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High temperatures and fan speeds for Rtx 2060

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I'm not into water cooling, too much fuss.
 
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Hi guys an update after I've mounted the Xtreme III.
I didn't mounted properly, I left the thermal pads on and didn't add the heatsinks from Arctic and also I've left a ton of thermal paste on the die. Also I only managed to screw 3 out of 4 screws on the back of the card. But it's better overall. I might take to an IT shop to get it properly mounted as I am concerned that those thermal pads don't make any contact with the heatsink and might overheat the Vram and the rest of the stuff.
These are the temperatures after an half an hour with Prime 95 Small and Furmark.
The thing is now the CPU cooler which used to stay around 900Rpm in this test now goes to 1400Rpm, in does seem that the gpu is dumping a lot of heat in the case
 

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Hi guys an update after I've mounted the Xtreme III.
I didn't mounted properly, I left the thermal pads on and didn't add the heatsinks from Arctic and also I've left a ton of thermal paste on the die. Also I only managed to screw 3 out of 4 screws on the back of the card. But it's better overall. I might take to an IT shop to get it properly mounted as I am concerned that those thermal pads don't make any contact with the heatsink and might overheat the Vram and the rest of the stuff.
These are the temperatures after an half an hour with Prime 95 Small and Furmark.
The thing is now the CPU cooler which used to stay around 900Rpm in this test now goes to 1400Rpm, in does seem that the gpu is dumping a lot of heat in the case
Congratulation with your new and improved GPU cooler solution. Plus 75 MHz, minus 22 degree C, same power, less rpm. You should have less noise as well.
The graphics card is not dumping more heat into the case.
You are right that somebody should make sure that the VRM are RAM chips are fitted with the heat sinks.
I can't explain the higher rpm on the CPU but it is not because of more heat being dumped in your case from the GPU.
 
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When running Prime95 as well as Furmark, CPU dumps a lot of extra heat in the case. Depending on games and other things you tried, Furmark puts out more heat as well. The comparison gives a good baseline though - about 25% slower fan speeds in addition to 75Mhz and -22C. Due to GPU Boost behaviour, that -22C is responsible for almost all of the 75MHz.
 
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When running Prime95 as well as Furmark, CPU dumps a lot of extra heat in the case. Depending on games and other things you tried, Furmark puts out more heat as well. The comparison gives a good baseline though - about 25% slower fan speeds in addition to 75Mhz and -22C. Due to GPU Boost behaviour, that -22C is responsible for almost all of the 75MHz.
I assumed that the extra rpm on the CPU was under similar conditions. The two GPU-Z screen dumps are both under similar conditions. Correct me @Amaregaz if I'm wrong.
Did you alter the fan curves in BIOS (CPU) / Afterburner (GPU)?

Edit: One reason for higher over-all temperature in the case (higher CPU fan rpm) could be that the original GB cooling was pushing more air backwards out of the mesh. I noticed that my MSIs in a test bench does have a nice warm air flow there.
 
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Those temperatures were obtained under the same testing conditions, Furmark+Prime95, I haven't changed any Fan curve on the Gpu or Cpu.
I was thinking the same thing mstenholm, the fact that the gpu is dumping air everywhere inside the case since the new cooler is not as sealed as the old one and I don't have the backplate anymore.
The only place it makes proper contact is with the die. It still bugs me as the old Gpu clearly was hotter but it didn't dumped so much hot air inside the case.
Also another thing is that when I start the test the clock is 2050Mhz, shouldn't it stay that way? I mean at 60C there's a lot of headroom, is this because of the bios of the card or the VRM and Vram are reaching temperatures that are too high? Too bad it doesn't have sensors on those things.
 

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Those temperatures were obtained under the same testing conditions, Furmark+Prime95, I haven't changed any Fan curve on the Gpu or Cpu.
I was thinking the same thing mstenholm, the fact that the gpu is dumping air everywhere inside the case since the new cooler is not as sealed as the old one and I don't have the backplate anymore.
The only place it makes proper contact is with the die. It still bugs me as the old Gpu clearly was hotter but it didn't dumped so much hot air inside the case.
Also another thing is that when I start the test the clock is 2050Mhz, shouldn't it stay that way? I mean at 60C there's a lot of headroom, is this because of the bios of the card or the VRM and Vram are reaching temperatures that are too high? Too bad it doesn't have sensors on those things.
In order to stay at 2050 MHz you need to stay below 45 C if that is your starting point, I assume it is. For every 10 degree C my GPU changes one step (15 MHz). I think that goes for all of this generation Nvidia GPUs.

I think that you need to upgrade your case airflow if your hobby is to run Furmark+Prime95.

I know that people say that you should make sure to maintain a positive air pressure (more air in then out) to avoid dust finding its way in via all the leaks in a case but in my opinion it hard to avoid dust unless you seal the case and have filters in front of the intake fans (yes I know there is a filter in you case). You case have the possibility to host three 140 mm fan in the top. I would install one 1000/1200 rpm to begin with. Either that or find some 1000 rpm 200 mm fans to replace the front. This is a more expensive solution.
 
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Installing fans on top is not an option for this case as that plastic shroud on top blocks any air for the fans to take or exhaust, so it's useless.
 
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Installing fans on top is not an option for this case as that plastic shroud on top blocks any air for the fans to take or exhaust, so it's useless.
OK, you have the case in hand, I just looked at the spec - Mastercase H500P
 
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The fact that they sealed the top is not a bad thing, if the top had a mesh like the front, the air that is pushed by the front fans would escape through the top instead of going straight towards the Cpu and Gpu

I'll give you another update as soon as I get that cooler properly mounted with the heatsinks on the memories, vrm and the rest of it.
 
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I just checked the Bios settings, my fan profile was set to default for some weird reason. I've changed the fans to go for 60% (all of the case fans including Cpu) when Cpu reaches 70C, after half an hour of Prime95(max heat test)+Furmark it reached 70C with 800Rpm and Gpu 60C (1400RPM).
The default fan curve for the case fans and cpu was way to aggressive, 30% case fans on Idle and when the Cpu reached 60C they went up to 75%.
 
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I just checked the Bios settings, my fan profile was set to default for some weird reason. I've changed the fans to go for 60% (all of the case fans including Cpu) when Cpu reaches 70C, after half an hour of Prime95(max heat test)+Furmark it reached 70C with 800Rpm and Gpu 60C (1400RPM).
The default fan curve for the case fans and cpu was way to aggressive, 30% case fans on Idle and when the Cpu reached 60C they went up to 75%.
So you have plenty of rpms left in the tank, good.

If you are happy then please give your GPU a rest and stop running Furmark. :)
 
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I'm just testing Furmark+Prime to see the worst case scenario, I'm not doing this on a daily basis, usually when I buy a new card or change the cooler of the Cpu, I run this test.
 
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Those temperatures were obtained under the same testing conditions, Furmark+Prime95, I haven't changed any Fan curve on the Gpu or Cpu.
I was thinking the same thing mstenholm, the fact that the gpu is dumping air everywhere inside the case since the new cooler is not as sealed as the old one and I don't have the backplate anymore.
The only place it makes proper contact is with the die. It still bugs me as the old Gpu clearly was hotter but it didn't dumped so much hot air inside the case.
Also another thing is that when I start the test the clock is 2050Mhz, shouldn't it stay that way? I mean at 60C there's a lot of headroom, is this because of the bios of the card or the VRM and Vram are reaching temperatures that are too high? Too bad it doesn't have sensors on those things.
those thermal pads are just dangling there, did you not get any small heatsinks with that cooler?
 
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I hope you are ready for a bent graphics card, with that amount of weight hanging off it.
 
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Given you solved ya problem ... will leave some notes for "next time"

1. Before spending money, the best thing to do is take off your side panel and get a reasonably powerful desk fan and blow it inside ... if you temps drop to < 82, your case cooling is an issue.

2. If you don't have the following, your case cooling is the likely issue:

a) (1) 140mm fan for each 75 - 100 watts of componentry
b) (1) 120mm fan for each 50 - 75 watts for componentry
c) 1.3 to 1.5 times as many intake fans as exhaust fans

I often see instances where an excess of exhaust fans sucks all the hot air from the PSU and GPU right back into the case.

3. While I would not use Furmark for stability testing, it well served it's purpose for determining suitability testing. On recommendation from nVidia themselves, we use it to test every custom desktop and laptop build. Whether it is realistic is not the point, the value is in it's consistency. When you run it at speeds out of the box, it will give you a basis of comparision otherwise unavailable to do that consistence. It can also be done quickly as the curve levels out fast. Running variable loadings diminishes data reliability. Will you ever see these temps again at stock speeds when gaming. Very unlikey as gaming loads are highly variable.... . tho you will see them when you OC the card. You will also see them running certain programs.

4. Take a gander at the test results here on TPU which provide loads on info .... before ya buy. While I will also check other sites (Guru3D for one which provides their OC settings giving you a nice place to start). I figure if they are not submitting ac ard for review, they don't have much to crow about ... or there's something they's rather keep quiet. On the results ....

a) For me, the think I focus most on is OC performance. With regard to the previous posts regarding "Why MSI". it must be said that MSI has shoined more than the others with TPU testing in recent years. Among the cards tested, the MSI entry finished 1st on OCd fps for the 2080 Ti, 2080 and 2nd for the 2070.

b) Temperature wise, more isn't necessarily better. There's no real advantage at 66C as opposed to 76C, expecially if getting there comes from ramping up fan speeds and noise. lets look for example at the 2070 ... Zotac to the fps crown at 145.4 fps OCd to MSIs 144.5, nit a big win but it's a win. But to get it.... the Zotac noise levels are 28 @ idle and 36 under load w/ OC; the MSO is 0 @ idle and 30 under load + OC .... for a differenc eoif 28C at idle 6 at OC, I like the MSI even tho MSIs temp @ OC is 70 to Zotac's 69.
 

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Hi guys an update after I've mounted the Xtreme III.
I didn't mounted properly, I left the thermal pads on and didn't add the heatsinks from Arctic and also I've left a ton of thermal paste on the die. Also I only managed to screw 3 out of 4 screws on the back of the card. But it's better overall. I might take to an IT shop to get it properly mounted as I am concerned that those thermal pads don't make any contact with the heatsink and might overheat the Vram and the rest of the stuff.
These are the temperatures after an half an hour with Prime 95 Small and Furmark.
The thing is now the CPU cooler which used to stay around 900Rpm in this test now goes to 1400Rpm, in does seem that the gpu is dumping a lot of heat in the case
Sorry for replying on an old post but for a while I've been trying to find an alternate way to cool my gigabyte rtx 2060 oc, same as yours and found this post. I was hoping to find out exactly how you were able to attach the arctic accelero iii, very interested in lowering temps and noise as the current temps and high and loud fans. Any help or point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
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Congratulation with your new and improved GPU cooler solution. Plus 75 MHz, minus 22 degree C, same power, less rpm. You should have less noise as well.
The graphics card is not dumping more heat into the case.
You are right that somebody should make sure that the VRM are RAM chips are fitted with the heat sinks.
I can't explain the higher rpm on the CPU but it is not because of more heat being dumped in your case from the GPU.
The card is no longer temp throttling and will definitely boost under its maximum voltage now, whereas it didn't before, so it will put more heat in the case.

In addition, there is probably a somewhat higher load on the CPU since there is more GPU OC.

All things considered, @Amaregaz you might want to look at your case airflow. Get any obstructions and junk out of the way (cabling etc) and maybe tweak the case fan RPMs a bit. There is a chance you have heat built up inside the case now. The Accelero is also a larger cooler that may obstruct airflow a bit more and pushes more GPU heat upward.

You can use your CPU cooler's RPM values to test this. If it goes down from 1400 when you reach temp equilibrium in the case, you've improved things.

a) regarding "Why MSI".
Oh yes. Consistent quality, and no 'duds' like this Gigabyte POS, but also consistently decent binning in their product stack. A Gaming X will for example always be a good bin. I've never had a weak clocker from MSI, yet. Fan quality is also good, no weird idle fan issues reported, the cooler is extremely well balanced out wrt silence vs performance, there's just nothing to complain about really.

Sorry for replying on an old post but for a while I've been trying to find an alternate way to cool my gigabyte rtx 2060 oc, same as yours and found this post. I was hoping to find out exactly how you were able to attach the arctic accelero iii, very interested in lowering temps and noise as the current temps and high and loud fans. Any help or point in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
You buy it, you remove the old cooler carefully, clean up the die and old pads, and apply the new one.

Its not that scary, and Youtube probably is full of guides too. Application of thermal paste is usually the harder part, because GPU paste tends to work a bit differently, its not easily 'too much' like it can be on a CPU.

EDIT: just noticed this is a lil necro. Oh well ;)
 
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The card is no longer temp throttling and will definitely boost under its maximum voltage now, whereas it didn't before, so it will put more heat in the case.

In addition, there is probably a somewhat higher load on the CPU since there is more GPU OC.

All things considered, @Amaregaz you might want to look at your case airflow. Get any obstructions and junk out of the way (cabling etc) and maybe tweak the case fan RPMs a bit. There is a chance you have heat built up inside the case now. The Accelero is also a larger cooler that may obstruct airflow a bit more and pushes more GPU heat upward.

You can use your CPU cooler's RPM values to test this. If it goes down from 1400 when you reach temp equilibrium in the case, you've improved things.



Oh yes. Consistent quality, and no 'duds' like this Gigabyte POS, but also consistently decent binning in their product stack. A Gaming X will for example always be a good bin. I've never had a weak clocker from MSI, yet. Fan quality is also good, no weird idle fan issues reported, the cooler is extremely well balanced out wrt silence vs performance, there's just nothing to complain about really.



You buy it, you remove the old cooler carefully, clean up the die and old pads, and apply the new one.

Its not that scary, and Youtube probably is full of guides too. Application of thermal paste is usually the harder part, because GPU paste tends to work a bit differently, its not easily 'too much' like it can be on a CPU.

EDIT: just noticed this is a lil necro. Oh well ;)
Just that apparently it didn't fit, and he said so himself and that he got professional help after not being able to do it himself. Want to be 100% sure it will work and that I'll be fine doing it myself, having never taken apart a graphic card.
 
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I have RTX 2060 Gigabyte OC and i had reached 85C. Then, i undervolt GPU (937MV/+130MHZ) and change fan speed (when it reaches 70C, it achives %95 fan speed). Now, it is not passing 75C.
 
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Just that apparently it didn't fit, and he said so himself and that he got professional help after not being able to do it himself. Want to be 100% sure it will work and that I'll be fine doing it myself, having never taken apart a graphic card.
Yeah I read the missing bits now, didn't catch that except for the 3 screws fitted and pads missing + Might take to IT shop. Not sure that ever happened? Either way it shows that even if you ghetto rig this cooler to a die it'll do fine :)

Personally I'd refrain from such solutions because
A. warranty = void
B. card is not top end, cooling solution isn't free, the net cost might have been spent better on a faster/better card.
C. the gain is mediocre or small in practice, because Nvidia's boost is pretty decent at maxing perf.

Much better off just selling the card off and get a properly cooled one with warranty intact. Also for resale. Ghetto modded cards don't sell very well unless its a tip top mod. But if you're yearning for adventure, its a nice little project :)

100% certainty is never there when you start modding hardware, user error can never be accounted for. So if you're scared, don't.
 

LaggyAU

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I have RTX 2060 Gigabyte OC and i had reached 85C. Then, i undervolt GPU (937MV/+130MHZ) and change fan speed (when it reaches 70C, it achives %95 fan speed). Now, it is not passing 75C.
Could you send me an image of your msi afterburner voltage chart? Im interested to try it out for myself with the same undervolt.

Yeah I read the missing bits now, didn't catch that except for the 3 screws fitted and pads missing + Might take to IT shop. Not sure that ever happened? Either way it shows that even if you ghetto rig this cooler to a die it'll do fine :)

Personally I'd refrain from such solutions because
A. warranty = void
B. card is not top end, cooling solution isn't free, the net cost might have been spent better on a faster/better card.
C. the gain is mediocre or small in practice, because Nvidia's boost is pretty decent at maxing perf.

Much better off just selling the card off and get a properly cooled one with warranty intact. Also for resale. Ghetto modded cards don't sell very well unless its a tip top mod. But if you're yearning for adventure, its a nice little project :)

100% certainty is never there when you start modding hardware, user error can never be accounted for. So if you're scared, don't.
Cant/ dont want to sell and get another, voiding the warranty does suck, but could be worth much better temps imo. Also the gain is typically quite large, much lower temps, better overclocking or even just making the card last longer/peace of mind with temps.
 
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One review for the accelero 3 says it cracked their gpu die in half...

I put an accelero 2 on a gtx 760 and it is a great cooler but not easy to install at all, you're best off getting a professional to do it. Also it's big and sits high on some gpu's, make sure your case has lots of room.
 
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