HX100W wiring...

[Basard]

I've got the HX100W. I got it second-hand and It came with two SATA one molex, and some PCI-E cables. One of the SATA cables and the one molex cable are not for this power supply--they just shut my system down immediately after power-on. After much confusion (years ago) I discovered that the pins that connect to the modular ports are in a different configuration that the one working SATA cable that I have for this PSU.

I'm going to buy an extractor tool and move the pins around, but after almost an hour of searching, I can't find a wiring diagram for the pin-outs of the modular connections on the PSU.

Anybody know of a good resource to find such a thing?

 

[FreedomEclipse]

Your best bet is to hit up the corsair forums - maybe one of the staff there can give you a pin diagram.

If not - just buy new cables using this chart. I did the same when i was looking for sleeved PCI-Ex cables though corsair ones are quite pricey

 

[Basard]

Thanks man, I can make my bad SATA cable work, just bu looking at the one good one that I have hooked up, just wanna make my good molex work--I don't have a reference for that one.

Weird, the link you gave me seemed to be in spanish.... So I opened up a new tab, typed "corsair.com" and went to their forums link and it's still in half spanish.......... FML..... lol. This entire day has been nothing but problems....

 

[HUSKIE]

I have spare all cables for this psu, psu has been knackered. i don't use it anymore.

 

[silentbogo]

The easiest way is force-start the PSU and check pinouts with multimeter. Did that on 2 of my old modular PSUs.
The only thing you need to be weary about is that if you bought a cheap pin extractor, it may be very fragile. Don't force it in, try to wiggle it in...
You are lucky that you have a semi-modular PSU. I think the most painful part of restoring my 950W PSU was making a 24-pin cable from scraps...

 

[Basard]

The easiest way is force-start the PSU and check pinouts with multimeter. Did that on 2 of my old modular PSUs.
The only thing you need to be weary about is that if you bought a cheap pin extractor, it may be very fragile. Don't force it in, try to wiggle it in...
You are lucky that you have a semi-modular PSU. I think the most painful part of restoring my 950W PSU was making a 24-pin cable from scraps...

Yeah, I was trying last night with some sewing needles, they are all either too small, or too big... go figure.

As for the multimeter.... Sadly, I don't have one. I know, what kind of man am I, right? I did built one in high school, twenty years ago. It worked great, for about two minutes, until I tried to measure the resistance of the wall socket--boy, that was quite a show. I also am aware that they are cheap as hell. LOL.

I have spare all cables for this psu, psu has been knackered. i don't use it anymore.

I would love to buy them from you... (EDIT: Oh.... you're in the UK)

 

[silentbogo]

Yeah, I was trying last night with some sewing needles, they are all either too small, or too big... go figure.

Those won't work. There are cheap chinese extractors, but they are so soft and fragile that they last for approximately one PSU fix or less. Good enough if you wanna fix something quickly and forget about it. Wasted lots of time and punctured fingertips with those until I finally decided to spend $20-something on a decent rewiring kit.
The easiest way is to get some spares/replacements on eBay. Or ask around the forum. Sometimes people have spare SATA/IDE cables from this series that are just sitting somewhere in a dark closet.

 

[Basard]

Ah, okay. Thanks man.

Well, I got my extractor tools now:

They work suprisingly well. The side of a hammer was my anvil and a pliers was my hammer. Made from a paper clip.

I also got a cheap multimeter to test out the pins on the PSU. Seems they are proprietary, so it's a huge secret that the world will never know. Though there are lots of pin out diagrams for tons of other PSUs, just not mine. I'd make a drawing, but I don't think anybody cares about it anymore--it's getting pretty old now.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I can't find a wiring diagram for the pin-outs of the modular connections on the PSU.

This is one of major downsides for modular PSUs in general. The ATX Form Factor standard does not stipulate the connector type or pinout for the PSU connectors, or the connectors on the PSU side of the cables. The component ends of the cables are standard, of course. But not the PSU side. This means you cannot mix and match cables from different modular PSUs. In some cases, you can't even mix and match cables from different PSUs from the same manufacturer! From a business logistics standpoint, that just makes no sense to me. I assume it is because PSU makers use different OEMs throughout their product lines.

This no industry standard issue also means if you have 6 computers at your location, all with different modular PSUs, you must label, keep and store the extra cables separately - forever! What a pain! What I have seen some users do is stuff the unused cables in a bag and toss the bag into the bottom of the computer case. Kind of defeats the aesthetics aspect for using a modular PSU in the first place.

As a formally trained electronics technician, I cringe when I hear about some folks with no training sticking meter probes in electronics - especially power supplies. Remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill! But in this case, I agree with the suggestion to use a meter (or tester) as long as you stay out of the inside of the PSU where the deadly voltages exist.

You do NOT need to power up the PSU to map out the pins. All you need is an inexpensive continuity tester to determine which cable pin connects to which PSU pin. A "short" (0 Ohms) indicates a connection (continuity). An open means no connection. You might need to use a straightened out paperclip with the alligator clip.

Should you get a multimeter, get a good one. You don't have to spend a fortune. I recommend the Mastech MS8268 for the best value for the money. The auto-sensing feature is great for the less experienced. Just use the Ohm setting. Like most better meters, checking continuity is easy as a simple tone sounds when a short is detected, and silence with an open. So you don't even need to look at the meter to test and map those cables.

 

[MIRTAZAPINE]

I agree just need a mulitmeter to check for continuenity for the modular cable and see which ends where. Don't need to power up.

Sticking meter probe into live wiring is dangerous. I was dumb enough to test the voltage of the wiring of a home oven holding both ends. Was wondering my meter was not reading until I turn to ac mode. It is 240V AC! I thought it was just an led low volt wiring but it is a lamp wiring. If it was not for a thick oven glove I wore I would get shock by 240V AC.

Use a test pen if unsure for unknown circuit. If it lights up its probably highly live.

 

[Basard]

@Bill_Bright I just got the $5 one from Harbor freight (multimeter). I've used them before, and exploded one, so I'm pretty sure what not to do with it. There are 5v, 3v, and 12v powers coming form the sata/molex ports, I'm assuming. That's why the outputs on the PSU have 6 pins, so you can put molex or sata cables in a single output on the PSU. I do have one known good sata power cable hooked into my PSU right now, and a TON of potential cables from other PSUs. Just need to hold the black meter lead to a ground and probe away to find out which is which.

Now that I am pondering it, It seems like I can just study my good sata cable and learn which output is which on my PSU.... DUH!

@MIRTAZAPINE I was dumb enough to set a meter to measure ohms and stick it into a 120V wall socket when I was a kid in electronics class. See post #6. Pillars of smoke shot out the socket a good 3 feet. I think I wanna do it again with this cheap multimeter I got, just for shits n grins... I'll try to restrain myself though.

 

[Bill_Bright]

There are 5v, 3v, and 12v powers coming form the sata/molex ports

And "grounds".

As far as blowing up meters, that's another reason to get a good meter instead of something cheap. The better meters are autosensing and have robust protection features. So if you have your polarity wrong, or the setting on the meter wrong, it will either automatically sort it out for you, or just not read anything - without producing smoke.

 

[Basard]

My dad was an electrician, I messed around with his Fluke a few times, the quality was definitely there. I saw a cheapo Fluke on Amazon for 40 bucks..... But I'm not an electrician, I did take three years of electronics and was -sort of- an electrician in the Navy. I just don't have much of a need for a decent one right now, haven't for 15+ years. The cheap one will do me good for this--if I even use it--and I can pull it out on the 4th of July next year!!

@FreedomEclipse That link in post #2 tells me I have the original HX series and nothing is compatible.... lol.

 

[Bill_Bright]

$40 for a Fluke may be considered cheap compared to other Flukes, but I am sure it would be a pretty decent meter for the occasional home user. When I was referring to cheap, I meant something like this.
PS: Thanks for your service!

 

[kapone32]

You may be able to find replacement cables on Amazon.

You may be able to find replacement cables on Amazon.

Corsair CP-8920202 SF Series Premium PSU Cable Kit Individually Sleeved Black Power Supply : Amazon.ca: Electronics

Corsair CP-8920202 SF Series Premium PSU Cable Kit Individually Sleeved Black Power Supply : Amazon.ca: Electronics

www.amazon.ca

 

[Basard]

@Bill_Bright the one I picked up was five bucks.

@kapone32 I appreciate it, but I've got so many spare cables around from other PSUs, it would be wasteful to no rearrange the pins to fit my current PSU.....

 

[FreedomEclipse]

Ask on the corsair forums then. Or maybe check out the Corsair shop for spare parts

 

[Bill_Bright]

@Bill_Bright the one I picked up was five bucks.

Well, it is probably fine to look for shorts and opens in a circuit where no voltages are present. I would not trust it to accurately measure DC voltages. And for sure, make sure you have the settings set correctly and the probe polarity right before touching any contacts. I personally would not trust it - in terms of personal safety - for measuring mains/wall outlet AC voltages, or inside electronics were high-voltage AC exists. It is probably fine to check your car battery, however.