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High temperatures on my 8700k

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Now i want to explain something, that my CPU runs a bit cooler it doesn't have anything to do with the Waterchiller, i will explain you why.

That i have a Waterchiller doesn't means that every time i turn on my Rig I turn on the Waterchiller too, i have turned on the Waterchiller maybe 15 times since i bought it ( 3 years ago ) when the Waterchiller is off it's function is just be a big reservoir and when i turned on it starts automatically in idle mode, the Waterchiller won't never start to work or cool down the water if i don't set it to do it.

Case #1 Waterchiller off

It's not working at all

View attachment 100695

Case #2

Waterchiller on but it starts automatically in idle mode and it's not Working or cooling the water, the only thing that is doing is reading the water temp

View attachment 100696

If i had set it to work when running those test the temps would be way lower.


I am going to disagree with you , but it doesn't matter what I think , as long as you're happy with it ,that's all that matters. To be clear, when I say I disagree, I am referring to the fact that your extravagant set up doesn't affect temperatures even went the chiller is off, i feel it may & short of using the same cooler, its gonna be a mystery , but that's just my personal opinion . Im By FAR no expert on those things. And I don't really have much interest in them either, so I don't wanna argue it ,but its a cool system :toast:
 
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newtekie1

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Now i want to explain something, that my CPU runs a bit cooler it doesn't have anything to do with the Waterchiller, i will explain you why.

That i have a Waterchiller doesn't means that every time i turn on my Rig I turn on the Waterchiller too, i have turned on the Waterchiller maybe 15 times since i bought it ( 3 years ago ) when the Waterchiller is off it's function is just be a big reservoir and when i turned on it starts automatically in idle mode, the Waterchiller won't never start to work or cool down the water if i don't set it to do it.

How much water does it hold? Having a large reservoir might be helping more than you think.

I'm also guessing you have more radiator than I do, and more fans to go on those radiators, and don't restrict your fans to a max of 50% to keep them silent(well, maybe you do with the fans).
 

FireFox

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How much water does it hold? Having a large reservoir might be helping more than you think.

Exactly, that is what i was going to explain to @jboydgolfer in my next post.

The Waterchiller has a 4L Tank and the Reservoir+pump holds 2L that's around 7L of water in the whole loop.

I'm also guessing you have more radiator than I do, and more fans to go on those radiators, and don't restrict your fans to a max of 50% to keep them silent(well, maybe you do with the fans).

I am referring to the fact that your extravagant set up doesn't affect temperatures even went the chiller is off,

That's the funny part.

For 99.99% of the users Waterchiller= no Rads and Fans needed but because I knew that I wasn't going to use the Chiller all the time i added a Radiator and that's the reason why temperatures are not affected when the Chiller is off.
20180210_003146.jpg
 

newtekie1

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Exactly, that is what i was going to explain to @jboydgolfer in my next post.

The Waterchiller has a 4L Tank and the Reservoir+pump holds 2L that's around 7L of water in the whole loop.

Yeah, that is a lot of water to heat up, and I'd be surprised if it took a good couple hours to even get it a couple degrees hotter. But that is one of the benefits I'm sure you are aware of.

On the other hand, the CLC I have likely has 1L or less fluid in it, and it heats up quicker than even an custom loop. If I let a high load run on the computer, the temps will slowly got up over the first half hour, sometime up to an hour, while the fluid gets warmer and warmer. The radiator also gets warmer and warmer. Eventually everything kind of equalizes.

With that much water in your loop, the fluid should sit near ambient for a long long time, even under full load.

That's the funny part.

For 99.99% of the users Waterchiller= no Rads and Fans needed but because I knew that I wasn't going to use the Chiller all the time i added a Radiator and that's the reason why temperatures are not affected when the Chiller is off.

Well, technically it still has a fan and radiator, just not directly connected to the fluid running through the loop. <-- Read this in a smartass tone, because I'm not trying to argue with you or even tell you anything you don't already know, I'm just being a smartass and giving you crap. :laugh:
 

Space Lynx

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I think all of that is extremely unnecessary. As I said I never break 60 celsius in demanding games at 5.1ghz on an 8700k, on air... makes life easy.
 
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I think the same but its still fun of course. Heck I run my 8700K at 80C and I'm a happy camper, even still got my warranty intact at that :rolleyes:
 

FireFox

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I think all of that is extremely unnecessary.

You are right but when you have enough money to waste you think different and for me it is more for fun/Hobby than a need
 
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You need to just get a new cooler. I apologize if I missed this in an earlier post, but did you try to RMA cooler with Corsair?

Right now I am running my i7 8700k at an even 5GHz and have been for about two weeks. I have an H115i which is I admit a much better cooler, but right now I'm idling in the 20's C, and hit mid to high 50's C while gaming. Voltage is set to 1.32v.

I also cleaned off that stock Corsair TIM and used MX-4.

But I would never try and use a gimped cooler on a processor that runs a tad warm already.
 
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The stock corsair thermal paste is silk screened Shin Etsu X23, you should have kept it.
 

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You need to just get a new cooler. I apologize if I missed this in an earlier post, but did you try to RMA cooler with Corsair?

Right now I am running my i7 8700k at an even 5GHz and have been for about two weeks. I have an H115i which is I admit a much better cooler, but right now I'm idling in the 20's C, and hit mid to high 50's C while gaming. Voltage is set to 1.32v.

I also cleaned off that stock Corsair TIM and used MX-4.

But I would never try and use a gimped cooler on a processor that runs a tad warm already.

I find it hard to believe you are stable at 5ghz at 1.320v, you should run Cinebench and a few other things. not saying you have to do prime95 or nothing, but yeah...
 

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Why that?

That is one hell of a chip if you have it at 5+ghz @ 1.32. Have you run any benches? Do you have a cpuz ss?
 

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Keep on topic. Hint, this thread isn't about you.
 
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That's the waterchiller I've always wanted to buy I think they're rad. Can dial the temperature down to 15c or more on the water.
 

Oscargimenez

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Hey guys!
I asked for replacement parts to Corsair, but as I am a dumbass I ordered parts for the H80 which is a bit different, anyway I switched to Kraken and I don t regret at all. It is way smooth
Regarding OC I managed to reach 5ghz for a while (a couple of days) . But then it started to be unstable, then I lowered to 4.9 and same. So I decided to go for 4.7 (just auto OC) and at least is stable.I followed the Gigabyte guide for motherboards (btw mine is Ultra Gaming v.2.0) I m guessing is not a good Mb for high frequencies even it has same options in BIOS than Gaming 7and more VRMs than previous version, or maybe my Cpu is worst chip ever xD

At least now it looks better xD

I am using really demanding apps and stability is a must. BTw whhen you test Cpu using games it s like.....a joke....ok.....no offense

Cheers!
 
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Hey guys!
I asked for replacement parts to Corsair, but as I am a dumbass I ordered parts for the H80 which is a bit different, anyway I switched to Kraken and I don t regret at all. It is way smooth
Regarding OC I managed to reach 5ghz for a while (a couple of days) . But then it started to be unstable, then I lowered to 4.9 and same. So I decided to go for 4.7 (just auto OC) and at least is stable.I followed the Gigabyte guide for motherboards (btw mine is Ultra Gaming v.2.0) I m guessing is not a good Mb for high frequencies even it has same options in BIOS than Gaming 7and more VRMs than previous version, or maybe my Cpu is worst chip ever xD

At least now it looks better xD

I am using really demanding apps and stability is a must. BTw whhen you test Cpu using games it s like.....a joke....ok.....no offense

Cheers!

You are aware that overclocking is more than just dialing in a frequency and praying for auto-settings to do the rest, yes? :)

Either way good to hear temps are under control.
 

Oscargimenez

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First I tried everything manually following several guides and tuts, then I went auto as probably you had not read.
Don't think it's quantum physics, anyway
 
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First I tried everything manually following several guides and tuts, then I went auto as probably you had not read.
Don't think it's quantum physics, anyway

I did read everything, you started with 5 Ghz and had to drop down to 4.7 but you never specified what voltages you used nor what voltages you are seeing now.

You did however manage to buy a 150 dollar Kraken to improve temps. Call me weird but that's a rather expensive auto OC then. I cool my 8700K on air... And when you run 4.7 all core boost that's barely an OC to be fair - most 8700Ks can do that with less than 1.28v (which you can cool with a 30 dollar air tower)

And you're right, quantum physics has nothing to do with it :p Overclocking is about finding a balance, and using auto OC is not balance, its just tossing a shitload of volts against a frequency problem. We have topics on this forum that get in depth on overclocking this CPU. Just a hint ;)
 
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Oscargimenez

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You are right
These are the specs
CPU Base Clock 100hz
CPU Clock Ratio 50x
Uncore Ratio 40x

Optional VCCIO 1.4-1.45V

Disable:

Intel Speed Shift
CPU C1E
C3 State
C6/C7 State
C8 State
C10 State
Ring to Core Offset
CPU EIST
Race to Halt
Energy Turbo
Voltage Optimize
VT-d

Set memory settings to XMP

CPU VCore Loadline Calibration - set to Turbo
CPU VCore: I went as high as 1.39
 
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See if you can run your 4.7 all core OC with the following and add 0.01v to vCore if it crashes. If no crash, you can either lower the vCore by 0.01, or you can chase a higher clock instead.

CPU vcore: 1.32v - you can do this in two ways: through an offset (on my Asrock board this gives much better results) or by fixed voltage. Offset is nice because the offset applies across the whole frequency range, it reduces temps especially in idle.
VCCIO: 1.05v
VCCSA: 1.1v
LLC: lowest or second lowest you can use

Rest on auto. XMP preset for whatever your RAM is rated as. Keep all speed step/C states enabled. HT on. Just run the CPU as it should.
With these settings, run OCCT CPU test, open HWINFO and look at your vCore under load. If it drops to 1.28v or lower, you will probably want to use a stronger LLC (load line calibration) setting.

Some background on LLC: when you apply load to a CPU, especially all core loads, the vcore drops (vDroop) and it can drop under its stable voltage. This is why you want to monitor your load vCore when stress testing in OCCT - if the drop is to like 1.23v you can be sure it crashes due to low vcore, its also a good way to get a handle on what voltage you need to be stable. This also tells you what fixed/offset voltage you need to use. For example, you could need 1.35v in BIOS to hit 1.31v under load. A stronger LLC reduces that drop, and it might result in 1.35v in BIOS = 1.34v under load. But, higher LLC also introduces some more heat. Again: balancing trick :)

That VCCIO of 1.4v is ridiculous though, get rid of immediately. 1.2v is already high and that is stock... I can run my 3200/C16 16GB RAM on VCCIO and VCCSA of 1.00v/1.05v... no problems, but it reduces temperatures by a lot.

Worth giving a shot, perhaps from there you can even attempt to get higher clocks as well. These settings are a good middle ground starting point anyway.
 
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Oscargimenez

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Thanks and I forgot to mention I tried AVX offset to AUTO and also 2 and 3. It helped to mantain temperatures and stability under certain apps.
 
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Thanks and I forgot to mention I tried AVX offset to AUTO and also 2 and 3. It helped to mantain temperatures and stability under certain apps.

My advice: AVX Offset = off. Its stupid to let the CPU clock down under AVX loads, what the hell do you OC for then in the first place. A stable CPU can handle AVX just as well as anything, and with sufficient cooling there is no reason to differentiate.

The only reason would be if you cannot get 4.7 stable but hit a temperature wall.. but even then, its better to find a lower vcore and lower the clock entirely.

What AVX offset does is lower your multiplier by the number you set with any AVX load. But AVX is getting used quite a lot these days ánd the detection of it is problematic. The end result of an AVX offset is that effectively you just run your CPU at a lower multi.
 

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I am using really demanding apps and stability is a must. BTw whhen you test Cpu using games it s like.....a joke....ok.....no offense
I've had some overclocks not handle games, yet handle more "extreme" tests. I'm sure other members here will agree that it is possible to have a test/benchmark pass yet still crash in games. It's not really a joke.
 
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I've had some overclocks not handle games, yet handle more "extreme" tests. I'm sure other members here will agree that it is possible to have a test/benchmark pass yet still crash in games. It's not really a joke.

Yeah. Stability is a fickle beast... What I do these days is run a 5 minute, 12 thread OCCT and if it turns up no errors, I just run with it. Hasn't let me down thus far... still stable :)
 
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