrated by ghosting while gaming, you're paying the price for mechanical just for the feel of it. That, by itself, is reason enough to get one, I'm just underscoring how much psychology factors into getting a mechanical keyboard sometimes.

And btw, by writing this I think I've just settled on the keyboard I listed above.
 
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#13
Speaking of psychology, your decent mechanical keyboard is half dead while my 8-10 years old (don't remember when I bought it) membrane keyboard is working as well as it did on day 1. So if you're not frustrated by ghosting while gaming, you're paying the price for mechanical just for the feel of it. That, by itself, is reason enough to get one, I'm just underscoring how much psychology factors into getting a mechanical keyboard sometimes.

And btw, by writing this I think I've just settled on the keyboard I listed above.
Well, I had happy 6 years with it. It was under heavy gaming load and they used unfortunately not so great controller (switches are still fine). SS is just brand on that keyboard. Wouldnt buy that again, but there is no guarantee that even quality ones last "forever" (probably apart buckling IBM :D). But lets say Ducky or HHKB seem fine (I have Ducky numpad atm, fine thing it is).

I wasnt going for it only cause gaming, but used to type a bit on it too. And it had PS/2, which was great. Was really good gaming keyboard, which is for what it was marketed anyway.

But true, its a lot about psychology. Even thinking one is better with it makes one better. :D
 
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#14
Well, I had happy 6 years with it. It was under heavy gaming load and they used unfortunately not so great controller (switches are still fine). SS is just brand on that keyboard. Wouldnt buy that again, but there is no guarantee that even quality ones last "forever" (probably apart buckling IBM :D). But lets say Ducky or HHKB seem fine (I have Ducky numpad atm, fine thing it is).

I wasnt going for it only cause gaming, but used to type a bit on it too. And it had PS/2, which was great. Was really good gaming keyboard, which is for what it was marketed anyway.

But true, its a lot about psychology. Even thinking one is better with it makes one better. :D
Speaking of which, PS/2 was a way better port than USB for peripherals. They don't make PS/2 keyboards or mice anymore, because that's supposed to be legacy, but, funny thing, even Z370 motherboards still carry a PS/2 combo port.
 
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#16
The low profile nature of both is really the only similarity. Scissor switches are membrane keys in a smaller package, and need to be fully pressed down to actuate while also giving a tactitle feedback. These are mechanical switches with a clicky and tactile feedback and do not need to be bottomed out to actuate. If the low profile nature is what interests you, go for it.
which (if any) are closest to being fully pressed down. I'm not sure of the technical terminology, but currently there is a 'thunk' sound when i hit the scissor switch keys (i guess the key hitting the bottom of the backplate)... but if i'm reading right, the sound would come before the key would register with these mechanical switches? it might be a little strange hearing the sound before it registers... or.. it registers at a different time of the key being pressed down (is this a more accurate description?)
 
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#17
which (if any) are closest to being fully pressed down. I'm not sure of the technical terminology, but currently there is a 'thunk' sound when i hit the scissor switch keys (i guess the key hitting the bottom of the backplate)... but if i'm reading right, the sound would come before the key would register with these mechanical switches? it might be a little strange hearing the sound before it registers... or.. it registers at a different time of the key being pressed down (is this a more accurate description?)
It doesn't click before it registers, it just registers (and clicks) before bottoming out. Otherwise, you'd have quite a long press before registering anything. See here: http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/
 

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#18
It doesn't click before it registers, it just registers (and clicks) before bottoming out. Otherwise, you'd have quite a long press before registering anything. See here: http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/
Actually, if you look at the force-travel diagram in the review, the tactile point is ever so slightly before the actuation point. This is generally true for most tactile and clicky switches, but we are talking about a 0.1 mm difference at most. So you would feel the bump and heat the click just before the keystroke actuate, and both before you bottom out the switch- if at all.
 
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#19
Actually, if you look at the force-travel diagram in the review, the tactile point is ever so slightly before the actuation point. This is generally true for most tactile and clicky switches, but we are talking about a 0.1 mm difference at most. So you would feel the bump and heat the click just before the keystroke actuate, and both before you bottom out the switch- if at all.
If you can't stop between clicking and actuating, that's simultaneous to me ;)
Another good thing about that page is it reminded me about silver switches, I'm going to look for something like that before giving up and staying with membrane.
 
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#20
This looks fantastic. I actually love the "aqua" backlighting. Not as (potentially) harsh as white, while still being relatively neutral. A good balance between visual flair and functionality, which ties in well with the otherwise ultra-minimalist design. Speaking of the design: yes. That's how you make a TKL keyboard.

Now, just give me a version with an ISO layout (Nordic or Norwegian preferred, but I can live with some misleading key legends at that - the silly American Enter key, however, has to go) and Brown-style switches. No blues for me, thank you.