• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.

How to hook a car amp up to your PC

Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Messages
1,742 (0.57/day)
Likes
454
System Name Eldritch
Processor AMD Ryzen 5 1500X
Motherboard MSI B350 PC Mate
Cooling Satan's butthole after going to Taco Bell
Memory 16 GB G.Skill FlareX
Video Card(s) Gigabyte GT 1060 6GB
Storage 4*4TB Western Digital Blues in RAID 5, 512 GB Samsung 960 Pro
Display(s) Acer CB281HK
Audio Device(s) ASUS Xonar DX
Software Debian Buster
#1
Do you have a car amp laying around? Are your gaming experiences too.... quiet? Do you have crappy-ass Durabrand PC speakers that snap, crackle, AND pop? Do you get the itch to wake up your neighbors?

If you answered yes to any 2 of these questions, this guide may be for you!

Ok, enough of the cheesy advertising. I've had this one done for a while, so I can guarantee if you do it right (and every part works), that it should all be fine and dandy.

Things you'll need:

1 x Car Amp
2 x Box Speakers
1 x Minijack-to-RCA cable
Some x Various other wires and cables
Various x Tools
A x PC

Knowledge You'll need:
A 200 watt car amp DOES NOT pull 200 watts (that would mean my entire PC is running off 50 watts) - I'm not sure what it does pull though, so don't ask.

A car battery gives 12 volts, so does your PSU.

If your doing this with an independent PSU (AKA, not the one in your PC), you'll need to connect wires 15 & 16 (green and the black right next to it) to get your PSU to turn on. I'd also recommend getting one with a rocker switch in the back, so you don't have to rig one in between 15 & 16.

If your amp uses more than around 500 watts you'll want to use multiple molex connectors, because a single 14-gauge wire might not be able to hold all the charge needed for the entire amp, causing it to heat up and possibly melt. There is a method to the madness; if you unplug all your drives and your video card, you should be able trace all the wires back to 2 or 3 bunches (unless you have a modular PSU, in which I'm not sure how this would work), you'll want to connect the amp to as many bunches as you can. This way you're effectively dividing the charge on each wire (and sometimes making it easier on your PSU), if it works correctly. If you do two (or more) connectors on a particular bunch, your not gaining much because the charge will still have to go through the single wires that come out of the PSU, which is what you're trying to avoid in the first place.

Step 1: Prep your PC
Turn down the volume on the taskbar, and I mean DOWN to like 2-10%. Remove your side panel (unless your using an independent PSU)

Step 2: Wiring up The Amp
Connect the red wire (Positive) to the orange wire (Remote). Make sure that there's just bare wire at the end of all of the wires coming from your amp.

Grab a Molex connector, you want the male end. Cut the Yellow (+12v DC) and the Black (-12v DC) right next to it, you'll want them as long as you can get (you can also remove the red and black if you want, but when I did it the Yellow and Black got a little shaky/loose).

Connect the Molex's Yellow to The Amp's Red & Orange, connect the Molex's Black to the Amp's Black. Twist, tie, tape.

Step 3: Connecting the Amp and Speakers
You want box speakers (the ones that just have the - and + wires hanging out the back), if you don't have any you could try Goodwill (you can usually get them for like $20 over there). Connect them to The Amp. I'm not sure whether the - on the speakers really needs to be connected to the - on The Amp, but do it just to be safe (my speakers just have 2 nondescript wires, and they work fine). You may need to make them longer too.

Step 4: Connecting it to your PC
Plug the male Molex into your PSU, grab the minijack-to-RCA and plug the minijack into your sound card with the RCA connected to The Amp. If you have an amp that has more than 2 channels, you may need to move the speakers and RCA cables around to get the right ones.

Step 5: Fine tuning
Make sure all the wires are insulated good. Check them again. The last thing you want is your house up in flames, so check them once more.

If your using an independent PSU, make sure it's plugged in.

Turn on your PC. Adjust volume as needed (I did this with a 200 watt amp, and mines at 4% volume).

Step 6: Make sure it's all up to par
Play a game, more specifically, a really power-hungry one *cough* Bioshock 2 *cough*. Make sure your PSU is fine and running good.

Other remarks:
You could also hook up a car radio to your PC if you'd like, but I haven't done it yet so I don't have a guide.

If your case is a tank (really heavy-like) you could rig up The Amp to your right-side panel, but mine's a lightweight, so again, no guide.

If your using an independant PSU, you might want to remove unnecessary wires. I cannot recommend this as your PSU could deep-fry your pasty-white nerdy ass any day of the week. PSU vs. You = Dead You (and possibly cops). I have done this though (rigging it up for a friend ;)), so I won't say it's impossible.

YOU MAY NEED TO ADJUST YOUR BASE. It'll probably be overwhelming. Try adjusting the gain on The Amp first, then adjust the equalizer in your drivers/programs next.

IF YOUR AMP NEEDS A CAPACITOR don't ask me, I don't know what to do with it or how to rig it or charge it or do anything with it. Mine doesn't need one, so no guide.
 
Last edited:

MKmods

Case Mod Guru
Joined
Feb 26, 2008
Messages
5,697 (1.50/day)
Likes
1,735
Location
Nevada
System Name Crossflow III
Processor AMD 965 (4.04Ghz)
Motherboard Asus Crosshair III
Cooling Air
Memory 4 gigs Mushkin 7-7-7-20@1T
Video Card(s) single 9800GT
Storage Raptor 150's in Raid0
Display(s) LG Flatron 24"
Case Custom
Audio Device(s) AuzenTech X-Raider W/OP637
Power Supply Custom modded Corsair 750HX
Software Win 7 64/Solaris Utility
Benchmark Scores 3DMark06--21963 so far
#2
this would be a fun mod to do, making a case with a quality amp , head unit, separates with sub. (maybe even throw in a headphone amp)

Be careful when using a car amp and a comp PS, very few comp PSs are able to supply as much current as a good amp needs. So make sure to do your homework (my car amp can use up to 100A) So its important to know how many amps your stereo amp pulls (dont pay as much attention to the amount of advertised watts as on most car stereo amps thats misleading)

and most likely you will need to run several yellow wires(grounds too) off your PS together to supply the current.
 
Last edited:
Joined
May 1, 2009
Messages
252 (0.07/day)
Likes
65
Location
USA
System Name gamer/htpc (light gamer)
Processor i7870/i3530
Motherboard EVGA LE/Gigabyte hn55-usb3
Cooling stock/stock- for now
Memory 4g gskill/4G gskill
Video Card(s) Gigabyte 570/Gigabyte 560
Storage 7200 hard drives
Case Full ATX tower/SugoB mitx
Audio Device(s) intagrated/intragrated
Power Supply 750W silverstone/300W mini ITX
#3
that is awsome!!

but like MK said.. BE CAREFUL or you will burn something up.
My amp pulls LOTS of power
 

theonedub

habe fidem
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
7,943 (2.36/day)
Likes
5,173
Location
Northern CA, USA
System Name Erakith || Asus UX305FA
Processor Xeon E5 2683v3 (14C/28T) @ 2.5ghz 0.829v || Intel Core M 5Y10 @ 800mhz
Motherboard ASUS X99 Deluxe || ASUS OE
Cooling EK Supremacy, D5 w/ EK Top, 2X EK-CoolStream XTX 360 & Photon 270 Res || !PASSIVE!
Memory 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 3000|| 8GB LPDDR3 1600
Video Card(s) EVGA 780Ti Classified HydroCopper || Intel HD Graphics 5300
Storage 256gb Corsair Performance Pro, 2TB Caviar Green, 2TB Samsung F4 || Toshiba 256GB SSD
Display(s) DELL Ultrasharp U2715H 27" || 13.3" 1080P IPS
Case CaseLabs Merlin SM8 || Aluminum Unibody
Power Supply NZXT Hale-90-1000-M
Mouse Logitech M705 Marathon
Keyboard Corsair Strafe RGB w/ Cherry MX Silent
Software Windows 10 Pro x64 || WIndows 10 Home x64
Benchmark Scores WCG & F@H Only
#5
You need thicker gauge wire to prevent burning or melting, the min I run even for a 200 watt amp is 8ga from the battery to the amp. This really has bad idea written all over it in terms of safety.
 

cdawall

where the hell are my stars
Joined
Jul 23, 2006
Messages
27,212 (6.21/day)
Likes
8,072
Location
Houston
System Name Team Blue
Processor 5960X@4.8 1.42v
Motherboard Asus X99M-WS
Cooling EK Supremecy EVO, MCR220-Stack+MCR220+MCR320, D5-PWM+EK X-RES 140
Memory 4x8GB G.Skill Trident Z 3200 CL16
Video Card(s) (2) EVGA SC BLACK 1080Ti's+ EVGA reference 1080Ti soon to be under water+AMD VEGA FE
Storage Samsung SM951 512GB, Samsung PM961 512GB
Display(s) Dell UP2414Q 3840X2160@60hz
Case Caselabs Mercury S5
Audio Device(s) Fischer HA-02->Fischer FA-002W High edition/FA-003/Jubilate/FA-011 depending on my mood
Power Supply Seasonic Prime 1200w
Mouse Thermaltake Theron
Keyboard Thermaltake Poseidon ZX
Software W10P
Benchmark Scores Zoom zoom mofo
#6
this will only work with low watt amps my car amps will smoke any current PSU...
 
Joined
Mar 11, 2009
Messages
1,259 (0.37/day)
Likes
758
Location
Little Rock, AR
System Name Gamer/Server
Processor Intel Core i5 4690/AMD FX 8370
Memory 16/16GB
Video Card(s) EVGA Geforce GTX 980ti FTW/None
Case Fractal Designs/Dell
Power Supply 800w CM/450w Raidmax
Software Windows 10 Pro
#7
I thought this was going to be a thread asking how to hook up a car amp to household speakers. A big no-no of course. I was pleasently surprised to see a nicely put together guide for something that is useful and actually works the way it is meant to, and by someone who's done his homework no less. Something that could be mentioned is gauge of wires needed. Too thin wires could be bad for business. Other than that, Kudos!

D'oh dub beat me to it. And as CDawall says, only very low wattage amps. 2000w kickers will NOT work for this lol.
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2006
Messages
399 (0.09/day)
Likes
23
System Name Custom AMD FX
Processor AMD FX 8320 @ 4.62GHz (225MHz Bus Speed)
Motherboard Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P (1.0)
Cooling Corsair Seidon 240V in Push Pull
Memory 16 GB DDR3 (4x4GB)
Video Card(s) Sapphire NITRO+ Radeon RX 470 8GB
Storage 120GB ADATA SP550 + 1TB WD Black
Display(s) AOC I2369VM 23" 1920x1080
Case Phanteks Eclipse P400s Black & Red
Audio Device(s) Creative E-MU 0202 USB
Power Supply Corsair CX600M
Mouse Logitech G700
Keyboard Perixx PX-1000
Software Windows 10 Pro N x64
#8
I would NOT recommend using the PSU to power BOTH the amp and pc. You could take the whole lot with it! A separate PSU with a large current rating on the 12V rail.

I have a home made sub-woofer using a car amp to power it with my hifi speakers. I measured the current that my amp drew at the volume I would be listening at and checked the PSU could deliver. I should ideally change the fuse on the amp to the rating of the 12v rail or less but haven't got round to it.
And as others have mentioned fatter wire is needed to ensure no wires burn up! I removed all the un-used cables from the PSU and combined all +12v and GND to build up the thickness to take the current.

On a side note I personally don't like the sound of car speakers. I have always and will prefer proper HiFi equipment, I am only using a car amp for the sub as it has the functions I need and was dirt cheap. :)

I may have pics for guidance somewhere.
 

cdawall

where the hell are my stars
Joined
Jul 23, 2006
Messages
27,212 (6.21/day)
Likes
8,072
Location
Houston
System Name Team Blue
Processor 5960X@4.8 1.42v
Motherboard Asus X99M-WS
Cooling EK Supremecy EVO, MCR220-Stack+MCR220+MCR320, D5-PWM+EK X-RES 140
Memory 4x8GB G.Skill Trident Z 3200 CL16
Video Card(s) (2) EVGA SC BLACK 1080Ti's+ EVGA reference 1080Ti soon to be under water+AMD VEGA FE
Storage Samsung SM951 512GB, Samsung PM961 512GB
Display(s) Dell UP2414Q 3840X2160@60hz
Case Caselabs Mercury S5
Audio Device(s) Fischer HA-02->Fischer FA-002W High edition/FA-003/Jubilate/FA-011 depending on my mood
Power Supply Seasonic Prime 1200w
Mouse Thermaltake Theron
Keyboard Thermaltake Poseidon ZX
Software W10P
Benchmark Scores Zoom zoom mofo
#9
I thought this was going to be a thread asking how to hook up a car amp to household speakers. A big no-no of course. I was pleasently surprised to see a nicely put together guide for something that is useful and actually works the way it is meant to, and by someone who's done his homework no less. Something that could be mentioned is gauge of wires needed. Too thin wires could be bad for business. Other than that, Kudos!

D'oh dub beat me to it. And as CDawall says, only very low wattage amps. 2000w kickers will NOT work for this lol.
my pair of 600w rockford fosgate class A/B's wont do it either...
 

theonedub

habe fidem
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
7,943 (2.36/day)
Likes
5,173
Location
Northern CA, USA
System Name Erakith || Asus UX305FA
Processor Xeon E5 2683v3 (14C/28T) @ 2.5ghz 0.829v || Intel Core M 5Y10 @ 800mhz
Motherboard ASUS X99 Deluxe || ASUS OE
Cooling EK Supremacy, D5 w/ EK Top, 2X EK-CoolStream XTX 360 & Photon 270 Res || !PASSIVE!
Memory 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 3000|| 8GB LPDDR3 1600
Video Card(s) EVGA 780Ti Classified HydroCopper || Intel HD Graphics 5300
Storage 256gb Corsair Performance Pro, 2TB Caviar Green, 2TB Samsung F4 || Toshiba 256GB SSD
Display(s) DELL Ultrasharp U2715H 27" || 13.3" 1080P IPS
Case CaseLabs Merlin SM8 || Aluminum Unibody
Power Supply NZXT Hale-90-1000-M
Mouse Logitech M705 Marathon
Keyboard Corsair Strafe RGB w/ Cherry MX Silent
Software Windows 10 Pro x64 || WIndows 10 Home x64
Benchmark Scores WCG & F@H Only
#10
Selway89 has a much more sound attack plan. The way the OP explains it he has one 14ga (if that) wire supplying power to the amp- bad idea.

My A/B Fosgate is strong but is the poster child of inefficiency, if I pushed my stereo often in my car it would be replaced my a class D in a heartbeat (powers my Premier sub only) /OT
 
Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Messages
1,742 (0.57/day)
Likes
454
System Name Eldritch
Processor AMD Ryzen 5 1500X
Motherboard MSI B350 PC Mate
Cooling Satan's butthole after going to Taco Bell
Memory 16 GB G.Skill FlareX
Video Card(s) Gigabyte GT 1060 6GB
Storage 4*4TB Western Digital Blues in RAID 5, 512 GB Samsung 960 Pro
Display(s) Acer CB281HK
Audio Device(s) ASUS Xonar DX
Software Debian Buster
#11
No camera.

You need thicker gauge wire to prevent burning or melting, the min I run even for a 200 watt amp is 8ga from the battery to the amp. This really has bad idea written all over it in terms of safety.
Mine works fine with normal Molex wire (and whatever gauge is on the amp). I haven't done any real tests with it yet though (I live in an apartment complex, and I DON'T want to wake the neighbors). It's probably a good idea, but the only way to get the full benefits from doing that is to replace the wire inside the PSU, which is NOT a good idea.

this would be a fun mod to do, making a case with a quality amp , head unit, separates with sub. (maybe even throw in a headphone amp)

Be careful when using a car amp and a comp PS, very few comp PSs are able to supply as much current as a good amp needs. So make sure to do your homework (my car amp can use up to 100A) So its important to know how many amps your stereo amp pulls (dont pay as much attention to the amount of advertised watts as on most car stereo amps thats misleading)

and most likely you will need to run several yellow wires(grounds too) off your PS together to supply the current.
Same as above. I've rigged this with an indie-PSU for a friend and the PSU in my PC for me (I don't have PSUs laying around like he does). Mine hasn't ever gotten really loud, so unless you're throwing a party or so, it should be fine.

I did, however, plug an old kitchen-counter style radio into his, and saw how loud it could go. I was pleasantly surprised, it started fluttering before it the radio maxed out. No fires, no sparks, it might have gotten warm though (I used liquid tape on his, and that stuff never seals right the first time, so I wasn't in a hurry to go check it out - and yes he did retape it after I was done and left).

Also, the comment about the "crappy-ass Durabrand PC speakers that snap, crackle, AND pop" at the top was my reason for doing the whole thing in the first place - and believe me, it was very well justified. They sounded like a 50 year old record player, and only got worse when I moved the mouse (or did anything else, for that matter).
 

cdawall

where the hell are my stars
Joined
Jul 23, 2006
Messages
27,212 (6.21/day)
Likes
8,072
Location
Houston
System Name Team Blue
Processor 5960X@4.8 1.42v
Motherboard Asus X99M-WS
Cooling EK Supremecy EVO, MCR220-Stack+MCR220+MCR320, D5-PWM+EK X-RES 140
Memory 4x8GB G.Skill Trident Z 3200 CL16
Video Card(s) (2) EVGA SC BLACK 1080Ti's+ EVGA reference 1080Ti soon to be under water+AMD VEGA FE
Storage Samsung SM951 512GB, Samsung PM961 512GB
Display(s) Dell UP2414Q 3840X2160@60hz
Case Caselabs Mercury S5
Audio Device(s) Fischer HA-02->Fischer FA-002W High edition/FA-003/Jubilate/FA-011 depending on my mood
Power Supply Seasonic Prime 1200w
Mouse Thermaltake Theron
Keyboard Thermaltake Poseidon ZX
Software W10P
Benchmark Scores Zoom zoom mofo
#12
Selway89 has a much more sound attack plan. The way the OP explains it he has one 14ga (if that) wire supplying power to the amp- bad idea.

My A/B Fosgate is strong but is the poster child of inefficiency, if I pushed my stereo often in my car it would be replaced my a class D in a heartbeat (powers my Premier sub only) /OT
i have my fosgates powering a alpine type E 10" each in a slot port box i have peaked both the subs but not the amps hehe. great amps IMO who needs class D's these hit harder than any other similar class D setup i have heard
 

theonedub

habe fidem
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
7,943 (2.36/day)
Likes
5,173
Location
Northern CA, USA
System Name Erakith || Asus UX305FA
Processor Xeon E5 2683v3 (14C/28T) @ 2.5ghz 0.829v || Intel Core M 5Y10 @ 800mhz
Motherboard ASUS X99 Deluxe || ASUS OE
Cooling EK Supremacy, D5 w/ EK Top, 2X EK-CoolStream XTX 360 & Photon 270 Res || !PASSIVE!
Memory 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 3000|| 8GB LPDDR3 1600
Video Card(s) EVGA 780Ti Classified HydroCopper || Intel HD Graphics 5300
Storage 256gb Corsair Performance Pro, 2TB Caviar Green, 2TB Samsung F4 || Toshiba 256GB SSD
Display(s) DELL Ultrasharp U2715H 27" || 13.3" 1080P IPS
Case CaseLabs Merlin SM8 || Aluminum Unibody
Power Supply NZXT Hale-90-1000-M
Mouse Logitech M705 Marathon
Keyboard Corsair Strafe RGB w/ Cherry MX Silent
Software Windows 10 Pro x64 || WIndows 10 Home x64
Benchmark Scores WCG & F@H Only
#13
little more OT :D

Fosgate amps are indeed very nice. I had bought a Hifonics 1206D that I used for a short time, but was more satisfied with my P5002. My situation is reversed though, I have mine powering a Premier TS-W3002SPL slot ported to ~36hz- peaked the amp not the sub.
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Messages
2,549 (0.61/day)
Likes
345
Location
Illinois
Processor i7 2600k@4.6ghz
Motherboard MSI z68ma-ed55
Cooling Silentx Extreem 120mm
Memory 2x4gb XMS 7-8-7-20 1600
Video Card(s) HD6870
Storage 2x128gb Kingston Hyper-X (Raid0), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1)
Display(s) Soyo 24", Gateway 22"
Case Fractal Design Arc Mini 6x120mm fans.
Audio Device(s) Onboard
Power Supply Zalman 750w
Software Windows 7
#14
Will this help? Note the green ps-on terminal for both 20 and 24pin ATX connectors. Green wire on either.

As far as the math. If a 12v rail can supply 20a then 12*20=240w. Amplifiers are about 65%(Class-AB) to 90%(Class-D) efficient.

Derated Class-AB 240w*65%=156watts/2ch=78w per channel
-or-
Derated Class-D 240w*90%=216watts/2ch=108w per channel.


 

Attachments

Last edited:
Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Messages
1,742 (0.57/day)
Likes
454
System Name Eldritch
Processor AMD Ryzen 5 1500X
Motherboard MSI B350 PC Mate
Cooling Satan's butthole after going to Taco Bell
Memory 16 GB G.Skill FlareX
Video Card(s) Gigabyte GT 1060 6GB
Storage 4*4TB Western Digital Blues in RAID 5, 512 GB Samsung 960 Pro
Display(s) Acer CB281HK
Audio Device(s) ASUS Xonar DX
Software Debian Buster
#15
Yeah, that's really good. Thanks!
 

theonedub

habe fidem
Joined
Apr 30, 2009
Messages
7,943 (2.36/day)
Likes
5,173
Location
Northern CA, USA
System Name Erakith || Asus UX305FA
Processor Xeon E5 2683v3 (14C/28T) @ 2.5ghz 0.829v || Intel Core M 5Y10 @ 800mhz
Motherboard ASUS X99 Deluxe || ASUS OE
Cooling EK Supremacy, D5 w/ EK Top, 2X EK-CoolStream XTX 360 & Photon 270 Res || !PASSIVE!
Memory 16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 3000|| 8GB LPDDR3 1600
Video Card(s) EVGA 780Ti Classified HydroCopper || Intel HD Graphics 5300
Storage 256gb Corsair Performance Pro, 2TB Caviar Green, 2TB Samsung F4 || Toshiba 256GB SSD
Display(s) DELL Ultrasharp U2715H 27" || 13.3" 1080P IPS
Case CaseLabs Merlin SM8 || Aluminum Unibody
Power Supply NZXT Hale-90-1000-M
Mouse Logitech M705 Marathon
Keyboard Corsair Strafe RGB w/ Cherry MX Silent
Software Windows 10 Pro x64 || WIndows 10 Home x64
Benchmark Scores WCG & F@H Only
#16
Will this help? Note the green ps-on terminal for both 20 and 24pin ATX connectors. Green wire on either.

As far as the math. If a 12v rail can supply 20a then 12*20=240w. Amplifiers are about 65%(Class-AB) to 90%(Class-D) efficient.

Derated Class-AB 240w*65%=156watts/2ch=78w per channel
-or-
Derated Class-D 240w*90%=216watts/2ch=108w per channel.


http://forums.techpowerup.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33747&stc=1&d=1267165016
http://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector_atx_pinout.GIF
I hate to bump this, but it is relevant. That's not how efficiency works for a car amplifier. If you have an amp rated for 240w that has an efficiency of 50% its going to draw 480w to produce the 240w and waste the other 240w in heat. Its just like efficiency in a computer PSU- a 700w PSU that is 80% efficient will supply the 700w, but it will consume over 700w in order to do so. The rest is thrown away in heat.

It changes your numbers around by a substantial margin.
 
Joined
Dec 7, 2009
Messages
1,793 (0.57/day)
Likes
276
System Name Old Skool
Processor E6750 @ 3.6 ghz
Motherboard GA P35 DS3L
Cooling Xigmatek Dark Knight S1283v
Memory 4gb Kingston DDR2 @ 900mhz
Video Card(s) XFX 9800GT 512MB
Storage SAMSUNG 320gb
Display(s) VIEWSONIC vx2260wm
Case HAF 922
Audio Device(s) Realtek (on board) + Logitech x540
Power Supply CM 550w
Software W7 Ultimate 64
#17
Ah so you posted it here! rofl! I commented bout that in another thread earlier. Thats cool man, I might give it a run this week end. I have a couple of car stuff lying around.
 
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
2,261 (0.67/day)
Likes
171
Location
the uk that's all you need to know ;)
System Name not very good (wants throwing out window most of time)
Processor xp3000@ 2.17ghz pile of sh** /i7 920 DO on air for now
Motherboard msi kt6 delta oap /gigabyte x58 ud7 (rev1.0)
Cooling 1 green akasa 8cm(rear) 1 multicoloured akasa(hd) 1 12 cm (intake) 1 9cm with circuit from old psu
Memory 1.25 gb kingston hyperx @333mhz/ 3gb corsair dominator xmp 1600mhz
Video Card(s) (agp) hd3850 not bad not really suitable for mobo n processor/ gb hd5870
Storage wd 320gb + samsung 320 gig + wd 1tb 6gb/s
Display(s) compaq mv720
Case thermaltake XaserIII skull / coolermaster cm 690II
Audio Device(s) onboard
Power Supply corsair hx 650 w which solved many problems (blew up) /850w corsair
Software xp pro sp3/ ? win 7 ultimate (32 bit)
Benchmark Scores 6543 3d mark05 ye ye not good but look at the processor /uknown as still not benched
#18
ha ha i did this years ago when someone bought a car tape player around, so i wired it up to my snes and had it in my shed /workshop/room ahh the joys of not having anyone near enough to moan about the noise :D

@Lazzer408 where's the diode on that relay man :wtf::shadedshu

also another consideration is that unless you have an ultra stable psu your likely to have the the psu cut out because of big variations in the amount of current drawn :p
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Messages
2,549 (0.61/day)
Likes
345
Location
Illinois
Processor i7 2600k@4.6ghz
Motherboard MSI z68ma-ed55
Cooling Silentx Extreem 120mm
Memory 2x4gb XMS 7-8-7-20 1600
Video Card(s) HD6870
Storage 2x128gb Kingston Hyper-X (Raid0), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1)
Display(s) Soyo 24", Gateway 22"
Case Fractal Design Arc Mini 6x120mm fans.
Audio Device(s) Onboard
Power Supply Zalman 750w
Software Windows 7
#19
ha ha i did this years ago when someone bought a car tape player around, so i wired it up to my snes and had it in my shed /workshop/room ahh the joys of not having anyone near enough to moan about the noise :D

@Lazzer408 where's the diode on that relay man :wtf::shadedshu

also another consideration is that unless you have an ultra stable psu your likely to have the the psu cut out because of big variations in the amount of current drawn :p
It's in the other schematic I posted weeks ago when the last guy asked how to do this. :D
 
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
2,261 (0.67/day)
Likes
171
Location
the uk that's all you need to know ;)
System Name not very good (wants throwing out window most of time)
Processor xp3000@ 2.17ghz pile of sh** /i7 920 DO on air for now
Motherboard msi kt6 delta oap /gigabyte x58 ud7 (rev1.0)
Cooling 1 green akasa 8cm(rear) 1 multicoloured akasa(hd) 1 12 cm (intake) 1 9cm with circuit from old psu
Memory 1.25 gb kingston hyperx @333mhz/ 3gb corsair dominator xmp 1600mhz
Video Card(s) (agp) hd3850 not bad not really suitable for mobo n processor/ gb hd5870
Storage wd 320gb + samsung 320 gig + wd 1tb 6gb/s
Display(s) compaq mv720
Case thermaltake XaserIII skull / coolermaster cm 690II
Audio Device(s) onboard
Power Supply corsair hx 650 w which solved many problems (blew up) /850w corsair
Software xp pro sp3/ ? win 7 ultimate (32 bit)
Benchmark Scores 6543 3d mark05 ye ye not good but look at the processor /uknown as still not benched
#20
just pullin your leg :laugh::D
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Messages
2,549 (0.61/day)
Likes
345
Location
Illinois
Processor i7 2600k@4.6ghz
Motherboard MSI z68ma-ed55
Cooling Silentx Extreem 120mm
Memory 2x4gb XMS 7-8-7-20 1600
Video Card(s) HD6870
Storage 2x128gb Kingston Hyper-X (Raid0), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1)
Display(s) Soyo 24", Gateway 22"
Case Fractal Design Arc Mini 6x120mm fans.
Audio Device(s) Onboard
Power Supply Zalman 750w
Software Windows 7
#21
Joined
Jan 23, 2010
Messages
358 (0.12/day)
Likes
57
Location
Cooloongup, Western Australia
System Name GET FUCKED
Processor GET FUCKED
Motherboard GET FUCKED
Cooling GET FUCKED
Memory GET FUCKED
Video Card(s) GET FUCKED
Storage GET FUCKED
Display(s) GET FUCKED
Case GET FUCKED
Audio Device(s) GET FUCKED
Power Supply GET FUCKED
Software GET FUCKED
Benchmark Scores GET FUCKED
#22
Lol, I've done this before, completely impractical though. Had an old Dell server board with dual independent 750Watt PSU's connected to it, with a lot of Amperage and it still distorted more than when I simply had a car battery hooked up to it. Dangerous, need thick cabling, and a lot of power, DO NOT put car battery in your room if you were thinking about it either, as the amount of amperage in them is enough to weld a spanner across the terminals. The only safe way to do this I found is to get an expensive adjustable DC power supply with at least 120+ Amps of power, or buy proper home theater gear, that isn't designed in any means for weather durability, just quality with the higher end stuff. PSU's are simply NOT designed to supply enormous amounts of current draw on and off all the time, that any decent car amplifier will require.
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Messages
2,549 (0.61/day)
Likes
345
Location
Illinois
Processor i7 2600k@4.6ghz
Motherboard MSI z68ma-ed55
Cooling Silentx Extreem 120mm
Memory 2x4gb XMS 7-8-7-20 1600
Video Card(s) HD6870
Storage 2x128gb Kingston Hyper-X (Raid0), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1)
Display(s) Soyo 24", Gateway 22"
Case Fractal Design Arc Mini 6x120mm fans.
Audio Device(s) Onboard
Power Supply Zalman 750w
Software Windows 7
#23
Post #14 I explained that.
 
Joined
Jan 6, 2007
Messages
2,549 (0.61/day)
Likes
345
Location
Illinois
Processor i7 2600k@4.6ghz
Motherboard MSI z68ma-ed55
Cooling Silentx Extreem 120mm
Memory 2x4gb XMS 7-8-7-20 1600
Video Card(s) HD6870
Storage 2x128gb Kingston Hyper-X (Raid0), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1), 2x750gb RE3 (RAID1)
Display(s) Soyo 24", Gateway 22"
Case Fractal Design Arc Mini 6x120mm fans.
Audio Device(s) Onboard
Power Supply Zalman 750w
Software Windows 7
#24
I hate to bump this, but it is relevant. That's not how efficiency works for a car amplifier. If you have an amp rated for 240w that has an efficiency of 50% its going to draw 480w to produce the 240w and waste the other 240w in heat. Its just like efficiency in a computer PSU- a 700w PSU that is 80% efficient will supply the 700w, but it will consume over 700w in order to do so. The rest is thrown away in heat.

It changes your numbers around by a substantial margin.
Read it again. You basically just repeated what I said but I based my amps 'rating' off available power and when the efficiency of the amp is taken into consideration that power becomes alot less.
 

LDorn920

New Member
Joined
May 17, 2010
Messages
2 (0.00/day)
Likes
0
#25
Do you have a car amp laying around? Are your gaming experiences too.... quiet? Do you have crappy-ass Durabrand PC speakers that snap, crackle, AND pop? Do you get the itch to wake up your neighbors?

If you answered yes to any 2 of these questions, this guide may be for you!

Ok, enough of the cheesy advertising. I've had this one done for a while, so I can guarantee if you do it right (and every part works), that it should all be fine and dandy.

Things you'll need:

1 x Car Amp
2 x Box Speakers
1 x Minijack-to-RCA cable
Some x Various other wires and cables
Various x Tools
A x PC

Knowledge You'll need:
A 200 watt car amp DOES NOT pull 200 watts (that would mean my entire PC is running off 50 watts) - I'm not sure what it does pull though, so don't ask.

A car battery gives 12 volts, so does your PSU.

If your doing this with an independent PSU (AKA, not the one in your PC), you'll need to connect wires 15 & 16 (green and the black right next to it) to get your PSU to turn on. I'd also recommend getting one with a rocker switch in the back, so you don't have to rig one in between 15 & 16.

If your amp uses more than around 500 watts you'll want to use multiple molex connectors, because a single 14-gauge wire might not be able to hold all the charge needed for the entire amp, causing it to heat up and possibly melt. There is a method to the madness; if you unplug all your drives and your video card, you should be able trace all the wires back to 2 or 3 bunches (unless you have a modular PSU, in which I'm not sure how this would work), you'll want to connect the amp to as many bunches as you can. This way you're effectively dividing the charge on each wire (and sometimes making it easier on your PSU), if it works correctly. If you do two (or more) connectors on a particular bunch, your not gaining much because the charge will still have to go through the single wires that come out of the PSU, which is what you're trying to avoid in the first place.

Step 1: Prep your PC
Turn down the volume on the taskbar, and I mean DOWN to like 2-10%. Remove your side panel (unless your using an independent PSU)

Step 2: Wiring up The Amp
Connect the red wire (Positive) to the orange wire (Remote). Make sure that there's just bare wire at the end of all of the wires coming from your amp.

Grab a Molex connector, you want the male end. Cut the Yellow (+12v DC) and the Black (-12v DC) right next to it, you'll want them as long as you can get (you can also remove the red and black if you want, but when I did it the Yellow and Black got a little shaky/loose).

Connect the Molex's Yellow to The Amp's Red & Orange, connect the Molex's Black to the Amp's Black. Twist, tie, tape.

Step 3: Connecting the Amp and Speakers
You want box speakers (the ones that just have the - and + wires hanging out the back), if you don't have any you could try Goodwill (you can usually get them for like $20 over there). Connect them to The Amp. I'm not sure whether the - on the speakers really needs to be connected to the - on The Amp, but do it just to be safe (my speakers just have 2 nondescript wires, and they work fine). You may need to make them longer too.

Step 4: Connecting it to your PC
Plug the male Molex into your PSU, grab the minijack-to-RCA and plug the minijack into your sound card with the RCA connected to The Amp. If you have an amp that has more than 2 channels, you may need to move the speakers and RCA cables around to get the right ones.

Step 5: Fine tuning
Make sure all the wires are insulated good. Check them again. The last thing you want is your house up in flames, so check them once more.

If your using an independent PSU, make sure it's plugged in.

Turn on your PC. Adjust volume as needed (I did this with a 200 watt amp, and mines at 4% volume).

Step 6: Make sure it's all up to par
Play a game, more specifically, a really power-hungry one *cough* Bioshock 2 *cough*. Make sure your PSU is fine and running good.

Other remarks:
You could also hook up a car radio to your PC if you'd like, but I haven't done it yet so I don't have a guide.

If your case is a tank (really heavy-like) you could rig up The Amp to your right-side panel, but mine's a lightweight, so again, no guide.

If your using an independant PSU, you might want to remove unnecessary wires. I cannot recommend this as your PSU could deep-fry your pasty-white nerdy ass any day of the week. PSU vs. You = Dead You (and possibly cops). I have done this though (rigging it up for a friend ;)), so I won't say it's impossible.

YOU MAY NEED TO ADJUST YOUR BASE. It'll probably be overwhelming. Try adjusting the gain on The Amp first, then adjust the equalizer in your drivers/programs next.

IF YOUR AMP NEEDS A CAPACITOR don't ask me, I don't know what to do with it or how to rig it or charge it or do anything with it. Mine doesn't need one, so no guide.
Hello!:) What about Just having the amp Hooked to a Car(or Large MotorCycle)Battery, but have the Mini-Plug from the PC to the amp! That would sove the Power consumtion Problem, with out putting a strain on your PC!
This is a Very Good Idea! Minds Are at Work out there! Thanks for the tips!
 
Top