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How to remove top panel

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Hey. Trying to remove the top panel of my PC. Neither Philips nor flathead screwdrivers fit, and the smallest hex key I have is too small and the second smallest is too big. What do I use?? (Case is the Corsair Carbide Spec-05 Mid-Tower)
 
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If instructions aren't in the owner's manual mostly likely Corsair didn't design the case for the top to be removed. You could contact their customer support desk for additional clarification.

Looking at my various cases, only one has a top panel that's designed to be removed and the removable part is only three-quarters of the top. Unsurprisingly the manufacturer included specific instructions in the owner's manual how to do it.

We don't know how the top is fastened to the rest of your chassis and you didn't bother to post any photographs so it's really up to you to figure out. With so many cases on the market, it's not like most people here have any familiarity with that particular product. Looking at marketing photos on their corporate website isn't going to give any guidance.

Anyhow, best of luck.
 
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Yeah... that doesnt come off

1663983095500.png



are you trying to remove pop rivets with an allen key?

These are not screws, or removable.
1663983139456.png
 
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Use a drill they're not screws
 

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Use a drill they're not screws

Yeah if he were to do that he be better to take the front off 1st as it might be hooked up on it too.

As some one else said contact Corsair.
 
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Not sure why you're doing this but use a drill. If you want to put it back you'll need screws and nuts.
 

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Yes, those are called rivets.

To remove, simply a drill and bit with a diameter that's 3/32ns smaller and they'll come right out.

Then call gramps and ask if you can borrow his rivet gun. Or ask pops, an uncle or local car repair shop guy might help you reassemble. The process would take just a few minutes.

Reputable source of information.

 

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Or you buy a plug tap (or whatever they're called) and use screws in the future. Or just force the screw in.
 
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Unless you are doing some very odd and unique custom modifications to the case, I don't understand why you would "need" to remove the top. You "should" be able to do everything you need to do from the side after removing the left-side (as viewed from the front) removable side panel. Some cases have removable right-side panels too - but many are also riveted. The user guide for your case suggests both sides are removable. This "should" allow decent access for mounting devices, routing cables, or the thorough cleaning out of heat trapping dust.

I STONGELY CAUTION you about drilling out the rivets. If you go this route, remove everything from inside the case first. You do NOT want to risk even a single, tiny metal filing created while drilling from falling onto your motherboard, into a connector, into the power supply - or anywhere else voltage may appear. The same warning applies if you use self-tapping screws (instead of nuts and bolts) to re-secure the top again.

So, after any drilling or cutting of sheet metal, make 300% sure (as in triple check), no metal filings remain before you remount all your components.
 
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I STONGELY CAUTION you about drilling out the rivets. If you go this route, remove everything from inside the case first. You do NOT want to risk even a single, tiny metal filing created while drilling from falling onto your motherboard, into a connector, into the power supply - or anywhere else voltage may appear. The same warning applies if you use self-tapping screws (instead of nuts and bolts) to re-secure the top again.

So, after any drilling or cutting of sheet metal, make 300% sure (as in triple check), no metal filings remain before you remount all your components
^^ THIS ^^

My nephew made this mistake when doing some dremel work on his pc case, and although he removed all components first, he failed to check well enough for metal filings before reassembling everything.... even after I reminded him very strongly multiple times...

His mod turned out great, but powering up the machine was, shall we say, "an illuminating experience" :D

Come to find out that a
SINGLE, TINY filing was hiding along the back edge of the rolled steel edge that forms the enclosure, and when putting everything back in, he jostled it loose and it fell thru his psu fan grill and landed across the circuit board where it made contact with 2 solder points.... when we tore the psu apart, we could see the burn marks where it had shorted out and blew sparks across from one point to the other and melted itself right there...

A painful AND expensive lesson for sure, as the incident also fried all his brand new parts too, including his ADL i9 CPU @$600, 3090 GPU @$1k, 360mm AIO cooler @180, and the front I/O panel.... the only thing that somehow survived unharmed were his case & cooler fans, and the 4-port USB hub, which is what he made the mod for...

"Live & learn" was all I could say to him afterwards :)
 
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As someone else said contact Corsair.
Why would they need to contact Corsair? If they wish to mod their case then I don't see what Corsair has to do with it
but a has been said make sure to remove all hardware from within the case first and then check bloody well before reassembly

most pop rivets can be drilled out and replaced with the appropriately sized screw easily enough
 

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Why would they need to contact Corsair? If they wish to mod their case then I don't see what Corsair has to do with it
but a has been said make sure to remove all hardware from within the case first and then check bloody well before reassembly

most pop rivets can be drilled out and replaced with the appropriately sized screw easily enough

True, but not having the case my self thought it might be a good idea just to ask and see what they say, for all i know that front panel might be fixed in some way that when you try to take the top off it messes up the front panel and might even require the front to be taken off 1st as there might be more rivets behind the front panel.

Chances are they are both separate but would require the front panel to be removed as it's most likely just 4 rivets holding it on.
 
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True, but not having the case my self thought it might be a good idea just to ask and see what they say, for all i know that front panel might be fixed in some way that when you try to take the top off it messes up the front panel and might even require the front to be taken off 1st as there might be more rivets behind the front panel.

Chances are they are both separate but would require the front panel to be removed as it's most likely just 4 rivets holding it on.
Sure. Top panel is riveted on the left, right and back sides, so probably at the front too. It's simple enough to remove the front panel, Corsair itself is helpful, and there's a (rough) video.

A couple more thoughts. Rivets are made of soft aluminium and easy to drill through. When drilling, apply firm pressure and very low rpm, or turn the drill chuck by hand. With some luck, the head of the rivet will fall off in one piece or a couple pieces instead of thousands of filings.

Replacing rivets with self-tapping screws seems a bad idea to me, the sheet metal is thin and the screw would wear out its own thread easily, so you'd only be able to fasten it lightly. There are other solutions, just do a Google image search for "captive nut" to get an idea. But I agree that using nuts and bolts is the best option - as long as you can reach all the spaces where you need to put the nuts with your hand or a wrench.

I noticed that Brits and Americans have very different vocabularies for mechanical parts and tools, I'm trying to keep to Queen's English, with little success, I guess.
 
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Replacing rivets with self-tapping screws seems a bad idea to me
It is a bad idea. I sure was not suggesting it be done. I only mentioned them because I have seen them used before. :( In fact, many case fans have been mounted using self-tapping screws.

I also note that most cases are made of steel and plastic, not aluminum. Aluminum is more expensive than steel which is why aluminum cases tend to cost much more than the equivalent steel cases. While aircraft grade aluminum (as often found in auto body panels and decent bicycles) can be very strong, nearly as strong as steel, it is much more expensive than steel.

the sheet metal is thin and the screw would wear out its own thread easily
Huh? Ummm, sorry but no! Not even. Of course, I was assuming the use of the correct screw for the job, properly driven in.

I have to assume you are not aware that there are such things as self-tapping screws specifically designed for sheet metal. In fact, they are called, Self-Tapping Sheet Metal Screws.

And while sheet metal, by definition, is thin (as a sheet), an undamaged, self-tapping "sheet metal screw", properly inserted will stay tight and secure in place. There is no way, once properly inserted, it could "wear out".

The point was, and still is that self-tapping screws work by cutting threads (tapping) into the metal when driven in. If done properly (correct screw, correct initial screw hole, and no overtightening), they work great for the purpose of creating a permanent mechanical (vs welding, for example) bond of two sheet metal surfaces. HOWEVER, the tapping process inevitably involves the removal of some metal filings, the "waste" products, being cut out of the thread grooves.

And the point was, you don't want those metal filings, even one very tiny metal filing, falling on to or in to your electronics.
 
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