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HELP! Is My Monitor Getting Ready to Die, or is it something else?

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I'm a bit frantic right now, so apologies in advance. I was playing Battlefront II just now, when my PC up and turned off in the middle of a Co-Op game...I turned it back on and noticed the picture on my monitor was rather blinding. Really bright, damn near made my eyes hurt even. I then tried to check what picture setting I was on (I use the AORUS and Reader presets. I believe it was on AORUS this time) and I couldn't select the picture mode...I then tried a reset of all the settings, whereupon my picture now looks like this:

1616569234324.png


On my monitor at least, it looks sickly and VERY washed out no matter what aspects I try to change (brightness, contrast, etc.), and trying to type this on the screen is worse. Everything is all dull and dark and I'm seriously worried that my monitor is going to take a shit --- or worse, something else in my PC is going to kick the bucket. Help! :fear: :cry::fear:
 

Mussels

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Did you turn on HDR or something?

That image looks fine here
 
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cant see the problem from the screenshot.
may be link to the picture you use for background or attach it here so we have comparison.
if you have hdmi cable you can check if it works normally with your tv.
could it be g-sync/freesync incompatibility or monitor overdrive freaking out.
does it work normally when you set monitor at 60hz
 
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I mean... a screenshot won't tell us much of what it looks like on your display. Does Gigabyte use some sort of software to control the settings?

And yeah like @Mussels said you might have switched it into HDR mode and now it tries to display desktop (which is SDR) in HDR colourspace which would result in very flat, undersaturated image. And when was "super bright" it was probably in HDR which usually maxes out brightness and locks some of the settings, depending on the monitor.
 
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This happened to me. Contacted BenQ, they told me to replace the panel and enquired if it was under warranty, it wasn't. They then instructed me to buy a new monitor rather than order a new panel as both cost the same. That's what I did.
Years later I became aware that some of these monitors could be fixed but depend on the third-party repair tecnician's skills.
 
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More likely the monitor. That would be a lot easier to replace than a graphics card! (IIRC)

Also, FYI, TVs are often worse, they seem more likely to fail from a bad board, LED backlight (on LCDs) and a bad panel or a bad panel driver (especially on a Sharp LC-xxLEyyyy) (Where "xx" is the two digits of the screen size)

Because it's not a TV, it's not as likely to kick the bucket. Thus, it looks like you got unlucky and got a faulty computer monitor.

In fact, my father's and mom's TV, suddenly kicked the bucket this month, suddenly gave code #6 (red LED blinks 6 times, one blink-per-second, pauses and repeats, thus, the blinks of doom, the TV version of an RROD!)

(It was a later-2010s' Sony Bravia that I don't think was bigger than 40 inches, that one, surely didn't last like the big honkin' Sony Bravia LCD TV that we have in the lower floor, just outside of my bedroom) (The oldest TV, that I know of, is still truckin' along now!) (In my father's and mom's bedroom now, is a bigger Vizio that's possibly as old or closer to that time.)
 
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Have you tried a different monitor? You need to do this to isolate the problem to either your current monitor or the computer.

If it worked fine before, I doubt it is the cables. Cables don't suddenly go bad without some sort of outside physical influence (stepped on, yanked on, chewed on). I am assuming the cable connections (on both ends) were securely fastened.

If you don't have another monitor to try, most TVs in recent years support computer input.

I will say, I suspect the monitor too. It is not uncommon for illumination devices (like LED backlighting) to suddenly gain in brightness due to excess current draw just before they fail completely. Though typically, that period of excess brightness only lasts a few seconds before that excess current fries (opens) a component in that circuit as it is no longer able to tolerate the extra heat caused by that excess current.
 
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Bit of an update for ya peeps (after I slept off my panic, lol). So, after I posted this thread last night in a bit of a freak out mode, I shut my rig down -- like really shut it down, as I turned off the PSU and unplugged it from my surge protector -- and unplugged the monitor from my surge protector, just to be extra safe. Fast forward to now; fired up my rig and the monitor (of course) and the picture was fine booting into my desktop. Stupid me, I'd totally forgotten that I'd enabled HDR via Display Settings in Windows, so I turned that off and was able to tinker with the picture settings via the little analog stick on the front of my monitor :oops::oops::oops:

Also, I figured out why my picture looked all crappy (at least on my end) last night. Turns out it was a combination of having HDR on (like I said, I'd forgotten I had it on) and using the software version of Gigabyte's OSD Sidekick.

TLDR: Had a brain fart and forgot HDR was on via Windows, turned it off and now things work as they should.

Now if I could just figure out why my rig up and shut off last night even though the electricity in my house didn't actually go out...
 

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its because HDR is bad and it was crying inside

(usually sudden shutdowns with fans and lights off are severe overheating, or OCP in the PSU)
 
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its because HDR is bad and it was crying inside

(usually sudden shutdowns with fans and lights off are severe overheating, or OCP in the PSU)

OK...something is definitely up because my rig just did the same exact thing again, while playing Battlefront II -- straight up shut down... Great.

Edit: Found this Microsoft document while doing a search on the event 41 code in Event Viewer. It's...not good.

"Event ID 41 is not recorded or the bug check code is zero. This behavior might indicate a power supply problem." It goes on to state:


If the power to a computer is interrupted, the computer might shut down without generating a Stop error. If it does generate a Stop error, it might not finish writing the error codes to disk. The next time the computer starts, it might not log Event ID 41. Or, if it does, the bug check code is zero. Conditions such as the following might be the cause:


  • In the case of a portable computer, the battery was removed or completely drained.
  • In the case of a desktop computer, the computer was unplugged or experienced a power outage.
  • The power supply is underpowered or faulty.

Have a nauseating feeling that my trusty Seasonic is dying you guys. And the only other PSU around here is in the family computer downstairs :cry:
 
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Also, FYI, TVs are often worse, they seem more likely to fail from a bad board, LED backlight (on LCDs) and a bad panel or a bad panel driver (especially on a Sharp LC-xxLEyyyy) (Where "xx" is the two digits of the screen size)

Talking of backlight, has anyone ever changed the LED'S in a TV display?.

My 14 year old TV has very little brightness after all these years. but it's still watchable, but at some point I'm going to have to open it up & change the LED'S.
 
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Now if I could just figure out why my rig up and shut off last night even though the electricity in my house didn't actually go out...
Could it be an automatic Windows safety feature as to prevent possible damage to the display. Perhaps your system recognized a problem and shut it down before it could cause permanent damage. Just Speculating.
 
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OK...something is definitely up because my rig just did the same exact thing again, while playing Battlefront II -- straight up shut down... Great.

Edit: Found this Microsoft document while doing a search on the event 41 code in Event Viewer. It's...not good.

"Event ID 41 is not recorded or the bug check code is zero. This behavior might indicate a power supply problem." It goes on to state:


If the power to a computer is interrupted, the computer might shut down without generating a Stop error. If it does generate a Stop error, it might not finish writing the error codes to disk. The next time the computer starts, it might not log Event ID 41. Or, if it does, the bug check code is zero. Conditions such as the following might be the cause:


  • In the case of a portable computer, the battery was removed or completely drained.
  • In the case of a desktop computer, the computer was unplugged or experienced a power outage.
  • The power supply is underpowered or faulty.

Have a nauseating feeling that my trusty Seasonic is dying you guys. And the only other PSU around here is in the family computer downstairs :cry:
Power supply or unstable RAM on Ryzen.
 
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Talking of backlight, has anyone ever changed the LED'S in a TV display?.

My 14 year old TV has very little brightness after all these years. but it's still watchable, but at some point I'm going to have to open it up & change the LED'S.
Yes, the LED & the onboard motherboard to a much newer model. My 47" LED was under full warranty. The tech came to my house and did it all on the floor. lol
 
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HDR on PC is a total mess.

I have two HDR screens to AMD and Nvidia and both of them look utterly shit at all times with HDR enabled. The tiny amount of content that supports HDR doesn't look that much better in HDR and even then, no HDR display is perfect so there's still this compression of luminance that occurs and ruins the experience.

As for all SDR content when HDR is enabled - it's a total disaster. 0-255 becomes worse than 16-235. Everything looks completely wrong, all the time - saturation balance is off, contrast is awful, blacks are grey, whites are grey. Whoever implemented it at Microsoft needs to be taken outside and shot by firing squad - Its so pathetic that I don't think it's possible to imagine a worse implementation.

Lets get this straight - 0.01% of what you do on a PC needs HDR, but to enable HDR support on the windows desktop you're supposed to utterly ruin 99.99% of your experience? WHY THE HELL is there not automatic HDR detection that enables HDR mode only when HDR content is active, just like exclusive fullscreen has the ability to change resolution and refresh rate?
 
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HDR on PC is a total mess.

I have two HDR screens to AMD and Nvidia and both of them look utterly shit at all times with HDR enabled. The tiny amount of content that supports HDR doesn't look that much better in HDR and even then, no HDR display is perfect so there's still this compression of luminance that occurs and ruins the experience.

As for all SDR content when HDR is enabled - it's a total disaster. 0-255 becomes worse than 16-235. Everything looks completely wrong, all the time - saturation balance is off, contrast is awful, blacks are grey, whites are grey. Whoever implemented it at Microsoft needs to be taken outside and shot by firing squad - Its so pathetic that I don't think it's possible to imagine a worse implementation.

Lets get this straight - 0.01% of what you do on a PC needs HDR, but to enable HDR support on the windows desktop you're supposed to utterly ruin 99.99% of your experience? WHY THE HELL is there not automatic HDR detection that enables HDR mode only when HDR content is active, just like exclusive fullscreen has the ability to change resolution and refresh rate?
 
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FINALLY.
Why wasn't this a mandatory requirement for HDR from the beginning?! I was late to the HDR game, only really started using it two years ago. Some poor bastards have been having to manually switch it for the past four years with this half-baked, almost worthless implementation.
 
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OK...something is definitely up because my rig just did the same exact thing again, while playing Battlefront II -- straight up shut down... Great.

Edit: Found this Microsoft document while doing a search on the event 41 code in Event Viewer. It's...not good.

"Event ID 41 is not recorded or the bug check code is zero. This behavior might indicate a power supply problem." It goes on to state:


If the power to a computer is interrupted, the computer might shut down without generating a Stop error. If it does generate a Stop error, it might not finish writing the error codes to disk. The next time the computer starts, it might not log Event ID 41. Or, if it does, the bug check code is zero. Conditions such as the following might be the cause:


  • In the case of a portable computer, the battery was removed or completely drained.
  • In the case of a desktop computer, the computer was unplugged or experienced a power outage.
  • The power supply is underpowered or faulty.

Have a nauseating feeling that my trusty Seasonic is dying you guys. And the only other PSU around here is in the family computer downstairs :cry:
Maybe failing MOSFET(s) or the like on the motherboard! Yikes! I hope that changing the PSU solves the problem. :twitch:
 
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saw this post on my phone and at first I read it as "HELP! Is My Mother Getting Ready to Die, or is it something else?"before i did a double take and said oh "monitor"...sucks getting old :laugh::cry:
 
Joined
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Case Corsair 275R
Audio Device(s) Technics SA-EX140 receiver with Polk VT60 speakers
Power Supply eVGA Supernova G3 750W
Mouse Logitech G Pro (Hero)
Software Windows 11 Pro x64 23H2
Talking of backlight, has anyone ever changed the LED'S in a TV display?.

My 14 year old TV has very little brightness after all these years. but it's still watchable, but at some point I'm going to have to open it up & change the LED'S.
You probably have CCFLs powered by a high-voltage inverter. LEDs didn't exist for backlights at that time, TMK!
 
Joined
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Case Corsair 275R
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Power Supply eVGA Supernova G3 750W
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Software Windows 11 Pro x64 23H2
Nope. It's LEDS as you can more or less point them out individually with a black background.
Did you pull the panel off to see what the condition is for the backlights?
 
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System Name Brightworks Systems BWS-6 E-IV
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Cooling Quality case, 2 x Fractal Design 140mm fans, stock CPU HSF
Memory 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 Corsair Vengeance
Video Card(s) EVGA GEForce GTX 1050Ti 4Gb GDDR5
Storage Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD
Display(s) Samsung S24E650BW LED x 2
Case Fractal Design Define R4
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You probably have CCFLs powered by a high-voltage inverter. LEDs didn't exist for backlights at that time, TMK!
Nope. It's LEDS as you can more or less point them out individually with a black background.
Yes, delshay could be right. The first commercially available LED backlit TVs came out (from Sony) in 2004. LED backlit monitors came out shortly after that.
 

Mussels

Freshwater Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 6, 2004
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Cooling Alphacool Apex UV - Alphacool Eisblock XPX Aurora + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate
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Video Card(s) Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Underclocked to 1700Mhz 0.750v (375W down to 250W))
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Display(s) Phillips 32 32M1N5800A (4k144), LG 32" (4K60) | Gigabyte G32QC (2k165) | Phillips 328m6fjrmb (2K144)
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Benchmark Scores Nyooom.
OK...something is definitely up because my rig just did the same exact thing again, while playing Battlefront II -- straight up shut down... Great.

Edit: Found this Microsoft document while doing a search on the event 41 code in Event Viewer. It's...not good.

"Event ID 41 is not recorded or the bug check code is zero. This behavior might indicate a power supply problem." It goes on to state:


If the power to a computer is interrupted, the computer might shut down without generating a Stop error. If it does generate a Stop error, it might not finish writing the error codes to disk. The next time the computer starts, it might not log Event ID 41. Or, if it does, the bug check code is zero. Conditions such as the following might be the cause:


  • In the case of a portable computer, the battery was removed or completely drained.
  • In the case of a desktop computer, the computer was unplugged or experienced a power outage.
  • The power supply is underpowered or faulty.

Have a nauseating feeling that my trusty Seasonic is dying you guys. And the only other PSU around here is in the family computer downstairs :cry:

its PSU or something badly ovearheating (GPU, PSU again, CPU)

Run CPU stress test, then GPU test seperately, then both together

If both crash seperately or together, PSU
If just one crashes, check that hardwares cooling
 
Joined
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Video Card(s) Asus GTX 970 Mini
Storage Kingston A2000 512Gb NVME
Display(s) AOC 24" Freesync 1m.s. 75Hz
Case Corsair 450D High Air Flow.
Audio Device(s) No need.
Power Supply FSP Aurum 650W
Mouse Yes
Keyboard Of course
Software W10 Pro 64 bit
Brand new Seasonic should be fine, but it is possible to get a bad one. :(
 
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