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Help choosing components and water loop kit

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#1
I'm going to build a kit inside a thermaltake core p5 case. I intend to do a custom water loop inside.

I'm probably gonna get an i5 6600k or 7600k along with a gtx 1080 graphics card.

Which GTX 1080 would you recommend considering I want to include it in the water loop?
Are there GTX 1080s that come with a warerblock preassembled? Or ones that support both air and water cooling?

What about a good water cooling loop kit?
I wanna cool one cpu with 1 gpu. I'm thinking of going with a 480mm radiator on the right side and set the pump between the mobo and radiator.

Budget = up to 5000$
I need to get everything. Including a 24" 1440p monitor, a keyboard that would match the theme.

As for the theme
I'm shooting for this particular colour scheme
Wow. My kind of colours https://imgur.com/gallery/jVoC6
 
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#2
I'm going to build a kit inside a thermaltake core p5 case. I intend to do a custom water loop inside.

I'm probably gonna get an i5 6600k or 7600k along with a gtx 1080 graphics card.

Which GTX 1080 would you recommend considering I want to include it in the water loop?
Are there GTX 1080s that come with a warerblock preassembled? Or ones that support both air and water cooling?

What about a good water cooling loop kit?
I wanna cool one cpu with 1 gpu. I'm thinking of going with a 480mm radiator on the right side and set the pump between the mobo and radiator.

Budget = up to 5000$
I need to get everything. Including a 24" 1440p monitor, a keyboard that would match the theme.

As for the theme
I'm shooting for this particular colour scheme
Wow. My kind of colours https://imgur.com/gallery/jVoC6

EVGA 1080 Hydro Copper: http://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=08G-P4-6299-KR
It comes pre-fitted with a waterblock. Ready to be fitted into your custom loop.

OR - If you prefer an EK waterblock you could just buy the 1080 FTW and buy a separate block from EK (or another manufacturer) and fit the block yourself <--- the latter is definitely more fun; and you'll learn more too :)
Plus; you don't lose your GPU if you need to go air in the future; your card might even be easier to sell on.

Alternatively -
You could go with the EVGA 1080 Hybrid: http://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=08G-P4-6299-KR

-The difference with the Hybrid is the CORE & MEMORY is watercooled (the core directly & the memory passively)
But the downside is the VRM is still air cooled.
-In my experience; the 3 GDDR5X memory chips closest to the VRM (opposite to the I/O side) can run up to 20c hotter than the other VRAM chips. So it depends if you care about memory overlocking... if you don't, then the Hybrid could be a little cheaper and also less hassle as it's also an AIO solution. (with 120mm fan) but if you're going custom I think that would defeat the purpose!!

If you want total BEAST of a system (I noticed your 5000 budget)
You could get the 'EVGA 1080 Classified' and install an EK 780TI block on it.
EK now support this officially. See my post here: http://forum.kingpincooling.com/showthread.php?t=3938
Classified 1080 is the most powerful you're going to get. With a maximum draw of 320w. (FE is 216w; for comparison)
 
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#3
Big thanks! That was quite informative.

I find it odd that manufacturers design cards go be hybrid but do not include a solution for the vram

But to be honest with you guys, my reason for the custom water loop is mostly for aesthetics and the pleasure of building than the actual overclock. I mean yes I'm going to do a decent overclock on the components but in the past, I've discovered how MEGA time consuming overclocking and stability testing can be. It felt like the overclock is never quite done. Constantly adjusting settings by microns.

Lord... The headaches lol. This time around my goal is much more low noise, aesthetics and the sheer pleasure of learning and building. Adding the water custom loop building to my skillset
 
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#4
Big thanks! That was quite informative.

I find it odd that manufacturers design cards go be hybrid but do not include a solution for the vram

But to be honest with you guys, my reason for the custom water loop is mostly for aesthetics and the pleasure of building than the actual overclock. I mean yes I'm going to do a decent overclock on the components but in the past, I've discovered how MEGA time consuming overclocking and stability testing can be. It felt like the overclock is never quite done. Constantly adjusting settings by microns.

Lord... The headaches lol. This time around my goal is much more low noise, aesthetics and the sheer pleasure of learning and building. Adding the water custom loop building to my skillset
Regarding the pleasure of building it yourself; you're a bit like me, in that respect then.. I absolutely loved putting mine all together..

One of the most exciting parts was installing my full-cover water block on GPU.. so from what you've just said.. I'd recommend doing that yourself then.. especially if you've got the budget :)
So I'd grab an air cooled card. FTW or Classified then get a compatible, full-cover, custom block from one of the major manufacturers.. I recommend EK highly... their support staff is the best I've ever came across in terms of competence and knowledge and speed of service :)

ASUS make great cards too; but their customer service isn't as good as EVGA... and you're getting less, for the same money (or more money) when you compare the highest STRIX 1080 with the EVGA 1080 Classified (or FTW)....

As for the rest; you'd have to ask someone else... but ASUS and EVGA are the two I've dealt with :)

Edited /\


P.S.

Anyway good luck, I kind of jelous of you. lol .. doing all this from the beginning :)
Even researching/picking your parts -- I enjoyed that part too :)

Good video comparing lots of different 1080 GPU's:
 
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#5
Thanks again. Yes indeed. PC building is a form of art nowadays it's going to be fun. I'll try to keep a log and post updates so you guys can see where things are going.

It's going to be my very first custom water loop. Hopefully, no disaster lolz
 
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#6
^Great! I am gonna tell me wife when she discovers my project: "This what I am doing is Art, baby, yes, real A-R-T!"
Thanks for the idea :) I also like the "pleasure of building" part. Creative manual hobbies are so good and keeps you away from soap media, sports, etc. :)
 

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#7
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#8
I noticed there are a bunch of different types of water blocks. Some are nickel or nickel+acetal or copper.
How do you choose?
 
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#9
I noticed there are a bunch of different types of water blocks. Some are nickel or nickel+acetal or copper.
How do you choose?
Personal preference.

Performance will be the same in any case.

So its more up to you and your aesthetic preference.

Raw copper will eventually tarnish in all setups (there's nothing that can be done to stop this).

Nickel plated copper doesn't tarnish as easily (the copper is hidden by the Nickel plating).

The 'Nickel only' usually means 'Nickel and Acrylic' (transparent AKA Plexi-tops). These blocks usually have Acrylic tops (to enable you to see the coolant flowing around your hardware) which is nice, if you pick a colourful coolant. But, Acrylic is more difficult to clean, because even small amounts of acid or harsh chemicals can damage it (maybe even eventually causing leaks). But the window is nicer to look at.

The 'Nickel+ acetal'
the Acrylic is just replaced with Acetal. Acetal is much stronger and can put up with harsher chemicals. Making the annual cleaning job less worrying. But if you do everything correct and run with the right coolant (and stay away from colours) you should only need to flush it once a year/or after 6 months then annually after that.

For full details on the different material types look here: (this is from the EK FAQ page about cleaning)
https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205235541-How-to-clean-water-blocks-

Some people believe some of the coolants have chemical reactions with Acrylic over a long period of time (as many coolants are based on Ethylene Glycol which can react with plastics. However everyone I've checked with, who runs these setups have never reported an issue.
Do take care when choosing tubing though; as some tubing is not compatible with some coolants.
For example the Mayhems XT-1 is not compatible with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing
 
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#10
low noise loops with hot components are hard to pull off and a some walk away disappointed, esp when cooling multiple sets of components.

minimum of two non-restrictive radiators, 3x120 and 2x120 or 140, 5x silent 800-1000 RPM fans, and a laing 355 with rpm (~1600-1700rpm is the sweet spot for me) control has been the magic formula for me if cooling CPU+GPU(s).

Because I run such low rpm I always use pull configuration and always as intakes, even if it builds some positive pressure in the case.

Graphics cards benefit the most from cooling (because they stay at max boost), but they are also the biggest PITA when trying to sell/replace them... and the GFX market moves so fast that every 6-8 months something new and awesome is coming out.

So selling a card with a block on it, and probably a voided warranty as a result is much harder which is why I didn't cool my card this time around.
 
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#11
Personal preference.

Performance will be the same in any case.

So its more up to you and your aesthetic preference.

Raw copper will eventually tarnish in all setups (there's nothing that can be done to stop this).

Nickel plated copper doesn't tarnish as easily (the copper is hidden by the Nickel plating).

The 'Nickel only' usually means 'Nickel and Acrylic' (transparent AKA Plexi-tops). These blocks usually have Acrylic tops (to enable you to see the coolant flowing around your hardware) which is nice, if you pick a colourful coolant. But, Acrylic is more difficult to clean, because even small amounts of acid or harsh chemicals can damage it (maybe even eventually causing leaks). But the window is nicer to look at.

The 'Nickel+ acetal'
the Acrylic is just replaced with Acetal. Acetal is much stronger and can put up with harsher chemicals. Making the annual cleaning job less worrying. But if you do everything correct and run with the right coolant (and stay away from colours) you should only need to flush it once a year/or after 6 months then annually after that.

For full details on the different material types look here: (this is from the EK FAQ page about cleaning)
https://ekwb.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205235541-How-to-clean-water-blocks-

Some people believe some of the coolants have chemical reactions with Acrylic over a long period of time (as many coolants are based on Ethylene Glycol which can react with plastics. However everyone I've checked with, who runs these setups have never reported an issue.
Do take care when choosing tubing though; as some tubing is not compatible with some coolants.
For example the Mayhems XT-1 is not compatible with PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Flexible Tubing
What do you think of mayhem colour solutions?
I hear that they are safe to use.

I REALLY wanna get that opaque fluorescent green colour in the tubes. Like the picture I linked.

I'm fine with maintenance just don't want to get a disaster
 
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#12
I've never added colour mate, although I suppose I will one day...

I'm working on some other projects at the minute (like trying to convert my EK water loop for sub-zero cooling) so I'd rather not add to an already complicated scenario lol.

Other people would probably be able to answer this one better.

If you are going with EK you could probably just stick to their coolant (at least that way you've got peace of mind if anything goes wrong).. I don't know if they do a fluorescent green but you could check the website.
 

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#13
What do you think of mayhem colour solutions?
Mayhems have very strict and lengthy loop cleaning restrictions to using their products. We have had members here who got certain colorants, which the loop was not prepared correctly, and the color immediately changed inside of the loop. Also there is the issue of dyeing parts in the loop from using color additives. I tend to stick to colored tubing and distilled water as it makes life much simpler.

good read on mayhems.... https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/unsatisfactory-mayhems-experience-input-requested.199168/
 
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#14
Mayhems have very strict and lengthy loop cleaning restrictions to using their products. We have had members here who got certain colorants, which the loop was not prepared correctly, and the color immediately changed inside of the loop. Also there is the issue of dyeing parts in the loop from using color additives. I tend to stick to colored tubing and distilled water as it makes life much simpler.

good read on mayhems.... https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/unsatisfactory-mayhems-experience-input-requested.199168/
Mayhems customer support is quite good; their chemical engineers and their support staff actually communicate with each other to help you if you really need it. Which is a bonus.

I have personal experience of this. And I've also watched a video on jayz2cents about something too (so its not just VIP's who get that benefit).
 
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#15
With todays mobo's stuffed with RGB leds... clear water and tubes already get enough tones and tunes and tonalities and tunification! I say this while I watch my open case with all I mention... spectacular, but enough is enough Las Vegas.. hahaha
 
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#16
Here is the list of components used for the build I'm inspiring myself from: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/Mx4CmG

What do you guys think I should use for

- psu
- ram
- mobo (to Match the theme and good performance)
- I intend to order pre assembled sleeved cables of the color I want.
 
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#17
i don't know all boards, but a Sabertooth White mobo comes to mind....