help with a few questions about pc shuting down

[RodClutcher]

hi to anyone that reads this and wants to give some information

this started a few months back. my sisters pc randomly shuts down when gaming and wont turn back on until its been off for about 5 minutes.
to me that says overheating so i checked temps and run stress tests seeing max 80c on the cpu so i changed to a 120mm aio from the stock intel cooler keeping teps down in the mid 70c range

then ive run stress tests on the gpu seeing max temps in the 70c range ( system still shuts down and wont turn back on for 5 minutes when shes playing games ) so maybe its not overheating and something else is wrong

i then changed the cpu mother bored and ram with spears i have. im currently only re using the psu and ssd plus fans and aio and gpu ( system still shuts down)

i have checked nothing is overclocked and that everything is set to default in the bios and that drivers are up to date.

would a bad psu make a system shuts down and wont turn back on for 5 minutes ?? . currently i don't have a spear to try but im open to buying a new one if its a possibility that its the reason for the shutdown

i dont think its a software problem or gpu problem but i will be testing with my old gpu tomorrow to rule that out also. if a psu and a gpu change does not fix it then idk hat to try next apart from a clean windows install but i dont see how software would have them symptoms or can it ??

also its a hard shutdown. no error message or blue screen

 

[xtreemchaos]

yes that sounds like something over heating in the PSU and it wont restart untill its had time to cool off. fix-new PSU i think.

 

[RodClutcher]

yes that sounds like something over heating in the PSU and it wont restart untill its had time to cool off. fix-new PSU i think.

ok so yes a bad psu can make a system shuts down and wont turn back on for 5 minutes.

thank you for clarifying its a possibility. i will replace it and hope it the fix

 

[xtreemchaos]

is there any dust in the PSU ? if so clean it out because it could just be dust tripping the thermal protection.

 

[RodClutcher]

is there any dust in the PSU ? if so clean it out because it could just be dust tripping the thermal protection.

i should of added that 1st thing i did with the system was took everything apart dusted everything changed thermal compound when i was testing the temps .
i know its not advised but i do take apart the psu and clean them out. i have 4 systems i regularly maintain. i try keep them dust free every 6 months

ill replace it and if it still shutting down ill go from there but idk im kind of stumped at what else it could be @ this point its pretty much a new pc. old parts but everything pretty much swapped out

 

[DeathtoGnomes]

Dont go wasting money on the first response that your PSU is bad, do some testing, test the system with a known good PSU atleast.

Knowing the system specs matter here. Assume you buy the same PSU as whats in it, after you install it and it has the same issues ( that might not creep up til down the road), you wont be able to return it (usually). Now if the PSU is underrated or a known poor design ( system specs again), we can suggest a better option.

 

[r.h.p]

yep psu i had i go was doing similar shit , 2 year old corsair modular , seems unlikely but it was . Luckily it had a 3 year warranty . I didn't have the gear to test a fucked psu so i took it to a shop and they declared it fucked and i got the warranty

 

[RodClutcher]

Dont go wasting money on the first response that your PSU is bad, do some testing, test the system with a known good PSU atleast.

Knowing the system specs matter here. Assume you buy the same PSU as whats in it, after you install it and it has the same issues ( that might not creep up til down the road), you wont be able to return it (usually). Now if the PSU is underrated or a known poor design ( system specs again), we can suggest a better option.

yep psu i had i go was doing similar shit , 2 year old corsair modular , seems unlikely but it was . Luckily it had a 3 year warranty . I didn't have the gear to test a fucked psu so i took it to a shop and they declared it fucked and i got the warranty

its cool ill try a change 1st and if im having problems ill come back to ask for some more advise. thanks

 

[Bill_Bright]

would a bad psu make a system shuts down and wont turn back on for 5 minutes ?? . currently i don't have a spear to try

You said you have 4 computers you maintain. Perhaps you can temporarily pull one of their power supplies and try it in your sister's computer to see what happens.

Dont go wasting money on the first response that your PSU is bad,

I will note the OP has said he already tried a different motherboard, different CPU, and different RAM and still had this problem. The PSU is the most logical first response - it certainly was my first thought.

He also said he is going to try a different GPU tomorrow just to rule that out. That is a wise precaution but it does not sound like a GPU problem.

With 4 PCs he maintains, his sister's computer and perhaps his own computer (if not one of those 4), IMO it would NOT be a waste of money to simply have a spare PSU on hand. In fact, IMO, everyone who, by choice or otherwise, has become the family, friends, and/or neighborhood go-to computer guy should have, if nothing else, a known good spare PSU on hand.

@RodClutcher - first, don't waste your time reinstalling Windows - yet. I agree this does not look to be a software issue. And besides, reinstalling the OS should always be a last resort option. Besides the fact reinstalling Windows often does not fix the problem, you lose your installed programs, customizations, and personal data files. And you could possibly put the computer months, if not years behind in security updates.

Plus you destroy any potential evidence of the problem. So if by chance reinstalling does fix the problem, you don't learn anything from it that may help prevent recurrence of the problem.

I think it wise to try a different graphics solution just to remove that from the equation. But I don't think it will resolve your problem - at least not permanently. If the second card is significantly less power hungry and the problem is caused by a failing (thus weak) component in your PSU, your problem may not appear right away. But that failing component will continue to age and weaker further and eventually the problem will return - only not intermittently. Then your sister will be unhappy with you for not fixing the problem permanently.

As for cleaning the PSU, I agree. Anything that plugs into the wall can kill! While the deadly voltages are supposed to bleed off almost immediately, we are talking about a potentially faulty PSU here. No point in risking injury. So unless you are a properly trained and qualified electronics technician. Don't open PSU cases - there are no "user-serviceable" parts inside anyway. But you can still clean them by using a wooden Popsicle or glue stick to hold the fan stationary (so you don't over-spin it and damage the bearings), then blast the heat trapping dust out of the PSU with compressed air.

One last thing you can try temporarily is to remove the side panel of the PC case and blast a desk fan in there. If this is heat related, it might help keep your sister gaming until your replacement PSU arrives - assuming that is the problem.

 

[xtreemchaos]

thanks Bill

most logical first response

 

[John Naylor]

1. Well a stock cooler should be replaced with a 3rd party cooler on any gaming box, but keep in mind. a $50 air cooler will easily outperform and 120mm AIO ever made. .... and most 240's

2. You changed the motherboard ... always a "last resort" kinda thing. While supposed to be doable by removing all hardware drivers and installing new ones, for whatever reason, most of us will wind up to a fresh windows install. If for nothing else, it eliminates borked drives as a possible cause. When troubleshooting, change components one at a time .... by changing MoBos, you introduced a whole new set of additional potential problems, significantly makeing the trouble shooting process more difficult. On all of our builds, we typically install the OS on an SSD and then, on a 2nd (SSD or SSHD), install abck up to allow booting to the 2nd installation. This permits an easy and quick test to see if Windows is borked. And if you do need to reinstall.... it's just a matter of cloningg one tpthe other. If you change MoBos, all your apps and data remain untouched, just install the apps over themselves for those that require user files or registry settings.

3. A bad PSU can cause many things, but the 1st step in troubleshooting would be to see if PSU is properly sized for you syste,. Fill in your system profile, inc;luding specvif make and models for each component so this can be looked at.

4. What is your case cooling. What ,model fans, what size / rpm , how many ins / how many outs

5. Have you disabled auto restart after crashes ?

6. What do your Windows system logs say ? Use event viewer to determine existence of any errors or warnings in the file ?

7. How old is the PC ? How often to your perform maintenance .... ypu said you're cleaning air filters, blowing out dust every 6 moinths, Anyhting else ? Removing / reseating components ?

8. Did you create a system baseline ... running a stress test (RoG Real Bench / Furmark) and recording voltages, temps etc w/ HWiNFO ? If so, have your periodically checked for variations ?

9. Have you checked for voltage instabilities, hi temps etc (HWiNFO) since this problem surfaced ?

10. When you ran the stress test, were you observing / logging data w/ HWiNFO ?

11. You indicated you had 4 PCs, can you not borrow a PSU from one of those for a few minutes ?

12. Going forward .....

Diagnostic Steps (Whats wrong now):
a) make sure auto restart is disabled
b) examine Windows System logs with Event Viewer, record (copy to a Notepad file) all messages associated with errors or warnings
c) do a web search on all messages for causes and solutions, correct where possible.
d) proceed to either hardware or OS / Driver troubleshooting depending upon what seems likely from above
e) Create a baseline ... Run RoG RealBench (8 minute benchmark) while observing and recording max core temps and voltage / system voltages/ GPU temps and voltages and anything that "pops out" as cause for concern. If you crash, read Windows System Log
f) Use a 3D Benchmark or Furmark to test GPU stability... again record GPU temps
g) Take off side panel and use a desk fan to blow air inside case ... see if temps improve ... but you seem to have addressed this w/ the cooler swap.
h) Act accordingly based upon above results ...

Hardware troubleshooting:
a) address and case cooling if that was determined to be an issue. Address following issues as may have been indicated by results in Diagnostic section
b) remove, clean and re-seat all hardware and cables. open ya MoBo manual and make sure ya have matched pair of RAM (purchased in same package) in correct slots
c) Make sure EPOS cable near CPU is installed and firmly connetced
d) Run MemTest86+ and go to bed ... look at results in morning
e) if passes, repeat steps e and f from Diagnostics section above... if not run 1 stick at a time in primary slot. Swap RAM if available and try again
f) Uninstall GFX card drivers and associated applications, use CCleaner to remove any leftover GFX card related entries ONLY. Make registry backup before proceeding.
g) Shutdown and install GFX card .... restart and install drives / desired associated applications
h) Using borrowed PSU, shut down and replace.... be sure to replace ALL necesssary connections. repeat e and f from diagnostic section

OS / Driver Troubleshooting:
a) Run the usual OS verification steps such as sfc scannow, Windows Update Checker, repair etc Check tenforums for instructions (assuming windows 10)
b) Download all hardware drivers for you current system *** direct from manufacturer's web sites**
c) Disconnect your connection to internet.
d) Check for any presence or remnants of old MoBo hardware drivers and remove.
d+) Takes bit more time but oft worth the effort ... Uninstall all hardware drivers (make sure you have replacements from b) before doing to)
e) Install all hardware drivers ... MoBo 1st ... again using only drivers from manufacturers web site

Would have added a few more tips but lunch over and have to get back to work

 

[Bill_Bright]

1. Well a stock cooler should be replaced with a 3rd party cooler on any gaming box

Well, of course that's a blanket statement and like all blanket statements, it is just not true (and yes - I see the irony in that statement). Stock coolers are much more capable than they were in years past. And of course, even the best cooler (stock or 3rd party) requires adequate case cooling first and foremost.

There are millions of stock coolers on gaming machines providing adequate cooling right now. It is silly to suggest they all need to be replaced just because the computer is used for gaming. Check your temps first. I like Core Temp for that as it sits in your system tray/notification area and checks temps in real time. It they sit near thermal threshold levels for extended periods of time, or worse, cross over thermal thresholds, check your case cooling first. All you may need is another case fan to increase the flow of cool air through the case.

While it is true that many of the better aftermarket coolers provide better cooling than the OEM stock coolers, cooler temperatures does NOT automatically it is better. As long as your temps are comfortably within the "normal operating temperature range", you are fine. That is, there is nothing to suggest a CPU running at 25°C when tasked will perform better, be more stable or have better longevity than a CPU that runs at 55°C or even warmer when tasked.

Now if you are doing some serious overclocking, then you probably will need a 3rd party cooler. But then if doing some serious overclocking, hopefully you did your homework and bought a CPU designed to support such overclocking - most of which don't come with stock OEM coolers. So with those, the whole point is moot.

Remember, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air. The CPU cooler need only toss the CPU's heat into that flow. And don't forget ambient (room) temps play important roll in proper computer cooling too. If your room is hot and you have poor case cooling, it will not matter how good your CPU cooler is. Basements make great (and cool) computer gaming rooms.

And last, it is the user's responsibility to set up proper case cooling.

 

[RodClutcher]

for cleaning i do a full strip down every 6 months but normally i will not remove ram or cpu from the socket. its stupidly dusty in my place. i know people that go years with out seeing the amount of dust i do in a month

in this case i feel after cleaning and doing some basic tests on the parts. changing them out is the next correct step because the system still shutdown with different parts meaning to me no point testing the original parts again and to look at the one that have not been changed out hints to why im thinking its a psu issue or hopefully not software related ( no peripherals used apart from mouse keyboard and monitor ) parts changed out. cpu motherboard and ram in one go.

i was thinking possible bad solder joint or rusted tracer bad cap ect being the age of the parts.( 9 ish yrs old) if it was new i would jump right to a change of part

i use hwinfo64 to check temps .

heaven for the gpu test just left running for a while and Prime95 for cpu maybe not the best but i thought it be ok to use .

no MemTest86+ as i didn't see the point of to be honest.

if its software related i don't know why the system would need 5 minutes before allowing it self to turn back on but its windows after all.( this is why i went right to temps and thermal shutdown)

i cleared cmos when making sure nothing was overclocked so auto restart would be on now but would of been on before if the option exists honestly i haven't looked.

only thing i change in bio is turn off chassis warning sound as the side panel has been replaced with a custom mesh panel old cased kind of suck for air intake unless you mod them i don't know who though closed panel was a smart idea

i prefer to have my pcs set up with a primary ssd OS and a platter storage drive and i like to use macrium reflect and take clones of the C drives every so often so i can restore if they do dumb stuff to the OS Malware,virus ect.
its possible doing that ive corrupted files so yeh at some point ill need to start from 100% clean install @ that point ill rule out driver or software issues

id say no the current psu isn't properly sized its a 750w cooler master and the system should only need something like a 550w being that its a i7 2600k 24 gig ddr3 and a 1050ti with 1 ssd 1 storage drive a 120mm aio 2 case fans.

i guess i could use a psu that i know is working out of one of the systems but i don't like the idea of it potentially having two systems go bad and no was in heck am i going to put my new parts in that 9 yr old thing haha so i ordered a SilverStone ET550-B 550W 80+ Bronze Essential Power Supply for $65 i guess ill find out next week if that's was a mistake or not haha...

when it comes to testing with a different gpu i have a spare 1050ti that uses a 4 pin power connector

the 1050ti that is currently in the system only draws power from the pci slot but i don't think the power draw is of any significant difference

she only plays facebook games and something called maplestory so i dont think they are demanding games.
maybe they are pushing the system harder then i think.
i don't play them mmo type games but on saying that the system only shuts down when gaming.
i have not yet seen it 1st hand when doing any of the stress tests also its not consistent.
some days it will not happen when playing for hours.
others it will happen with in a short time then be ok again after 5 ish minutes and last how ever it wants to before repeating.

possible interference in the power lines i don't know if that's a thing ?? or overload in amps but id imagine that would trip a fuse or shut down the other stuff plugged in to that line. monitor and mobile charger on a 4 power strip directly connected to the wall. maybe bad power strip ??

 

[r.h.p]

for cleaning i do a full strip down every 6 months but normally i will not remove ram or cpu from the socket. its stupidly dusty in my place. i know people that go years with out seeing the amount of dust i do in a month

in this case i feel after cleaning and doing some basic tests on the parts. changing them out is the next correct step because the system still shutdown with different parts meaning to me no point testing the original parts again and to look at the one that have not been changed out hints to why im thinking its a psu issue or hopefully not software related ( no peripherals used apart from mouse keyboard and monitor ) parts changed out. cpu motherboard and ram in one go.

i was thinking possible bad solder joint or rusted tracer bad cap ect being the age of the parts.( 9 ish yrs old) if it was new i would jump right to a change of part

i use hwinfo64 to check temps .

heaven for the gpu test just left running for a while and Prime95 for cpu maybe not the best but i thought it be ok to use .

no MemTest86+ as i didn't see the point of to be honest.

if its software related i don't know why the system would need 5 minutes before allowing it self to turn back on but its windows after all.( this is why i went right to temps and thermal shutdown)

i cleared cmos when making sure nothing was overclocked so auto restart would be on now but would of been on before if the option exists honestly i haven't looked.

only thing i change in bio is turn off chassis warning sound as the side panel has been replaced with a custom mesh panel old cased kind of suck for air intake unless you mod them i don't know who though closed panel was a smart idea

i prefer to have my pcs set up with a primary ssd OS and a platter storage drive and i like to use macrium reflect and take clones of the C drives every so often so i can restore if they do dumb stuff to the OS Malware,virus ect.
its possible doing that ive corrupted files so yeh at some point ill need to start from 100% clean install @ that point ill rule out driver or software issues

id say no the current psu isn't properly sized its a 750w cooler master and the system should only need something like a 550w being that its a i7 2600k 24 gig ddr3 and a 1050ti with 1 ssd 1 storage drive a 120mm aio 2 case fans.

i guess i could use a psu that i know is working out of one of the systems but i don't like the idea of it potentially having two systems go bad and no was in heck am i going to put my new parts in that 9 yr old thing haha so i ordered a SilverStone ET550-B 550W 80+ Bronze Essential Power Supply for $65 i guess ill find out next week if that's was a mistake or not haha...

when it comes to testing with a different gpu i have a spare 1050ti that uses a 4 pin power connector

the 1050ti that is currently in the system only draws power from the pci slot but i don't think the power draw is of any significant difference

she only plays facebook games and something called maplestory so i dont think they are demanding games.
maybe they are pushing the system harder then i think.
i don't play them mmo type games but on saying that the system only shuts down when gaming.
i have not yet seen it 1st hand when doing any of the stress tests also its not consistent.
some days it will not happen when playing for hours.
others it will happen with in a short time then be ok again after 5 ish minutes and last how ever it wants to before repeating.

possible interference in the power lines i don't know if that's a thing ?? or overload in amps but id imagine that would trip a fuse or shut down the other stuff plugged in to that line. monitor and mobile charger on a 4 power strip directly connected to the wall. maybe bad power strip ??

it will eat at you until its fixed

 

[DeathtoGnomes]

for cleaning i do a full strip down every 6 months but normally i will not remove ram or cpu from the socket. its stupidly dusty in my place. i know people that go years with out seeing the amount of dust i do in a month

in this case i feel after cleaning and doing some basic tests on the parts. changing them out is the next correct step because the system still shutdown with different parts meaning to me no point testing the original parts again and to look at the one that have not been changed out hints to why im thinking its a psu issue or hopefully not software related ( no peripherals used apart from mouse keyboard and monitor ) parts changed out. cpu motherboard and ram in one go.

i was thinking possible bad solder joint or rusted tracer bad cap ect being the age of the parts.( 9 ish yrs old) if it was new i would jump right to a change of part

i use hwinfo64 to check temps .

heaven for the gpu test just left running for a while and Prime95 for cpu maybe not the best but i thought it be ok to use .

no MemTest86+ as i didn't see the point of to be honest.

if its software related i don't know why the system would need 5 minutes before allowing it self to turn back on but its windows after all.( this is why i went right to temps and thermal shutdown)

i cleared cmos when making sure nothing was overclocked so auto restart would be on now but would of been on before if the option exists honestly i haven't looked.

only thing i change in bio is turn off chassis warning sound as the side panel has been replaced with a custom mesh panel old cased kind of suck for air intake unless you mod them i don't know who though closed panel was a smart idea

i prefer to have my pcs set up with a primary ssd OS and a platter storage drive and i like to use macrium reflect and take clones of the C drives every so often so i can restore if they do dumb stuff to the OS Malware,virus ect.
its possible doing that ive corrupted files so yeh at some point ill need to start from 100% clean install @ that point ill rule out driver or software issues

id say no the current psu isn't properly sized its a 750w cooler master and the system should only need something like a 550w being that its a i7 2600k 24 gig ddr3 and a 1050ti with 1 ssd 1 storage drive a 120mm aio 2 case fans.

i guess i could use a psu that i know is working out of one of the systems but i don't like the idea of it potentially having two systems go bad and no was in heck am i going to put my new parts in that 9 yr old thing haha so i ordered a SilverStone ET550-B 550W 80+ Bronze Essential Power Supply for $65 i guess ill find out next week if that's was a mistake or not haha...

when it comes to testing with a different gpu i have a spare 1050ti that uses a 4 pin power connector

the 1050ti that is currently in the system only draws power from the pci slot but i don't think the power draw is of any significant difference

she only plays facebook games and something called maplestory so i dont think they are demanding games.
maybe they are pushing the system harder then i think.
i don't play them mmo type games but on saying that the system only shuts down when gaming.
i have not yet seen it 1st hand when doing any of the stress tests also its not consistent.
some days it will not happen when playing for hours.
others it will happen with in a short time then be ok again after 5 ish minutes and last how ever it wants to before repeating.

possible interference in the power lines i don't know if that's a thing ?? or overload in amps but id imagine that would trip a fuse or shut down the other stuff plugged in to that line. monitor and mobile charger on a 4 power strip directly connected to the wall. maybe bad power strip ??

with all this, there is the chance that you had some static discharge and not know it.

 

[Bill_Bright]

for cleaning i do a full strip down every 6 months but normally i will not remove ram or cpu from the socket. its stupidly dusty in my place. i know people that go years with out seeing the amount of dust i do in a month

Then it seems apparent to me, you need a different case - one that has removable, washable air filters.

Unless you leave all your windows open all the time, it is important to note most "house-dust" does not come from the great outdoors. By far, the majority of house-dust consists of (1) dead skin (dander) and hair from us humans and pets, (2) microscopic critters that eat that dander, and (3) the microscopic fecal matter those critters leave behind.

Other house dust content includes bits of lint from rugs, carpets, clothing and upholstering, kitchen smoke and oils, tobacco smoke. And yes, some pollen and actual dust from outdoors.

The fewer the number of animals (including humans) in the house, the less house-dust you will have. And if you do have animals and they are constantly running around and stirring up dust, you will have more dust drawn into your computer case.

I used to have 2 kids, a grandkid, and two dogs living in this house and I used to have to clean my filter every couple months and break down the computers and lug them outside for thorough cleaning twice a year. Today, its an empty nest and now I wash my filters twice a year. I Have not had to clean the interiors in more than 2 years. Same cases.

With my last case on this computer, it had no filters - and my back suffered for it. I will never has a case that does not have removable, washable air filters again.

Even with filters, dust will eventually get inside. But filters reduce the need for thorough interior cleaning by a very significant amount.

By the way - cats are the worst. Their dander is very oily compared to dogs (even hounds) and humans. And if the user is a cat owner and smokes around the computer too, there's a good chance you will need a hammer and chisel and a paint scraper to clean the interior of a neglected machine.

normally i will not remove ram or cpu from the socket

That's good. You should not have to. Those sockets are specifically designed to keep dust from getting between the contacts. You risk greater damage through mishandling and ESD when reseating RAM, CPUs and expansion cards. A decent blast with compressed air should be all you need to restore efficient cooling.

 

[RodClutcher]

hi again everyone

so i just replaced the psu in the system and looks like its running fine so far BUT in hwinfo64 i am seeing add temperature readings i have added some photos of the temps sorry they are just off my phone. i dont have screen capture programs on that pc atm why is it showing Auxiliary temps @ 100 plus also what is Auxiliary mean and is it something i need to be worried about

thanks

 

[DeathtoGnomes]

hi again everyone

so i just replaced the psu in the system and looks like its running fine so far BUT in hwinfo64 i am seeing add temperature readings i have added some photos of the temps sorry they are just off my phone. i dont have screen capture programs on that pc atm why is it showing Auxiliary temps @ 100 plus also what is Auxiliary mean and is it something i need to be worried about

thanks

windows has screen capture tools, I prefer the Snipping Tool, but thats being phased out in favor of Snip & Sketch.
also if you save a log to file uploading that could help if anyone looks at them.

 

[Bill_Bright]

When hardware monitors attempt to read sensors that don't exist (or are faulty), they often display temps that cannot be possible. 121°C is well above the boiling point of water. In fact, it is even above the melting point of some solders. I would not worry about that reading. Your CPU and other temps look fine.

Your 3.3VDC voltage reading is another story. The ATX Form Factor standard allows for ±5% variance. That means it can be from 3.14V to 3.47VDC. Yours is showing as low as 1.624V. Not sure the computer would even run if that were true. You might need to try yet another PSU. If you get similar readings, its likely your motherboard sensors.

 

[RodClutcher]

its a old motherboard .from what you say it sounds like a none active sensors
i don't screen cap often so yeh ill remember windows has a built in one next time
any way thanks again for that info

 

[RodClutcher]

well apparently the problem is still happening with computers shutting down on my sister. i say computers because ive now 100% swapped her other computer with one i know is works perfect with a new clean install of windows

i changed all power leads and tipple checked nothing is shorting on the power strip or extension cord. all new with quality leads

now i am thinking the only thing left is something she is plugging in to the computers is making it shutdown. is that a possible thing ???

she has one mouse one keyboard a usb head set and one monitor im not sure exactly the makes and models ect but i can find out if its any difference. i know the monitor is old and isnt hdmi and its using an adapter from vga to hdmi could that maybe making it shutdown

i can run benchmarks on both computers for days with out a shutdown. the minute i give it back to her with in a while ill get a report it shutdown. unless im being trolled then WTF is happening.

i looked in system event logs with event viewer but didn't see any errors apart from a Kernel-Power critical error message and Event ID 6008

so i said try a new keyboard and mouse but thats a long shot in my eyes but still trying it. what do yous think

 

[Sybaris_Caesar]

Tell her to use the PC in a different room for a few days and check if issue persists.

 

[RodClutcher]

Tell her to use the PC in a different room for a few days and check if issue persists.

i run the extension cord from my room in the power plug i have been using to power my computers for the past 20 years. i thought that was easier then moving the desk screen ect. i thought about the different room thing i have my bases covered on that veritable but thanks still